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Digital Photographers United
Post Processing Workshop
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Post Processing Workshop
Post Processing Workshop
The idea is to share methods and ideas on post processing of the photos. You can also ask for help on the problems you may encounter, ideas on how something is done or just suggestions what to do to your photos. You can also ask for other users to work on your photos.
Tutorials are also very welcome however there are a few limitations to formatting of the messages here in Social Groups section and the 5000 character maximum post length might pose a problem as well, so linking to an outside site or posting your tutorial in your personal thread in Fan Creations (if you have one) probably are the best options.
First some advertising.
(No I'm not an Adobe employee, just simply love the software.)
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom
It's most definitely worth the investment if you're planning on really digging into what you can get out of your digital photos. You can get a 30 day trial version of it from Adobe's website. Cost of the full license is about $300.
A few key features.
Lighroom has fairly good image organizing functions, allowing you to for example search you photos based on meta-data, indexing etc.
Script based processing:
All the manipulation work done in Lightroom is script based meaning that original file is not changed. You can adjust or revert all the changes to the images at any point if you wish. This also saves quite a bit of disk space since you don't have to save multiple files in order to get the same result.
Sophisticated RAW processing:
Lightroom has one of the best generic RAW processing engines on the market, Adobe Camera Raw (Current version is 5.4). You can download the same engine to Photoshop CS4
, but you'll still be missing all of the features mentioned above. Camera Raw 5.4 is not available for older versions of Photoshop, (CS3 supports versions up to 4.6) so if you're using older versions of Photoshop you'll lose quite many very useful features, such as graduated filters and adjustment brush. Older versions also have fairly limited camera RAW file support. Adobe provides free tool for DNG conversion of RAW files,
Adobe DNG Converter 5.4
, which allows you to convert RAW files that the older versions of Camera Raw doesn't support into DNG files which you then can import to Photoshop but in terms of processing the RAW/DNG files you'll still be limited by the Camera Raw version you have in your version of Photoshop. In theory DNG Converter update should update the camera profiles in Camera Raw as well, however I haven't tried it so can't really tell whether it's so.
If you're planning on processing your photos I strongly suggest using RAW format. Thoughts on why go RAW you can read
Old Photo look (extended)
To kick things off here's the first manipulation work. No tutorial this time just files for you to look at.
Raw processing was done in Adobe Lightroom 2.4 and manipulation work in Photoshop CS3.
PSD files should be compatible with most of the recent versions of Photoshop. Original DNG file should work with at least Photoshop CS3 and CS4 and versions 2.x of Lightroom.
Processed DNG files will work only on Lightroom 2.4 and Camera Raw 5.4.
Textures and brushes used are provided as a package.
These tutorials were applied to some extent.
Old photo look
Desaturating a photo
Final image PNG:
Final image PSD:
Original RAW exported to JPEG:
Processed RAW exported to JPEG:
Original RAW converted to DNG:
Original RAW exported to PSD (16bit/channel):
Processed RAW converted to DNG:
Processed RAW exported to PSD (16bit/channel):
Brushes and textures:
False Color Processing
Since I find some time on my hands waiting for a storm front to arrive for me to photograph, here's a fairly topical work. Been experimenting on Near IR and especially false color photography fairly frantically recently since discovering that on the contrary to my first impressions and to what I've been told my EOS 450D is equally capable of IR photography to my old (nowadays dead) EOS 300D. Actually despite of lower sensitivity (1-2 stops) the fact that with it I can quite safely use ISO 400 without too much worry about noise and the level of detail it's capable of producing being quite drastically higher, in real life it's actually far superior to the 300D, which I considered only slightly frustrating tool.
Made a few very pleasant discoveries about it too. With my 50mm F/1.8 LiveView autofocus works like a dream and to my great surprise exposure metering in LiveView works great as well.
So let this serve as a word of encouragement for those interested in the field. EOS 450D is considered one of the least sensitive cameras in the market today but it's still fairly usable as long as you remember to bring a stand.
Enough blabbering. First of all let's start with a few words about taking the photos. The optimal conditions for IR photography are somewhat different to any other form of photography. By far the best is a sunny day around noon. One other observation that I've made is that it actually seems to pay off setting the white balance manually on the camera even if shooting RAW. This should by any means be a non issue but for some reason, in Canon cameras you get a wider spectral range if you do. If you're shooting JPEG this is really a must. Setting it is fairly simple. Just use in the lighting conditions you'll be working a patch of grass or leaves of a tree for a white balance reference. Canon cameras don't have wide enough range for white balance setting even lower value than 2000K would be needed but what can you do.
As for processing once you know what to do it's actually fairly simple. In Photoshop the basic procedure is following:
1. Channel Mixer
Select red channel -> Set source channel red to 0% and set blue to 100% -> Select blue channel -> The same in vice versa red to 100% and blue to 0%
In effect you'll be swapping blue and red channels with each other.
If you're insanely lucky that might do it. If not...
Levels tool has a gray point picker now this is more trial and error than anything else. If you want the greenery to have a warm hue you might want to find some blue spot with relatively low saturation. This will decrease the saturation of the blue areas a bit and most probably give a yellowish tint to the foliage.
Trial and error stuff once again. Try out different master hue points. You might want to adjust the master hue according to the foliage. If the sky gets an undesired color you can adjust hue and saturation of the component colors individually.
Now here's something for you to play around with.
I can share the exports of my other IR works as well if you want to fool around with them more before running off to the shops to buy filters.
Original RAW, adjusted and exported to DNG.
Preview uploaded to the group gallery.
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