I wouldn't know; I don't have models to experiment with kitbashing. But I imagine the more expert modelers would know how to modify the 00 Qan[T]'s internals so it'd work properly, so there you go.

I see. Generally though, I can't help but feel the 00 Gundam suited this setup better than 00 Quanta.

Hey peoples, I had a couple questions about forces of nature on Gunpla:

I know that if you leave white Gundams they tend to turn yellow, but is there any damage done when you leave black/blue/dark Gundams in the sun?

Also, how do you guys tend to keep dust off of your Gundams? I don't have a storage case or anything and dusting them every week or so seems like a pain =/

Thanks in advance!

Put any gundam in the sun is a bad idea haha. UV damage will make the plastic brittle. Same thing with the darker colors, colors will fade and become brittle.|

As far as I know, display case is the best way besides manually doing it.

Swiffer or cheap versions of it (those "magnetic" dusties) have a sort of a rag-thingy and I think that works amazingly well.
alaso avaible in knock-off prices!

http://inhabitat.com/files/swiffer2.jpg

Damn... I was thinking about getting a Kyrios (my favorite gundam from the 00 series) gunpla set (if you can find any this long after S1 ended) or the new PG Deathscythe (my favorite gundam from the Wing series) to keep on the windowsill.

Oh well... Looks like I need to come up with something else to spice up my windowsill other than houseplants, dust and dirty dishes...

Woah! I didn't think about UV Damage from the sun on Gundams making the Plastic Brittle. :heh: I've kept my Strike Freedom Lightening Edition in the window for almost 2 years.



and theres little hairs and dust all over my models too. :heh:

Would spraying a layer of topcoat help to protect the plastic?

Speaking of topcoat, does anyone know roughly how much topcoat would be required for a typical MG? (or in my case, MG Red Frame Astray) I am planning on spraying all the pieces even the inner frame. I was going to ask my friend to buy me some 86ml cans of Mr. Topcoat from Japan but wasn't sure how many would be needed.

Also, since I am just applying the topcoat to make it seem less plastic-y, would it be better to remove the pieces from the sprues and then spray it with topcoat, or spray the pieces while they are still in the sprues? I am worried that if i spray the pieces while they are still in the sprues then the nub-areas will lack the consistency of the rest of the pieces, or is this hardly noticeable?

Sorry about so many questions but this is my first MG and i want it to look as nice as possible (despite not painting) =]

Thanks in advance, you guys are awesome =D

Guys, sometime soon I'm going to be buying a display case from Ikea, it's pretty cheap and small so I think it'll be perfect for gunpla, not sure about some of the bigger models but I think I confirmed HGUC Kshatriya could fit in.

http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/10119206

This is the english link, but I'm sure if you search 'detolf' into your own countries' Ikea site, you will find it. I've also seen it in a gunpla video, it should hold quite a few HGs.

I think I would want a disay case too I hope my Ikea have something of the like.

By the way, does anybody where I can get one of thee rotating thingies; don't know what it's call. But if you put your Gunpla or gunpla on an action base on it, ot will rotate along with it. I saw
it on one of the YT videos once and it seems like something cool to use; since it would be cool to use.


On another unrelated note, what is the consensus on the "RG"-78 so far?

RG seems to be fucking amazing from everything ive seen/heard about it.

i have the exact same case at home for my gundam collection, each level can roughly fit 2 MG Gundams positioned on display stands, any more and it gets kinda of cramped

If your topcoat is thick enough (2-3 layers, for instance) it will protect against scratches. UV rays? Probably you need a topcoat that says 'uv protection'. Just one layer of topcoat is not going to do much for protection, you could even scratch it off with your fingernail.

Depends how many layers of topcoat you want to put on, and how you spray. Bear in mind a spraycan's target area is pretty wide, so it's a good idea to group the pieces together so that you don't waste.

If you're spraying the model after full assembly, ie clearcoat internal frame once, then another time with armor on, then two cans should be more than enough. To be safe... I guess at least three cans?

(For a rough idea, I used two cans on a 1/60 nongrade exia, where I grouped the parts together on a styrofoam board using stickholders and sprayed in a wide pattern, giving about two-three coats)


Definitely remove first. If you want, you could even sand the nubs with fine sandpaper. A thick layer of topcoat will cover up minor scratches easily.



*important note*

Since you're using topcoat (water-based), you don't have to worry about temperature when spraying.

But if you use mr. superclear (lacquer-based, stronger film), only spray in warm weather, as the clear coat will frost up in cold conditions.

(then it will ruin the extensive paintwork you did on the parts, and you won't feel like working on the kit for a week)

^^IS that the reason my flat Mr superclear Flat feels a bit too matty then? Because I'm spraying it in cold considtions? I know its not distance, thats for sure I do not have the same problem with topcoat with said distance.

I recall doing it on a chilly night, so it fits the profile.

Yep, it's definitely the temperature. Best to do it on a hot day, and don't spray on too thick a coat at once. Let one coat dry before doing a second one. Oh, and shake the can thoroughly before use.

I'll give it another shot then. I'd thought it was just naturally like that.

Super Clear seems to be cheaper than topcoat based on the size of the can after comparing the relative size and prizes of the cans. Although.......since I'm really short on time, perhaps its better to go with the topcoat then. I rarely do any painting during the day.

Thanks ID555!

Based on your response, I would assume that you could spray the topcoat after full assembly. I was thinking of spraying when it is fully assembled but was afraid the topcoat might not get into tight areas/be blocked by other pieces resulting in patches without any topcoat.

I would prefer to spray while it is assembled because i don't have anything to hold the individual pieces for spraying. However, since i'm using topcoat to make the plastic feel better and not to actually protect any paint (i will be panel lining it though), is it significantly better to spray while its disassembled though?

speaking of cases.

I have 4 of these,aspvik, but they where selling these with a glass door (not any more for some reason).
and on of these, bjursta.

Have 'm set up like this: http://www.grimmreaper.nl/images/DSC05181.JPG

HG1/144 Harute in MA form

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/...77367f60_z.jpg

:love:

B-E-A-Utiful.