i read once of someone using like wood protector as a top coat, with good results. I would think that would have to be done by hand. Of course I would never do it my self.

I plan on doing a Gundam showcase at my convention in Florida. I have a master modeler coming to give a demo on modeling and stuff. I was thinking of having a showcase and auction.

Does anyone have any advice for me while I plan on organizing this?

Depends on what intentions you have for you're convention. Is it to promote sales revenue? Introduce to new audience? Promotional? Got to be a little bit more specific. Reason > Aim > Progress > Result :)

Still a work in progress...

You're getting there.

Is there anything you might suggest though? I am also a panel lining noob. I'm also gonna display the O Raiser crashed once I'm finished building it, like it also shows in the Trust You ending.

Eventually, I'll even do the other 3 Gundams in their battle-ravaged positions in different locations in my room as if a war broke out ^^.

would you guys recommend the tamiya flat clear spray?

http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-80

is there a substantial difference between the tamiya spray and the Mr hobby clear flat spray?

Not much difference between both tamiya flat clear and hobby flat clear as they're both lacquer based. But as mentioned before they can eat into paint and decals if sprayed too heavily. They're best applied over lacquers or fully cured acrylic paints.

In a nutshell flat clear lacquer spray usually give a better finish when done right as it's more stronger than Gunze Topcoat. But Gunze topcoat is more versatile and safer option as it's water soluble and doesn't eat into paint or decals.

Also lacquer sprays are prone to "frosting" when sprayed too close or applied too much so extra care and attention is required.

Mr. Bushido's Ahead
 

Finished my Bushido's Ahead
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image507.jpg

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image512.jpg

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...2/Image515.jpg

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/1072/1239724616922.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7...9724638070.jpg

QT-ARMS?

What is this based on? Looks quite amazing.

http://hk.myblog.yahoo.com/ambroseyin

As you can see, Dengeki Hobby crownded the guy overall champion of Gunpla for 2008.

Ah I see, Dragonspawn of Warcraft, those monsters are cool.

I read that gunplay champ article too. Definately a innovative design I must say.

Does anybody have experience separating skirt armor? I would like to get the HGUC Alex, but it seems that the front skirt is one piece only, and even worse does not have those ridges to keep the two halves in if separated. How do I solve this problem? (Without resorting to putty)

Only way I can think of that is relatively simple to do is cut the middle tube that connects the two skirts in half and reconnect it with a 3rd tube inside it so it's a snug fit between the skirts. Not so tight but enough to swivel the 2 skirts up and down. However that method limits skirt movement to up and down only and only works if the tubing of the skirt is hollow. Free movement skirt will either have to remod the skirt with a ball joint and/or some putty work.

The connecting tube is usually wider than normal rod joints, so polycaps won't work. So I will have to either find small plastic discs to glue on, or find a perfectly snug plastic tube and cut it to the right length, to serve as end-caps.

Curiosity question. Why not work with putty? They're relatively simple and easy to use:confused:

In that case, can you recommend me whatever brand and specific type you use? I want something fast-drying and does not require a separate hardener.

Tamiya epoxy putty is relatively quick and cures fully within 5-6 hours. There are other alternatives that cure within 20min. However it all depends on size and amount of modding required which makes the curing time all relative.

Personally I never had a problem with Tamiya's stuff. I tend to leave it to cure overnight for scratch building

*edit referring to Tamiya epoxy quick type*