My MG Sword Impulse
 

Hey everyone, I've just finished my MG Sword Impulse. I'm a fan of big swords ^^.
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/1104/img4178.jpg

Here is the full gallery. What do you all think? :D

good work .keep it up.

As a big fan of Impulse I must say... TOO COOL! :) I can see that you chose the Lunamaria decal and sticker version as Impulse has a FAITH symbol on its shoulder.

By the way,anybody got any good tips for paint-to-thinner ratio or link to any good paint/thinner mix tutorials?Prefably thin,had bad experience with thick paint before........

Hey zyuan, I didn't know you had an account here. Awesome job on the SI.

are u mixing it in for airbrushing or simply handbrushing? if airbrushing i recommend 1:3 (1 part thinner, 3 parts paint), one of my mates does airbrushing for his kits and i asked him and this is what he recommends (this applies to enamel paints, should be similar for acrylic). if handbrushing i recommend a very small part of thinner (if any at all), i normally paint straight from the bottle and use no thinners.

hope this helps :)

now i was wondering if someone can help me with choosing the right sandpaper i need to sand the excess plastic that is left on the piece just after u cut it from the runners. like what 'number' sandpaper would u recommend (i.e. 600?)

1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper will do ,;);)

1000 and above grit sandpapers are used for a smoother finish, depending on how smooth you want them.

Go for grit 400 to remove the nubs. Should do the job fine without removing too much surface material. Follow up with grit 600 to completely sand the nub to hell without leaving a trace.

i'm using a 680grit to get rid of excess plastic... then a 1000grit to smoothen it out. =)

Actually I just used the decal to cover up the plain shoulders ^^;

If you are handbrushing, then you should add a couple of drops at a time until you feel that it will apply smoother. Thick paint is pretty hard to apply.

Thanks ^^

You can use 600 first after the part is cut and then 1000 to clean it up. I just use my modeler's knife and fillet the nub off ^^;

That Impulse is a beautiful model...congratulations.

On another topic, a friend of mine bought the MG Zeta 2.0 HD Color, and he's having some serious trouble with the balance of the kit. In other words, the Zeta can barely stay stand even when the waverider isn't included in his back. With the waverider on, it's just next to impossible. Now, I know that the Zeta hasn't have the greatest possability, but the fact that it just can't stay still at all makes me think that something went wrong while assembling the model (the legs or the feet). I checked the model and several pics at dalong.net but nothing seems wrong with the legs, except that whenever we try to stand it, all the weight goes to the heels and the rest of the foot stays almost in the air...that's the only hint I have...any help or tips would be appreciated since it was an expensive model...

I could take some pics of it but not today -_-

p.s: I bought the MG Turn A and I'm very satisfied with it, even if the gates at the chest are a pain in the ass


Update: The Zeta can stand pretty well without the waverider on his back now, but it's still impossible to achieve that when we try to include it, so the question still remains to anyone who can provide some help

If you haven't glued the foot pieces. You can hide weights at the foot base of the foot. That way it can be stable. What i used when doing this trick was iron pellets i took mine from a shotgun bullet. Cut the plastic casing from the bullet, pour out the pellets and then use hot wax from a candle and cover the pellets. You can use other metal material which i suggest, if you can find something small enough to hide it in the foot base. And no the bullet didn't blow up. lol its the back of the bullet that you shouldn't mess around with. If you don't like the pellet method there are other ways. Just be careful is all I'm saying. Metal plating is another method if you can get some steel. Grind the plate to the size of the foot base.. secure it with a strong glue, Grinder helps a lot. :)

That might help with your problem.

That's a really good advice, thank you. Unfortunately, I'm afraid that maybe if I put it on the display base (the zeta comes with a custom one, ressembling the argama's launching place), the excess of weight could stress the joints on the legs that stand still in the air...so that's why I asked if anybody with the Zeta 2.0 had the same problem. Anyway, I'll take in consideration your advice but i'm still open to suggestions.

http://playevolution.files.wordpress...pg?w=500&h=666

Here is my 1/100 Gundam Exia. More pictures here and here.

thanks for the tips guys!!! i just ordered on HLJ

just one more question, if i want to achieve a glossy finish (like glossy gold), which of the following spraypaints would u recommend?

Tamiya TS-13 Clear (does clear mean gloss?)
http://www.hlj.com/product/TAMTS-13

or the Gunze Mr Topcoat Clear Gloss Spray
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-501

i normally use tamiya for all my painting needs but i wasnt sure if 'clear' meant glossy finish as they have another one called 'semi-gloss'

nice, is it painted?

I'm more familiar with the Mr Hobby line; http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-513, but I'll discourage you from trying the semi-gloss. Either go full gloss, or matt. The effect the semi gloss produces is somewhat similar to the original shiny plastic sheen which imho, is a waste of time and money.

hi thanks for the advice, however my hobby shop only stores the above two spraypaints, i just want to confirm does clear = gloss?

Well,I just bought an airbrush recently but it is unoperable for the moment.Until I get it working,I wanted to start with some minor drybrushing,specifically beam sabers and HG 00's GN Sword II's aiming sensor;IE that blue thing on the top.I plan to use Tamiya's Clear Blue X-23 colour....will test on some runners first I guessmdon't want the blue to be too dark.I don't have clear white either[If such a thing exists],so I can't mix it to make it lighter if it turns out to be too dark.

By the way,can someone tell me what exatly does thiiner does?I have an idea,but since I don't want to screw things up,I just wanted to be sure.

By the way,nice MG.





By the way,when people drybrush/airbrush,how do they usually hold the parts?I always see them using a stick,but I never knew how they got it to stick to the part...

In simple terms, thinner makes the paint less thick, so you can brush easier and the coverage is smoother and less, well, gloopy.

I use handitak to hold the individual piecr to the rods. It's just a clayish adhesive. You can get it at places like Wal-Mart and whatever.