Mangatron, I disagree with making a PG Freedom. So many other MS deserve it more.

Besides, everyone knows that Strike>Freedom, but never Strike+Freedom

Funny, I'd want a PG Freedom. I thought the Freedom was one of the most beautiful Gundam ever created.

However, before some of you take it too far, I only like it on the basis that they do NOT use the default color scheme. Only when heavily modified with the magical spell that is model paint, can a Freedom truly stand out. :p

- Tak

OK i'm sure this has been asked, but...

regarding airbrushes....do you guys use em for paint your models? If so, what's a good airbrush to get?

SHOULD I even get one? I've been handbrushing or using gundam markers so far, but I think I should step it up a notch.

Mr. Hobby Topcoat is the only brand that I know of. There may be more, but my local hobby shop sells only that.

The only problem is the price.. but I guess that's part of the hobby. I recently did some calculations on how much I was spending on these supplies (like putty, paint, sandpaper, topcoat, brushes, cement, masking tape and etc) and found out that I was spending far, far more than the actual models themselves. Gotta start cutting back on the expenses.. :heh:

yea when I was looking for a way to pain my models when I started a few weeks ago I looked at spray kits and paints and I was looking at like 120-160 american at least so I went with 14 dollar gundam markers and Im quiet pleased with my decision. They were inexspencive and work quiet nicely.

But honestly...doesn't the high quality come from airbrushing?

which is why I need to know this info. Could I buy an inexpensive airbrush kit or should I go all out?

Come on, nobody is going to tell you what you should buy. You need to do some research on your own, find out what is available in your country and where it is distributed. You can do this online quite easily, and you'll find exactly what suits you. Dont make the mistake of thinking airbrushing will improve your skill. Most airbrushing techniques come with experience, but there are plenty of good guides for helping those who are new as such fichtenfoo.

Same here. Love Freedom

That's a myth. Airbrushing makes the process a lot faster, but doesn't neccessarily lead to high quality if you do a rush job.

Case in point, this person handpainted the Gold Frame Amatu

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/sho...d.php?tid=1208

Now i am seriously pissed!!!:frustrated: I already booked the SF FB AND paid the deposit at XL toys and when i got there, That bloody @****** said it is all sold out!!:frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated: I feel like choking the guy....grr..:mad:

sry, i just had to relive some anger.

This happens all the time...and I'm worried about the Zeta 2.0 nearby...

Take it out on innocent civilians.

Its a ripoff anyways...

yea cancel it and get the stock one.

Whats up with the conversion kits I keep seeing on ebay? I understand they are resin no paint so you can custom paint but usually I see little or no difference between the plastic and resin piece. Is there a reason to use resin pieces over plastic pieces like say the paint holds better or something Im not seeing?

Yeah, I know. But perhaps you should note my comment is in relation to the fact that I was noting on correcting the inconsistencies in the MG model....

Because.....if a MG Destiny Gundam isn't in the works it wouldn't be so bad to PG it, since it was a main MS in a series....:heh:

But I don't really think too much into whatever PG is next, any of them is fine to me...

Gyah! Only 1 "heh" emote lol

Resin holds details better than the injection plastic that Bandai's kits come in. That's why most of the figurine models for anime in general are also made of Resin and cost a bundle.

- Preach it, Tak.;)

Spray/Airbrushing is ideal for doing lots of area at one time. They key is not overdoing it. Not too close; 1 foot away from the part you're spraying is ideal. Some better-tuned Airbrushes can do a lot more than just area painting; some camouflage colors and effects can be done with Airbrushes in ways handbrushing can't ('strippling', for example, looks better when using Airbrushes than hand brushing). But it takes time and experience to learn. Likewise, there are some things an airbrush still cannot do--like panel lines.

As to Conversion kits: yes, the Resin kit conversions have better detail, and a lot of them are top-quality. But (Murphy's Law of Gunpla), they cost 3-6 times more than the kit you're buying them for. If you really want a competition-quality kit (or a conversion for one that doesn't exist, such as an MG GM Cannon) and have the money for it, go ahead, but IMHO, it's too much to pay for. B-Club in particular sells 'em at horrific prices.

Also remember that Resin is a bit tougher than the PolyStyrene plastic that the GunPla kits are made of, and the usual Polystyrene cement (Tamiya Cement, for example) will not work. You have to use a different kind of cement--or barring that, use Super Glue. I learned this the hard way, trying to put a Resincast 1/48 scale LAU Rocket Launcher to a 1/144 Cgue I was customizing.

Oh, about buying spray paints: You also have to check if the paint will work properly with your kit. I've been warned that Tamiya's PolyCarb sprays will melt some Bandai models--never tried it myself, but it's worth checking first.

Well, i am pretty aware that i am being ripped off by buying the SF FB but somehow the decals that are gold in colour attract me more. AND the second pair of hands which i require. so....if they can't find 1 in stock i'll just settle for the normal 1 then. But i'll try to squeze a discount out of these people because they forgot my package.;)