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Old 2012-02-17, 15:40   Link #41
0utf0xZer0
Pretentious moe scholar
 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Age: 27
@Kitame:
I think your recommendation didn't so much get ignored as lost along the way. Do remember you're only one voice among several in this thread and second, you posted so many different price points it was never entirely clear what you recommending. Should have stuck to a single 1080P recommendation IMO.

When recommending to newbies simple is generally better - there's a limit to how many variables the human mind can effectively track at once (which include everyone's recommendations, not just yours) and that's even worse with newbies who don't know what information they can just discard as irrelevant.
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Old 2012-02-17, 15:50   Link #42
Random32
Also a Lolicon
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
What is TDP:

Intel TDP - If you put the CPU at true 100% load (power virus), it can go over TDP at stock clock no turbo. In addition, Intel's turbo doesn't really respect TDP that well either since its more heat based than power consumption based, though Turbo on desktop doesn't tend to put the chip over TDP as much as laptop turbo. Ivy Bridge introduces a configurable maximum power draw I believe.

AMD TDP - For CPU's its the most the CPU will ever draw at stock settings worst case scenario (at least for servers, not sure about desktop/mobile). Turbo is power consumption capped I believe. For server CPU's and graphics cards, the maximum power draw is configurable. It would be nice if configurable TDP came to mobile/desktop, but it sadly doesn't seem like thats happening any time soon.

nV TDP - It's what the chip draws in what nV thinks is an average usage scenario. It's pretty far from the maximum it can draw doing a real world activity and even further away from what it can actually draw when you specifically try to make it consume more power.

tl;dr. Other than for AMD, TDP is an average real world 100% load power draw, not a worst case scenario power draw.

I wouldn't recommend going for the lower power PSU suggested by Kitame. Anyways, a good PSU means one component you won't have to buy again if you want to upgrade.
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Old 2012-02-18, 04:48   Link #43
Spectacular_Insanity
Ha ha ha ha ha...
*Graphic Designer
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dist View Post
Just gonna note, that despite what you said in your OP that you won't be playing Crysis or stuff alike, I assure you that this setup WILL play Crysis and Crysis 2 on maximum settings. So now if there's a game you want to try .. Don't bother looking at the system requirements.. Your computer WILL play it :P
And that, my friend, was the entire point of this. I just want to play the games I want without having to worry about my computer's ability to handle the graphics. Advanced or otherwise.

And @ Kitame: No sorry, I didn't skip your post, but I wasn't sure what it was about those components you were recommending. I'm not to the point where I can understand the pros and cons of components just by reading their description, as they tend to be "talked up" in marketing-speak on their respective websites.

And I definitely understand the adage that in computer construction, might DOES NOT make right. I shudder to think what would happen if I tried to force something. I can just see my motherboard snapping in half in my mind. Not a pretty picture. I know it's an exaggeration, but nothing would be worse than breaking something sensitive (and expensive).
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Old 2012-02-18, 05:10   Link #44
erneiz_hyde
Indifferent
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: InterWebs
How long do you guys think Spectacular_Insanity's rig can keep effectively playing the newest games? Effective as in playing it at least on normal/medium settings.

I have a 2 years old rig that still use HD5700 series and still haven't encountered major problem in playing games, yet anyway.
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Old 2012-02-18, 06:01   Link #45
Kitame
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Random32 View Post
What is TDP:

Intel TDP - If you put the CPU at true 100% load (power virus), it can go over TDP at stock clock no turbo. In addition, Intel's turbo doesn't really respect TDP that well either since its more heat based than power consumption based, though Turbo on desktop doesn't tend to put the chip over TDP as much as laptop turbo. Ivy Bridge introduces a configurable maximum power draw I believe.

AMD TDP - For CPU's its the most the CPU will ever draw at stock settings worst case scenario (at least for servers, not sure about desktop/mobile). Turbo is power consumption capped I believe. For server CPU's and graphics cards, the maximum power draw is configurable. It would be nice if configurable TDP came to mobile/desktop, but it sadly doesn't seem like thats happening any time soon.

nV TDP - It's what the chip draws in what nV thinks is an average usage scenario. It's pretty far from the maximum it can draw doing a real world activity and even further away from what it can actually draw when you specifically try to make it consume more power.

tl;dr. Other than for AMD, TDP is an average real world 100% load power draw, not a worst case scenario power draw.

I wouldn't recommend going for the lower power PSU suggested by Kitame. Anyways, a good PSU means one component you won't have to buy again if you want to upgrade.
that 650watt suggested was for a single card but can hold two cards at the same time with tight headroom. plus i already recalculated everything to include a 750watt PSU to begin with... sigh.
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Old 2012-02-18, 06:40   Link #46
Irenicus
Le fou, c'est moi
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Las Vegas, NV, USA
Age: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by erneiz_hyde View Post
How long do you guys think Spectacular_Insanity's rig can keep effectively playing the newest games? Effective as in playing it at least on normal/medium settings.
A bit off topic, but the "Medium playable" line some years from now will likely be defined by the capabilities of the upcoming generation of consoles, of which little is known. A quick google found an article by techradar listing some of the rumors [keyword: rumors] about the new Xbox 720, of which the most interesting is the potential central role that AMD's APU technology will play. If an Xbox will indeed sport an APU, a big and very iffy "If," the potential of the next generation consoles will be defined by how much AMD's APU line, currently in its first generation, matures.

Once we have the idea of what the new consoles are capable of and when they will be released, you can set the PC-playable line somewhat above that and consider your question answered -- somewhat above because game developers will always optimize better for the static console hardware.

Going by past trends, and by the static condition of the current gen console market, he'll be able to play games at complete leisure for at least 2 years easily, and medium or higher settings for most games for at least 3-4 years at a conservative estimate except for the power-munchers that seem to be built for benchmarks and shinies than for actual gaming entertainment.

And why am I talking about the consoles? Because of the cross-platform nature of most "AAA" game titles. They need to be at least playable on a current gen console -- albeit, that baseline is increasingly stressed these days. Bungie pushed the limits of the Xbox 360 for Halo Reach, and I laugh at any idiot who bought Skyrim for PS3 given that the playability there is basically "technical" in comparison to a half-decent ~$600 PC one could throw together. Spectacular_Insanity with his new PC will, of course, have a spectacular time (...I'm sorry ) if he ever wants to play Skyrim at whatever insane settings he desires, preferably with a wtflolwut high-resolution texture pack so he can get his, IMO rather luxuriously expensive, GPU to do some work.
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Old 2012-02-24, 15:08   Link #47
Spectacular_Insanity
Ha ha ha ha ha...
*Graphic Designer
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 26
Well, it's all done. I finished it two days ago. Took me about 6.5 hours total, but I think I got all the wires cables connected right. I'll post pictures of the guts of my beastie soon.

One last question for all of you concerning my OS. I'm installing Windows 7 Home Premium, but which one do I install, 64-bit or 32-bit? I know for certain I'll need 64-bit, but can I skip 32-bit installation, or will I need to install both to run older programs?

Edit: Wait, I lied about the last question being my last. Do I go ahead and install all the drivers that came with my components, or do I wait and install them from online sources? If I do install them, do I install them before or after I install the OS? None of my manuals say anything on the matter. >_<
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Old 2012-02-24, 15:12   Link #48
Dhomochevsky
temporary safeguard
 
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Germany
Age: 33
You will install 64bit, because otherwise you will not be able to use all of your shiny new RAM.

If you run in into a problem with old software somehow later on, there are various ways to fix that.
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Old 2012-02-24, 17:06   Link #49
iceyfw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Age: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectacular_Insanity View Post
Edit: Wait, I lied about the last question being my last. Do I go ahead and install all the drivers that came with my components, or do I wait and install them from online sources? If I do install them, do I install them before or after I install the OS? None of my manuals say anything on the matter. >_<
install drivers after the OS is done installing unless you're using a RAID driver when reinstalling the OS. general rule of thumb is to download latest drivers off the vendors website, but if they cause problems, then try the disc drivers which came with the hardware.
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Old 2012-02-24, 18:28   Link #50
Spectacular_Insanity
Ha ha ha ha ha...
*Graphic Designer
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 26
Awesome. Thanks guys. I'm actually making this post from my new computer.

Everything is working great (and I got my Webroot installed too) but I do have one problem: My secondary harddrive isn't showing up on my Computer, but it does show up on Device Manager. I just can't figure out how to get it to, well... store stuff. Am I missing something? I hooked it up to the SATA_1 wire slot (my SSD is on my SATA_0 slot and is my OS drive) and the power connector is secure, so what gives? The drivers are updated and everything. >_<
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Old 2012-02-24, 19:07   Link #51
iceyfw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Age: 25
it might not have a partition. to see if you need to make a partition, go and follow this guide. it's really simple. if you find a "Not Intialized" under Disk Management, then we know what the problem is.

http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/m.../gg309170.aspx

or quick vid tutorial (skip to 1:00)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7_aZ...qhJEHWhZHBXodW
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Old 2012-02-24, 19:16   Link #52
DragoZERO
Spoilaphobic
*IT Support
 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: USA
Age: 28
And make sure you assign it a driver letter.
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Old 2012-02-24, 19:27   Link #53
Spectacular_Insanity
Ha ha ha ha ha...
*Graphic Designer
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Right behind you.
Age: 26
Ah, that was it. It wasn't formatted. I didn't know because I've always used externals.

I feel stupid now. After I knew the answer it took about 15 seconds to do.

Thanks a ton once again guys. I appreciate your saving me from my own ignorance.
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Old 2012-02-24, 19:55   Link #54
Ledgem
Love Yourself
 
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northeast USA
Age: 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectacular_Insanity View Post
Ah, that was it. It wasn't formatted. I didn't know because I've always used externals.
I always format externals even if they come pre-formatted. It seems like half the time there's crapware loaded onto the drives...

Congratulations on completing your first system build! It's not terribly complicated, but it's a very daunting task when you're looking at doing it for the first time. Good on you for challenging yourself and going through with it! I'm sure that you've learned a lot from the process, too.

Enjoy your new system!
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