Thanks for the info!

I forgot to ask this, but what is the best size/dimensions for the markers? To give you guys an idea of what I have, most of my kits are unpainted 1/144 models.

dalong posted the review of the Lucas Strike IWSP. Doesn't look all that different from the previous one -_-

you mean what scale kit is the best to use markers on? in that case im sure it doesnt matter what scale it is. The bulk of what i built is MG.

btw just finished 1/100 Exia after school today, more pics later possibly.

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4...d003qb9.th.jpg

Bandai To Raise Gunpla Price Due To Raising Cost Of Oil

Which may come to little to no surprise for some of us actually.

What I meant was which markers would work the best for the 1/144 scale models, since I believe that the lines would be smaller than 1/100 or 1/60, wouldn't they?

P.S. Nice Exia!:D

Being a fan of Gundam Duel, I think I will buy Virtue also.

It's part of the 00 storyline.

What's better, acrylic paint or enamel? I bought a set that was enamel, because it came with paint thinner, while the acrylic didn't. I didn't open it yet because I was wondering if in the end, are the results about the same for either enamel or acrylic, or is one better/preferred than the other?

haha funny, but oil is worthless in 00

Because acrylic paint can be thinned with dihyrdrogen monoxide.

I don't get what you are saying. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

If you are hand painting, enamel paints are better, because they are oil based and dry slower. This allowed for the paint to self level and results in brush strokes disappearing. I don't recommend using enamels for airbrushing as they take a while to dry, and they smell pretty strong.

If airbrushing, go with acrylics; as they are fairly easier to work with and can be cleaned up with water and thinned with isopropanol alcohol. Your typical tamiya acrylics are not formulated for hand brushing and will dry too quick leaving brush strokes if hand brushing; but they are nice for airbrushing.

Okay, thank for the info! Yeah, I am hand painting them, so I guess I'll stick with the enamel paints.

Thanks for the help everyone! I love coming to this forum because I know I'll get my questions answered by nice and knowledgeable people. To me, you guys are the "Model Masters."

Depends. Considering that it's one of the most toxic substances on the Earth. :eyespin:

Yep, water is toxic alright... I heard somebody died from drinking too much! :heh:

Anyways, where's my RX-78 2.0 with G-Armor? My Char's Zaku 2.0 is getting awfully lonely..

How is the Zaku 2.0 anyways? I was considering getting the normal one soon and wondered if it was as awesome as Dalong said it was.

The irony here is astounding...

Superb, the kit is excellent in every aspect. I thought Dalong.net's score was too high myself, but after building one I can understand why it got such a high score. So yeah, if you're a Zaku fan there's no reason not to get one.

Even if you are not a Zaku fan the II 2.0 is still worth it, last week I acquired one (the grunt version) and constructed the inner frame, which has more flexibility than those of the Gundams, making me understand finally the why behind the scores dalong gave.

Anyways, believe it or not I still don't have any replica of any kind or size of the RX-78-2. You guys recommend a MG version of it? The Ver. Ka. looks sweet enough but supposedly a 2.0 version is going to come out this year... or should I get it in any other form (MSiA, GFF)?

thanks it just seems like a great kit, and it being only around 40 bucks is a bonus.

If they were coming out with a 2.0 RX-78-2 i would wait for it. I have the 1.0 and the 1.5, they both suck.

*Gasp* =O How can you not have an RX-78? Lol! Anyway, like sword.impulse have said, both 1.0 and 1.5 doesn't quite cut the cheese. However, I would recommend the One Year War version, either the game color scheme or the anime color scheme(I have the anime color scheme). The OYW's well-engineered inner frame makes the kit very flexible. And it is the best looking RX-78 so far. =)

Or wait for the version 2.0. I wonder what "new technology" Bandai will incorporate with this one...

lol I think I'll see if there is one RX-78-2 OYW model in the store during the weekend then (still searching for a Unicorn to pull off a TROMBE! version lol), I don't really mind about the color scheme difference. A real mystery to myself why I haven't got one yet despite being a great fan of it -_-
What I don't get of this Gundam is why all the photos of any MG version box show its bazooka in pure white when it is actually molded in gray/black plastic?

Lol, I always wanted a RX-78-2 O.Y.W ver. The flexibility is just awesome. But all I got was the Coating ver, and it was not nearly as good as I thought it was upon purchase .

EDIT: Hmm, found some pictures on the Overflag:

http://shop.hobbyist-inc.com/online/...=4543112523785

The rifle looks pretty good, but the rest is exactly the same as the Graham Custom. I guess I wont be getting this one then. >_>

I don't have RX-78-2 too :D. I'm waiting to see some pictures of 2.0 before I decide which version to get

Sorry for the late reply, didn't expect anyone to respond :O

The rifle was done by using an undercoat of dark metallic color (dark iron) spray painted on followed by light metal color (aluminum) that's dry brushed on.

The dry brushing is the tricky part where I first get a small sized (#3) paint brush with aluminun paint, then I waste most of the paint on a piece of scrap plastic like a cutting board. Just move the brush over the same area until you see that the paint dries up while preserving a good amount of paint in the brush. Giving time for the paint to dry yet not dry up completely is the key. When the consistency is right, you can use the side of your brush along corners, or just brush lightly and you'll see that you're painting fine lines which resembles a brushed metal look.

This is a close-up photo that illustrates the brushed metal effect.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2236/...f726ed33_s.jpg

I also intentionally use a 200 grid sandpaper to give certain parts a rough surface, so that when I do dry brushing, I just end up painting with the side of the paint brush and only the uneven surface get painted with aluminum silver.

As far as paint, I prefer Mr Metal Color from Gunze, but if that isn't availalbe, Testers Metal Color works just as well.

Body armor is much more straight forward. I shade with dark purple first, followed by semi gloss white paint. For the PG Gundam it looked too bright so I ended up using dry brushing with brown and black to give it weathered effect and bring the brightness down. It's the same way I colored my MG Mk-II, except that in the MG I do heavy weathering that the corners actually show dark lines. It's hard to describe, well, the example is below. You can see the dark lines on his shoulder armor.

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1350/...d15cfd70_s.jpg

Hope that helps!

I don't have RX-78-2 either :D

Everybody says that the One Year War version is the best one in terms of design. But what about the fore-mentioned version 2.0? Is it out already or is it planned to be released in the nearest future?

For 1/144 models, you'd probably want the smallest sized marker such as the 0.03mm marker from Deleter. If the lines still look too thick for your liking, switch to using gray color instead of black. Work wonders for me. The sad part is that it's really hard to find them online for some reason. The 0.05mm are easily available. The markers are called "Deleter Neopiko Line-2 0.03mm".

If you can find them, then get grey and black at the same time. Otherwise, it's easy to find 0.03mm black markers such as the ones from Copic:
http://www.jbox.com/PRODUCT/CMC004

release today

http://www.1999.co.jp/dbimages/user/...g/10066687.jpg

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10066687


http://www.1999.co.jp/dbimages/user/...g/10066675.jpg

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10066675

Even the fingers have one joint! Only a few MG class models have this luxury. It pose so well you'll have fun playing around with it like an action figure. :D I'm not happy with the pink armor for Char's version, but then it makes for better painting with a darker shade of red.

Shame on you! XD

Bandai announced it a few months ago(someone posted it on this forum a few pages back), though we've yet to see a lineart nor a prototype mold of it. But I don't think a 2.0 is necessary; OYW is pretty 2.0-ish enough in my opinion.

Thanks for the info! I was looking for markers yesterday, but didn't know what to get. Thanks again!

There's something about 2.0 series... I liked Mk-II so much that I don't know whether buy its MG now or the ver. Ka Crossbone.

ya, the MK-II 2.0 is really nice, so is the zeta 2.0

To be honest, I prefer Mk-II design over Zeta. Maybe it's the color and the classic look of the dark Titan's version...

Got myself another Nadleeh just so I can do some......hair extension.

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/6...8991653za2.jpg

Could post the details if anyone had plans to change the hair later on.

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4...9327264nv5.jpg
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/4...9255717dd8.jpg

I'm interested in knowing how.

Please do. This might become handy in case the upcoming 1/144 has the same issue with the hair. Thanks. =)

And you went ahead and got yourself a new Nadleeh for that purpose alone? That's hardcore, dude! I salute you! XD

i know, i am not sure about other version of Zeta, but the 2.0's leg is bit too stiff in a weird way. MK-II is much better for posing, and i love how they came with action stands...

so my paycheck comes in tomorrow and I think i'll splurge on a Master Grade. I don't have a huge amount to spare, so the high-price ones like the Sazabi aren't viable. so, good forumites, I ask you: whats a good MG kit, preferably Universal Century, thats in the ballpark of $50 dollars?

Probably may very well get attacked for this, but anyways here I go. I do buy High Grade Gundam models, and yes I do repaint them by hand with enamel paints in various paint schemes, of which if you want to see what can be found to closely resemble my paint schemes, I direct your attention to MechWarrior 4 Vengeance. I do have an airbrush and compressor, however, I rarely even use that for my model railroad diesels and railcars.

List of Gundam models I have bought, and yes once again they are all HG 1/144th and I do paint them. Don't give me lip over your thoughts on 1/144th models or even the fact that many of them are cheap.

Principality of Zeon mobile suits:
MS-06S Char's Zaku
MS-07B Gouf
MSM-04 Acguy
MS-09RII Rick Dom II x2
MS-06FZ Zaku II
MSM-03C Hy-Gogg
MSM-07E Z'Gok
MS-09F/trop Dom Tropfen

Earth Federation/other mobile suits:
RGM-79G Colony/ground x2
RGM-79GS Colony/space x2
RX-77D Mass Production Gun Cannon
RX-78NT1 Alex Gundam
RX-121-1 TR-1 Hazel Custom
MSA-0011 [Ext]

A few of pictures, excuse the kitchen please:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...elhazelGC1.png
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...elhazelGC2.png
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...s/gundam-1.png
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ndamhazel1.png
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ndamhazel2.png

Alas you will not yet see a picture of my Hi-Nu Gundam, its the only Master Grade version I have bought yet, and that was only a week ago.