In terms of model kits, yep those would be the biggest. For the biggest representation of a Gundam though, I think the 1/2 Gundam lantern takes the cake :heh:

Nope, it should work wherever you live.

Hi guys! :D

How do you distinguish slide decals from dry transfers? Is it always the case that slide decals are pre-cut and have opaque backings while dry transfers have transparent backings? :eyespin: Do all MGs come with both slide/wet decals and dry transfers? Thanks! :D

MG's come with dry transfers. I think only one or two have come with waterslide decals. Waterslide decals always have a rather thick paper backing with the decal film from which the decals are printed on. Dry transfers are always on a thin plastic like transparent material. Not all waterslide decals are precut, many custom decal sellers just print the decals, and you need to cut around the decal to separate it from other decals and the decal sheet.

What's the point of this kit? :heh:

Thanks GameraBaenre, :D

Ive checked my MG kits and I've noticed that all of them come with a pair of decal sheets. In every kit, one of the sheets is very much like what you've described as "dry transfers" and the other one looks like waterslide decals.

It seems that those miniature warning signs are almost always printed as waterslide and are pre-cut, and those big detail signs like in MG Freedom's "ETERNAL" and "METEOR" are printed as dry transfers.

Do dry transfers require a glossy surface for them to adhere properly? Thanks again! :D

Actually, the biggest one I remember seeing was the 1/12 HY2M Gundam and Zaku. Dalong has a 1/24 version....

You may want to make sure that the second decal sheet are stickers, not waterslide decals. As much as I would love to have bandai switch over to using waterslide decals; I haven't seen evidence that they have. The backing for most water slide decals are usually blue, or a bluish tint.

As for applying the dry transfers; you can apply them on either flat or glossy surface. I don't think it matters too much. I haven't used the dry transfers in years. If given a choice, I would suggest applying them to a glossy surface. Then if you want, you can just spray a flat coat to give it a flat finish. if you have spare dry transfers, try applying them to a glossy surface and a flat surface and see if there is a difference. Sorry, I'm just very anti-dry transfers :) I have problems getting them to work well. Water slide decals to me are much more forgiving.

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9...5053ed8.th.jpg

Gel Ver 2.0

MasterGrade is suppposed to be non glue snap-fitting and non painting kits... ^ ^;;

With emphasis on non-painting. Thus this recolor is for those who don't like the washed out colors of the MG OYW version, but are too lazy or too inexperienced to repaint.

Upcoming merchandise pics
From The Gundam Base.Side 1

HGUC Gundam Ground-Type
http://www.gundambase.com/community/...1&news_idx=617

BB Senshi Blu Duel
http://www.gundambase.com/community/...1&news_idx=616

This is cool!!!

http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/.../wsfm/wsfm.htm

http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/.../wsfm/wsf0.jpg

That is awesome. I've been to this site before, but can anyone explain what mesarion is? Are they just people who take kits and mod them? They do fabulous work, so I'm really curious.

Also, totally unrelated....so I understand these kits don't need to be painted, but it's recommended if you want nice details and all. So what can I do with a kit just short of going all out with an airbrush? I don't own an airbrush or know how to use one. Anyway, I know there are the gundam pens for panel lines and gundam markers....anything else I need to know about?

Oh and can anyone recommend a good gold paint? I have a Strike Freedom model kit and while the gold on the wing parts is shiny and nice, the gold parts on the body are more on the dull side. I'd like to hand paint those parts to make them better looking. :)

Sorry for all the N00b questions, I'm rather new to putting together these kits.

Someone had Stargazer colors on the brain :p

Someone recommended Tamiya Gold Leaf or Titanium Gold for SF colors.

On another paint-related topic, what's the diff between Tamiya clear orange and just orange? I'm planning on painting some orange parts, but is one lighter than the other, or something else? Thanks. Does the diff apply to Tamiya Flat White and regular white also?

I need some kind of color guide :eyebrow:

Well, personally, i never used titanium gold or gold leaf bacause i just couldn't find them here in Malaysia...only sold in bottle form so i ended up using the regular tamiya gold. The results seem quite acceptable. Just go back a few pages to c the SF with regular gold paint.

Now that white SF really strikes me as a nice paint job!:D I just love it! i shall use some of those colours for my VF-0S model...been thinking of multiple ways to paint it but can't seem to decide on which one...White-grey-gold or Blue-white-gold...

I think wonder excellence site author used champagne gold spray paint, rather than gold. I was about to change my order to champagne gold but my gold paint order was processed for shipping already. It would be nice if there's someone who use champagne gold and give his/her opinion.

Do you guys think they will ever make a PG Strike Freedom?

And what do you think about using minor decals on a PG Wing Zero Custom?

IMO, it's unlikely, there's MG, MG Fullburst and 1/60 lightning edition already.
but there're possibilty depending on the market.

Clear orange is a transparent paint with an orange tint. Tamiya orange is a solid color. The clear orange will take up the previous color below it and give it an orange tint. I have used clear orange for painting clear plastic, so that the plastic has a orange tint, or I have used it over silver/chrome and created a metallic orange.

The difference between flat white and regular white is the finish. One is flat (dull/non light reflecting) while the regular is glossy (shiny and reflects light). Flat acrylic paints will dry faster than gloss acrylic paints.

This guy(s?) is amazing, been admiring his/their work for a while.

If you saw how much money he makes off selling his kits on Yahoo Japan Auctions, you wouldnt believe it.

Yeah, but just think about how much time he has to put into his painting and conversion work tot urn out something like that. I would not be supprised if he would make more money per hour flipping burgers. :(

More passion goes into building and modding kits than flipping burgers :D

Don't be dissing them burger flippers.

Oh, no doubt! A lot more skill, too. I'm just saying that while the prices for the finished models might look quite high, compared to the amount of time and effort put into it those prices are actuall quite cheep. ;)

From Hobby Shop Midori:

BB Senshi Liu Bei Gundam
http://www6.ocn.ne.jp/~midori-b/newpic/nes-g0745.htm

U.C. Hard Graph E.F.G.F. Anti-MS Squad
http://www6.ocn.ne.jp/~midori-b/newpic/nes-g0746.htm

hey guys, another question from me, and is directed at anyone living in Sydney Australia, where can i buy black enamel ink from?

for the panel lines on my MG SF >.<

thanks in advance!

I change my MG Freedom into MA mode :p

hey all, im new to this forum, but ive been buildin models for a while now but i noticed that there are absolutely no MG Justice models? whats up with that? besides Freedom and Aile Strike, the Justice is arguably the most popular so how come no MG models?

Black enamel paint in Sydney
 

zephyrus,

theres only a few model stores around in sydney that prob carries black enamel paint. I'm sure HobbyCo in the Midcity Centre will carry some and maybe the Astrohobby at Townhall, or Modellers World in the City might have them

Cheers

Very interesting indeed. I am curious of how you did that.

That kinda reminds me of Wing's flight mode....

You mean the original justice gundam? I believe the freedom gundam was more popular than justice, theres no reason why they shouldnt produce a master grade version. Gundam Seed is still popular enough, but I wouldnt hold your breath.

??? Has dalong's site changed?

Astrohobby s great t has the harder to find stuff for mecha building that Hobbyco doesn't (wqhich s just around the corner anyway).

Hey, I've been wondering if anyone can help me with this... I've been making Gundam models since the first Wing ones came out in the US, and I've always wanted to get rid of the creases between parts. I really hate the fact that after all this time building these things, it still looks bad because those lines in the models look terrible. Can anyone tell me how to get rid of them?

thanks guys, ill check at mdoeller's world and hobbyco ^^

by the way dan, you can use some kinda modeller's putty to put in between the cracks, i dont know the specifics myself since im pretty new at this too but thats what ive hear O_o

This will probably answer your question: http://www.fichtenfoo.com/02GiantRob...wTo.html#Seams

lol, trust me, I know. My dad flipped burgers for McD's during the $1+ an hour days, and he learned alot from that :heh: like, how to flip a burger like a pro, Emeril style :heh::heh:

He was/already changed servers. Popular site it is :D

Anyone got any advice on how to paint the parts on the Nu Gundam bazooka that are suppose to be black?