Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4497547)

Just a warning though, I started out as a straight build guy too. I have bought the polishing compound and has a wide range of sand papers. It worked WELL, I even think that the polishing compound was unnecessary. It's currently stocked for 3 years now and never had an opportunity of using it again. After doing so, I went on and try topcoating. I don't want my kits to get scratches and everything so topcoating it made sense. Tried it and next thing I know, I'm already doing some minor mods, even tried doing MG Justice myself but hasn't finished it for more than a year now. Point is, it's fun. Don't limit yourself, not unless you don't really have the time. ENJOY airbrushing (I don't have one, LOL!)

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498566)

Anyway, some questions about topcoating - do I do it before/after I build, and how do I go about doing it? Spraying? With a paintbrush? !

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498566)

Also, if I want to say paint/sand/panel line (say I missed a spot) after topcoating, is it still possible? Thanks!

Originally Posted by Bonta Kun (Post 4498250)

....I think you need to go see someone about that:uhoh::heh:

Hope you enjoy building them at least!:D

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4498598)

If you're going to topcoat the kit without removing seamlines and you'll just remove the nubmarks, I can recommend doing the ff:

- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks.
- Second, the snapbuild.
- Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines.
- Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything.
- Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it.
- Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything.
- Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches.
- Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty.



- Painting is ok, it will cover up the tocpoat. Better if you strip the paint but I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning to.
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above.
- For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home.

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)

I'm assuming a spray is used?

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)

Also, is there a way to remove the topcoat?

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)

As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi.

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)

EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.)

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4498740)

What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4497939)

Instead of thinking too much of what kits to come, asking others about it, and putting on your wishlist again and again and again, why not enjoy what we already get and do something productive like, say, building your backlog of kits. :cool:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4498793)

Let me repeat myself from one page ago:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4498740)

What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html

Originally Posted by FalsePrime (Post 4499130)

Given how amazing the first four months are for MG's, no need for a wishlist right now really.

TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake.

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4499202)

Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 – March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know?

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4498674)

Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle.

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4499263)

Wow, those are some tough grits - topcoat smoothens out any rough marks made during sanding, am I right? Also, can I just topcoat the entire kit after assembly?

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4499772)

I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4499772)

I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?

Originally Posted by Skye629 (Post 4500538)

Whats the color of the paper backing, and what year was it made? Thats usually the best indication of what you are handling

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500641)

The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4500649)

That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed. :)