i like gundam because its seriousness
its not sum stupid anime with cat girls and magic attacks
gundam got me into anime, and i only like that kinda anime
sd to me is the bane of gundam to me -.-
its making fun of gundam,
and its not very fun
just retarted
but anyway thanks for the recomandation, i'll check this seed thing out.
any particular mecha?

Well, to each his own I suppose...

Anyway, as for suggestions as to the NG kits, I have thrown together the M1 Astray, BuCUE, Blast Impulse, Slash ZAKU and the Freedom and Strike Freedom. Of those, only the Freedom and Strike Freedom got a lot of attention to detail paid, and the others were just quicky, non-seam sealed and painted with Gundam Markers.

As for which one to get, I'd say just pick a design that you like the look of. There isn't much to any of them due to the limited articulation, so they are all pretty much as good as the next one. Just go with a design you like.

i dont know where to buy them though :(
are they still in toysrus?
caus i can get them easily there with money being no issue >> << >>

sd's are horrible nothing compared to the real thing.
but anyway do your Hyperion next i have all the 1/144 destiny and seed models and its one of my fav it just looks so cool when its done plus its gemicks are sweet the light sheild is sweet looking.

yes, we should make an sd hateclub T_T
but seriously how much do these models cost nowadays?
i remember back in the day regular models were like 8$ (the gw ones)
and the waltz ones were like 20

Not a chance Toys R Us would have NG SEED models since they never came into the US. They MIGHT have some of the HG 1/144 or 1/100 SEED kits, but thats pushing it.

Tisinc99.com is good; HLJ.com is good as well, and using SAL shipping is cheap, especially if you buy 2-3 models. Never bought any NG models anywhere else.

As for pricing, Tisinc sells the NG's for like 4-5 bucks.
http://www.tisinc99.com/gusede.html#top

Thats the link to the Destiny section. You'll see the NG kits simply listed as 1/144 kits and not the HG 1/144's listed later on.

But that why I like the SD's; because they aren't their original form. The SD Strike Freedom has all the gimmics of it's 1/144 counterpart and yet its different. But like I said before, to each his own. I like the SD's. You guys don't. More money to spend on the HG's and so forth, right?

Anyway, thats one for the Hyperion. I want to get a few more responses and see what people lean toward.

I used 0.1 drawing pen on my akatsuki ...


About SDs I think they are just like nonscale 1/144 made for practice but 1/144nonsc. is usefull for salvage, battle damages .... but there are great modelers who treat the SD great

but i noticed models i bought in teh past were in japanese =/
and i bought mine from toysrus...

Yeah, when Wing was hot, Bandai did 2 things. First they produced all new American packaging for the Wing models, stuck in the US instructions as well as the JAP ones, and sold them as such. Later on, when I believe demand was extremely high, they started importing the Japanese versions, sticking in the US manual, and then slapping a sticker to the side panels with the English name on it, but the front boxart was still the Japanese lettering. I remember my old HG Sandrock 1/144 and a few others were like that (which I got from Toys R Us.com). When the HGUC and MG's started coming over here, they started back with the US packaging, and with SEED and some of the 1/100 Endless Waltz re-releases (can sometimes be found at Gamestop), they created diorama-esque pictures using the actual models. I know the EW re-releases were given the US instructions, but since all my SEED kits came from Japan, I only have the Japanese instructions.

All my models were in japanese (thank god for pictures), they are mostly MG and Wing models. The thing is I ususally buy them at conventions.

hey guys i was wondering if anyone knows anything about the formula409 product that strips the gold chrome away from gundam kits like HG 1/144 Akatsuki and MG Hyaku Shiki .

Is it just ordinary kitchen cleaning product? or is there a specific product u need to get? i check the website and theres like 4 variations which one do i get? :confused: can i just use normal kitchen cleaner? and how do u soak all the pieces in it when its like a spray? do u have to pour it all into a bowl with no water mixture? =\

o yeah btw i live in aus and in syd does anyone have any recommendations on where to go to buy the product that will strip the gold chrome away?

I usually soak the parts in a tub of industrial strength cleaner like "Castrol Super Clean" or something. The cleaner is usually purple in color and very strong. Use gloves when handling. http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/c...%20017_jpg.jpg
This is a picture of some parts I soaked to remove paint.

Soaking for about one to two days will have the chrome peel or fall right off. Check out your local auto parts shops or the auto sections of your super shops like Targets and Walmarts. You should find a similar product.

Yeah, I'll second that Castrol Super Clean suggestion. I tried the 409 approach, but strangely, it stripped the hell out of the Akatsuki's plain silver undersides on the parts, but the clear yellow coated top side wouldn't budge unless I scrubbed it VERY hard with a toothbrush, and that still left small flecks on the parts. After seeing GameraBaenre mention that Castrol stuff, I got myself some and tried it on the remaining parts. After about a half a day or so, it was flaking off just like he described. I figure it only took half a day due to the 409 having stripped some of it already. When I hit it with the toothbrush, it peeled away and after dunking it in a water bath, the little flecks were gone too.

Damn fine stuff, but wearing gloves is something I should have paid attention to. That stuff burns bad. My skin was peeling like it were chrome on the parts....ok, maybe it wasn't THAT bad, but it did blister a bit in a few places.

I do have a question for you about the stuff though Gamera. How often do you replace it with fresh product? I've only soaked the Akatsuki kit, and like I said, the 409 had done away with the chrome on the underside of the parts, so roughly half the chrome. I know I am getting the other Akatsuki kit when it comes out, as well as a MG Hyaku Shiki in the coming months, so I want to make sure that if I should get clean product after 1-2 models that I do so.

just wondering.... with the castrol super clean thingo, do u make it just a whole tub full of JUST that or do u mix it with water and if so wats a rough ratio for water:castrol clean thing? thanks heaps btw! :D matt gold akatsuki will be alive soon ^^

i personally think that the gold on MG Hyaku Shiki looks alot nicer than akatsuki one.. its more whitish gold and suits the kit better than matt i reckon... but thats just me cos i have both hehehe ^^

o yeah btw does anyone know how to fix the leg joints on Mk II AEUG ver.2 ? the part where the leg connects to the ball joint that connects to the torso ? it is VERY loose and it pisses me off alot when trying to pose it >< any suggestions people? and also any tips on how to make the waist/body turn since it is initially stuck due to bandai's crappy production ><

and one more thing.. lol where can u buy stands for MG's and HG's? T_T i think theres some in hlj but i dont know which one since there are like 4 and i dont want to waste money on buying the wrong one ><

I have yet to replace the tub of cleaner. So I cannot answer that. It should still work just as well. If you notice a drop off in performance, then change out the liquid... fairly simple.

I have not diluted the cleaner with anything. I've used it straight from the bottle.

Thats kind of what I figured. I really can't see how the chrome would affect the stuff all that much, and seeing as the only kits I see in the near future that will need it are the Shiki and the Oowashi Akatsuki, I doubt I'll need to replace it for a long time. Seeing how many kits you have soaked in it, I'm sure I'll get lots of mileage from it.

Thanks for the info.

For MG's and 1/100 HG's, I have 2 of these stands and I like them:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YLSPPC-22

I have considered getting one of the two these for my 1/144's (and teh second one will support 1/100's as well, something they didn't previously mention):

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-29
http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-02

However, I just saw these today, and while they aren't taking any orders right now, since they are like the larger MS Stands, I may get these instead when I can for my 1/144s:

http://www.hlj.com/product/YLSPPC-28

thanks heaps for the tips GameraBaenre & OmegaZEROCustom i really appreciate the quick replies :D

btw the 3rd stand u mentioned doesnt look like it will support 1/100 scale kits since the arc is only 9cm but who cares ill be getting it anyway since its alot cheaper than the ms stand :D

what mobile suit or gundam is on this stand i cant seem to indentify it http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-02

See, I thought the same thing, but yet HLJ says it can be set to mount a 1/100. I'm ordering a few of them because even if they don't work with my 1/100's, I have enough 1/144's that it'll make the purchase worthwhile.

Meehlimo, I have looked at that item for months now, and I still don't know which MS that is. Part of me wanted to say it was a Gouf, but the legs look all wrong. I'm betting on a Zeta-era MS, but nothing comes to mind.

Ive always thought that the SD and the NG kits are the hardest. Such a difficult time to paint and detail...

Sd kits are very fun.. quick little builds. I finished one a couple of months ago:
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/sd_kampfer.htm
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/s...%20001_jpg.jpg

I really like that metallic look. I need to learn how to do that. It seems much faster than the gloss black->chrome->clear color method. (And now that I have read your site, I see that you said so yourself...lol).

That MS was designed by Hajime maybe thats why it looks similar to gundam, where its somethinh MK-II from SuperRoboWars

A Hückebein. It's a Gundam in all but name.

http://www.volks.co.jp/jp/srw_og/huc...ges/main01.jpg

Yes they did, they were the new "Skill Level 2" kits.

wow that Hückebein has some nice lines i always liked the Z and ZZ for their smooth lines and sleek shape, due to them being Variable MS's
that looks really nice and the those yellow vents are just sexy

http://www.suparobo.jp/goods/kit/kot.../img/03ph4.jpg

I raise you one with a Huckbein MKII

WHERE CAN U GET THAT I MUST HAVE IT!!!!
btw what grade is it? HG i hope. It looks like a heavily modified wing zero custom frame.

You have to be kidding me. I looked though the product catalog with an employee at at least 3 different Toys R Us stores and we never found anything below the High Grades. Thats odd. I wonder if they started coming out after I gave up on trying to get the kits from them and just started buying online.

That particular kit is a 1/100 Resin kit, same for the other one, but onyl the Huckbein MKII 1/100 resin is currently in stock.

http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYSR-03

Theres a 1/144 Huckbein, Huckbein MKII and MKIII injection kit though, they're probably slightly higher than High Grade if you want to compare to the Gundam models and slightly larger. But from my experience do need abit of painting and plastic cement.

Huckbein MKIII
Huckbein MKII
Huckbein

what good it does to peel off akatsuki gold chrome :confused:

yea personaly i think the gold on the akatsuki was perfect ciz in the anime it was a dark yellow gold.

and thanx for the info on that kit i was hoping it would be a HG 1/144 but i kinda knew it wasnt u would have seen it b4:(

To paint it maybe?

Some folks don't care for the gold color. And to properly paint it, you need to remove the chome for the paint to stick.

Also if one works on removing the seam lines and sanding all the little tree nubs down; it'll definatly look much better repainted. There's also endless modification possibilities.

one more question,
is there any products (liek paint or watever)
that i need to get started?
being 14, i only get like 20$ a week, so can i have cheep minimum recomandations?

get basic colors 1st of course black, white, red, blue... acrylics are in good price and they can be thinned with thinner or anything else even if its water (but not lot of it :p )

where do i buy this stuff?
dont i need brushes?

Yep, GB once again hits the nail on the head :). Sanding and seam sealing will obliterate the chrome as it is anyway, and while I do like the mirror finish, having used the chrome silver>cler yellow method,it gives off a far more attractive gold color than the "yellow" mirror.

Plus, by stripping it down, you can give Akatsuki a paintjob that seems more Cagalli-esque...I'm going to be doing this scheme down the road at some point.

Akatsuki Rouge

Got that from Gundam Evolution. I might do a Strike-scheme for the Shiranui (for Neo)and do a second Oowashi with the Rouge scheme for Cagalli, as well as their gold counterparts.

Of course ull need brushs start with some flat one for the big surfaces, small one for everywhere, and a verrrry tiny one ( 000 ) for the panels or for any details, and later you may start using sprays, you can buy colors and stuff like that from bookstores, hobby stores, online, anywhere and practice on SD or 1/144 nonscale :D dont waste good models ;)

how much do brushes cost?

Feast your eyes on the Gyaaan! HLJ has updated their sites for preorder. The beam saber has a light up gimmick. :cool:

prices depends on the manufacturer brand name and many other factors ... I buy Tamiya's products where they have 2 styles of the 000brush one for 5$ and the other for 15$ where the diffrent thing is the grip

And I reall want that Gyan (yesssss a 2.0 frame)