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Digital Photographers United
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First post! Yay...
Good idea creating a photography group,
Just for reference, I'm a Four Thirds system user, specifically using Olympus gear. Currently shooting with an E-410, soon will be moving up to an E-520.
Currently shooting with a D70 Nikon
Canon PowerShot S2 IS. Will get the EOS 30D or something like it when I have the money.
I carry around Canon EOS 300D (Digital Rebel), Canon EOS 3000 (Film), Canon AE-1 (Film) and couple of lenses of very varying quality...
and I were discussing IR photography in his thread in the fan fiction forum. From what I understand, all digital cameras can "see" infrared light, but in order for pictures to come out the way we expect there are filters to prevent IR from reaching the main sensor. IR photography involves removing that block, somehow. If you're a fan of monotone pictures, IR photography is (to me) the next level up. Many come out in monotone, but there's a very ethereal feel to them - leaves are semi-transparent, for example, and there are colors but they're extremely faded. I think it's really neat and depending on what's involved, I'd like to try it or I'll find a really cheap DSLR on eBay and try to hack it myself. Anyone have any experience with it?
I presently use one of two incarnations of Canon Digital Rebel, depending on whether I'm borrowing from work or using the ministry's camera when on the mission field. (It's hard to justify buying one for myself when I have reasonably nice cameras available to me.)
Aside from simple understanding of composition/framing, I am very unfortunately ignorant on even most of the basics of photography, and it shows. Until I've made more progress on rectifying that problem, I don't expect to post much here for a good while. In the meantime, I will admire and listen in hopes of learning.
, Seems you're in bit of a luck. E-410 seems actually somewhat capable of IR photography unmodified with long exposure times. Sensitivity range apparently goes a bit to IR-range according to a photographer friend of mine. Though the spectral sensitivity curve is somewhat contradicting to that statement.
According to that the maximum wavelength is about 680nm. If that's the actual response my EOS 300D seems to be equally hopeless case. Spectral sensitivity goes to about 680nm as well so judging by that it seems pretty much useless for IR photos unmodified but I'm going to give it a try none the less before I disembowel it.
So if it's enough can't really tell. Hoya R72 IR-filters seem to be dirt cheap so it won't be hideously expensive experiment. Just a bit concerned of it's cutoff at 720nm. Found them though for as cheap as 25€ here in Finland and I'd assume they will be quite a bit cheaper in US as other photography stuff seems to be. I'm getting a couple of different sized R72s so I'll tell you as soon as I get the filters how it turned out. I'm hunting for IR sensitive BW-films as well. Guess I'll put my AE-1 to use for once. By any chance anyone happen to know if they need to be developed somehow differently than normal BW-films? I develop BW-films myself.
A company called Astro Hutech in Torrance, CA modifies E-410 for IR photography. At least they seem to be selling modified E-410 for $500.
(I hope no one burns me for doing some advertising...)
Don't know how eager they'll be to tell how it's done but can't hurt asking.
(it seems we don't like urls here so remove the spaces)
no worries about that - DSLRs these days have so many features that unless you use them regularly, you practically need to carry around the manual to remember how to use features as well as what they do. Even if you get the features down, knowing the ins and outs of photography takes time. I joined an Olympus forum and even by just reading the posts I feel that I've learned so much. At this point I'm even able to explain new things to a friend of mine who took an intro-level class on photography! Amazing what we can learn from others. Don't be shy about posting questions, unless you're afraid of my verbose responses
I'm not sure if there's a different development technique required for IR on film cameras - it seems that you need to use special IR film, though. The Wikipedia article on IR photography makes a mention of how certain 35mm film cameras have features that will fog IR sensitivity, too. It seems that for film you can choose between B&W or color IR film types.
I'll look into whether the E-520 (or the E-510; probably similar) can do IR photography without massive modifications. If so, I'll consider picking up some of those Hoya filters. I'll head back to the Olympus boards and see what the consensus is, as at least two people there are able to do IR photography.
, A little bit of encouragement... Did the good old remote control test with my 300D. Results seen in the picture I added. So it's at least slightly sensitive to longer IR wavelengths. I may be able to do something with exposure times of about a month.
EDIT: BTW the remote test is actually quite good one. The wavelength used in remotes is approximately 900-950nm so it's well in the IR-range.
, we seem to be using quite similar equipment. Do indeed feel free to ask anything. I'm a drop out photography student, full fledged Canonist and relatively familiar with the Rebel so I'm hoping I can be of some use if something comes up.
I just love photography. All of the photos are great ^^ especially the kuburan one.
Added a couple of pictures. Some taken today, some are older (two of them MUCH older). Same ones can be found in a bit better quality in my fan creations thread.
Added pictures of Matsumoto Castle, Shirakawago and Mt Fuji, all taken with a Canon IXUS 850 IS during my holiday in Japan.
I just found a lens I had totally forgotten about. Seems I've bought a Canon FD 35mm F3.5 prime at some point. Well it's a nice piece of glass so I ain't complaining. I also ordered Hoya R72s for all my lenses. 90€ shees....
Edit: Did some shopping as well. Bought Canon EF 50mm F1.8 II.
Edit2: Man. I'm in love. The EF 50mm I bought is superb for it's price. Less than 100€ and very nice sharp draw and the 1.8 aperture isn't exactly bad either. Slow as hell but I guess the price has to appear somewhere.
A quick test shot with the 50mm. Shot in RAW with no noise reduction what so ever.
Word of warning... It's BIG. Roughly 3.5megs.
's lovely shot of Fuji, I thought I would try loading a few images... 600x600x97.7k is rather limiting, isn't it? I've enabled external links; being able to link to externally hosted images should make things a little easier.
. External links make life quite a bit easier here.
I managed to get some shots of a sunrise on my plane trip back to New York. If they came out well I'll try to get one or two on here. I found it amusing though: I had the window seat and was happily snapping away, when the guy sitting next to me woke up, pulled out a point-and-shoot, and made two or three attempts to get the sunrise as well. As we were landing he wistfully asked me if I'd gotten any good shots: all of his were badly under- or over-exposed, and nothing had come out. I remember that frustration, it's what led me to get a DSLR in the first place!
Thanks for the photo comment,
He or she was very still, if I remember correctly, so it wouldn't have been too hard on the auto-focus, if I selected the right spot mode. Though that one could have been a manual focus in reality, come to think of it; would need to dig the original out of archives to know for sure. I posted
a better resolution version
in the old
thread way-back-when with a bunch of others from the same trip. The thread might be of general interest to newer forum members frequenting this group, some quite nice work was posted.
Wow, many of the shots in your post on that thread are quite impressive. Although I spotted one where it looks like the ISO setting was a bit high, as there's a lot of noise in the picture (it's a long one with two ladies in kimonos near the bottom).
Manual focus is a bit of a pain. Maybe I need to buy a larger viewfinder, but for me I sometimes have difficulty determining whether it's really as sharp as it could be. It doesn't help that the lenses I'm currently using are "focus by wire" so I don't have a much tactile feedback for how far I've focused. Olympus' new high end lenses have a mechanical focus ring, so perhaps that'd make it easier...
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