Quote:
|
Quote:
- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks. - Second, the snapbuild. - Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines. - Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything. - Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it. - Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything. - Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches. - Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done. I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty. Quote:
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above. - For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home. |
Quote:
:heh: only 1 of 4 built :eyespin: some RGs i have multiple sets also:heh: |
Quote:
As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi - I'm done with its head and torso, it looks so good just out of the box. :heh: Thanks once again, that was really useful. I'm really busy right now, hopefully I'll be able to find the time to make a trip to my hobby store this week or the next to pick up some topcoat. EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.) |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle. |
What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?
http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html |
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
But I will get to building them when I can, which is why I go for MG's only since they don't come out as much, thus reducing the odds of me overspending and overbuying...ultimately leading to a massive backlog. |
Quote:
TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake. |
Quote:
Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 – March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know? |
Quote:
Oh, also, can you post a more constructive or positive post in this thread? Almost all your posts here basically can be broken down into two patterns:
|
Don't feed the troll guys, you'll just encourage him to keep doing that.
Quote:
Anyway, new pics of HG G-Xiphos! :D Spoiler:
Hope the HG Genoace O-Custom rumour is true. These 2 are some of my favourite AGE kits, glad Bandai finally decided to release them. |
|
Quote:
Yes, you can topcoat the entire kit after assembly. Just make sure you cover everything and it's even. Avoid topcoating the clear parts. They don't have the same look when you topcoat then. |
I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness. So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them? |
Quote:
|
Quote:
For earlier topics: Whoa how come some of you guys use such rough grits? At MOST I use 600, thats when sanding down a big nub Im too afraid to cut with nippers or my hobby knife. From there (Or after I cut using aforementioned tools) I go with 1000 to 1500 and sometimes 2000, which takes some care because you may overpolish the part resulting in a shinier glossier finish (for topcoaters this wont matter too much) |
Quote:
|
Quote:
If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed. :) |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Quote:
But from descriptions this sound most likely, rough transfers are ruled out since they're more distinct Also Bandai does not do waterslides as often as they used to An easy way to confirm this is angle the page of decals to a good light source and see if you can make out any borders around the markings |
There are borders around the markings. They were left behind when the decals detached after immersion.
They're definitely not peel offs because that model kit had a seperate sheet of peel offs. From what I read, dry transfers don't have borders, so that sheet shouldn't be it. |
Quote:
|
Hot water? I used cool water. Maybe that's why it didn't work.
How hot is hot enough? I'll try with my shower heater then move on to a boiler if neccessary. |
Quote:
It doesn't have to be boiling water. Water from shower-heater is enough. ;) |
I'm sorry to report that did not work. While hot water made the decal detach faster, it still pulled a layer of the backing along with it and still had no adhesiveness after the backing was forcibly removed.
As I said before these are unlike the water slide decal I've seen before. Those would fall apart if I rubbed them between my fingers. These are thick, I rubbed them to remove the backing and the decal itself was intact. Any other suggestions? |
Amm, has anyone bought the decals for HG Qan[T]'s Full Saber? It ain't exactly decals, I don't even know how to call it. But it's a peel-off that I thought was a water slide. I actually went and soak it in water. It attached itself to its backing paper. I effed up, LOL!
It doesn't have a border, you have to cut it manually. According to the magazine, it shows that you actually need water? Maybe to make it more adhesive? Not sure though since it's in Japanese. |
I just tried that! It's a peel off like you said, I don't believe this!
Well, I can finish my model now, thanks! |
Quote:
|
So, it's a peel-off after all, huh. Should've stay on my first guess ^^.
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
http://www.abload.de/img/dsc_2319z1qq6.jpg
DSLRs are SO much fun to play with^^ |
That looks quite dramatic ^^.
|
Why is it that Wing Gundam Zero (TV) never gets anything? O_o
|
Spoiler for SAZABI Ver Ka:
Hey Bandai, such a tease XD |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
MG Strike Rouge Remastered and MG Sazabi ver Ka please :) |
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:53. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.