One coat of paint should be more then enough, but it really depends on the paint too, some paints are naturally thinner then others and will require more then one coat. I always had trouble with yellow for some reason its always on the thin side and i have to add a few coats to get it to look right.

As for gloss vs. flat that depends on you which one do you prefer more, i tend to use flat 90% of the time, i think it just looks better.

wow it looks really nice :love:


wonder if 00 Raiser would also get one

http://playevolution.files.wordpress.../dsc00160r.jpg
http://playevolution.files.wordpress.../dsc00170r.jpg

I know I'm slow compared to all the fast people who take photos of their completed models one day after their release, but this is my completed 1/100 00 Gundam. I'd say I'm satisfied because this is my second fully-painted model.

It was on sale back in AFA08... But It was SOLD OUT within the FIRST day of the event.... Ouch...

just wondering evolution_ayu, i'm pretty new to painting, is your paint job spraypainted or handbrushed?

Hi everyone happy newyear! i would like to ask question to those who build their MG sinanju. Any loose parts? whats more stable in terms of posability sinanju or sazabi? i have a sazabi but the articulation is limited. any polycaps for sinanju?? thanks a lot guys!

he used an airbrush to paint the 00. ive always wanted to get me a air brush but they were out of my budget when i started building. I should really pick one up now that i have a good job and all.

Yes, it's my first airbrush job. It really opens the doors to whole new levels of modeling.

Happy New Year! The MG Sinanju is polycap-less. According to Japanese reviewers the kit is aimed at poseability but no idea if the parts are loose. My guess is without polycaps, the joints are initially tight but if you keep playing with them they will eventually wear out and become really loose. I had similar experiences before but I might have just gotten a bad batch.

Don't dismiss the thinner just yet. The worst thing you can do when painting with enamels is let the paint go on too thick, since it'll take forever to dry - just a little thinner will completely prevent this from happening. Lesson learned the hard way.

Also, don't paint from the jar, use a disposable mug with a bit of paint at the bottom instead. A few drops of paint at the bottom of a mug won't splash over nearly as big an area as a full half-ounce jar if it's knocked over, and you won't have to worry about contaminating the paint in the jar. Easy way to mix paint too.

The correct amount of thinner to use is "enough to make the paint behave the way you want it to", which is usually about one brushful (dip the brush in thinner) to however much is in my cup. Test the consistency by brushing up the sides of the mug (disposable ones are usually styrene, same as model kits). When you start having trouble finding enough paint to collect with the brush, dip it in thinner again.

SP

I'm not sure if enamels work the same as acrylics as I am a Mr. Color (acrylic) user. 50:50 paint and thinner does the job for me whether I'm hand-painting or airbrushing. It's thin enough to not give you horrible brush strokes but not so thin it runs everywhere when you paint it on.

i forgot to say not to use from the jar, you can also get little plastic cups at grocery stores like the ones restaurants use to put your condiments in. And depending on the type and brand of paint you might need thinner so test it out first. you can use the cup but i prefer to use the runners the model comes on so you can see how it will look and react to the plastic.

I tend to use a piece of runner to stir my paint with, and then use the stirring rod to dribble some paint into my paint mug. I haven't been able to find (rather, I haven't bothered to look, really) any cups with lids to go with them, which would help in those cases where you've custom mixed something that you might want to reuse.

A lot of household products are really useful for modeling purposes, some in less than obvious ways. The best enamel paint stripper you'll find is spray-on oven cleaner (Mr Muscle is what I use, but other brands with similar composition might work as well). The instructions I read says to put your painted model in a bag and cover it in oven cleaner and leave overnight, then rinse in water - I tend to forego the bag and just use a glass bowl instead, leave it for only half an hour or so, and use a toothbrush to help take the paint off. This won't harm the plastic in my experience, though sometimes glued bits will come off due to the handling (especially if the bits are glued to a painted surface).

Future Floor Wax, also known as Pledge, Klir, Klear, and about a dozen other names, is about the best clearcoat you'll ever find anywhere, and a half liter bottle costs about what two half-ounce modelling brand tins would. Thin it, or wash it off completely, with any ammonia-based window cleaner.

I make my own sanding sticks from wooden ice cream sticks, white glue and wet&dry sandpaper bought in an auto body shop. The finest grade I've found is 2400 grit, and I mostly tend to use 600 or 1000 grit paper.

If you need something polished really finely, go raid a beauty shop for nail care products. Soft nail files are perfect for polishing out scratches not just in nails, but clear canopy parts and stuff. This is also where you find the highest quality tweezers. Nail polish is also (sometimes, test it first!) usable as effects paint - I'm planning on using some sparkly metallic green nail polish on the GN drives on my Gundams for example.

And then there are the art supply shops, where you can get things like a 0.1 mm permanent black marker, or graphite sticks, both of which are used to fill panel lines, OH film (perfect for flat windows), etc. They also tend to have things like scribing tools for when you need to carve out your own panel lines etc.

Cheers!

SP

oh 1/144 OO...what are you getting yourself into...

Damn.... That thing is huge! But 00 will slice and dice that thing to itsy bitsy pieces! Now... Trans-Am!!!:D

for anyone who have G Gundam MG series(God,Master,Shining and Spiegel). Is there any method to display those MG in the action base?

Kinda unfair comparison there... need 1/100 00 Gundam for that match :heh:

That's ridiculously massive for something even at 1/100 scale.

Well, a side by side comparison of the MG Sinanji with the MG Sazabi shows them to be about the same size... :uhoh:

Well they look quite identical.