I agree... I wouldn't say it like that though. I prefer not to step on anyone's toes.

This is what I've done so far. I suck in building models :(

http://s11.postimg.org/q8nojbc1v/gundam.jpg

I think I need to change the yellow part's color to a light haze grey.

You rushed the paint. When it comes to painting, you've got to be super patient. A good paintjob takes days! Average MG will take 5 days... That's without prep. Prep can take months!

Keep the yellow in there, Purple, violet goes good with yellow. I like it so far, keep up the good work!

Ok. Need to learn from this when I go into building the next parts. I also did the mistake of painting the runners directly. Thank goodness that the quality of the kit's just superb. This is miles ahead of the Tamiya 1:350 Yamato that I built a while back...

(at least I did sand and apply primer)

Don't paint runners. I know it seems easier, but it's not. Just buy bamboo skewers. You can get them at places like walmart or zel... target? lol Lots of places. Then look at some crafting stores for alligator clips. Finally save a big piece of styrofoam. Or you could do something like this:

http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/h...%20118_jpg.jpg

When it comes to painting on the runners, it's not going to turn out pro. You need to have the parts put together. Once they are fit then you sand based on the fitment. Then take apart, prime, paint, wait at least 24 horus, carefully snap fit, sticker, clearcoat, wait a few days. Then you can handle it, without too much risk of scratches. If you use acrylic you've got to be fairly careful, either way.

Also Sworra is correct. Leave the yellow. If anything just paint it a similar yellow.

The yellows are actually painted yellow as well. About the only thing not painted is the inner frame.

I know they are painted. The kit's original is orange-yellow, but if you're going to repaint it, go with a similar yellow at the most.

@panzerfan Nice color-combination. I agree with Sworra & Prov, the yellow goes well with the purple. Still, I thought you were gonna paint it in Hi-Nu's color scheme? Did you change your mind?

Kind of. I saw the original color for the Hi-nu, and I liked it better than the blue that Bandai chose for it.

You painted it with spray cans?

Yes. I think I need to get a real paint gun one of these days though.

Airbrushes are pricy. You will pay around 300 for a full set... 3 tips I can give you... 1.)Gravity feed is your best bet 2.)Dual action for models is best 3.)Compressor should have a air tank.

Now from my experience, you don't need to get a special air compressor. Even a cheap one from an automotive place is good(Canadiantire has deals on them). You only need 3 things for it. Pressure regulator, water trap, fitting for your airbrush. All can be got for cheap, at the same place.

Now in terms of an airbrush. Iwata make decent dual action, gravity feed brushes, for around 140 dollars. I think it's the HC CP or whatever? It's a good one... It will be good enough for your needs throughout your skill level. You can buy paints at low cost, at the dollar store even(acrylic). You can use windex to thin them! Cheaper then paint thinner. NO! The blue colour won't ruin your paints.(it's soap and actually helps the paint flow better. Just make sure you mix it well.)

Don't let the price fool you either. You'll save a lot of money on paint. One of those small tamiya paints, will paint 2-3 MG, when your skill level improves. With an airbrush, you can paint layers as thin as paper, uniformly, good coverage, low waste.

The hands on this kit are really unbelievable. This level of articulation is utterly amazing.

http://s21.postimg.org/q6njvpk87/hands.jpg
jpg images

(Going through fitting now. cleaning up as well)

So would any Damashii stand work with Gunpla then? What sort of connection does it uses? Same sort of peg?

Dont you also need one of those ventilation painting booth thingies?

A spray booth is nice. It's going to help with painting too. It not only helps to protect your lungs(wear a respirator anyway), It helps prevent over-spray. Do you need it? Yes/no. Yes, if you intend to use lacquer paints or other harsh chemicals. Yes, if you want to keep paint from going everywhere in your house. Yes, if you care about your health. You don't "need" it. You can use a cardboard box to prevent the over-spray from making a mess. Spray one colour at a time, to help prevent over-spray.

It's generally a good idea to have one, but so long as you work in a well ventilated area, are careful, don't paint hash paints indoors. You'll be fine.

So I've just tried doing the enamel wash method to panel line my RG Justice. I've encountered a problem, though: Every time I try to clean off the excess enamel paint with a cotton bud that I've dabbed in lighter fluid, there's always spots or even splashes of excess paint that I can't remove. Either that, or I accidentally remove the paint in the panels that I've already filled. Is there a better way to do this?

Also: RG SF and MG Sazabi Ver Ka announced! :D Both were kinda inevitable but it's nice to have confirmation.

Hooray! Said nobody ever, these two were the most predictable kits ever

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9aoPnbE273...4/s640/1ga.jpg

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9jCArHVgoW...s1600/1ggw.jpg

Where are those excess parts located? Are you talking about hard to clean areas like near crevices or the inner parts of a raised section? Or just excess paint along the panel lines? Perhaps you are not using enough pressure while rubbing or the buds you are using are too dirty to clean properly? I tend to switch cotton buds for every segment (eg thighs, lower legs, feet, upper arms/shoulders, fore arms, etc)

Maybe you should also try dedicated enamel thinner for cleaning?

What I'm referring to is the excess that flowed out of the panels on the parts itself or I dabbed on by accident, that I'm trying to clean off.