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Old 2010-04-17, 10:17   Link #17241
loon1688
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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HGUC S gundam

testing post photo....



wahaha... can liao...thanks...
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Old 2010-04-17, 18:05   Link #17242
fizzmaister
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Nice Sentinel Gundam.
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Old 2010-04-17, 19:54   Link #17243
RAVNEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duotiga View Post
thanks...i prefer the gnhw armaments for me .... already on deciding to get multiple arios to do arios archer gnhw/m & other forms
Ahh...that i would want to see. I like 00 model kit...there so much playability on it.

@loon1688

Nice HGUC S gundam work,that yellow vent on the face had to be coloured right..?
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Old 2010-04-17, 21:45   Link #17244
copperband
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Loon1688,

How did you colour the vents on the S gundam?
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Old 2010-04-18, 00:01   Link #17245
Deliverance
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Hey,is it possible to make those no grade gundam 1/144 kits look good, i dont think there are any HG 1/1/44 kits from wing is there? Besides the movie ones.
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Old 2010-04-18, 01:52   Link #17246
X207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deliverance View Post
Hey,is it possible to make those no grade gundam 1/144 kits look good, i dont think there are any HG 1/1/44 kits from wing is there? Besides the movie ones.
imo, you can make a NG kit look good. i have a NG blitz gundam and it looks pretty good, there are some shortcuts i took in painting so its not the neatest ie the purple. it just needs a good amount painting to do all the details. though is still wont solve the general lack of movement in the kits.
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Old 2010-04-18, 03:51   Link #17247
duotiga
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAVNEN View Post
Ahh...that i would want to see. I like 00 model kit...there so much playability on it.
gotta agree with you much more pose to do then seed mecha

boxart pose for coming astrea type f



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Old 2010-04-18, 05:16   Link #17248
RAVNEN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duotiga View Post
gotta agree with you much more pose to do then seed mecha

boxart pose for coming astrea type f



Well i do like Seed mecha like the HG Hyperion & the transformable HG Gaia AW. I just like Seed boxy-style gundam.

Oh my very awesome Astraea type-F,better wait for the I Gundam & get both of them in one purchase.XD I wonder if 1/100 Dynames beam pistol holster would fit on 1/100 Astraea knee hardpoint.
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Old 2010-04-18, 07:00   Link #17249
loon1688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copperband View Post
Loon1688,

How did you colour the vents on the S gundam?
yup must color... i just use gundam marker to color it......got a lot of parts need to color oso.... i use gundam marker to color all those parts.
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Old 2010-04-18, 13:56   Link #17250
SonicSP
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http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/iam-cyber...icle?mid=43271

Homeless posted this on Zook's forum, has this been posted here yet?

The boxart and one pic that duotiga posted is in this link but they are several other "official model pose" for the kit too.
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Old 2010-04-18, 16:18   Link #17251
Znozzy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAVNEN View Post
Well i do like Seed mecha like the HG Hyperion & the transformable HG Gaia AW. I just like Seed boxy-style gundam.

Oh my very awesome Astraea type-F,better wait for the I Gundam & get both of them in one purchase.XD I wonder if 1/100 Dynames beam pistol holster would fit on 1/100 Astraea knee hardpoint.
they do fit, a tad bit loose but they do fit, tried it as soon as i saw the announcement ;')


do anyone know if the 1/100 MG re-gz has any flaws? couldnt tell on dalong, if anyone has it, whats your score on it?
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Old 2010-04-18, 16:19   Link #17252
X207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loon1688 View Post
yup must color... i just use gundam marker to color it......got a lot of parts need to color oso.... i use gundam marker to color all those parts.
i really like the gundam markers though i dont go too crazy with them, i paint 90% and the rest is markers. they're so useful to touch up small areas where paint is missing. so far i find it works well on SD kits for those small details. my zaku is around 50% done, the weapons need priming and painting.

does anyone find the SD blitz gundam isnt the darkest shade of black? i think i'll paint or spray it black. are there any tips to painting beam sabers if the parts arent clear?
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Old 2010-04-18, 17:47   Link #17253
Like_Clockwork
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almost done with my Cheridum gnhw/r then start painting my rx-78-2 oyw and I just got my titans MK II from hwjapan the other day so time to start assembly also I really recommend hwjapan. their prices are amazing.
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Old 2010-04-19, 02:16   Link #17254
duotiga
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just got a wild idea of doing trans-am ver of the gnhw of the cherudim/arios/seravee.....possible with the trans-am ver as the base n transfer the parts over? =x
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Old 2010-04-19, 02:18   Link #17255
JC...
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Any tips for spray painting with cans? The paint was okay but the top coat came out all frosty, any ideas on what I was doing wrong? should I sand the frosty parts of and spray on the black again?
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Old 2010-04-19, 03:49   Link #17256
GameraBaenre
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What top coat are you using? If it's a flat coat, you sprayed too much and too close. One trick I like to do is to warm up the can in a cup of very hot water. I recommend spraying at least 6-8 inches away from the part. And when you spray, don't spray directly on the part when you first press down on the spray can. May light passes with the can across the part.

Clears are difficult to spray out of the cans in comparison to colored paints as you don't get to see the change in color on the parts. All you get to see is that the part get wet - so it's important to mist on the coats the let the part dry and see if you achieved the effect. If not, do another light pass, wait and check. After you do this often enough, you'll learn how many passes it takes to get the desired effect.

If the can starts to get cold, dunk it back in the hot water to warm it back up. This will help keep the paint particles smaller and you get a finer spray pattern and more consistency as the temperature of the can stays constant, if you keep dunking it to keep it at a constant temperature.
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Old 2010-04-19, 04:08   Link #17257
JC...
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GameraBaenre View Post
What top coat are you using? If it's a flat coat, you sprayed too much and too close. One trick I like to do is to warm up the can in a cup of very hot water. I recommend spraying at least 6-8 inches away from the part. And when you spray, don't spray directly on the part when you first press down on the spray can. May light passes with the can across the part.

Clears are difficult to spray out of the cans in comparison to colored paints as you don't get to see the change in color on the parts. All you get to see is that the part get wet - so it's important to mist on the coats the let the part dry and see if you achieved the effect. If not, do another light pass, wait and check. After you do this often enough, you'll learn how many passes it takes to get the desired effect.

If the can starts to get cold, dunk it back in the hot water to warm it back up. This will help keep the paint particles smaller and you get a finer spray pattern and more consistency as the temperature of the can stays constant, if you keep dunking it to keep it at a constant temperature.
Okay thanks for the great advice!!! I'll try again later, Is it okay If I just spray paint on top of the top coat?
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Old 2010-04-19, 04:21   Link #17258
GameraBaenre
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yep. Think of the clear coat as just another layer of paint. It's paint, just clear paint. If that makes any sense.
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Old 2010-04-19, 04:24   Link #17259
JC...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GameraBaenre View Post
yep. Think of the clear coat as just another layer of paint. It's paint, just clear paint. If that makes any sense.
Okay thanks
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Old 2010-04-19, 06:22   Link #17260
loon1688
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HGUC ZAKU II




HG 00 Gundam Seven Swords/G

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