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Old 2007-09-07, 03:08   Link #681
GameraBaenre
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 39
Hey all, this is a kit I started working on about two weeks ago. I picked her up a few months ago when she showed up for sale on HobbySearch. I first saw her in a hobby magazine and just had to have her. I finally got some free time from work and other stuff. Current progress page from my website: http://gamerabaenre.com/midori_prog.htm <-- more pictures here
The past two weeks was spent pinning, sanding, and bathing her in some industrial strength cleaning solution (Purple Power).
Yesterday and today I took the parts out of the purple soup and placed them into my ultrasonic cleaner to give the parts a thorough cleansing. Once dried I got the chance to do a quick assembly and snap some pictures.

Standard size comparison with my Master Grade G3:

And I got her primed tonight. I started with Mr Resin Primer which is my normal primer I've been using for resin kits, but switched over to Alclad II gray primer that I picked up about a year ago. Pretty nice stuff, just going to wait until tomorrow to see how well the primer bites into the resin surface. It did fill in some of the scratches very nicely, so it'll be interesting to see if anything shrinks while it cures.
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Old 2007-09-07, 07:51   Link #682
Diaboso
we girls arnt safe!
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Age: 26
wow GameraBaenre now that looks like an interesting project. So how good are you at painting the faces?
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Old 2007-09-07, 11:51   Link #683
nightengale5385
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Age: 29
Looks like Midori will be an easy build. I regret not being able to get this kit and Natsuki when it was available at HLJ some time ago. Look forward to seeing her finished
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Old 2007-09-07, 17:53   Link #684
Garet Jax
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xellos-_^ View Post
just a a few won't hurt.

*gaspe Garet and drag him to the darkside

for that question i ask here http://animefigure.proboards57.com/
Haha, thanks, and for the link. Already I see another figure I want: the Clare preorders that have started. I'll have to wait until an English site puts her up, though.
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Old 2007-09-08, 16:13   Link #685
alpha3six
913-D
 
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Jersey USA
Just got the Hobby Japan High School Saber today.



Does anyone else have this one? I'm a little worried about the durability of the stuff that keeps the piece of toast in her mouth. I left it off on mine for now.
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Old 2007-09-08, 16:56   Link #686
NightbatŪ
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Neverlands
Age: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Already I see another figure I want: the Clare preorders that have started. I'll have to wait until an English site puts her up, though.
I'm on that figure like a fat lady wants a piece of weddingcake
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Old 2007-09-08, 17:00   Link #687
Xellos-_^
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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unfortunately for me Clare has hair issues.

First thing I notice when i saw photos.
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Old 2007-09-09, 10:13   Link #688
NightbatŪ
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xellos-_^ View Post
unfortunately for me Clare has hair issues.

First thing I notice when i saw photos.

Dude,.... seek help, you definitely got issues
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Old 2007-09-09, 13:39   Link #689
Garet Jax
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Haha. Do you mean the crease in the hair, Xellos, or just in general? I admit it looks a bit odd, but not enough to take away from the rest of the figure.
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Old 2007-09-09, 14:05   Link #690
DSJFX18
Destiny
 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Its most likely the very noticeable seam in in the hair. Other figures have them too, but are just hidden better. It also doesn't help that Clare has her head lowered, putting the seam in full view. Max Factory's Al Azif also had this problem. Well its not like it'll stop me from gettign the figure. If I were to complain about the figure, it would be the weird bending in her dress armor.

Or maybe its just because the upper part of her hair lacks texture?
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Old 2007-09-09, 18:21   Link #691
NightbatŪ
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Neverlands
Age: 37
Take a bit of putty, fill it up, paint it, done!

me having 2 left hands when it comes to 'raw' (unassembled/unpainted) figs will have to
settle with less
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Old 2007-09-09, 18:37   Link #692
Xellos-_^
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightbatŪ View Post
Dude,.... seek help, you definitely got issues
you stop laughting at my fetishes and i won't laught at yours
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Old 2007-09-09, 18:53   Link #693
Aoie_Emesai
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Join Date: May 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xellos-_^ View Post
you stop laughting at my fetishes and i won't laught at yours
Hahaha, ^_^. No worries there Xellos
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Old 2007-09-10, 13:25   Link #694
GameraBaenre
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 39
A little update. http://www.gamerabaenre.com/midori_prog.htm
The prep work require to do before paint is a sizable portion of the entire build process. After the initial sanding process and bathing; I was finally able to spray on the first coat of primer. The primer opens up a world of surface defects that need to be fixed.

So the sanding process begins again, this time however, it is a more focused sanding process. A majority of the defects such as mold lines and pinholes have been taken care of, but now with the previous sanding session, I've introduced some rough sanding spots as visible scratches in the surface that the primer isn't able to completely fill. There are also areas where the initial sanding process missed and there are still some mold lines here and there.





A finer sanding pad is employed and more focus is given to the problem areas and I continue to wet sand. Once this has been complete to my satisfaction, the second primer session is sprayed. Once the primer has dried, I take a very high grit sanding mesh and polish the surface smooth, paying special attention to specific areas that were revealed in the previous primer session. Every now and then, I need to repeat the process with a couple of parts. I'm lucky this round and only the a small section on one of the hair parts needs to be puttied, sanded, and re primed. The rest of the parts can start the paint process.



The initial layers of paint have been sprayed. The initial darker skin tone, the boots, and weapons now have some paint. The weapon parts will take some time since I need to clear coat the metallics with future floor polish and allow for the future to cure a bit before masking the parts and continuing to paint other metallics. Interestingly that the painting portion of the build is considerably shorter than the preparatory phase of the build. If all goes well, visible progress should pick up.

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Old 2007-09-10, 14:38   Link #695
NightbatŪ
Deadpan Snarker
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: The Neverlands
Age: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xellos-_^ View Post
you stop laughting at my fetishes and i won't laught at yours

Who's laughing?

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Old 2007-09-11, 05:16   Link #696
dodgethis_sg
Storm of Her Wrath
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Singapore
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@GameraBaenre: You mentioned about using Mr Resin Primer. How does this compare to Mr Surfacer when working on resin kits? And would it be recommended for usage for plastic kits?
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Old 2007-09-11, 13:55   Link #697
GameraBaenre
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgethis_sg View Post
@GameraBaenre: You mentioned about using Mr Resin Primer. How does this compare to Mr Surfacer when working on resin kits? And would it be recommended for usage for plastic kits?
In all honestly, I cannot tell the difference between Mr Resin Primer and Mr Surfacer 1000. They look, feel, spray, and stick about the same. I would guess that Mr Resin primer has a little more bite and is stronger than Mr Surfacer as a primer formulated for resin kits, but I'm not entirely too sure on this.

Additionally, for the Midori kit, I've been using Alclad II's gray primer and that seems to be working well too.

For plastic kits, I recommend using Mr Surfacer 1000. This is the primer I've been using for my plastic kits.
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Old 2007-09-11, 15:58   Link #698
Master Chibi
.: A bad doggy :.
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Here's my collection :O

Haruhi Gashapon-
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/2300/figsdeskwb0.jpg

Rin Maid-
http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/7596/figrinlx8.jpg

Lum-
http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/2470/figlumir5.jpg

Tessa-
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/1047/figtesbp8.jpg

Chidori-
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4094/figchidxg5.jpg

Flay-
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/6778/figbitchcl5.jpg

Lil Hisui and Akiha-
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/4...2425023kx9.jpg

Full collection-
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/5751/figallow3.jpg

Two more pictures forthcoming
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Old 2007-09-11, 19:42   Link #699
dodgethis_sg
Storm of Her Wrath
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Singapore
Age: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by GameraBaenre View Post
In all honestly, I cannot tell the difference between Mr Resin Primer and Mr Surfacer 1000. They look, feel, spray, and stick about the same. I would guess that Mr Resin primer has a little more bite and is stronger than Mr Surfacer as a primer formulated for resin kits, but I'm not entirely too sure on this.

Additionally, for the Midori kit, I've been using Alclad II's gray primer and that seems to be working well too.

For plastic kits, I recommend using Mr Surfacer 1000. This is the primer I've been using for my plastic kits.
I'd been using Surfacer 1000 for a while on my plastic kits and recently started a resin kit. I tried masking off some skin portions and to my horror, the paint was peeled off by the tape. And yes, it was Tamiya tape.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll try to find some Alclad grey primer. Looks a tad dark though in the pictures.
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Old 2007-09-11, 20:04   Link #700
GameraBaenre
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Age: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgethis_sg View Post
I'd been using Surfacer 1000 for a while on my plastic kits and recently started a resin kit. I tried masking off some skin portions and to my horror, the paint was peeled off by the tape. And yes, it was Tamiya tape.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll try to find some Alclad grey primer. Looks a tad dark though in the pictures.
When the paint peeled off, did the primer also get pulled up or just the paint? Also, did you soak resin parts in some industrial strength cleaner such as purple power, simple gree, 409, oven cleaner, etc? I soak my parts for at least 24 hours, then scrub the parts with dish soap and warm water (in my case I use an ultrasonic cleaner for the scrubbing process) Once everything is dry, I spray on the primer. Every now and then I still get the primer lifted off the surface even when using Mr Resin primer. Sometimes the soaking process doesn't completely dissolve the mold release.

The alclad primer is a bit darker than Mr Resin primer and Mr Surfacer 1000. If you can get Mr Resin primer easily, then I recommend trying that first.
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