Yeah, I was thinking of doing that too. flatten the covers with boxart, keep the manuals and policaps

Uhm, it's not the masurao. See the parts where the sideskirt things hang from? it's the susanowo. and why 3x3? it only has one tau drive.

This is the main blog http://ameblo.jp/acquabbb/. have a look around for the gallery.

3 times because of T-A and 3 times again because Char is THREE TIMES FASTER! Multiply than and you got 9

Well,the custom model has 1 Tau Drive at the back,but the storyline official one have 2 Tau drives at the waist binders,both the Masurao and Susanowo.[The location wasnts officially confirmed until recently in the HG Trans-Am Susanowo manual]

I just said it was Masurao because bhus said it was a Masurao.:(

It does? wow, never would have figured that. i always thought it was in the Union logo on it's backthat's why i quoteted both your posts ;)

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7622/zmasuruo.th.jpg

Yes,while the confirmation only came recently,its been long speculated because of THIS image from the last scene of S214.See the waist binders.

Speculation started with 3 actually but a sourcebook[MS Illustrated 09 I think] later mentioned that Masurao only had 2,so this seems to be the configuration left.Only after much later did the HG Trans-Am Susanowo manual[release recently] confirmed the same Drive number for Susanowo as well as the waist binder being the actual location.

This is why I commended the Custom modeler earlier,because while he removed Susanowo's 2 Drives,he placed one on the back suggesting that he's aware of the mechanic details of the show.Canonicty isnt as important as aestatic beauty in custom mods,but I'd thought I'd praise him for making sure his suit has a Drive in the end,even if it isnt a significant point in custom modeling.From a 00 GN Mechanics perspective,his custom mod could still function properly because it has a drive,which is an important nice aestatic detail for those that are likes to micro analyse like me and are indeed familiar with 00 tech.

You noticed that, and yet missed the simplified horns and the non-TriPunisher chest and shoulders of the Masurao in the model (The Susanowo has more intricately designed horns and pivots on the shoulders). The entirety of the model is the HG Masurao alright, BUT with the Susanowo's sideskirt mechanism (and I see other parts kitbashed in, like on the crotch and the GN Drive on the back, probably from the HG Ahead).

......sheesh designers,if your going to create a variation thats mostly the same,at least keep the name.......>_>,Masurao was cooler as a name.

Then again,most of its main armaments was changed.

If you think it's bad in fiction, you'll be even more confused in real life: sometimes, the only way you'll know that a piece of equipment (whether firearms, armored vehicles, tanks, aircraft etc...) is a variant of something is through the model number and name, because most of the differences are internal, or otherwise so subtle that there doesn't seem to be any difference. In fact, two identical looking firearms are sometimes differentiated only by color, or worse only by their stamped markings which are hard to spot unless you look closely :heh:

Hey guys, quick modelling question, i'm trying to achieve a 'dark red' colour and i only use Tamiya spraypaints, i usually use Bright Red for my red parts but the i want to achieve a slightly darker red than the 'Bright Red.'

I looked at the tamiya website and i saw 'Mica Red', i recall that Mica spraypaints have a 'glittery' effect, is that true? What do you guys recommend?

The only thing i can suggest if you only use Tamyia spray paint is prime your pieces black and then use your red.

Anybody knows how to make Clear Pink?I need it to use it on my AD series models,some of their sabers dont look pink enough.[They look pink under bright light but alot like red when not immersed in one].And since the Tau models already use red,I dont want them to look too similar.

nope sorry, I used normal pink (gloss) for my BB strike's sword strike pack sword

Thanks for tip Sworra, i'm kinda new to primers, i bought one a while ago but havent got around to using it yet, the one i bought is this one:

http://www.hobbyco.com.au/product/sh...php?plu=T87044

is that the right one?

In regards to making it dark red, i should prime the runners first, spraypaint it black, then spray it red (and maybe finish it off with a matt topcoat), is that pretty much it?

I simply spray on a _very_ light layer of Clear Red. Adding a tiny bit of Clear Red to Clear also works if you're handpainting, but achieving a uniform clear effect would be difficult because you're handbrushing unless you have godlike handbrushing skills.

If I'm understanding correctly, what you're saying is the beam blades are too dark. If so, it's impossible to lighten them because the more clear paint you add, the darker the colour will become. You'll have to put a base layer of white, then Fluorescent Pink which removes the clear effect altogether.

Yes, that's Tamiya's primer you're having there. And Yes.

Sorry i should of elaborate a bit here, When i mentioned black, black being that it acts as a primer to make a different colour react different to a top layer of a different colour used. You can use a primer if you want. That primer you have in the link is for making paint stick better and identifing scratches and seam lines.

But if you want to get a dark red your black does go on first then you spray your red. Make sure you dont over do it on the red, spray the red lightly over the black until you get your desired affect. One other thing make sure your black is cured, Let your parts dry at least a day or two before you attempt the red.

Where in Australia are you from? You could probably find other spray paints other then Tamyia if your around major cities like Sydney or Melbourne. I know you can't ship sprays internationally but you can try with in your own nation.. I will try and help you out best i can since i have contacts within both major cities in Australia.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2743/...b72a49e639.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/...1fdce8e3_m.jpg

00 Quan[T] by Master Keita

Wow,I'm really loving 00Q's head right now.

^ yeah, I prefer it to 00's head... The face looks more awesome :D

Now I'm already waiting for the movie mecha models... They're gonna rock :heh:

My opinion remains unchanged. That Gundam looks fucking PISSED OFF.

lol, that makes sense. its predecessor had its GN drive jacked by almark. it might be sorely missing that 2nd original gn drive. i really love the quanta head, somehow the angry mode fits it very well.

The 00Q has one of the best gundam heads ive ever seen. In high detail it looks stunning. Period

I hve to agree that the head does look a bit angry... bt it looks quite dignified to me. Also, it rocks in high detail.

its pretty nice... but not as accurate as i first believed. its missing the vents in the upper head part on the side of the cameras behind the crest. but its not like i can do any better..

I have a question about model kits..its about the ABS plastic ( the inner frame parts of the Gundam, usually black in colour).I believe most modelers have nightmares when the plastic suddenly turns white (signs of cracking) when connecting parts together or accidentally bending the plastic.I would like to know.... if the white decoloration happens but haven't crack or break yet, will it still last forever like normal plastic parts? or will it break eventually? I have build many Gundam models and I started realizing it when building the PG models..it has many ABS parts and it always started to turn white when i just connect it with another part.. hope every modelers can share their experience about this..really worried.

^
I for one do not seem to have that issue upon assembly/connection. Turning white it will probably not break, but if more force is exerted overtime, it may just break.

Many thanks for the tips that i have received. I will start by testing it on a small piece first (is primer optional?). Also Sworra, you mentioned you have some suppliers that you know in Sydney, i like to know about some of them especially if they have paints (i.e Mr Hobby Topcoat Matt, my supplier always runs out of stock fast) or reasonably priced gundam kits

It's not accurate to the new lineart, but the model is based off the old 00 Qan[T] design shown in the movie trailer as evidenced by the yellow chest plate with lack of antennas, the circular GN Condenser and the white sidevent walls.

...and by that, you mean the REAL 00-Qan[T] :heh:

So if the parts is connected to another part and it turn white, the plastic wont break at all?:confused:

For now it will not break, but its durability will not be that strong. Exert more force on it and it'll definitely break.
So in your case, which part exactly are you referring to?

http://forums.animesuki.com/picture....ictureid=30295

it was quite tight when i connect it and it turn white(no cracks). So i was wondering will it be alright to leave it be? The structure of the parts can be seen in www.dalong.net PG 00 Raiser. As long as the force remains the same, does it mean it won't break too?:confused:

Was bored today so I decided to finally paint my SD Exia Repair :D
Can't be bothered to find my camera so i took the pics with my phone, hence the slight blur.
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/5734/sdexiare.jpg
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2070/sdexiarepair.jpg

Juts gotta put LEDs into it, I've tried it but it doesnt seem bright enough, maybe i need to get brighter ones :eyespin:

As far as my experience with ABS plastic pieces.. it's safe to say that it will not break for now. No gurantees in the future, but you're good for now.

I guess everything is not perfect.. i just straight build it without doing any errors and the plastic itself causes problems(good job Bandai:mad:)... so how long do u think it will last? 1 year? 2 year? If it did crack, is there a solution to repairing it? Getting a new model will really be a waste...:(

http://gunpla.jp/jgoc/kensakug/upfil...g_main_781.jpg

a preview pic of the upcoming MG red astray, apparently comes with clear parts!!!!! to be honest i think the clear parts are exactly where they need to be

cant wait for my pre-order to arrive ><

cant wait to get this &

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/...bca1c43529.jpg

:heh:

The clear parts are included as part of the "MG Clear Parts Campaign", which also includes many other MG's like the Victory Gundam. The Clear Parts won't be standard issue on the next batch of releases though AFAIK.

Everything looks fine and dandy from the front.....
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/8...4072644841.jpg
Until you see it's back. What's with the trigger hanging behind the head ? Clearly a side effect of reusing the Claymore from the Blue Frame without much thoughts put into the redesign process.

And I just had to say, why the clear parts on the crouch ? That is akin to modeling with a transparent pair of pants.