Gundam Models Discussion Thread

[Winchester]

I usually build aircraft and helicopters, which nearly always (at least for the kits I build) need paint and glue, so I'm not exactly a newbie. I'm just getting a leeetle bit tired of having to buy a new tin of white each time I start a new project, just because the old tin has turned yellow...

Anyway, I found a tin of Gloss White (Humbrol 22) that appeared OK, so I'll give that a shot later. (Gloss is better for decalling and weathering anyway...) First of all though I need to strip the old paint off and sort out the damage I made to it when I was detaching the pieces from the sprues. Some parts of the kit (especially the backs of the lower legs) look awful, and will require some work to get decent again.

Right now my Exia is in its box, completely and utterly disassembled. I've spent the past several hours looking at various other people's Exias (and 00 raisers), to get some kind of feel for where I want to go. I've got the paints needed to do the original scheme (dark blue, white and red). Not sure I want to stick to that, though - I saw several cool alternatives, including a yellow and black version. We'll see...

Here's a quick question - if I go with some variation of the original color scheme (i.e white blue and red), what color would be the best suited for the frame parts - dark gray, black, or gunmetal?

Cheers for now,

SP

[X207]

ive just noticed this but the humbrol white matt 34 does seem to tend to go yellow a bit. atm ive used it unmixed on my SD lunamaria zaku. had to touch up some small spots today, i finished painting it over a month ago. it may be the tin of paint in my case, the shield has enough coats of paint on it atm.

[Winchester]

All the different versions have their own problems...

Flat white is either too thick, in which case I get serious brushstroke problems; or too thin, in which case it doesn't cover at all except in the corners, where it builds up and looks awful. It also tends to be almost too flat - the surface feels gritty, worse than other flat paints.

Satin white is easier to get to the right thickness and coverage, though it turns yellow in its tin faster than the others. It also seems sensitive to being rubbed off, which is no good at all.

And gloss white is slow to dry and attracts dust particles like a magnet while drying...

...so, who has a cool alternative to white for the main color of the Exia? :-)

SP

[Pocky Yoshi]

I wish I had the destroy version of Gundam Unicorn......

[X207]

Originally Posted by Winchester

All the different versions have their own problems...

Flat white is either too thick, in which case I get serious brushstroke problems; or too thin, in which case it doesn't cover at all except in the corners, where it builds up and looks awful. It also tends to be almost too flat - the surface feels gritty, worse than other flat paints.

Satin white is easier to get to the right thickness and coverage, though it turns yellow in its tin faster than the others. It also seems sensitive to being rubbed off, which is no good at all.

And gloss white is slow to dry and attracts dust particles like a magnet while drying...

...so, who has a cool alternative to white for the main color of the Exia? :-)

SP

thanks for the info on the other humbrol white enamels. i'll probably stick to the flat white because im a bit tired to see a gloss finish on my models when possible. i dont mind if it goes a bit gritty atm.

[SonicSP]

Originally Posted by Winchester

Here's a quick question - if I go with some variation of the original color scheme (i.e white blue and red), what color would be the best suited for the frame parts - dark gray, black, or gunmetal?

Cheers for now,

SP

Dark gray in my opinion, but then again I rarely repaint. I usually use dark grey to complete the missing frame colors in my HG 00.

But frankly, black may look better depending on color variation you choose which is highly subjective but my default answer would be dark gray.

Take a look at the Astraea F if you wish, its frame color is different by default from the Original Astraea. The F has have more brownish frame color against its full red armor. The Original Astraea uses the same dark grey frame with the traditional hero colors on the armor. This trait carries over to its successor the Exia.


As for information about the booklets, some of us may be aware of the information of some of the booklets due to some of the translators doing some partial translating for us but it varies depending on the kit, so we dont have all of them, not even close to a full scanlation. If you want to know about something in a booklet, I may have some from the info that ppl may have translated from the past and I'll help you whatever way I can if you want, as long as it falls under the Anoo Domini category. Just be careful about what you read in Gundam Wikia, it may not necessarily be true especially if it isnt sourced.

[Winchester]

Originally Posted by X207

thanks for the info on the other humbrol white enamels. i'll probably stick to the flat white because im a bit tired to see a gloss finish on my models when possible. i dont mind if it goes a bit gritty atm.

I learned from building aircraft etc, and reading about aircraft modelling, that regardless of what the end finish is supposed to be, you want a gloss finish for when you add decals and panel lines. A flat finish causes microscopic bubbles under decals, which makes them look silvery when they dry. When you're done with the decals and panel lines, you can change the whole finish of the kit by adding a flat clear coat. I use SC Johnson floor wax for my clear coats, with some Tamiya Acrylic Flat Base added when I need a flat coat, a trick I also learned from the aircraft modelling sites.

Originally Posted by SonicSP

Dark gray in my opinion, but then again I rarely repaint. I usually use dark grey to complete the missing frame colors in my HG 00.

But frankly, black may look better depending on color variation you choose which is highly subjective but my default answer would be dark gray.

From the look of some of the finished models I've seen so far, and the MG/PG kits, I may end up deciding on black, gray or gunmetal on a case-by-case basis - there are sprues of all three colors in the higher grade kits, after all.

As to the booklet stuff, it's not too important. What I'm looking for mostly is translations for the weapons descriptions. No hurry. :-)

In other news, I've stripped the paint off completely now, with a few really stubborn exceptions that thankfully won't matter (hard to see spots). I'm waiting for the parts to dry off right now, will probably try to start painting again tomorrow.

Cheers,

SP

[X207]

Originally Posted by Winchester

I learned from building aircraft etc, and reading about aircraft modelling, that regardless of what the end finish is supposed to be, you want a gloss finish for when you add decals and panel lines. A flat finish causes microscopic bubbles under decals, which makes them look silvery when they dry. When you're done with the decals and panel lines, you can change the whole finish of the kit by adding a flat clear coat. I use SC Johnson floor wax for my clear coats, with some Tamiya Acrylic Flat Base added when I need a flat coat, a trick I also learned from the aircraft modelling sites.



From the look of some of the finished models I've seen so far, and the MG/PG kits, I may end up deciding on black, gray or gunmetal on a case-by-case basis - there are sprues of all three colors in the higher grade kits, after all.

As to the booklet stuff, it's not too important. What I'm looking for mostly is translations for the weapons descriptions. No hurry. :-)

In other news, I've stripped the paint off completely now, with a few really stubborn exceptions that thankfully won't matter (hard to see spots). I'm waiting for the parts to dry off right now, will probably try to start painting again tomorrow.

Cheers,

SP

thanks for the tips, my next project once i clear my backlog of 3 MS kits is an SU-47 Berkut jet with its wings swept forward. it'll be the first time ive worked on a kit requiring glue to assemble for 7 years or so atm.

[Winchester]

In my experience, all kits require glue. Eventually. :-) One of the frames that go between the torso and arm on my Exia broke in two when I was cleaning the paint off, so Gundam kits are no exception.

Good luck with the Berkut, hope it comes out looking good. I haven't built that thing myself, I've been a bit bummed out by the lack of decent 1/72 scale Russian fighters. They all have serious problems... (for a decent Flanker model in 1/72, you need to combine three different kits - Airfix or Heller for the frame, Nakotne/Encore for the wings, and Hasegawa/Revell for the weapons pylons and decals...)

Cheers,

SP

[LoweGear]

My HGFC God Gundam can do unsupported handstands it seems...

[RAVNEN]

OMG!!!...that is wicked,that kit lived up to it name as "God gundam"...look likes there are also Nu Gundam on top of that system unit..err that is a dangerous place for model kit...

Just got a MG Strike Freedom FBM from a guy on a local forum. I noticed the front armor skirt are very loose. It is natural for the kit to have a loose armor skirt??

[StrikeFreedomV2]

Originally Posted by RAVNEN

OMG!!!...that is wicked,that kit lived up to it name as "God gundam"...look likes there are also Nu Gundam on top of that system unit..err that is a dangerous place for model kit...

Just got a MG Strike Freedom FBM from a guy on a local forum. I noticed the front armor skirt are very loose. It is natural for the kit to have a loose armor skirt??

I would say no. I have mine for awhile now and it doest have any weak joints until now.

[azuma-blade]

Originally Posted by LoweGear

My HGFC God Gundam can do unsupported handstands it seems...

lol i see dota players in the background

anyways

nice pose on the God Gundam

[DC23]

Ello guys, I would just like to invite you all to join are 2 day old group at Facebook.
It is an international community that encourages members, specially the new and young modelers to share there works. This site promotes equality amongst ALL members and foster true friendships amongst people of the same fandom - GUNDAM.

MECH ARTS community



Hope to see your kits there. thanks! XD

[X207]

Originally Posted by Winchester

In my experience, all kits require glue. Eventually. :-) One of the frames that go between the torso and arm on my Exia broke in two when I was cleaning the paint off, so Gundam kits are no exception.

Good luck with the Berkut, hope it comes out looking good. I haven't built that thing myself, I've been a bit bummed out by the lack of decent 1/72 scale Russian fighters. They all have serious problems... (for a decent Flanker model in 1/72, you need to combine three different kits - Airfix or Heller for the frame, Nakotne/Encore for the wings, and Hasegawa/Revell for the weapons pylons and decals...)

Cheers,

SP

some of my MS have glue already though nothing too major broke ie large moving parts. so far its only small and/or immobile peices. the su-47 is made by hobby boss, i might skip over the 2 untouched MS kits to do it but i still need the final push to finish my current model. when in make models i waste several hours to build and paint and a lot of procrastination in between. one is a nebula blitz gundam crab that i'll repaint to the original color scheme but repainting a whole kit usually has caused procrastination more than the minimal painting kits i have.

do you have any advice on glueing cockpit canopies and axles/landing gears? ive always had problems with those in particular. canopies became clouded from the glue and axles were rather melted at times from the glue. what sort of things should i pay attention to check the quality of the russian kits? i have a badly made v-22 1/72 osprey, RAH-66 commanche. the commanche is decent if you disregard my mistakes in glueing the rear rotor, the main rotor wobbles, those were the avoidable problems i had if i just planned ahead.

[Kaioshin Sama]

I'm partway through my HG Unicorn Mode model and realizing that I'll probably never have to paint this one. It's amazing how little colour it actually has. Luckily I picked up an HG V2 Buster Gundam at Anime North for my second model. I saw the new Perfect Grade 00 Raiser there as well with one of the store employees always appearing to be standing right next to it just in case.

[Winchester]

Sounds like you have a lot of kits to work on! (though I shouldn't be saying anything, I've got forty or so helicopters, tanks and jets in 1/72 scale that I still haven't finished up).

It sounds like you're using too much glue on your models, if you're having trouble with melting parts. It only takes a tiny bit. I use cement that comes in a needle applicator bottle (it has a long thin metal tube that the glue comes out of). This makes it easy to get the glue exactly where you want it, and in the proper amount.

For clear parts, the fogging is due to fumes from the glue, and also from fresh glue being applied directly to clear plastic. Try applying the cement to the non-clear part instead, and leaving it to dry for just a bit so that the worst fumes can escape. As long as it's still sticky, the clear part will stick fine.

Also, there are non-reactive glues you can use for clear parts - white glue, normally used for woodworking; Humbrol Clearfix, which is made for this stuff; or you can use clear varnish. These aren't very strong, but for some parts it doesn't matter.

Finally, there's superglue. It has kind of the same problem as regular cement (it fogs parts if you're in too much of a hurry), but for a different reason (cement fumes actually eat the plastic, superglue instead leaves a residue when the fumes dry). It's excellent for things where you need a strong joint but have a tiny area to work with (the hinges on an open canopy), or for that matter for landing gear. Superglue is one of those things where less really is more, though - the less you use, the stronger it is. Be really careful with it, because the one thing it sticks absolute best to is skin. Gluing yourself to a table is no fun.

Cheers,

SP

[X207]

Originally Posted by Winchester

Sounds like you have a lot of kits to work on! (though I shouldn't be saying anything, I've got forty or so helicopters, tanks and jets in 1/72 scale that I still haven't finished up).

It sounds like you're using too much glue on your models, if you're having trouble with melting parts. It only takes a tiny bit. I use cement that comes in a needle applicator bottle (it has a long thin metal tube that the glue comes out of). This makes it easy to get the glue exactly where you want it, and in the proper amount.

For clear parts, the fogging is due to fumes from the glue, and also from fresh glue being applied directly to clear plastic. Try applying the cement to the non-clear part instead, and leaving it to dry for just a bit so that the worst fumes can escape. As long as it's still sticky, the clear part will stick fine.

Also, there are non-reactive glues you can use for clear parts - white glue, normally used for woodworking; Humbrol Clearfix, which is made for this stuff; or you can use clear varnish. These aren't very strong, but for some parts it doesn't matter.

Finally, there's superglue. It has kind of the same problem as regular cement (it fogs parts if you're in too much of a hurry), but for a different reason (cement fumes actually eat the plastic, superglue instead leaves a residue when the fumes dry). It's excellent for things where you need a strong joint but have a tiny area to work with (the hinges on an open canopy), or for that matter for landing gear. Superglue is one of those things where less really is more, though - the less you use, the stronger it is. Be really careful with it, because the one thing it sticks absolute best to is skin. Gluing yourself to a table is no fun.

Cheers,

SP

i dont have that many, gotts stop procrastinating on the akatsuki and someday get around to the SD blitz gundam. its not the biggest back log ive had, so far its 4 MS kits back log. then again a 1/772 aircraft is still a kit. i cant really stand having a backlog of 4 or more unopened kits. i think i once was 5 behind but it forced me to clear up some backlog.

thank you very much winchester. i do have a needle applicator humbrol poly cement, humbrol dope and another poly cement in a jar (unsure if jar is still good). i got the lesson of overglueing various parts quite early on in the kits. i never did wait for the fumes to clear up when i glued any canopies but fortunately they dont seem to be too cloudy. my father does have a balsa model which he started but never had the time to complete, i'll see if he has clearfix or an equivalent.

i also have humbrol matt varnish but not clear varnish. its slightly yellow and absolutely ineffective in matting finishes but it might be useful for canopies. not sure how the yellow will stand out but testing may help in that case. ive had encounters with super glue on skin, not very fun at all but it worked wonders to fix broken parts on my MS kits. how long do you hold the poly cement so it can seal sufficiently to move on to the next while wainting it to fully dry?

[DC23]

Ello guys, just inviting you to our first ONLINE Gundam model kit competition -
DC23 M.A.C. at facebook

[Winchester]

Originally Posted by X207

i also have humbrol matt varnish but not clear varnish. its slightly yellow and absolutely ineffective in matting finishes but it might be useful for canopies. not sure how the yellow will stand out but testing may help in that case. ive had encounters with super glue on skin, not very fun at all but it worked wonders to fix broken parts on my MS kits. how long do you hold the poly cement so it can seal sufficiently to move on to the next while wainting it to fully dry?

I usually test it by releasing the pressure on the part and seeing if it moves. If it does, hold it for a little longer. A couple of minutes is usually enough.

Cheers