id love to but is there a function to post a pic without going thru an image hosting site?

the GTR its pretty much just a body shell currently unpainted so its clear atm, the chassis is a TT02D so a google image should suffice at the moment for reference. the chassis is the main focus of the build so the body shell is interchangeable if i had multiple ones.

i do have other 2 R33 GTR to build glue/plastic cement type but since its been years since i did that type i got a 300ZX to practice *cough*sacrifice*cough*before going to the kits that matter. 2 R33 GTRs one wine red/carbon fiber look and a midnight purple and a black FD3s RX7. atleast that the plan depending on how that plastic cement deal works out though i could always try gorilla glue or another glue option. the glue that melts the plastic loves eating axles on he kits...

i dont have pics of the Bawoo yet, i like doing the painting then assemble. I'm likely to make a quick YT vid when the RC car is done, mostly a walk around thing, I don't really have a camera tripod...

Our Asuki accounts have the image album option right? Though I don't remember the resolution limitation for each picture. It's been a long time since I uploaded pics to my album/gallery.

LOL TY I forgot about the album function since it's not a common feature for forum sites. I think did do that in the past. The pic size was decent for that function.

I do remember using that function ie saved some gunplay pics in that function. I can post some other gunplay related pics I didnt post yet.

Out of curiosity what is the most expensive gunplay kits can reach? Its not a pissing contest, I never spent that much on a kit before ie the RC and the best kits can reach 4 digits for some setups... mine is an medium kit at best.

https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58881
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58877
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58878
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58879
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58880

for some reason i cant remember the proper tag dialog for the pics even tough the forum functions doesnt display the pic in the post... either way there is my Kotobukiya 144 Berkut, strike noir 144 and the RC chassis.,,,, i used the BB code in the album pic to make it work...

EDIT DEC 3: i got the gloss black details matted. had a enamel one but its hit and miss for the matt look. something about putting the right amount and having it properly mixed.. i used Tamiya flat clear and it did much better. i got the feet and legs, chest/torso and the upper part of the shoulders on Bawoo built. i do have the painted parts done minus the fingers and the green gun sight. anything remaining is a bit of edge touch up/cover up with Gundam markers on the black painted areas. the black marker is a bit wonky but the grey is more reliable for some reason.

any other painted parts done need a final touch up and assembly. the legs, torso and shoulders went rather fast though i lost track time ie 3hrs LOL. i dont cut the parts out unless i need to paint them or take them out to assemble.

Managed to finish this big guy recently. Was a pretty fun build and the finished result looks pretty sweet on the shelf. I did quite a bit of detailing (mostly with markers) with some photo etch parts thrown in for good measure. This is also the first kit I've ever matte clear coated, pretty happy with how uniform the Mr.Super clear coat ended up.

https://i.imgur.com/VjU5or9.jpg

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I've not had the guts to try it's transformation yet, I hear there's a good change of breaking something with it's fiddly torso construction.

My next build is a little less over the top, and pretty old school. So looking forward to it arriving.

this Just freaking happened and im just so mad at myself. i WILL NEVER work on a Gundam kit if im tired or dont feel as attentive as i should ever again! i continued on the Bawoo build. built the back pack, head, hips and the arms. i didnt do the hands yet as i didnt paint the fingers.

you know the feeling when you dont feel as focused from either insufficient rest of caffeine and have a mild head ache feeling? i was working on it with that feeling and i felt better after a pepsi can but it didnt last long. i was trying to fit that small dark green accent on the top front (center) hip part. the thin green V/U shaped part and had trouble trying to fi and hold it from the sides.it snapped in 2. i had no new useable plastic cement or fast acting useful crazy glue available that would hold. its not the end of the world but i will drop by the hobby store for plastic cement saturday so i can glue the damn piece back together again.

im so done working on any plastic model or kit for tonight! im just gonna watch TV or read a book. i felt like crap before the pepsi and planned to stop there for the night but i just wanted to do do another 2-3 parts after it and it was a mistake given what i just broke. i will get over it but i just hate breaking parts but atleast its not around moving pieces............. i really should have put my hold on it at the top and bottom of the waist but not paying attention to what you do does that once in a while..........

@Drake
Are the gigantic binders on that MG Ex-S 1.5 still as flimsy as the original MG? Btw, great work as always.

@X207
Nice builds, but they are screaming to be painted, mate. Strike Noir's shoulders, in particular, is begging for it. And yeah, always build your kits if you're in the mood for it, or if you're in high-spirit.



Anyway, more new reviews!! :D

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Yeah it's not always a matte finish, sometimes I need to settle for semi gloss with that enamel clear matte. The tamiya clear matte was a recent purchase a few months back. I used to use a Humbrol Matt black but that those tins don't have the best seals or it's the room temp they are stored in. The matt paints always seem to dry up after being used a few time of being opened. Semi to full gloss variants fare better for me so a Matt finish is needed. I'm still stuck with hand painting as most advanced method. If i tried spraying it many years ago then it might have been different. I'm not done purchasing kits but the space to store any kits is getting tight so they are seldom. I have used a Matt spray for 1 or 2 in the past but I did get a frosting effect once. Dealing with hand paints keeps my supply costs down for the most part.

I'm heading off to the hobby shop for some plastic cement today AND I just got the ESC for my RC in 1.5hrs ago. All the electronics are in and supplies to complete it, I just need to put it together, charge the batteries and pray I don't repeat a mistake. I just glue one side of the tires to the plastic rims yesterday, beeping new to it I chose the side that faces outward so i will need to clean it up when it cures fully and do a better job on the other sides. LOL RC baking instructions look a bit scary when it comes to removing worn tires.

Edit: i just glued the broken piece together and placed it on the model and oriented it nicely. its not gonna be the nicest but i would need to remember not to put pressure there in the future. the RC tires cleaned up relatively well but some of the gorilla glue is tough to remove it a very thin coat. i just need to glue the other side at this point and clean them up. Tamiya Flat clear is quickly becoming a favorite matt coat paint. its working well on the Strike Noire back pack:).

I cant comment on how the binders compare to the original vs the 1.5 ver. However I can say mine are fine, and there is a sliding lock gimmick to stop them sagging down. Mine is also a little stiffer thanks to the matte clear coat. Thinking about it the kit overall is pretty damn solid.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out as an unpainted kit.

i finished the Bawoo (95% of it). the kit is a bit worrying, its probably me being paranoid but all the loose fitting parts that are supposed to swivel when it transforms give it an uneasy rattling from thier nature. i do need to paint the saber but havent chosen a color and i left the hands au-naturel for the time being. i will fix that later on, i just want to clear my limited working area for kits for the time being. i want to focus on the RC car for the next 2-3 days...

when the sun comes out i will take some pics. the broken piece will prove to be a handful. i was close but not perfect in holding its repaired position when gluing it so one side is slightly raised by 0,5mm. either that or the nature of the sliding slot to hold it is just sloppy. in MS mode im not worried about it falling off, in MA mode, that may be a different situation. i can try putting a thin coat of clear satin paint on the mounting piece to remove some space to hold it better. it worked sufficiently on my Portent kit to hold the hip pack/self repair unit.

is it just me not placing the hips, legs and feet in the right position or is it common that many HG kits dont always have the same precise leg length.

i did find something very curious with the Bawoo kit in my build. there are little to no spare parts or PC parts when the kit is complete but the Bawoo line really is a bit unique as they dont have too many variants aside from color. it left the most curious unused extra part behind: the PCK/head swivel that usually goes to put the head on the kit. the proper head PC part was different from the gundam line kits. i never toss the unused PC trays from my kits as most of them are universal/differently labeled in each kit and they come in handy at times. never did i have a head ball cap leftover on a kit.

this is still technically a Gundam kit but 1:1
Dynamic tag cannot be rendered. (PrintableThread) i was planning to cross off most of the things in Hiroshima this year but covid... and then see Yokohama on the following trip but this vid messed me up. its a choice or the Yamato Naval Museum or this Gundam base for next trip. trying for 4 cities in 14 days is a bit difficult and i still have things in Hiroshima id like to see... but this Gundam is too cool to resist.

This is usually a problem of old HGUCs, especially the transforming ones.

Thank you for the reply, I was starting to think I was going insane as 90% of my kits do that. Some of them less noticeable than others. Then again I chose the HGUC 144 line for Its size and relatively low cost so it's something I will have to live with. I only have 3 100 scales: black/gold Astray completed form, red Zaku Lunamaria and the librarian crab red Blitz that I fully repainted to original paint color.

I chose the librarian Blitz as it was 100 scale and it had the extra parts with it. Its also BC I wanted a Blitz line up in my collection. MG PG versions are a bit hard for me to find storage space for when built... I got a few Blitz NG 144, SD, HG 100 2X.

Then again with the way I build the kits, I probably wouldn't give the MG or PG Justice it deserves, LOL pun intended.

The funny thing is, MG Blitz is smaller & more compact than NG Nebula Blitz because MG Blitz doesn't have the Amatsu backpack :D. So, if you have a problem with space, MG Blitz is actually the better choice ;).

at most i have 9'' of space for the kits. the Amatsu backpack sure does take a fair amount of space. the gold astray has the back pack on but the 100 NB Blitz has gone OG that and its a big pack so it would be knocking over the other kits beside and behind it. i space the built kits in a zigzag pattern, one front and 1 back and all centered so they are mostly seen.

it doesnt help that the Amatsu backpack is rather heavy and forces the kit to lean forward like my 100 RE amatsu 100 scale. TBH the crab red was an interesting idea but it looks a bit too weird IRL. i only did 4 full pait rebuilds : NG144 Blitz (little to no articulation...) NB Blitz, SD Blitz and Anew returner Garazzo colors.

LOL and please dont tempt me with all the good stuff the MG Blitz has to offer... thats one reason why i got the RC kit, it didnt seem too expensive to get into. if the size between MG an NB Blitz isnt really a big deal then thats great but id rather have a working 1:1 Blitz GUndam instead >.> i still have 9 kits to build (RC not included) and 5 of them require plastic cement (4 cars and 1 plane). one extra Gundam kit wont kill me but i still need to find space for it to display given my current to build list...

https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58883
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58882
when i look closer its not a perfect color match the garrazzo is the mid color range between the 2. and some of my other interest shows at the bottom of the pic...

EDIT: i have been procrastinating on the RC car for a day or 2 but i did manage to cut out the RC body. the front, rear and 1 side has been cut out, dremeled out and smoothed out. the other side is marked out to dremel out and sanded down and the 2 wheel wells to be cut out and sanded. once the body is all cut out and separated i will finish the chassis so i can fit the posts and go see when i can find time to paint the inner shell. im using the excess wheel well parts as est pieces first. my electric dremel is priceless in this task to remove most of the excess before manual hand tools do the rest.

EDIT 2: i put the tires on the chassis, blocked off the prepared bodyshell with painters tape to to the carbon fiber hood and trunk effect. currently at 2 light layers but it will require 4 to do complete and a black backing color. i will need to buy a TS 14 or TS 18 black spray for the spoiler. trying to match a dark wine red with hand paints will be too tedious so im just gonna make it black and put the CF sticker on the top spoiler table..

here is how the body paint turned out. the electronics still remain and the other body stickers to put on the shell.
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edit 16/12

the RC car is complete, the body is done and i finally figred out the stupid programming procedure after a few days. i decided to start the 144 HGUC Deathscythe OVA and im pleasntly surprised?? to see there are only 6 stickers on the kit not including those for the face. the painting should be easy but WTH is with the 2 separate torsos for this kit??
i have also used tamiya matt coat to take some looseness from that broken green piece i stupidly held the wrong way.

PGU review:

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Really hoping to get one of these after the new year. Been wanting a Grand daddy build for a while.

Currently working on a MG GM sniper custom just to pass the time in lockdown. It's a surprisingly fun little kit with a bunch of extras and some nice details for a retro styled kit. Will post some pics when it's done.

It's neat to see a comparison of two PGs separated by decades of technological advancement & artistic choices:

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Here's my latest build, proper happy with this kit. Lots of internal detail and extra armament for such a simple looking kit. The old school aesthetics grew on me a lot.


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Next up is the PG Unicorn, that'll be a long build i think. A good time killer until I can get my hands on the PGU RX78.

For some reason I never like the design of that GM. Maybe the combination of the buff head with the standard body. I would've been cool with it if has either buffer tanky body or a more piercing-looking head. Your work is superb though.

Anyway, here's review of the Core Gundam variants:
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so after ALOT OF procrastination, errors and hard learning experiences. i made 3 steps forward and 4 steps back on the RC project. i havent made much progress on the 144 OVA deathscythe due to lazyness and work its still just primer on the few parts that need paint, yes even 7 parts to paint can trigger this "initiative" to occur on a fairly easy build...

onto the RC, i got some anodized black wheel nuts, 3 set of black/red plastic rims with soft rubber tires, 1 set of purple aluminum rims and drift tires. ive ordered an MST drift tire removal kit today 7-30 days to arrive if all goes well, NOT including the *cough* beer virus delays. the new hard drift tires are near impossible top remove by hand unlike the ones that came with the kit. i have ordered a set of aluminum oil damper shocks from amazon 2-3 weeks to arrive. the aluminum tires will get a set of soft rubber tires taken from the black/red rim set. i made a short video of the car assembled and did 3 runs on mostly smooth asphalt in underground parking because winter and covid closures of proper drift tracks

here is the vid i made without the stickers installed
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sure you say its a sweet set of rims on the kit but thats the past. the rougher asphalt destroyed 3 of those original rims and getting replacement are hard due to the age of the kit and limited stock.
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58886
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58887

hard lessons learned here.. so i went for some replacements and upgrades/options. i havent glued any of the tires yet so its safe to say the kit is not running at the moment as it requires the aluminum set for asphalt and the upgraded shocks, both of which are awaiting work and delivery. the aluminum rims need a bit of accented painting but im still trying to find best way to tape them off. i dont have a protractor???? but im sure i got one hidden away somewhere.

the untaped area will be painted prime then finally red (anodized paint)the rest of the rim stays purple
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58888

here are some pics of the kit atm with black wheel nuts, body stickers and the tire options. the aluminum/rubber for rough surfaces, the plastic rims for proper surfaces
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58889
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58890

oh and i already crashed the GTR kit, 1 inch crack below the front right headlight. its been stabilized and the entire body shell minus windows have been reinforced with shoe glue and fiber tape. its not the biggest crack but it was painful to see the damage i did, hit concrete wall at low to medium speed. i wasnt able to turn sharp enough or brake fast enough to avoid.

i also got a 2nd hand spare golden yellow BMW M2 coupe body shell to bash around/learn with, 4 exterior panels are reinforced with only 1 layer VS 2x for the Skyline. havent taken a pic of the M2 yet, i havent finished on the body yet.

i do plan on getting another body shell RX7 FD3S or Nissan Silvia, 180sx or Sileighty im the future which ever comes first. the Kit looks great and once all the current upgrades are sorted then it should be fun to drive.

Thanks! This guy is actually pretty tanky overall compared to a standard GM. In isolation they look kinda similar in the body but if you see them side by side, the sniper custom has more going on with armour on the hatch and vents. It actually also comes with a set of the GM Sniper II's more sleeker/pointed shoulder armor on the runners, so it can be made a little less utilitarian. Which is a nice extra.

Forgive me for being an absolute noob but, what are those four "antennas" on the car's body? :confused:

Btw, do you have any reason to paint the tip of the GM's index fingers yellow?

Np, yeah those look like antenna but those are the body mount posts. The body she'll typically has 4 holes in the shell so it can slide down the body posts. Clips that look similar to hair Barrett, these body clips slide into slotted holes on those posts. 1 set to support the underside of the she'll and another set to secure the top of the body. Most people usually trim those posts down so they don't stick out too much when the shell is put on the chassis. Im not going to trim mine yet. I plan to get another body shell later which will be a different design and will only know which holes to use for the body clips.

There are some transmitters/radios that require an antenna but mine doesn't. Other holes can also be made in the shell for modifications ie fake exhaust tips, led lights and engine cooling. There are Electric motors and also gas motors. Gas motors usually have shells that have 2 squares cut out of the front window and roof around 1.5x1.5 inch. People also do cut holes in other areas of the body shell as they see fit for their purposes. Electric motors are usually fine with just 4 body post holes provided the ekectronics arent too close to each other.

Speaking of modifications, I cut out the oval part where the exhaust pipe stickers were supposed to go. No big deal but I found some chromy metal straws that I plan to use/attach to rear chassis with a small bolt to have nice exhaust tips. I haven't started on that yet, mostly trying to get it to run in a way so I dont break it too much. It turns out the shocks I currently have aren't half bad but they are still made from plastic. Trying to sort out suspension setting as a newb is confusing to say the least...

Ha that's a little call back to a practice of real military marksman, who would often cut the trigger finger off their gloves. Yellow is a nice complimenting colour to green so I wanted some on there to match the yellow in a lot of the decals.

so i got some updates on the RC car. nothing big but i can go ahead an run to some extent once i find the time. the stock shocks are still installed but i got around to gluing the hard drift tires on the aluminum rims. i ordered a 2nd set of aluminum rims and glued them. the original set got painted today but no further progress until i get the tire removal kit in. im going need to get super glue for the soft rubber tires as gorilla glue doesnt seem to work to great as i can still unseat the glued rims without too much force.

i also ordered a aluminum set of brake rotors that function as a locking/contact surface to transfer movement to the tires. one side has the pin locking (holding bearing) and the other side has the hex nut mounting surface for the rim. the plastic ones will eventually break so i got this to avoid stripped hex mounting surfaces that plastic ones could get.


https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58891

EDIT: i just ordered a MG Blitz Gundam. the extra details the MG kit have and its general size did the trick, my wallet will say something else later on though... apparently due to the better color separation of parts, some smaller pieces nay require a bit of glue to stay on there more securely. what is the general consensus on that?

my MG Blitz came in today and im 1 step closer to a full set. thankfully the special mirage colloid version is expensive...
https://forums.animesuki.com/picture...ictureid=58892

Phew at long last my first PG down. I'd be lying if I said it was a fun build, there was lots of very tight fitting parts and an all Japanese manual to contend with. Though I am pretty happy with the end result. Used some third parties decals as I thought the default unicorn set is a little too suble for something so big.

https://i.imgur.com/EQ8AcXn.jpg

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Really would like to pic up a PGU RX78 next but they're impossible to get in my neck of the woods =[

I was at the store today with my son when we came across some Gunpla kits for around $12 piece. My son is starting to get into gundam so what the heck why not, so I bought a HG Barbatos Lupus Rex. It's been a good while since I built a model, probably since my early teens. It's nice i don't have to use that toxic as heck model glue anymore, I think I might to buy some more now. Question is, this was way to complicated for my son to put together (he's 6) is their a simple kit for him to be able to build?
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Yes, HG Barbatos is a bit too much for a 6yo to build considering that it has inner frame that makes it more complex than other HG.

If your son never had any experience building Gunpla before, why not starting with the EG (Entry Grade) Gundam?

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/9qQAA...MXw/s-l400.jpg
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uvXMc5nwf...YHQ/s800/1.jpg

The kit is both simple and great, even better than some of the old HGs. It's also dirt-cheap compared to others :D.

Awesome I checked some of them out. I grew up building model cars and planes so it's a bit different from that

Sharing this coz no other modellers are crazy enough to buy, build & review 1/12 Gundam kit :twitch:.

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ok im new to gundam model, not gonna go hardcore, prob just snap build :)

I saw alot of same gundam models, i ordered this p bandai crossbone today
https://p-bandai.com/sg/item/N2553860001001

I also saw there are many cross bone full cloth in the past, whats the difference?

What you just ordered is the Crossbone Gundam X-0 (Ghost)-version of the Full Cloth. The other Full Cloth kits before it was the Crossbone Gundam X-1 version.

First review of MG Gundam Mk-V.

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HGUC Xi Gundam review is here:

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https://www.gundamkitscollection.com...ctory.html?m=1

This is actually cool as hell, the 1/100 also very cool.

I'm happy Bandai is releasing a weapon/armory set for MG Altron Gundam, Tallgeese II, and Deathscythe Hell. Though its obviously P-bandai.

I was about to purchase the old 100 scale Altron Gundam (TV version) to modify its wing and tail on the MG Altron but now I wont have to! GoL sure did change/add things to EW version.

And the weapons Tallgeese II used on GoL would be great addition. I'm just too much of a fan of the Tallgeese.

Though I didn't realize Deathscythe Hell had additional armour/weapon added when it was on GoL.

Oh look, a Gundam Universe-line figure that's actually good!

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https://omochajapan.com/products/p-b...39378473943129

MG Tallgeese Flugel!

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GU Char's Zaku could've been great, but Bandai just had to cheap out and use the same Gundam hands for this non-Gundam figure. Why Bandai? Why??!

High demand -> Gunpla shortage -> scalpers rising are deadly combination for non-rich modellers/collectors.

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Gundam market might slowly becoming like Transformers market.

^I'm really looking forward to getting this product and I hope the store where I preordered it won't experience delays.