I was wondering how easy it is to jump into the world of resin models. I've really been wanting to get something from FSS. I'm pretty accustomed to gunpla by now and I want to eventually (in the near future) take a try at resin models. Also I saw how others were talking about the ease of using lacquer and what exactly makes them easier to use? sorry to sound like a noob haha
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- Mold lines are more prominent in resin kits than in bandai plastic. - Resin is much softer than bandai plastic, so some care in sanding is needed - Resin needs to be primed - Since most resin parts are solid pieces, they need to be pinned to help strengthen joints. - resin kits are mostly static pose kits, and for some that are moveable, it's best to find a pose and fix pose it. - resin kits need to be washed, much more so than plastic kits as mold release agents that are part of the production process for resin kits will keep primers and paints from sticking to the surface. - epoxy glues are the best glues to use for strength - you will be very familiar with putty as resin kits sometimes have pin holes that need to be filled, or areas where two parts meet need putty to hide seams. But for all intents and purposes,if you build and paint plastic gundam models, it's not difficult at all to move into resins. As for lacquer's ease of use. Personally, I find that the tolerances for thinning is not as precise as it is for acrylics. When spraying the paints, I have found that lacquers stick better, and I can get effects with heavier spray patterns to create a wet look that if I tried with acrylics, would end up with a pool of paint. The cure time is also something I like for lacquers as they will cure much faster than acrylics. With acrylics, I would have to wait a full week to two for a good cure - when with lacquers, I can wait a day or two. This goes into how delicate the paint is over the parts during the cure times. I can take my fingernail and run it lightly across the surface of a part painted with lacquers that have cured for a day and nothing will happen; but trying this with acrylics that have been cured for a day or even two, the paint will come right off. Most of my friends who have been hard core acrylic fans, that have tried using lacquers, switched almost immediately. It's one of those things that you need to personally experience. Some folks whom have tried lacquers don't like it and stick with acrylics. It just boils down to a matter of preference and what you personally find easier to use and such. Hopefully that gives some insight into lacquers. Granted they are not as easy to find as acrylics; but for my time and money, they are totally worth it :D |
Thanks for all the help, I've seen your stuff and I'm very impressed so it's nice to get insight from someone with as much skill as you. I've definitely wanted to use lacquers, but no where near me sells more than tamiya and testors acrylic and model masters enamel. I think I'm gonna try my hand with some lacquers next time I pick up a kit online. Thanks again!
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PEACE |
Word of advice for anyone wanting to buy the Robot Damashii Seravee Gundam.
.... GET IT. |
@ Mr Chow, thanks bro...but this aint my PG...money is also tight.hihi...those are just commission works.:D
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an update on the models atm
got the kit 2 days ago but the yellow paint on the cannon didnt turn out as i liked, got the correct yellow paint for the cannon today and painted it. the gaddessa atm is mostly in the box aside from the shoulder armor, leg pieces and escape pod. is there anything i can to make the cannon perfectly level when stowed away? to me the pc11 is too weak or the mounting point isnt balanced on the cannon what else can you do to take up the slack in the small swivel joint for the GN cannon aside from glue or paint? the joint near the side handle was too tight and it was separating the gun a bit. i filed off the edge so it stopped that, now its a bit loose, i put some humbol matt varnish hoping it would take up some slack. so farits working well but im not sure how long until the paint wears out enough to loosen the fit. http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6574/img4451v.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/636/img4447aw.jpg http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/2496/img4457c.jpg |
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The Garazzo in Gaddess colors is so ironic since Anew was originally supposed to pilot a Garazzo. :heh:
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where did you get that from? personally i like that she didnt get a garrazzo because there were already 2 garrazzo pilots to start with. hilling care upgraded to a garrazzo but i usually count the last MS the pilot is using. though for some reason the gaddess fits anew returner's personality more. she's not overly aggressive nor one to carry the heavy weaponry so the gaddess weapons are a balance between the 2 even if imo the gaddess is the weaker one of the 3 MS. |
I gotta say, I love the Garazzo in the Gaddess colors. Good work! :D
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btw, has anyone ever used the 40 degree stand included with gaddessa, garrazzo or gaddess? i dont see much prupose in it aside from letting you pose it facing up above it.q |
Just a quick little poll/question thing.
So how many of you guys use the eye stickers from the kits? Or do you use them on certain grades or certain situations? |
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Just paint it with a 00 sized brush or even a wooden toothpick bro. :D
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Nice one, X207. Though I'd prefer the Gartazzo's horns to remain blue... However, I love your Gaddess(a) with cannon!
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Nice clean build X207. I assume you had your flaws like everyone else but nice work on it to hide them. :) Keep up the good work.
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i paint the eye's as well.
first i make the entire eye area black with my black gundam marker then, when it's dry, i scratch the paint off the eyes and make 'm metallic green with my metallic green gundam marker. Or yellow (or even pink for the mono-eyes) if it's one of the other universes |
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