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Old 2013-01-03, 06:11   Link #28521
bio9205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maknaedik View Post
Just a warning though, I started out as a straight build guy too. I have bought the polishing compound and has a wide range of sand papers. It worked WELL, I even think that the polishing compound was unnecessary. It's currently stocked for 3 years now and never had an opportunity of using it again. After doing so, I went on and try topcoating. I don't want my kits to get scratches and everything so topcoating it made sense. Tried it and next thing I know, I'm already doing some minor mods, even tried doing MG Justice myself but hasn't finished it for more than a year now. Point is, it's fun. Don't limit yourself, not unless you don't really have the time. ENJOY airbrushing (I don't have one, LOL!)
Thanks for the advice! I've decided to forget about the polishing compound. Anyway, some questions about topcoating - do I do it before/after I build, and how do I go about doing it? Spraying? With a paintbrush? Also, if I want to say paint/sand/panel line (say I missed a spot) after topcoating, is it still possible? Thanks!
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Old 2013-01-03, 07:10   Link #28522
maknaedik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
Anyway, some questions about topcoating - do I do it before/after I build, and how do I go about doing it? Spraying? With a paintbrush? !
If you're going to topcoat the kit without removing seamlines and you'll just remove the nubmarks, I can recommend doing the ff:

- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks.
- Second, the snapbuild.
- Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines.
- Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything.
- Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it.
- Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything.
- Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches.
- Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
Also, if I want to say paint/sand/panel line (say I missed a spot) after topcoating, is it still possible? Thanks!
- Painting is ok, it will cover up the tocpoat. Better if you strip the paint but I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning to.
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above.
- For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home.
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Old 2013-01-03, 07:30   Link #28523
duotiga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonta Kun View Post
....I think you need to go see someone about that

Hope you enjoy building them at least!

only 1 of 4 built

some RGs i have multiple sets also
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Old 2013-01-03, 07:55   Link #28524
bio9205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maknaedik View Post
If you're going to topcoat the kit without removing seamlines and you'll just remove the nubmarks, I can recommend doing the ff:

- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks.
- Second, the snapbuild.
- Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines.
- Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything.
- Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it.
- Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything.
- Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches.
- Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty.



- Painting is ok, it will cover up the tocpoat. Better if you strip the paint but I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning to.
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above.
- For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home.
Thanks so much for this. I'm assuming a spray is used? Also, is there a way to remove the topcoat?

As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi - I'm done with its head and torso, it looks so good just out of the box.

Thanks once again, that was really useful. I'm really busy right now, hopefully I'll be able to find the time to make a trip to my hobby store this week or the next to pick up some topcoat.

EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.)
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Old 2013-01-03, 09:02   Link #28525
maknaedik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
I'm assuming a spray is used?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
Also, is there a way to remove the topcoat?
Yes, there is. For a surface that is flat (when I mean flat, it means no channels for pane lines, rivets, bumps or anything), you can sand it. If you don't want to go that route, you can strip it just like paint. For lacquer based topcoats, which I use, denatured alcohol is the cheap alternative. Haven't tried this myself yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi.
Kinda, but there are preparations which you can do like cutting a tiny portion of the pegs that will connect to holes. You actually have to cut it diagonally. Doing this can make disassembling parts easier. I haven't done it actually since I haven't done any major accidents. Yes, I use hobby knife since it's the thinnest of all my tools that I can use to pull apart snapped together parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.)
Well, it's kinda risky, but you can always sand the scratches/marks that a hobby knife can leave. Anyway, I haven't had any accidents disassembling parts given that I have a very shaky hands, I think you'll be fine.

Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle.
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I'm a red gunpla collector. I collect everything that's red. But my priorities are MG->1/100->HGs unless they're super rare

Red Gunpla Reviews: http://redblondemean.wordpress.com

My Personal Blog: http://cmgaddict.wordpress.com
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Old 2013-01-03, 10:07   Link #28526
suiton629
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What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html
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Old 2013-01-03, 10:56   Link #28527
Obelisk ze Tormentor
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Originally Posted by suiton629 View Post
What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?
Let me repeat myself from one page ago:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor View Post
Instead of thinking too much of what kits to come, asking others about it, and putting on your wishlist again and again and again, why not enjoy what we already get and do something productive like, say, building your backlog of kits.
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Old 2013-01-03, 10:57   Link #28528
suiton629
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Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor View Post
Let me repeat myself from one page ago:
I could. =) And yes. I do recall you saying something similar.
But I will get to building them when I can, which is why I go for MG's only since they don't come out as much, thus reducing the odds of me overspending and overbuying...ultimately leading to a massive backlog.
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Old 2013-01-03, 17:29   Link #28529
FalsePrime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suiton629 View Post
What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html
Given how amazing the first four months are for MG's, no need for a wishlist right now really.

TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake.
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Old 2013-01-03, 18:37   Link #28530
suiton629
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Originally Posted by FalsePrime View Post
Given how amazing the first four months are for MG's, no need for a wishlist right now really.

TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake.
Well considering I'm not getting the Sinanju Stein MG Ver. Ka nor the Tallgeese EW MG, it wouldn't be "amazing" for me.

Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 – March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know?
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Old 2013-01-03, 19:39   Link #28531
Obelisk ze Tormentor
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Originally Posted by suiton629 View Post
Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 Ė March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know?
Just FYI, MGs from G Gundam are great so far.

Oh, also, can you post a more constructive or positive post in this thread? Almost all your posts here basically can be broken down into two patterns:
  1. Hey guys, this old (insert name) kit sucks. I donít want to buy it. Do you think itíll get a Ver 2.0?
  2. Hey guys, this is my (insert number of repeated times) wishlist. What do you think?
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Old 2013-01-03, 19:46   Link #28532
bio9205
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Don't feed the troll guys, you'll just encourage him to keep doing that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maknaedik View Post
Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle.
Wow, those are some tough grits - topcoat smoothens out any rough marks made during sanding, am I right? Also, can I just topcoat the entire kit after assembly?

Anyway, new pics of HG G-Xiphos!

Spoiler:


Hope the HG Genoace O-Custom rumour is true. These 2 are some of my favourite AGE kits, glad Bandai finally decided to release them.
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Old 2013-01-03, 20:06   Link #28533
suiton629
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http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/01/blog-post.html

Transformers + Gundam = ?!
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Old 2013-01-03, 20:31   Link #28534
maknaedik
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Originally Posted by bio9205 View Post
Wow, those are some tough grits - topcoat smoothens out any rough marks made during sanding, am I right? Also, can I just topcoat the entire kit after assembly?
Let's say they hide the marks, but not the deep ones.

Yes, you can topcoat the entire kit after assembly. Just make sure you cover everything and it's even. Avoid topcoating the clear parts. They don't have the same look when you topcoat then.
__________________
I'm a red gunpla collector. I collect everything that's red. But my priorities are MG->1/100->HGs unless they're super rare

Red Gunpla Reviews: http://redblondemean.wordpress.com

My Personal Blog: http://cmgaddict.wordpress.com
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Old 2013-01-04, 09:48   Link #28535
Jimmy C
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I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?
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Old 2013-01-04, 22:06   Link #28536
ForwardUntoDawn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?
Those sound like dry-transfer decals. Most people would cut them out and then stick it to the region they wish, then gently use their fingers or a utility to rub the decal onto the surface. If they're not dry-transfer decals, then I'd have no idea and may require someone else to step in
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Old 2013-01-04, 23:32   Link #28537
Skye629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?
Whats the color of the paper backing, and what year was it made? Thats usually the best indication of what you are handling


For earlier topics: Whoa how come some of you guys use such rough grits? At MOST I use 600, thats when sanding down a big nub Im too afraid to cut with nippers or my hobby knife. From there (Or after I cut using aforementioned tools) I go with 1000 to 1500 and sometimes 2000, which takes some care because you may overpolish the part resulting in a shinier glossier finish (for topcoaters this wont matter too much)
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Old 2013-01-05, 02:52   Link #28538
Jimmy C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skye629 View Post
Whats the color of the paper backing, and what year was it made? Thats usually the best indication of what you are handling
The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?
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Old 2013-01-05, 03:05   Link #28539
Obelisk ze Tormentor
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Originally Posted by Jimmy C View Post
The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?
That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed.
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Old 2013-01-05, 03:39   Link #28540
firefox
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Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor View Post
That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed.
Nope that's all i've ever seen. Don't know any other type.
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