Kitbash Kyros-Dynames-Reborn! Now! :-D

I try glue builders parts to delta kai and it is a success..

Soon another "glue-session"(it smell very badly the plastic glue.. :-\ ) then i'll upload photos.. then rathrr than buy delta plus for the second rifle,i'll try resin copy..
Also photos.. :-)

So the SDs I have now..

SD Exia
SD 00 Raiser x2 --> Got the 2nd for Condenser parts that come with SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 Qan[t]
SD 00 7 Sword G
SD God
SD Shining
SD Devil
SD Wing EW
SD Wing Zero Custom

What order should I do unboxings & reviews for on my blog?

Where did you guys get your MG Destiny Heine Ver.??? It's my most sought after kit atm, but I have not found any good/decent deals

The only place I have seen it is Ebay....and you know the sort of exclusive prices they have on there





Any order, cuz none of us here are going to be watching your videos anyways?

That's... expensive

I think it's Nu Gundam that make up most of the cost, but still...

I got it from my local hobby shop for the MG Heine ver

I think I don't have much of a choice since HG Hi-Nu is at $80 atm (and that's the cheapest I could get after a lot of viewing in my country's stores), still getting 3 kits for the price of one (even if two are bootlegs) is better than nothing.

AH, then you should get it

They have arrived!

Will update more as I build:

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Well from the spray paint that you used, it looks pretty good. I'm surprised cause it looks like you took a airbrush to it. :)

This bootleg Strike Freedom, who makes it? Cause I've been seeing some good overall details from bootlegs. I wouldn't mind buying one but not a PG, Is there a site that you went to? If so just Private message me it. Thanks and Cheers!!!

One night I was on youtube looking at reviews. I came across the RX-78 OYW version and I have this version myself but I have not built it yet. So I started watching it and I was getting a bit turn off on how this OYW version is.. So the next day I called up a friend and I told him that I'm not going to build the OYW version cause of how much more work you had to do it, I'll admit I am being lazy on this cause normally I would just paint the parts or do it up.. But I know how the 3.0 is and so I told him to sell me his and he did.. $40 bucks and a brand new kit.. and updated can't go wrong.

Just thought I would share this story.. Anyways I'm looking forward to building the 3.0 and thanks for sharing your pic and your feedback.

TT Hongli (China)

Their base paint slightly toxic, and their sticker is awfully bad. But their overall appearance is acceptable tradeoff, literally half price or less than that of bandai.

Daban is a branch with slightly better quality, but not worth the price. Except with EVO line which is slightly better than Bandai in details.

Dragon Momoko (Taiwan) make so much better model for their price, so good that it's rumored that they're actually Bandai's subsidiary to counterfeit the Chinese bootlegging.

And then there's McModel (China) who boast far greater detail than even Bandai's original kit. Unfortunately, they cost almost as much as a Real grade, so Bandai is better choice.

1/144 Hi-Nu was a fun Gundam to build. Note that only 2 of the funnels are actually "working" but I didn't mind as I hate working on funnels and that there's the existence of Gunpla Fighters' customized black and yellow Hi-Nu too.

I like my Hi-Nu but articulation isn't its best forte. What it did well is to be pretty and I really liked the fact that you don't need to put much effort into it as Bandai did most of the work, in terms of seamlines and color separation.
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Hi guys, I just bought the MG Duel Assault and a HMM Fire Fox.

I'm going to attempt to do a legit job on both. my past models have only had panel lining and the painting of very small details. Absolutely nothing else. Now i want to do custom color schemes on Fire Fox because I do not like the standard and change all the dark blue parts on Duel to Purple and the assault shroud to black or dark grey, since I already have the NG 1/100.

But i want to clarify and make sure that my method is correct:

1: Tamiya Primer (I'm doing custom paint jobs for both)
2: Tamiya spray paint. Tamiya acrylic paint small details like thrusters, tubing, etc
3: Gloss finish spray
4: Panel line via wash. Decal application (waterslide and scratch on only)
5: Matte finish spray

Would that be correct? Also, what do you guys recommencement for topcoats? I was thinking to use Mr.Hobby Topcoat gundam or Testors Dullcote.

Would Tamiya TS-80 Flat clear be a topcoat? or is it just a regular paint?

Those are the correct steps ^^, I will note that some people do sanding and getting rid of seamlines prior to priming

Both Mr.Hobby and Testor matte/flat coats are good choices, Testors tend to be cheaper and more available in the US, if thats where you live

Is the TS Flat in a spray can? If its not and in one of those smaller acrylic bottles, then you have to mix it with normal tamiya clear to use with an airbrush

Thanks man!
I'll definitely sand the parts I clip off the runner but i think sanding the entire kit and getting rid of panel lines is a little too far out of my league. :heh:

EDIT: And would the Tamiya PS spray really damage my plastic models? I want to give the fire fox metallic purple accents but I have now learned that you are NOT supposed to use them for plastic kits, despite the salesman telling me that it should be fine. And the drive to the hobby store is very far.

The PS series of spray cans are primarily for their RC car kits and are not recommended for regular model kits.

What type of paint is the metallic purple you are using?

Correction:

The metallic purple I was going to use, along with the gunmetal for the frame is the PS type. I guess I'll have to go exchange them..

The PG Strike Freedom is from Daban. And so far I do think it's worth it, got the kit for about half the price of the original.

Similar to Duotiga, I also bought mine from local online-store with a good deal. If your country didn't sell any gunpla, my advise is to buy it from Japan-based or Hong Kong-based stores if you can find and communicate with them. My friend told me that they offer nicer price compared to North American-based stores.

I have never import things myself as almost everything is available here in my country with various prices if you know where to look. Does HLJ have any exclusive kits?

I'll chime in with a bit of advice. Make sure you take lots of time. If you want good results get some 400-600 grit sand paper and prep the surface. Spay your primer, check for imperfections, sand and spray more primer if needed. The smoother the primer surface the better the paint will look. Make sure to give the paint lots of time to dry. At least 48 hours. If they're acrylic paints give them 4-5 days... Otherwise they won't hold, even with primer. As for the PS sprays, so long as you've primed with a proper plastic primer first, it shouldn't cause an issue. Make sure you test on a inconspicuous piece of plastic first ;)

Do not flat coat metallic paint. You'll mute the paint! It will be flat like any other colour(it won't be metallic anymore). You should do semi or gloss clear coats over metallic paint.

Basically if you want obscure unit, Asian market is your friend.

I just saw an old issue MG Rx-78, as in, the earliest produced, at less than 10 bucks.

If these MG 2.0/RMs got released, what would you change?

Gundam Seed
ZGMF-X10A Freedom Gundam RM Ver.

Gundam Seed Destiny
ZGMF-X19A ∞ Justice Gundam RM Ver.
ZGMF-X20A Strike Freedom Gundam RM Ver.
ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam RM Ver.
ZGMF-X56S/α Force Impulse Gundam RM Ver.
ZGMF-X56S/β Sword Impulse Gundam RM Ver.

Gundam Wing
XXXG-00W0 Wing Gundam Zero RM (EW Ver.)
XXXG-01W Wing Gundam RM (EW Ver.)

Finished the waist and torso of the Strike Freedom yesterday.
And guess what? When I wanted to connect the upper torso to the lower torso the joint completely broke! And by broke I mean it got freaking annihilated... The hole that held one of the polycaps shatterd and part of the connector joint on the opposite side of the joint just snapped off.
I guess knock off model plus poorly designed joint by Bandai just doesn't mix well.
So I just dumped in a shitload of super glue. It's not like I'm gonna miss that joint, I didn't plan to use it at all. I prefer a solid connection in the waist area over a floppy joint.

Also, the legs pop off easily. Dumped in some clear nail polish, that should fix the issue.

And you're surprised?

Gaaaahh you guys are so lucky!

I live in the US, and I have never seen an online exclusive before at my LHS

The only online asian base exclusive store I know is Gentei, but they only stock the more recent exclusives

I dont know any other trusty sites which stock old exlusives :(

You forgot duct tape on top of that super glue. MacGyver would be proud. :)

Just a reminder that Black Friday savings are included on preorders at HLJ. The MG Sazabi Ver. Ka is now 6600 Yen. I am going to take advantage of this.. hope it isn't to late for the pre-order.

I think I know what model I'll buy next

Pscyho, fucking, Gundam.

Same size as PG, complexity less than that of MG.

GENIUS!

HLJ?

Assuming their stock still available, you might find such kit.

I want to try that if the nail polish fails. That stuff is easy to remove if it fails and I got great results with it with MG Exia.

That Bandai made a joint that is prone to failing that easily? Yes.
That the joint breaks on a knock off that otherwise has no quality problems at all? Yes.

Regarding old exclusives/limited items, don't worry. They sound like endangered species but Bandai actually still reprint them. For example, recently my local seller got a restock of the old MG GP01, GP02, & GP03 metallic coating ver. coz Bandai just reprinted & re-released them. So, don't worry, MG Destiny Heine will get made again. You just have to wait, and don't bite the bait of those who offer it with unreasonable price. "Twice the price of the normal ones (exclude shipping & delivery fee)" is the highest you can charge for exclusive/limited items which aren't metallic coating, titanium finish, clear/sparkly parts or those with additional content (like Linkin Park's HG GP01 or TM Revolutions' HG Destiny Heine complete with CDs and whatnot).

Now, if you can properly communicate with Gentei (as in by phones, emails, etc), you can tell them that you really want MG Destiny Heine thus asking them to put your name (and contact numbers) on their list of customers who will receive the kit once it got restocked. A good hobby store usually willing to accept that kind of request as it will only bring them more profit & loyal buyers.

Btw, since you live in the US, are stores like GG Infinite and the likes never had any restock of old Limited kit (for example, MG Zeta Karaba)?

founded on tumblr... i'm almost died.. XD XD XD XD XD

http://distilleryimage3.ak.instagram...4d2f8dd0_8.jpg

I'm not usually interested in online exclusive unless it's something nice like the Zeta Unit 3. But the new Byarlant Custom Unit 02 and the Bande Dessini Version made me pre-order straight from Samuel Decal. The price is also comparative to the P Bandai HK store, so that's not too bad. There's something about the colour scheme and backpack guns which appeals to me more than the normal Byarlant.

Silver Bullet included GM Head was a nice touch but it's possibility of Ribbon Striker that is surprising on my radar. I'd love to get one for Nobel Gundam.

And HG Psyco Gundam is a recommended buy! It's big and fun to put together for a HG kit. The only downside is the rubber V-fin.

WUT

Well, with 5000 yen that still more than generous thing to offer.

I was bummed too since that made regular painting almost impossible. But I understand since it's safer for the MA mode transformation. I glued that transformation off but the large seamline was too much for my low skills to handle nicely.

The solid finished kit can easily hold other HGUC kits. Infact, once completed, it looked more cute than intimidating.

> Cute
> Not intimidating

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Man I want it so bad...

Welp, I just panicked a little.
Seems like instead of giving you a D1 and a D2 runner for the PG Strike Freedom Daban just gives you 2 D1 runners and they just cut off the pieces you don't need. When I was building the arms I thought 4 pieces were missing because of that :P
I wanted to finish the head, arms and shoulders today. Now I just finished the head and half an arm XP

As crazy as it sounds, I've already started purchasing and paying off for GunPla that is coming in 2014... Already I can tell it's going to be expensive, but with my wish list of MGs being fulfilled bit by bit, I can already tell that my GunPla involvement will be over soon.

Ok so I now have some new questions about painting. I literally no zilch about it. How would I go about safely layering paints on top of each other without them eating at each other or the plastic?

I decided to just purchase an airbrush.

I will mainly be using Tamiya ACRYLICS for painting. what kind of thinner should I use? Just the tamiya brand? And is Acrylics ideal for airbrushing once it is thinned?

What type of primer should I use that I can put acrylics on top of?

And finally what kind of gloss top coats should I use that I can put on top of the acrylics and UNDER enamale (when I panel wash)?

Then finally, what kind of matte top coat would I be able to use? I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Du...stors+dullcote

but now I am hearing I shouldn't use Lacquer on top of acrylics and enamel....

I don't paint a lot but even I know this is impossible

I mostly use Lacquer product BTW

Additional info

I didn't use acrylic too much but when I do, I use Isorpropyl alcohol as a thinner and it works fine.

Same here, great selection of colors too

Oh, and to offset the lack of proper supplier of spray can for modelers...

I use tons of Acrylic-Lacquer topcoat normally used for motorbike parts and accessories.

They work wonders when I don't paint the model much, or when I use lacquer paints.

Ok so since tamiya acrylics are the most abundant in my area, I should just stick to acrylics ONLY right?

So:
1. Acrylic OR Lacquer Primer(BTW, what type of primer is the Tamiya brand? And I heard lacquer eats up plastic?)
2. Tamiya acrylic airbrush coats
3. Acrylic gloss clear coat
4. Enamel Wash. (all the tutorials say to use enamel...)
5. Acrylic matte coat
6. Done?