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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

kakakka 2009-11-14 21:20

It depends on how much you want to colour.

Some parts like beneath the shoulders, and some parts of the knee/lower legs, have to be coloured first before assembly. But it's up to you if you want to go that far.

Overall, I think it's better to colour before you assemble fully.

X207 2009-11-15 00:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkstrife (Post 2767526)
uhmmm... you buy them from you local hobby store?? they dont cost a lot and are of much higher quality than the ones you get bundled with the kits. even ebay has them as well so try that and you might grab yourself a bargain :D

that'll be a bit difficult for me, theres only 3 place that sell gunpla in montreal. the best one doesnt keep them in stock too often, the other has more anime merchandise including models and the 3rd has gunpla once in a blue moon.

i have a question to the people that use mr. colour brand paints. i really like using that paint, sometimes it dries too fast for my liking but over i like it still. i do have one major problem with it. using that paint means that i need to scrap a brush. ive tried varsal then removing the paint with my finger nails that works half the time. usually it works on the first 2 uses then theres too much paint on the bristles and the brush becomes a solid point. is there any solution that neutralises it so the brush isnt scrapped? i usually use humbrol enamel but i do use mr color for some peices.

darkstrife 2009-11-15 00:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by X207 (Post 2768059)
that'll be a bit difficult for me, theres only 3 place that sell gunpla in montreal. the best one doesnt keep them in stock too often, the other has more anime merchandise including models and the 3rd has gunpla once in a blue moon.

you can try ebay or online hobby stores like the ones based in japan

quick question: what colour of spraypaint do u guys think most resembles the inner frame parts of a gundam kit? (i was maybe thinking gun metal?)

X207 2009-11-15 00:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkstrife (Post 2768083)
you can try ebay or online hobby stores like the ones based in japan

thanks, looks like online stores are the way to go :s.

Nerroth 2009-11-15 02:05

I like to use Figma stands, personally.


However, if you know anyone who visits Toronto often, you could ask them to check a few of the model stores in this city. There's one right on Yonge and Dundas which might be able to help, though I'd call ahead of time first.

SonicSP 2009-11-15 06:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by X207 (Post 2768059)
i have a question to the people that use mr. colour brand paints. i really like using that paint, sometimes it dries too fast for my liking but over i like it still. i do have one major problem with it. using that paint means that i need to scrap a brush. ive tried varsal then removing the paint with my finger nails that works half the time. usually it works on the first 2 uses then theres too much paint on the bristles and the brush becomes a solid point. is there any solution that neutralises it so the brush isnt scrapped? i usually use humbrol enamel but i do use mr color for some peices.

I use the Mr. Color thinner,that helps.

The brush is still sort of like slightly damaged though,but thats wear and tear.

Kelrys 2009-11-15 09:40

http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...Image292-1.jpg

Picked this up today. I think the Duel looks more dominating after this redesign :)

X207 2009-11-15 10:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nerroth (Post 2768206)
I like to use Figma stands, personally.


However, if you know anyone who visits Toronto often, you could ask them to check a few of the model stores in this city. There's one right on Yonge and Dundas which might be able to help, though I'd call ahead of time first.

thanks, i'll look around for 1 or 2 figma stands.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonicSP (Post 2768451)
I use the Mr. Color thinner,that helps.

The brush is still sort of like slightly damaged though,but thats wear and tear.

thanks, i know where i can get it though last time i went they were out of anything. i dont care too much if normal wear remains on the brush, as long its usuable aside from being a solid tip.

yusawateva 2009-11-15 13:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by X207 (Post 2768682)
thanks, i'll look around for 1 or 2 figma stands.



thanks, i know where i can get it though last time i went they were out of anything. i dont care too much if normal wear remains on the brush, as long its usuable aside from being a solid tip.

wait, so thinner is used to remove paint from the brush? since every time it touches water it turns into putty/solid

Akuma_Blade 2009-11-15 13:33

I have a question:

I was buy GN Archer but i not think buy Arios, If i'll buy Kyrios, can I combine it to GN Archer?

xYuki 2009-11-15 13:37

gundam dynames.. my favorite:eyespin::eyespin::eyespin:
i owned :D

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/3084/dsao.jpg

Dynamite 2009-11-15 14:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by X207 (Post 2768059)
i have a question to the people that use mr. colour brand paints. i really like using that paint, sometimes it dries too fast for my liking but over i like it still. i do have one major problem with it. using that paint means that i need to scrap a brush. ive tried varsal then removing the paint with my finger nails that works half the time. usually it works on the first 2 uses then theres too much paint on the bristles and the brush becomes a solid point. is there any solution that neutralises it so the brush isnt scrapped? i usually use humbrol enamel but i do use mr color for some peices.

Use paint thinner/alcohol. Think lighter fluid works too...but of course, its lighter fluid.

I believe Mr. Color is lacquer based so use lacquer thinner if you can't get your hands on actual Mr. Color thinner.

If you're using enamel, both lacquer and enamel thinners work.

If you don't want to ruin brushes, use acrylics. They wash off easily with just water.

If you're hand brushing, your brush should be kept in perfect condition. So...be careful with them. And don't buy any brushes below 2 or 3 dollars. They stink...

Quote:

Originally Posted by yusawateva (Post 2768871)
wait, so thinner is used to remove paint from the brush? since every time it touches water it turns into putty/solid

Yes, thinner can be used for that. But you have to use the right thinner. The wrong thinner either does nothing or makes matters worst.

I assume you're using enamel or lacquer since they react badly with water. Do not water your brush down after you dipped it in paint. If you want to wet your brush before painting, then dip it and squeeze out excess water.

AaKkisa 2009-11-15 14:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akuma_Blade (Post 2768882)
I have a question:

I was buy GN Archer but i not think buy Arios, If i'll buy Kyrios, can I combine it to GN Archer?

Wouldn't work. Sorry.

SonicSP 2009-11-15 20:31

I've got some questions regarding painting with brushes.

For the moment,I havent found a good way for myself to do it.I tried it with thinner but the paint is usually quite thin,and tend to to splash around alot.Sometimes the colour doesnt stick good as well.

The other end of the extreme,I've tried it without thinner but the paint is too thick in this case.Whatever I paint on usually loses its inner lining design [if they have one].The paint just swallows all of it and its no longer visible after painting.

I have tried varying amounts of thinner of course when I mix it,to find the perfect balance but I have yet to find it yet.

So can somebody give me any tips on this issue?I usually use brushes only for painting small sections that require painting,the HG scale have plenty of those section that needs it and I'm primarily a HG owner.

Some videos would help too if anybody has them.

bio9205 2009-11-15 20:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonicSP (Post 2767805)
Is it okay to do most of these coloring after the kit has been fully assembled in regard to the HG Reborns?Because I've heard a bit about some parts that are best coloured before the assembly is fully done,I can't remember which part that it was referring to though.

If you are looking for anime-accurate, then there isn't much to paint or panel-line for the Reborns. Really awesome kit.

Sworra 2009-11-15 20:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonicSP (Post 2769512)
I've got some questions regarding painting with brushes.

For the moment,I havent found a good way for myself to do it.I tried it with thinner but the paint is usually quite thin,and tend to to splash around alot.Sometimes the colour doesnt stick good as well.

The other end of the extreme,I've tried it without thinner but the paint is too thick in this case.Whatever I paint on usually loses its inner lining design [if they have one].The paint just swallows all of it and its no longer visible after painting.

I have tried varying amounts of thinner of course when I mix it,to find the perfect balance but I have yet to find it yet.

So can somebody give me any tips on this issue?I usually use brushes only for painting small sections that require painting,the HG scale have plenty of those section that needs it and I'm primarily a HG owner.

Some videos would help too if anybody has them.

Try using two drops of paint to one drop of thinner, Or until the paint looks milky thick.. Is it enamel or acrylic?

SonicSP 2009-11-15 21:49

I use Mr. Color,which like Dynamite says is Lacquer.I know its not water based though[and they release fumes],so probably not acrylic.

I have used the 2:1 ratio before but I dont think it worked that well.Maybe I'll try again.

Dynamite 2009-11-15 22:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by SonicSP (Post 2769512)
I've got some questions regarding painting with brushes.

For the moment,I havent found a good way for myself to do it.I tried it with thinner but the paint is usually quite thin,and tend to to splash around alot.Sometimes the colour doesnt stick good as well.

Generally speaking, paints come pre-thinned so anybody could pick one up and go at it. The only reason to thin it any further is if you're putting them into an AB or some delicate jobs like wash panel lining.

But, please keep in mind that I don't use Mr. Color lacquers so I don't know how they come in. In fact, I don't use any type of lacquers except Tamiya spray cans. I'm just assuming they are pretty close to enamels due to the texture.

I have decant a Tamiya spray can before though, and I have to say they are pretty easy to handle...if you don't get knocked the hell out using that stuff.

Quote:

The other end of the extreme,I've tried it without thinner but the paint is too thick in this case.Whatever I paint on usually loses its inner lining design [if they have one].The paint just swallows all of it and its no longer visible after painting.
Shouldn't be happening. Yes, paint tend to "eat" details after application. But after it sets and dries, the details should reappear.

Quote:

I have tried varying amounts of thinner of course when I mix it,to find the perfect balance but I have yet to find it yet.
If need be, use your preferred ratio (3:1, 2:1, etc) and layer it. Best bet if you want to control the paint like you do. Don't expect it to be done with just one application.

Keep in mind that if you're painting on dark surfaces, paint wouldn't "stick" as well. So if you're applying a white to dark blue, its going to take several layers for it to show. Visa-versa with dark paint and light surfaces.

darkstrife 2009-11-15 23:11

what colour of spraypaint do u guys think most resembles the inner frame parts of a gundam kit? (i was maybe thinking gun metal?)

SonicSP 2009-11-15 23:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynamite (Post 2769801)

Shouldn't be happening. Yes, paint tend to "eat" details after application. But after it sets and dries, the details should reappear.

I think its the way I brush combined by me not using thinner;which is when this stuff sort of happens.I think I'm aplying too muchpaint over a small area,causing it to to swallow everything up,and it does sort of stay on long after the paint is done.Note,that I'm talking about small areas here,like a small vent for example.

I think I will try to get some pictures of my gunplas that have this.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dynamite (Post 2769801)
If need be, use your preferred ratio (3:1, 2:1, etc) and layer it. Best bet if you want to control the paint like you do. Don't expect it to be done with just one application.

Keep in mind that if you're painting on dark surfaces, paint wouldn't "stick" as well. So if you're applying a white to dark blue, its going to take several layers for it to show. Visa-versa with dark paint and light surfaces.

More layers needed huh?I guess that might be the problem,thinned paint for me doesnt show well.I guess I just need to dry them off and apply more then for these situations?



Anyway,thanks to those that give me the tips.Well appretiated.


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