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Old 2009-10-04, 18:21   Link #1381
Evil Rick
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You're probably making the border on just one of the frames, create a transparent layer on top of all the images and add the border on it.
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Old 2009-10-04, 19:14   Link #1382
Zwei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Rick View Post
You're probably making the border on just one of the frames, create a transparent layer on top of all the images and add the border on it.
Tried that one as well, it didn't work out as well though. The border just doesn't come out right, especially with the "Threshold" thing which doesn't appear at all.
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Old 2009-10-04, 20:03   Link #1383
felix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zwei View Post
Whenever I try to make a border out of an animated GIF, it never works...or to say it correctly, it works but turns out bad. Whenever I try to make a border out of a 100x100 single picture, it works fine, MODE: Threshold as always.

Whenever I try to make an animated GIF out of more than 1 picture, it never works and the "MODE: Threshold" in stroke never appears, anyone got an idea? T_T
You'd have to,
  1. tell us what you are using
  2. show us what you mean by "bad"
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Old 2009-10-04, 23:39   Link #1384
KiNA
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Post the one that works.. post the one that dont work. Here.
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Old 2009-10-05, 08:08   Link #1385
Zwei
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I'm using Photoshop CS3.

Good Border ->

Bad Border ->

I'm trying to do it like the first one, but it only works when I have one frame of .gif picture. It never works when I try .JPG picture nor an a .gif with more than one frame.
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Old 2009-10-05, 08:56   Link #1386
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Be sure to make the border on a new layer and move it to the top. Then enable it on the first frame so it will show on all other frames as well. Here's a sample of my old avy:


Layer window.


Animation window.

And you get a nice, clean border:

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Old 2009-10-05, 09:49   Link #1387
Zwei
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I already did that but its still the same.

I go to Edit > Stroke > Blending > Mode: ?

I used to use Threshold, but it just won't appear now that I'm trying an animated gif.
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Old 2009-10-05, 10:04   Link #1388
KiNA
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Check the frames.. sometimes the blending mode for certain frames are borked.. dont change the mode unless you sure that its the toppest layer and the first frame are selected.
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Old 2009-10-05, 10:55   Link #1389
Zwei
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Finally, it worked. Phew, that was kinda hard =) Thanks for everyone who tried to help.
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Old 2009-11-20, 15:53   Link #1390
Mi-Roo
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I use Photoshop Elements 4.0.
Could someone help me get round corners
to my signatures? I'm aware that you have
to duplicate the layers, but for some reason,
it wont let me. Perhaps I did something wrong?
I'm extremely new to this photoshop gig.
Could someone possibly dumb it down for me? >_<; [/stupid]
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Old 2009-11-20, 15:56   Link #1391
felix
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Is the name of the layer "Background" and in italics. If so double click it to turn it into a normal layer.
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Old 2009-11-20, 15:58   Link #1392
Mi-Roo
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Thank you very much! ^_________^
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Old 2009-12-07, 06:11   Link #1393
christianbelouve
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Can anyone show me how to make the fading or whitening effect in an animated gif?
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Old 2009-12-07, 07:10   Link #1394
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Could you show us what you mean?
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Old 2009-12-08, 08:34   Link #1395
felix
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Add a frame after the one you want to fade. Put a layer at the top of the stack and fill it with white (your new frame should now be all white). Tween the white layer and the one before it and you get your fade.
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Old 2009-12-30, 18:36   Link #1396
escimo
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Alternative Workflow Using Smart Objects and Partial Transparency
Applies at least to Photoshop CS3 and CS4


Here's an idea I nicked from my working methods with printed media. The idea doing the basic design of the sig in higher resolution than the final render. Why? It gives a whole lot of more room to maneuver in terms of tweaking the sig than making it in the final resolution. When you make a sig in say 400x150 pixels dimension how the this one turned out, you lose a lot of quality when you make adjustments to for example sizes or angles of the elements. Doing it this way allows you to retain far more detail and quality, because you're always scaling down when going to final size, never up. So you can for example retain high quality while saving the sig in multiple sizes.


Here's the end result. Obviously not Asuki safe since I got a bit carried away with transparencies.



First step:

Create larger image than the final size of the sig with the same proportions. In this case as I was making an image with dimensions of 400x150px, so I initially created an image with a size of 1600x600px. I recommend sizes with the side of each side multiplied by 2, 4, 8 or so on. This is purely due to how Photoshop is capable of scaling the preview image. In this case image zoomed out 25% gives me a fairly good idea how the sig is going to look in it's final size. If I would have used side dimensions 3 time larger than the final I would have had to use the zoom out of 33.3% with which the rendering quality of the preview frankly sucks.

Since I wanted to play around with transparencies and the method I use for those makes scaling them a bit tricky, I wanted to have small safety areas. So I placed guides on the edges of the image and then used Image -> Canvas size to re-size the sig to 1700x700px giving me extra 50px per side to play around with.

So you end up with something like this:
Spoiler for size:

Beyond that you design the sig pretty much as usual just in larger format. I'm skipping the whole design process since this tutorial isn't about that.
This is what I came up with:
Spoiler for size:

Now we get to partial transparency part.
There's actually very easy way to make transparencies to images with multiple layers using the "Knockout" and "Fill Opacity" options in Blending Options. (not in the way they were originally designed to be used but who cares) You could do this by using clipping masks or layer masks but I think this is way easier.
First you create a layer of the areas you want to make transparent and make it the topmost layer. Here represented by the bright red areas. The reason why you'd want to use that little extra space around the sig, the safety areas, is because when you resize the sig and you have a this transparency layer photoshop antialiases the outer edges as well and you end up with a little stroke around the edges of the image. Using safety areas moves this problem out of the visible area of the final sig.
Spoiler for size:

Then you just set the "Knockout" to deep and "Fill Opacity" to 0%. This works just fine as long as you don't have a locked Background layer, which you can't have in the first place if you intend on using transparency in the sig.
Spoiler for size:

Now you're done with the design.
And you should end up with something like this:
Spoiler for size:

Create the smart object.
Select all the layers and then select from the menu "Layer->Smart Objects->Convert to Smart Object". Once you're done with that you can start editing the smart object. You can do so Smart Object by double clicking on the Smart Object icon in the layer panel.
Spoiler for size:

In my case the Smart Object looks like this:
Spoiler for size:

You can think of Smart Objects being PSDs within PSD since they work in fact in the exact same way. You'll find all the original layers now here. Now you can go back to the actual image by closing the Smart Object the changes are applied if you save the changes upon closing.

Now you can resize the image to the final size. I first used "Canvas Size" to get rid of the safety zones, so I resized the canvas to 1600x600px and then used the "Image Size" in the same "Image" menu to resize the image to 400x150px.

Now if you open the Smart Object you'll find that it's still in the original resolution.
Naturally you can use multiple smart objects as well for even more control.

Now you can use the "Save for Web & Devices" just as you would with any sig.

Here's a little demo.
Here's what the image would look like if you made it in 400x150px to begin with and then decided to make it 600x225px instead.

Bad.

And here's the same thing done with Smart object method.

Much more like it. Well in this case you're not in fact resizing it from 400x150px to 600x225px but from 1600x600px to 600x225px so the result is pretty much given.

This is not all great, joyful and blissful though. It does add a little bit of time to the process but more importantly makes the PSDs HUGE.

Here's the 30Meg one I ended up with.

Edit: Almost forgot. If you add a stroke border you'll need to add that as a separate layer after resizing the sig to it's final size, otherwise Photoshop will antialias it and it will look crappy. And if you want to make it partially transparent as well you need to create the transparency layer as a separate smart object. When creating this you need to first convert it to smart object and then change the blending options and once again place it on top of the layers you want to add transparency to.
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Last edited by escimo; 2009-12-30 at 18:56.
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Old 2010-01-08, 05:24   Link #1397
katiemirmo
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A little help here please.
I followed the DirectShowSource thing and all but when I open the notepad file with VDub it says that
"aviSynth open failure
Script error: expected a, or
(C:\Documents and Settings\GERVACIOFamily\My Documents\Downloads\Video\video.avs, line 1, column 124)

What does that mean? And how can I open it in Vdub?
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Old 2010-01-08, 08:38   Link #1398
JRendell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katiemirmo View Post
A little help here please.
I followed the DirectShowSource thing and all but when I open the notepad file with VDub it says that
"aviSynth open failure
Script error: expected a, or
(C:\Documents and Settings\GERVACIOFamily\My Documents\Downloads\Video\video.avs, line 1, column 124)

What does that mean? And how can I open it in Vdub?
I'm confused as to where you're coming from Start from the beginning?
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Old 2010-01-08, 09:53   Link #1399
katiemirmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRendell View Post
I'm confused as to where you're coming from Start from the beginning?
uhm okay. O_O
I saved the DirectShowSource("The file location") in a notepad entitled video.avs
but when itcomes to Virtual Dub there seems to be an error.
The error is as listed above.
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Old 2010-01-22, 08:52   Link #1400
outcast_within
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Wow big informative thread here cool. I'm kinda half assed making avatars as well. It's kinda fun so i might want to learn to use less crude methods.

So far my methods consist of pressing ctrl or shift +s in vlc making screenshots
Than i put the into the animation wizzard of jasc animation shop.
<------ my best work
I crop the scene i want. I figure out a timing that doesn't feel very off. Every screen gets a timing of around 10/15ms.
And finally resize.

Biggest problem in this thing is the screenshotting with vlc isn't a very good fixed capture rate and also the half assed timing in animation shop with guessing how many ms per frame isn't the the best solution for making a fluid gif.

How many frames per second does a fluid gif has?
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