While working on my current gouf conversion project, I decided to add an LED and do an update to an old tutorial that I wrote over 7 years ago... quick link to my blog post which includes the video is here: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=1061 But the same stiff I have written in the blog I'm posting below (click on the images for bigger pictures):
This time around, as opposed to having all sorts of wires running through the kit, using a fairly sizable switch assembly, a big battery holder and battery assembly; I’m going small scale. Below is a list of the components I will be using for this modification: * 3mm Red LED rated at 1.85 forward Volt at 10mA * 150 ohm resistor * Small reed switch * SR521 watch batteries that put out 1.55 Volts each * A rare earth magnet And here is a picture of the above mentioned parts: http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20074_jpg.jpg The idea here is to keep the components as small as possible so as to fit within the confines of the head assembly. The reed switch is a magnetic switch. It is basically two leads piped into a glass tube, so when placing a magnet over the leads or over the glass the leads connect and a connection is formed. It’s pretty damn cool, and these switches were about a buck a piece, so this beats the hell out of building my own magnetic switch or just using your standard mechanical switch. The resistor is calculated out according to my power source and the LED’s specs. It’s pretty basic math: resistor (R) = (Power Supply Voltage – LED’s forward Voltage)/LED’s current rating. OR you can just cheat and use an online LED calculator. So with what I have, I need to use a 150 ohm resistor. First things first, connecting all the components and just doing a quick test. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20056_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20057_jpg.jpg Next up is to modify the head and internals so that everything fits into place. The mono eye holder is cut and sanded, then two small holes are drilled to accommodate the LED anode and cathode. The LED assembly is test fitted, which resulted in the need to further grind down the mono eye holder. About a third of the part was sanded away. This was the only part that required significant modifications, and it was just trimming down the part by sanding it down and drilling holes. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20058_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20059_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20060_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20061_jpg.jpg Keeping the LED alone is kinda tacky as it’s just one long bulb; so to make it look more mono-eye like, a metal collar is added. Even with the small mono eye window, this small amount of detail is still fairly clear, and should still be visible once the mono eye lights up. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20064_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20063_jpg.jpg With the LED bulb in place I can now focus on the rest of the electronic components. The batteries are wrapped with duct tape and placed in series so that I get a total output of 3.1 volts. 1.55 volts in the single battery cell isn’t enough power to light up the 1.85 volt LED. The internal section of the head at the back is an open space and perfect for fitting most of the electronics. A bit of resin carving and shaving was needed to get the battery pack to fit just right and have the top half of the head come down. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20069_jpg.jpg The reed switch, as small as it is, wasn’t small enough to fit inside the head assembly, so a modification to the bottom of the neck piece was needed. A concave cavity was carved out of the bottom that fit the reed switch. The leads were then carefully bent. Side note: the reed switches are fairly delicate, while I was bending my first reed switch, the glass broke causing the entire switch to come apart. The leads are positioned to run up the back of the back corners of the neck and through bottom of the head. The only issue I have is that the switch leads are exposed and run up the side of the neck, but this is an easy fix with some mesh tubing, it’ll even look like a small bit of added detailing. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20070_jpg.jpg After some fiddling with the fit of all the components to get all the connections set; everything came together quite well. And placing a magnet at the bottom of the neck assembly turns on the LED. The entire assembly resides within the head and neck and operating the LED only requires placing a magnet at the bottom of the neck. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20068_jpg.jpg And now for the pictures of the completed assembly. http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20065_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20066_jpg.jpg http://gamerabaenre.com/thumbnails/g...%20072_jpg.jpg |
looks cool. shame the reed contact is so wide though. i read on your blog you preferit over a mechanical switch, they do come in smaller sizes then the reed contact though.
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Yeah, I know I can find smaller mechanical switches, but I would have to order them online, I haven't found a local source for such small switches. One of my local electronic shops had the reed switches, so I went with it.
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Here's a 2 new kits I just finished building.
Spoiler for Kakuka Virsago:
Spoiler for Reborns Gundam(Trans-AM ver.):
How do you get clear violet/purple? I tried mixing clear red and blue, in any proportion, but it turned to clear black. I also tried painting red/blue first then applied the blue/red after the first color dried and I still got the same result. Luckily, this is the Trans-AM ver. so I just painted the clear parts clear red. |
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already done mine :o but feel like getting another 1 as this 1 dont think doing a gd 1...
spoiler for big images Spoiler:
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Are the blue parts of the head foil stickers?
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i'll see a 00 Gundam with two 00Q shields... :heh: |
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Here's mine Spoiler for PIC:
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Wah, people getting their HG 00Qs already..........I'm so jealous. >__>
I find it interesting that its possible to use 00Q shield with HG 00 Gundam. Some kitbashing ideas would be possible. Yes, 00G with 00Q's shields sounds like a nice set, as would be 00Q with 00G's cone. Even better yet, get 00Q with 00G's cones plus 0 Raiser binders, just for kicks. Now that I think about it, you should technically be able to use all of 00's weapons on it as well. Maybe the right hand needs to be switched and I'm sure 00's arms (minus shoulder pad) would be almost identical to 00Q's left arm. Hmmm.........kitbashing indeed. |
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That looks SO COOOL! If only the 00Q or 00Raiser looked like that..... |
RG 1/144 RX-78-2 Gundam
This 1 looks nice but must bcareful when built it... cuz the parts is too small and got many decals......
1 thing is in my mind..... y the beam saber given is so long? even higher than RX-78-2...... next RG Zaku......must get it also.... nice for collection RG! http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01124.jpg http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01125.jpg http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01126.jpg http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01127.jpg http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01132.jpg http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...8/DSC01133.jpg |
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Don't forget another GN Sword III, it always looked off with just having one.
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