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Old 2010-03-09, 20:10   Link #16841
kakakka
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Originally Posted by HiddenMessage View Post
I kinda felt sorry for that Wing model there....
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Old 2010-03-09, 21:44   Link #16842
HiddenMessage
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Aww.. Dont say that. My Wing Gundam is in one of the best poses from the show. Face flat on the ocean floor. :P
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Old 2010-03-09, 22:10   Link #16843
Dynamite
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Originally Posted by X207 View Post
thanks, what could be done about them to cover it up? i wouldn't mind getting a SD gunner zaku but im not sure if its easy to cover up.
Well generally speaking, you won't see the opening.
I have about 50 SD's now and I never had to actually cover them up.

But what you can do is buy some epoxy putty and patch it a bit if it really bothers you.
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Old 2010-03-09, 23:43   Link #16844
GrimmReaperNL
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that's a cool thing you did with your left-over runners on virtue.
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Old 2010-03-10, 00:13   Link #16845
HiddenMessage
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Thanks. But what i really wanted, was to melt the leftovers into a beam like shape. But the results were so awful, it just didn't work out. : \ So i shaved the longer pieces into smooth sticks to use as support beams for my heavier gundam (the Virtue).
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Old 2010-03-10, 00:41   Link #16846
Tormenk
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Originally Posted by SonicSP View Post
Which makes me wonder,they do give you and extra screw with those bases,and we have like 3 or 4 holders or something as I recall in regard to how we want to use to connect the base to the kit.

I wonder......is the screw given so we can screw the it in using one of the 4 holders given to us?Because I recall one of the kit holder is some sort of hole,but neve rpaid so much attention to it.I've only use the normal pointy stick that slots in the hole.
You'll have to drill a hole in the actual model you are using it for. Typically used for the heavier models like Gelgoog and Qubeley like vektar said. Though which size exactly is a question I would like to know myself.

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Originally Posted by GN0010 Nosferatu View Post
The color of Unicorn's beam sabers is getting a bit confusing.

First they're clear, then pink, now blue. Which is it?!
And later on there will be green beam sabers.

Just take the anime depiction as the standard to follow.
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Old 2010-03-10, 01:09   Link #16847
Rising Dragon
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Having started with Gundam Wing, I wouldn't mind green beam sabers.
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Old 2010-03-10, 04:31   Link #16848
helois
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the next step will be rainbow beam sabers...
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Old 2010-03-10, 07:23   Link #16849
duotiga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tormenk View Post

Just take the anime depiction as the standard to follow.
well...frm anime depiction the beam sabre is red
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Old 2010-03-10, 09:39   Link #16850
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Old 2010-03-10, 14:15   Link #16851
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I bought the Mega Bloks Zaku II S last night from a local store. It was too good to pass up!





Very surprised that it was as large as my PG Strike. ^^
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Old 2010-03-10, 18:56   Link #16852
X207
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Originally Posted by Dynamite View Post
Well generally speaking, you won't see the opening.
I have about 50 SD's now and I never had to actually cover them up.

But what you can do is buy some epoxy putty and patch it a bit if it really bothers you.
thanks dynamite, might you have a lunamaria zaku or blitz gundam SD format? i wouldnt mind getting both of them. the blitz wont be too hard but the colour of the zaku is hard to mix imo. i have the 2 red mr color that will do the trick but i'd have to order mr thinner and mr retarder from hobbywave. does anyone know how reliable hobby wave is at renewing paint supplies? is there a mr color product that retards the drying time and neutralises it to clean brushes?

lol im it seems i might be into the SD phase of models. im really tempted to get the 2 of them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HiddenMessage View Post
Thanks. But what i really wanted, was to melt the leftovers into a beam like shape. But the results were so awful, it just didn't work out. : \ So i shaved the longer pieces into smooth sticks to use as support beams for my heavier gundam (the Virtue).
thats a good trick, ive done something similar in the past also

its a homemade saber from a clear section of the 00 runner. the fact they didnt provide any really bugged me. so far i only made 1, i havent gotten around to finishing the other one but it took some time to complete it. i did manage to get a orange one done but its still 00s handle for the gaddess.
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Old 2010-03-10, 19:40   Link #16853
Sir Dearka
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Let me show off a bit

Just assembled the Cherudim:


With Dynames:



My Wing Zero:
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Old 2010-03-10, 21:07   Link #16854
Dynamite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helois View Post
the next step will be rainbow beam sabers...
I think this would interest you a lot, lot more

Quote:
Originally Posted by X207 View Post
thanks dynamite, might you have a lunamaria zaku or blitz gundam SD format? i wouldnt mind getting both of them. the blitz wont be too hard but the colour of the zaku is hard to mix imo. i have the 2 red mr color that will do the trick but i'd have to order mr thinner and mr retarder from hobbywave. does anyone know how reliable hobby wave is at renewing paint supplies? is there a mr color product that retards the drying time and neutralises it to clean brushes?

lol im it seems i might be into the SD phase of models. im really tempted to get the 2 of them.
I have them both in storage (since I messed them up and don't have time to finish...lol) but to my recollection, they both have opened "underhands".

But honestly, you won't ever see them unless you're posing them in a very specific way.

As to the Hobbywave part, I haven't bought paint from them but I have bought kits, and they're decently fast with all the popular lines. And seeing as they are one of the only America-based companies that still distributes Mr.Color, I'm assuming they restock on it decently-fast as well.

Also, its very, very much suggested that you purchase acrylic paints for your kits, especially if you are hand painting. Unless, of course, your "brush" is an airbrush. Then by all means use lacquer.
But in cases where you paint SDs (very detail specific) or simply hand painting, stick with acrylic.
Gunze Sangyo (company that makes Mr. Color) and Tamiya have great acrylics if you're wondering.
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Old 2010-03-10, 21:23   Link #16855
Ypocaramel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakubeX2 View Post
Does it matter when the Unicorn is designed by Katoki himself ?

If you ask me, the first Unicorn MG kit just added that "ver.Ka" as a sales pitch for a rushed problematic release to cash in with the release of the novels back in '07.
Which was my point, since I didn't see the difference. School's been keeping me busy, so I haven't had the chance to keep up with the news and reviews.
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Old 2010-03-10, 22:11   Link #16856
vektar
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I was home sick yesterday and so i wouldnt bore my self to death being home i spent the whole day building, painting, detailing, and clear coating MG F91 ^_^ i know its a pretty old kit but I've always wanted it and was putting off getting it for years. Its a really simple kit to build and looks awesome even for being so small and i heard some people complain about loose joints from the lack of polly caps that didnt factor into an issue for me. I fully spray paint every part before i build the kit off the runners as to limit the nub marks and so forth. anyways i think its is a great kit and would be good for people starting off on MG's. Sorry about the picture quality i dont have a digital camera only my iphone so my pics suck quality wise but the kit looks awesome in person, at least to me it does...lol.



Spoiler for More Pics:
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Old 2010-03-10, 22:25   Link #16857
X207
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite View Post
I think this would interest you a lot, lot more



I have them both in storage (since I messed them up and don't have time to finish...lol) but to my recollection, they both have opened "underhands".

But honestly, you won't ever see them unless you're posing them in a very specific way.

As to the Hobbywave part, I haven't bought paint from them but I have bought kits, and they're decently fast with all the popular lines. And seeing as they are one of the only America-based companies that still distributes Mr.Color, I'm assuming they restock on it decently-fast as well.

Also, its very, very much suggested that you purchase acrylic paints for your kits, especially if you are hand painting. Unless, of course, your "brush" is an airbrush. Then by all means use lacquer.
But in cases where you paint SDs (very detail specific) or simply hand painting, stick with acrylic.
Gunze Sangyo (company that makes Mr. Color) and Tamiya have great acrylics if you're wondering.
how hard were they paint if you conpared it to a FG blitz gundam ie all navy blue molded peices? theres a chance the open hands could show, if you got back 1-2 pages back i have a pic of my desk and shelf shown the models most will go on the shelf. though i want to get them more to complete the collection. it may not be a full collection as i dont plan to get any HG 1/144 of either.

ive tried acrylic b4, i cant get used to mixing the right ratio of paint and the liquid that sits in the bottle. so far the only acrylic i can use properly is the transparent blue ie 00 gundam gn sword and thats only bc the tint doesnt require much paint. im hopeless if the color has already settled at the bottom. atm i work better with enamel, mr color is less efficient bc i cant really save the brush from the paint.
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Old 2010-03-11, 00:05   Link #16858
Dynamite
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Originally Posted by X207 View Post
how hard were they paint if you conpared it to a FG blitz gundam ie all navy blue molded peices? theres a chance the open hands could show, if you got back 1-2 pages back i have a pic of my desk and shelf shown the models most will go on the shelf. though i want to get them more to complete the collection. it may not be a full collection as i dont plan to get any HG 1/144 of either.
I think all "modern" SDs are a lot easier than any FG to make look good.
For one, they actually have more details. But a lot of their parts are exaggerated, such as the torso, head, shoulders and feet are pretty big that you can really hit the details easily.

The main problem for what you're going to be doing is that the "holding hands", or the ones that are hollow on the bottom, usually only have a hole on the top and nothing in the middle.
In other words, if you fill the hole on the bottom, you take out the hole on the top too unless you somehow make a hole in the putty the leads to the bottom.

I know it sounds confusing.
So think of the hands like a cardboard box with a hole on the top and no bottom. If you fill the bottom all the way up to the top, you can no longer put anything into the hole.

So unless you make a hole in the putty, the hand is essentially useless unless the kit doesn't have accessories.

Quote:
ive tried acrylic b4, i cant get used to mixing the right ratio of paint and the liquid that sits in the bottle. so far the only acrylic i can use properly is the transparent blue ie 00 gundam gn sword and thats only bc the tint doesnt require much paint. im hopeless if the color has already settled at the bottom. atm i work better with enamel, mr color is less efficient bc i cant really save the brush from the paint.
I don't know if this is going to come out sounding condescending, but from the way I'm reading this, you're not using the paint right.

I think you didn't shake the bottle of paint so you just had the paint sitting on the bottom and has been using the oil on the top instead...

All acrylic paints are super dense and they come separated when first bought.
So if you see that the paint has two layers, that is normal. The top layer is oil and the bottom is the actual paint.

The first time you buy them, you should shake them WELL and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes so the air bubbles can go away.
After the first use/first shake, only use a toothpick/straw to stir it instead of shaking it so the paint and the oil mix.

Again, I don't know if this is the case. But that is most likely the reason you're having so much better luck with enamel since the liquid doesn't separate.

Also, the way you save the brushes with lacquer paint is using lacquer thinner. I'm sure you already know of this, though. Problem is, lacquer thinner KILLS brushes. Its incredibly toxic, just like the paints themselves, and practically eats the fibers in the brushes.
Oh, and lacquer thinner can clean enamel too.


Wow I type a lot...
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Old 2010-03-11, 00:15   Link #16859
X207
Gamyūsa
 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Montreal
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamite View Post
I think all "modern" SDs are a lot easier than any FG to make look good.
For one, they actually have more details. But a lot of their parts are exaggerated, such as the torso, head, shoulders and feet are pretty big that you can really hit the details easily.

The main problem for what you're going to be doing is that the "holding hands", or the ones that are hollow on the bottom, usually only have a hole on the top and nothing in the middle.
In other words, if you fill the hole on the bottom, you take out the hole on the top too unless you somehow make a hole in the putty the leads to the bottom.

I know it sounds confusing.
So think of the hands like a cardboard box with a hole on the top and no bottom. If you fill the bottom all the way up to the top, you can no longer put anything into the hole.

So unless you make a hole in the putty, the hand is essentially useless unless the kit doesn't have accessories.



I don't know if this is going to come out sounding condescending, but from the way I'm reading this, you're not using the paint right.

I think you didn't shake the bottle of paint so you just had the paint sitting on the bottom and has been using the oil on the top instead...

All acrylic paints are super dense and they come separated when first bought.
So if you see that the paint has two layers, that is normal. The top layer is oil and the bottom is the actual paint.

The first time you buy them, you should shake them WELL and let it sit for about 10-15 minutes so the air bubbles can go away.
After the first use/first shake, only use a toothpick/straw to stir it instead of shaking it so the paint and the oil mix.

Again, I don't know if this is the case. But that is most likely the reason you're having so much better luck with enamel since the liquid doesn't separate.

Also, the way you save the brushes with lacquer paint is using lacquer thinner. I'm sure you already know of this, though. Problem is, lacquer thinner KILLS brushes. Its incredibly toxic, just like the paints themselves, and practically eats the fibers in the brushes.
Oh, and lacquer thinner can clean enamel too.


Wow I type a lot...
thanks, whenever i do get them then i'll decide if i should fill the holes leaving room to hold the equipement.

you're right about me using acrylic, i know im doing something wrong in getting it prepared for painting. ive tried shaking it and stirring it, i probably didnt shake it enough to mix it up. how long should you shake them for? i know that enamel paints take a bit less time to be well shaken.
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Old 2010-03-11, 00:29   Link #16860
Dynamite
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Originally Posted by X207 View Post
thanks, whenever i do get them then i'll decide if i should fill the holes leaving room to hold the equipement.

you're right about me using acrylic, i know im doing something wrong in getting it prepared for painting. ive tried shaking it and stirring it, i probably didnt shake it enough to mix it up. how long should you shake them for? i know that enamel paints take a bit less time to be well shaken.
I usually just shake the hell out of it for about 15 seconds. I open it up and see if its a solid color. If so, then I let it sit for a bit until all the air bubbles have gone away.
Btw, air bubbles usually only form on very light colors, like white, but its better to be safe.
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