makes me wonder on why they haven't made the full-scale Phoenix Gundam yet...?
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Or the Mark V( or is it IV?). Sentinel machines look awesome.
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http://www.1999.co.jp/itbig01/10013949p.jpg The Phoenix....doesn't look as good in real scale. |
Its weird, but there are alot of mecha that looks much more badass in SD than real scale. Which is why people shouldn't hate SD.
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but unfortunately something looks a bit off in the design, which i don't like it & i hope they will fix that problem later... btw, thanks for the pics |
Hello. I recently picked up this hobby after a vacation to Japan by buying the 1/100 Designer's Color version of 00 Raiser. I ended up not starting on the 00 Raiser but on the other Gundam 00 models as I felt that I did not want to mess the DCVersion up. (OCD, maybe... :x ) All the other models were 1/100 as well and I did take some pictures of the finished products that I will upload whenever I can. I read through a decent amount of this thread but couldn't quite get through the 700+ pages. I did come up with a few questions concerning a few things and hope I don't bother anyone with them. Anyway, here goes.
What is the differences between the 1/100 and 1/144 other than the size? From what I've read it seems the fuss is all over the 1/144... I personally like the 1/100 for reasons yet unexplained. I also feel that I fall under the rather casual portion of model building as I can't commit to the whole painting/airbrushing just yet. I have had people tell me that the models that have been released recently do not really need such touch-ups and I must agree as I feel the models I have built look rather decent without them. This is, of course, dragged through the mud when I see pictures like the Exia a few pages back and the Reborn. A part of me really do want them to look that great but I must wonder if all of you feel different. Another question I'd like to ask before this gets too long is the aspect of panel lining. I have done panel lining on the models I have built and feel they add to the look. One problem I have though are the small crevices on the head parts and various other places on the model. I have the marker tip either start to deteriorate or provide too much ink than necessary and then have it all disappear when I try to erase them or just not have it look the way I want it too. I was wondering if any of you veterans can provide a novice like myself on how to do it efficiently. I know this was a wall of text and I apologize but I feel that this pick-up is far too enjoyable to not put effort into. I thank you ahead of time! :) |
1/100 = no waist joint for one
only have the 1/144, so I can't say much |
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in regards to difference of 1/100 and 1/144 HG, there really ain't too much of a difference, ppl prefer the HG because it's smaller (so they can fit more on their shelves) and it's cheaper as well. However the 1/100 (which i personally prefer) has more details and gimmicks compared to HG (i.e. Seravee). So it's really up to you, do you want to fork out more money for a larger kit? In regards to painting, airbrushing is definitely the way to go but can be quite expensive as you have to buy a compressor which costs hundreds of dollars as well as a airbrushing kit. It also depends on the type of gundam you are getting, for example if you buy the top of the line 1/100 MG gundams, you might want to put some more effort into it as it would look superb once its painted. I personally buy spray paints as its cheaper and easier to use. check out my painted MG models of Hi-nu and strike freedom: http://img32.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00286a.jpg http://img33.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00016hzy.jpg for panel lining, i asked this question a few pages back, theres not so many tips for it. i recommend getting the Gundam Marker GM01 (fine tip). It's especially for gundam models. using either the corner of a plain rubber or buying the Gundam Marker eraser pen GM300 would make ur life a bit easier. Just follow the lines and do it slowly, dont rush it and rub out any inconsistencies the moment they appear. Hope this helps!!! |
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Just out of curiousity, how big are the 1/60? |
Speaking of 1/60s. How good is the 1/60 Exia? Saw that at an affordable price at local store. Comments?
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Articulation wise, its less than the NG 1/100 Exia and that it can barely hold the GN Sword up... Otherwise, if you just want it for the size and to display it standing there amongst your other kits, it'll look great just standing there looming over the "small fries". XD |
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But otherwise using a spray unit is much better than brush, my unit is a Tamiya basic compressor which I was lucky to buy second hand!! Just take your time and practice heaps on older models or scrap plastic. Good luck |
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http://www.sakuraofamerica.com/ There could be a Asia plant but i didn't dig that far. |
MG Exia Ignition review is up at Dalong [Not sure whether I'm just slow and its been posted before] ,anybody knows what he is saying generally about it?
http://www.dalong.net/review/mg/m122i/m122i_p.htm As much as I adore Exia Repair and wish for a HG version,I'm kinda liking the normal MG Exia more for some reason,especially in this link.Must be the platinum blades..... Off Current Topic: Anybody know the "recommended" red [I'm guessing the left top-most refers to the main body red color] paint mix for the HG Arche?I'm trying to spaypaint mine,but I can't understand the color recommendation in the manual.Kinda curios whats the pink one is for too. http://www.dalong.net/review/00/0h43/p/0h43_m0004.JPG"]http://www.dalong.net/review/00/0h43/p/0h43_m0004.JPG |
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Nice design, insane part seperation, not much detail on the internal frame, weak ankles, and loose GN drive. The last one might just be an isolated case(GN drive). Inevitably as with all chromed parts, removing the nubs will leave a mark no matter how you go about it. |
If I maybe so curious to ask....what exactly is the appeal with SD Gundam designs? :confused:
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What he said. |
Exactly. So far I only have 00 as the only SD Gundam. But I think I will get more now
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hey guys, i'm interested in buying the 1/100 MG Unicorn Titanium, just wondering if anyone has the kit or knows anything about the kit (i.e. if it has any faults or stuff like that). i went on to the Dalong website but since its korean i couldnt make out any of its comments.
if anyone can provide any comments on this it would be much appreciated!!! |
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As you can see from Dalong's photo, there are many sprue cutting points that will show up as black, since this one did not have under-gate molding like MG/HGUC Hyakushiki. This review from Hong Kong have made effort to hide the exposed sprue points: http://www.toysdaily.com/discuz/view...e=1#pid3275611 He say the color does look really nice and shinny like the promo pics, but fixing it is a major pain in the ass since it is hard to match the color and there are like a hundred of points to fix. You cannot sand it since it will just make the black area larger. Decal will help hide some of the painted color mismatch. He also found that it is difficult to transform back into unicorn mode since the pieces are thicker due to the titanium coating. You will risk damaging the titanium coating by forcing a transformation. He also have standard pose limit complains of the MG unicorn. P.S. www.hwjapan.com also have 30% off of most gunpla, from BB to PG this week. |
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http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5209/1249651319256.jpg It might be a bit smaller at 1/144 compare to the MG, but at least it still retain the transformation gimmick via part swapping and A LOT more poseable. The only downside is it's apparent pricing at 9800 yen....costing a wee pit more than the Titanium MG. |
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also i dont really understand chinese, so can you pls outline the items (the website you mentioned) that they used to cover up the marks and how its applied? many thanks! Also i dont really want the HCM pro cos i want to build it myself, and a 1/144 model for over 9000 yen is ridiculous |
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Apparently, this release of the Super HCM-Pro Unicorn dashes any hope of a HGUC Unicorn in the near future given it's 1/144 size status. |
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He first used Gundam Marker white and Gundam Marker silver to cover the black area, depends if the surrounding area appears white or silver. After it dried, he added a layer of thinned "pure pearl" nail cosmetic paint. On he also spray painted un-coated dark gray pieces with gun metal dark gray. For the HCM-pro, on top of high price I also worry about how robust the product will be, and how many part swapping will be needed. As for the MG, with the anime coming I am sure Bandai will release a final version Spoiler:
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thanks for the tips guys
so final comment, what do you guys recommend? should i: a) get the damn titanium unicorn gundam and hopefully the sprue marks wont be that obvious b) get the regular unicorn (maybe spraypaint it silver lol?) c) wait for a better unicorn MG (as mentioned by cf18... although i'm not sure if i like the green colour scheme) the reason why i want to buy it now is because i dont think i'll ever see the titanium version being discounted that heavily in my lifetime again and also since i live in australia, the exchange rate has become very favourable lately... |
If Bandai will release the FA Unicorn, I'd like something like remale skeletal structure, especially for the legs and pack.
MG Unicorn may looks good outside, but exclude its transformation, it's nothing much impressive to me. How come the main villain Sinanju got good treatment to MG in every way, while Unicorn, as the main hero's Gundam, not come as good as quarter of Sinanju >.< Even for beam saber so far, Sinanju got the best decoration... |
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anyone shopped at hobby search before? 1999.co.jp? I ordered something from them and this appeared on my credit card:
Spoiler for pic:
Is this normal? |
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seriously... add more bucks and you will get a PG or 1/60 of Macross Chogokin. and i think many people prefer Destroy mode than anything else. But that SHCM Pro still tempting for mecha action figure lover Quote:
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