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Old 2013-11-27, 17:02   Link #32121
helois
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Italy
Age: 28
Kitbash Kyros-Dynames-Reborn! Now! :-D

I try glue builders parts to delta kai and it is a success..

Soon another "glue-session"(it smell very badly the plastic glue.. :-\ ) then i'll upload photos.. then rathrr than buy delta plus for the second rifle,i'll try resin copy..
Also photos.. :-)
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Old 2013-11-27, 17:14   Link #32122
suiton629
Master Grade Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
So the SDs I have now..

SD Exia
SD 00 Raiser x2 --> Got the 2nd for Condenser parts that come with SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 7 Sword G
SD God
SD Shining
SD Devil
SD Wing EW
SD Wing Zero Custom

What order should I do unboxings & reviews for on my blog?
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Old 2013-11-27, 19:30   Link #32123
Skye629
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor View Post
I also don't have that much time for gunpla aside from straight-building. I don't even have time to put decals on my recently-built MGs (Not that Strike Noir need any). Well, like others, at least I'll share a photo of my MG Destiny I just finished building:

Images
Which Destiny you ask? Destiny Heine, of course!! ^^
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duotiga View Post
im doing 2 RG Destiny at the same time....waiting for heine ver to come....

Spoiler:


I also have the MG Destiny Heine ver

Where did you guys get your MG Destiny Heine Ver.??? It's my most sought after kit atm, but I have not found any good/decent deals

The only place I have seen it is Ebay....and you know the sort of exclusive prices they have on there






Quote:
Originally Posted by suiton629 View Post
So the SDs I have now..

SD Exia
SD 00 Raiser x2 --> Got the 2nd for Condenser parts that come with SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 7 Sword G
SD God
SD Shining
SD Devil
SD Wing EW
SD Wing Zero Custom

What order should I do unboxings & reviews for on my blog?
Any order, cuz none of us here are going to be watching your videos anyways?
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Old 2013-11-27, 19:43   Link #32124
ZeroXSEED
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Inside your head
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strigon 13 View Post
Well, the guy who sold me the Kyrios also made an offer to me: an original Bandai 1/144 Hi-Nu Gundam + 2 bootlegs (1/144 Dynames and 1/144 Reborns Gundam) in $80.
That's... expensive

I think it's Nu Gundam that make up most of the cost, but still...
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Old 2013-11-27, 19:58   Link #32125
duotiga
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Age: 31
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I got it from my local hobby shop for the MG Heine ver
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Old 2013-11-27, 20:00   Link #32126
Strigon 13
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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I think I don't have much of a choice since HG Hi-Nu is at $80 atm (and that's the cheapest I could get after a lot of viewing in my country's stores), still getting 3 kits for the price of one (even if two are bootlegs) is better than nothing.
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Old 2013-11-27, 20:11   Link #32127
ZeroXSEED
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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AH, then you should get it
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Old 2013-11-27, 20:21   Link #32128
HurricaneHige
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Canada
They have arrived!

Will update more as I build:

Images
Big picture
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My rant blog (omg i'm blogging now, and not just anime)

Last edited by Konakaga; 2013-11-28 at 06:16. Reason: SPOILER TAGS DON'T SAVE BANDWIDTH!!!
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Old 2013-11-27, 21:36   Link #32129
Sworra
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Age: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Appel View Post
I used Tamiya spray paint. I just don't have the time to bust out my airbrush right now plus it's way too cold for that. I don't have a spray booth so I'd have to do it outside or at a window, so water would condense inside the hose which would ruin the paintjob.
With spray paint I painted all the pieces on the sprues within 30 minutes^^ And from what I have heard I don't have to worry about nubs on the frame, most of them are hidden.
And I won't paint or topcoat the armor. I don't really have the time for that. The quality of the plastic is fine, especially since the surface isn't as shiny as the Bandai plastic. I'll just try to hide the nubs as best as I can.
Well from the spray paint that you used, it looks pretty good. I'm surprised cause it looks like you took a airbrush to it.

This bootleg Strike Freedom, who makes it? Cause I've been seeing some good overall details from bootlegs. I wouldn't mind buying one but not a PG, Is there a site that you went to? If so just Private message me it. Thanks and Cheers!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by StratoSpear View Post
Set aside some hours for a couple of days and here's me progress on the 3.0:



The kit feels solid so far. My sibling has the Char Custom RX-78 and he's shocked beyond words at how much parts make up the 3.0's torso compared to his. Not to mention the movable chest vents ^^
One night I was on youtube looking at reviews. I came across the RX-78 OYW version and I have this version myself but I have not built it yet. So I started watching it and I was getting a bit turn off on how this OYW version is.. So the next day I called up a friend and I told him that I'm not going to build the OYW version cause of how much more work you had to do it, I'll admit I am being lazy on this cause normally I would just paint the parts or do it up.. But I know how the 3.0 is and so I told him to sell me his and he did.. $40 bucks and a brand new kit.. and updated can't go wrong.

Just thought I would share this story.. Anyways I'm looking forward to building the 3.0 and thanks for sharing your pic and your feedback.
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Old 2013-11-27, 22:13   Link #32130
ZeroXSEED
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Inside your head
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sworra View Post
Well from the spray paint that you used, it looks pretty good. I'm surprised cause it looks like you took a airbrush to it.

This bootleg Strike Freedom, who makes it? Cause I've been seeing some good overall details from bootlegs. I wouldn't mind buying one but not a PG, Is there a site that you went to? If so just Private message me it. Thanks and Cheers!!!
TT Hongli (China)

Their base paint slightly toxic, and their sticker is awfully bad. But their overall appearance is acceptable tradeoff, literally half price or less than that of bandai.

Daban is a branch with slightly better quality, but not worth the price. Except with EVO line which is slightly better than Bandai in details.

Dragon Momoko (Taiwan) make so much better model for their price, so good that it's rumored that they're actually Bandai's subsidiary to counterfeit the Chinese bootlegging.

And then there's McModel (China) who boast far greater detail than even Bandai's original kit. Unfortunately, they cost almost as much as a Real grade, so Bandai is better choice.
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Last edited by ZeroXSEED; 2013-11-27 at 22:29.
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Old 2013-11-27, 23:02   Link #32131
Aurelis
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Singapore
1/144 Hi-Nu was a fun Gundam to build. Note that only 2 of the funnels are actually "working" but I didn't mind as I hate working on funnels and that there's the existence of Gunpla Fighters' customized black and yellow Hi-Nu too.

I like my Hi-Nu but articulation isn't its best forte. What it did well is to be pretty and I really liked the fact that you don't need to put much effort into it as Bandai did most of the work, in terms of seamlines and color separation.
Images
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Old 2013-11-27, 23:39   Link #32132
Double_Edge
Cool Lander
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Hi guys, I just bought the MG Duel Assault and a HMM Fire Fox.

I'm going to attempt to do a legit job on both. my past models have only had panel lining and the painting of very small details. Absolutely nothing else. Now i want to do custom color schemes on Fire Fox because I do not like the standard and change all the dark blue parts on Duel to Purple and the assault shroud to black or dark grey, since I already have the NG 1/100.

But i want to clarify and make sure that my method is correct:

1: Tamiya Primer (I'm doing custom paint jobs for both)
2: Tamiya spray paint. Tamiya acrylic paint small details like thrusters, tubing, etc
3: Gloss finish spray
4: Panel line via wash. Decal application (waterslide and scratch on only)
5: Matte finish spray

Would that be correct? Also, what do you guys recommencement for topcoats? I was thinking to use Mr.Hobby Topcoat gundam or Testors Dullcote.

Would Tamiya TS-80 Flat clear be a topcoat? or is it just a regular paint?
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Old 2013-11-27, 23:59   Link #32133
Skye629
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_Edge View Post
Hi guys, I just bought the MG Duel Assault and a HMM Fire Fox.

I'm going to attempt to do a legit job on both. my past models have only had panel lining and the painting of very small details. Absolutely nothing else. Now i want to do custom color schemes on Fire Fox because I do not like the standard and change all the dark blue parts on Duel to Purple and the assault shroud to black or dark grey, since I already have the NG 1/100.

But i want to clarify and make sure that my method is correct:

1: Tamiya Primer (I'm doing custom paint jobs for both)
2: Tamiya spray paint. Tamiya acrylic paint small details like thrusters, tubing, etc
3: Gloss finish spray
4: Panel line via wash. Decal application (waterslide and scratch on only)
5: Matte finish spray

Would that be correct? Also, what do you guys recommencement for topcoats? I was thinking to use Mr.Hobby Topcoat gundam or Testors Dullcote.

Would Tamiya TS-80 Flat clear be a topcoat? or is it just a regular paint?
Those are the correct steps ^^, I will note that some people do sanding and getting rid of seamlines prior to priming

Both Mr.Hobby and Testor matte/flat coats are good choices, Testors tend to be cheaper and more available in the US, if thats where you live

Is the TS Flat in a spray can? If its not and in one of those smaller acrylic bottles, then you have to mix it with normal tamiya clear to use with an airbrush
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Old 2013-11-28, 00:24   Link #32134
Double_Edge
Cool Lander
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Thanks man!
I'll definitely sand the parts I clip off the runner but i think sanding the entire kit and getting rid of panel lines is a little too far out of my league.

EDIT: And would the Tamiya PS spray really damage my plastic models? I want to give the fire fox metallic purple accents but I have now learned that you are NOT supposed to use them for plastic kits, despite the salesman telling me that it should be fine. And the drive to the hobby store is very far.
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Old 2013-11-28, 02:00   Link #32135
Chiu_fan
Panzer Vor!
 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Inside a WWII German tank
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_Edge View Post
Thanks man!
I'll definitely sand the parts I clip off the runner but i think sanding the entire kit and getting rid of panel lines is a little too far out of my league.

EDIT: And would the Tamiya PS spray really damage my plastic models? I want to give the fire fox metallic purple accents but I have now learned that you are NOT supposed to use them for plastic kits, despite the salesman telling me that it should be fine. And the drive to the hobby store is very far.
The PS series of spray cans are primarily for their RC car kits and are not recommended for regular model kits.

What type of paint is the metallic purple you are using?

Correction:
Quote:
1: Tamiya Primer (I'm doing custom paint jobs for both)
2: Tamiya spray paint. Tamiya acrylic paint small details like thrusters, tubing, etc
3: Gloss finish spray
4: Decal application (waterslide and scratch on only) *I recommend using setting and softer solutions when applying decals
5: Gloss finish spray
6: Panel line via wash.
7: Matte finish spray
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Old 2013-11-28, 03:25   Link #32136
Double_Edge
Cool Lander
 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
The metallic purple I was going to use, along with the gunmetal for the frame is the PS type. I guess I'll have to go exchange them..
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Old 2013-11-28, 04:30   Link #32137
Appel
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroXSEED View Post
TT Hongli (China)

Their base paint slightly toxic, and their sticker is awfully bad. But their overall appearance is acceptable tradeoff, literally half price or less than that of bandai.

Daban is a branch with slightly better quality, but not worth the price. Except with EVO line which is slightly better than Bandai in details.

Dragon Momoko (Taiwan) make so much better model for their price, so good that it's rumored that they're actually Bandai's subsidiary to counterfeit the Chinese bootlegging.

And then there's McModel (China) who boast far greater detail than even Bandai's original kit. Unfortunately, they cost almost as much as a Real grade, so Bandai is better choice.
The PG Strike Freedom is from Daban. And so far I do think it's worth it, got the kit for about half the price of the original.
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Old 2013-11-28, 06:10   Link #32138
Obelisk ze Tormentor
Black Steel Knight
 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indonesia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skye629 View Post
Where did you guys get your MG Destiny Heine Ver.??? It's my most sought after kit atm, but I have not found any good/decent deals

The only place I have seen it is Ebay....and you know the sort of exclusive prices they have on there
Similar to Duotiga, I also bought mine from local online-store with a good deal. If your country didn't sell any gunpla, my advise is to buy it from Japan-based or Hong Kong-based stores if you can find and communicate with them. My friend told me that they offer nicer price compared to North American-based stores.

I have never import things myself as almost everything is available here in my country with various prices if you know where to look. Does HLJ have any exclusive kits?
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Old 2013-11-28, 06:21   Link #32139
Providenceangle
Senior Member
 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Canada
Age: 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_Edge View Post
Hi guys, I just bought the MG Duel Assault and a HMM Fire Fox.

I'm going to attempt to do a legit job on both. my past models have only had panel lining and the painting of very small details. Absolutely nothing else. Now i want to do custom color schemes on Fire Fox because I do not like the standard and change all the dark blue parts on Duel to Purple and the assault shroud to black or dark grey, since I already have the NG 1/100.

But i want to clarify and make sure that my method is correct:

1: Tamiya Primer (I'm doing custom paint jobs for both)
2: Tamiya spray paint. Tamiya acrylic paint small details like thrusters, tubing, etc
3: Gloss finish spray
4: Panel line via wash. Decal application (waterslide and scratch on only)
5: Matte finish spray

Would that be correct? Also, what do you guys recommencement for topcoats? I was thinking to use Mr.Hobby Topcoat gundam or Testors Dullcote.

Would Tamiya TS-80 Flat clear be a topcoat? or is it just a regular paint?
I'll chime in with a bit of advice. Make sure you take lots of time. If you want good results get some 400-600 grit sand paper and prep the surface. Spay your primer, check for imperfections, sand and spray more primer if needed. The smoother the primer surface the better the paint will look. Make sure to give the paint lots of time to dry. At least 48 hours. If they're acrylic paints give them 4-5 days... Otherwise they won't hold, even with primer. As for the PS sprays, so long as you've primed with a proper plastic primer first, it shouldn't cause an issue. Make sure you test on a inconspicuous piece of plastic first

Quote:
Originally Posted by Double_Edge View Post
Thanks man!
I'll definitely sand the parts I clip off the runner but i think sanding the entire kit and getting rid of panel lines is a little too far out of my league.

EDIT: And would the Tamiya PS spray really damage my plastic models? I want to give the fire fox metallic purple accents but I have now learned that you are NOT supposed to use them for plastic kits, despite the salesman telling me that it should be fine. And the drive to the hobby store is very far.
Do not flat coat metallic paint. You'll mute the paint! It will be flat like any other colour(it won't be metallic anymore). You should do semi or gloss clear coats over metallic paint.

Last edited by Providenceangle; 2013-11-28 at 07:24.
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Old 2013-11-28, 08:14   Link #32140
ZeroXSEED
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Inside your head
Basically if you want obscure unit, Asian market is your friend.

I just saw an old issue MG Rx-78, as in, the earliest produced, at less than 10 bucks.
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