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bio9205 2013-01-03 06:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4497547)
Just a warning though, I started out as a straight build guy too. I have bought the polishing compound and has a wide range of sand papers. It worked WELL, I even think that the polishing compound was unnecessary. It's currently stocked for 3 years now and never had an opportunity of using it again. After doing so, I went on and try topcoating. I don't want my kits to get scratches and everything so topcoating it made sense. Tried it and next thing I know, I'm already doing some minor mods, even tried doing MG Justice myself but hasn't finished it for more than a year now. Point is, it's fun. Don't limit yourself, not unless you don't really have the time. ENJOY airbrushing (I don't have one, LOL!)

Thanks for the advice! I've decided to forget about the polishing compound. Anyway, some questions about topcoating - do I do it before/after I build, and how do I go about doing it? Spraying? With a paintbrush? Also, if I want to say paint/sand/panel line (say I missed a spot) after topcoating, is it still possible? Thanks!

maknaedik 2013-01-03 07:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498566)
Anyway, some questions about topcoating - do I do it before/after I build, and how do I go about doing it? Spraying? With a paintbrush? !

If you're going to topcoat the kit without removing seamlines and you'll just remove the nubmarks, I can recommend doing the ff:

- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks.
- Second, the snapbuild.
- Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines.
- Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything.
- Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it.
- Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything.
- Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches.
- Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498566)
Also, if I want to say paint/sand/panel line (say I missed a spot) after topcoating, is it still possible? Thanks!

- Painting is ok, it will cover up the tocpoat. Better if you strip the paint but I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning to.
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above.
- For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home.

duotiga 2013-01-03 07:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonta Kun (Post 4498250)
....I think you need to go see someone about that:uhoh::heh:

Hope you enjoy building them at least!:D


:heh: only 1 of 4 built :eyespin:

some RGs i have multiple sets also:heh:

bio9205 2013-01-03 07:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4498598)
If you're going to topcoat the kit without removing seamlines and you'll just remove the nubmarks, I can recommend doing the ff:

- First, while building the kit, you can start removing the nubmarks.
- Second, the snapbuild.
- Third, the detailing. This is the part where I put the decals, extra details and panel lines.
- Fourth, observe the kit properly, what are the parts that needs to be topcoated? This will save you the hassle of topcoating each and every part. Sometimes, even the underside has to be tocpoated so better be safe than sorry. This also saves you some topcoat because you don't need to topcoat everything.
- Fifth, I disassemble the kit, not totally, it might depend on the complexity of the kit. Sometimes, some exposed parts can't be reached by spray so you are really required to disassemble it so you can properly spray a coat on it.
- Sixth, check if every exposed part has been properly topcoated. This is also where you check if you missed some panel lines. Yes, you can still line the kit whatever type of finish you choose. Gloss is the easiest since you can erase the line with ease and making the matte/flat the hardest. Tocpoat again if you think it's necessary as panel lines tend to be shinier than the rest. I normally go for two coats as first coats normally don't cover everything.
- Seventh, assemble the kit. Be careful not to make any scratches.
- Eight, savor your hardwork. You'll stare ate it for about 1 week and congratulate yourself for a job well done.

I normally go for spray cans as I don't own airbrush and brushes aren't my specialty.



- Painting is ok, it will cover up the tocpoat. Better if you strip the paint but I haven't done this yet, but I'm planning to.
- Panel lining is ok as well as I have mentioned above.
- For sanding, well, you can. Be warned though that it might produce some discoloration (for flat coats only, I think). I have experienced this quite a lot and I have only experienced one major discoloration as I have already made two thick coats on the part, sanded down my mistake and recoated the area. BOOM! UGLY! Even from afar, the discoloration is quite obvious. Might get the pics later as my kit is in the office but I'm currently at home.

Thanks so much for this. I'm assuming a spray is used? Also, is there a way to remove the topcoat?

As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi - I'm done with its head and torso, it looks so good just out of the box. :heh:

Thanks once again, that was really useful. I'm really busy right now, hopefully I'll be able to find the time to make a trip to my hobby store this week or the next to pick up some topcoat.

EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.)

maknaedik 2013-01-03 09:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)
I'm assuming a spray is used?

Yes

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)
Also, is there a way to remove the topcoat?

Yes, there is. For a surface that is flat (when I mean flat, it means no channels for pane lines, rivets, bumps or anything), you can sand it. If you don't want to go that route, you can strip it just like paint. For lacquer based topcoats, which I use, denatured alcohol is the cheap alternative. Haven't tried this myself yet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)
As for removing the parts - isn't that awfully hard? I've read that one can use a hobby knife to do so, but I'm really afraid of damaging the parts. I'm not sure if I want to try this on my HGUC Sazabi.

Kinda, but there are preparations which you can do like cutting a tiny portion of the pegs that will connect to holes. You actually have to cut it diagonally. Doing this can make disassembling parts easier. I haven't done it actually since I haven't done any major accidents. Yes, I use hobby knife since it's the thinnest of all my tools that I can use to pull apart snapped together parts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4498630)
EDIT: In case you're wondering, all this fuss about polishing is because I sanded the chest portion of my HGUC Sazabi a little too much. I've sanded it to the point where it shines, but if you look closely you can see all the tiny scratch marks. (I'm OCD like that.) There's also some nub marks which I've left around the kit, which I usually do. Normally, I'd sand/file nub marks a bit and colour them with a marker to make them less obvious, not to remove them completely. I'd hate to have to take it apart. (Actually, Bandai did a really good job with the HGUC Sazabi - most of the nub marks are actually hidden. But the ones that are not, stick out like a sore thumb.)

Well, it's kinda risky, but you can always sand the scratches/marks that a hobby knife can leave. Anyway, I haven't had any accidents disassembling parts given that I have a very shaky hands, I think you'll be fine.

Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle.

suiton629 2013-01-03 10:07

What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-03 10:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4498740)
What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

Let me repeat myself from one page ago:
Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4497939)
Instead of thinking too much of what kits to come, asking others about it, and putting on your wishlist again and again and again, why not enjoy what we already get and do something productive like, say, building your backlog of kits. :cool:


suiton629 2013-01-03 10:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4498793)
Let me repeat myself from one page ago:

I could. =) And yes. I do recall you saying something similar.
But I will get to building them when I can, which is why I go for MG's only since they don't come out as much, thus reducing the odds of me overspending and overbuying...ultimately leading to a massive backlog.

FalsePrime 2013-01-03 17:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4498740)
What do you guys think of my currently updated Wishlist?

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/...-wishlist.html

Given how amazing the first four months are for MG's, no need for a wishlist right now really.

TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake.

suiton629 2013-01-03 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by FalsePrime (Post 4499130)
Given how amazing the first four months are for MG's, no need for a wishlist right now really.

TG and SS this early in the year is amazing and even if the rest of the year sucked I would still be incredibly happy with this year as far as Gunpla goes. Jesta and two more RG's for the rest of the year is only icning on the cake.

Well considering I'm not getting the Sinanju Stein MG Ver. Ka nor the Tallgeese EW MG, it wouldn't be "amazing" for me. :rolleyes:

Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 – March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know?

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-03 19:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4499202)
Also, what's up with God Gundam MG and Shining Gundam MG? Are they any good? I know that they're super super old and haven't gotten an updated release, and the series went from April 1, 1994 Ė March 31, 1995. It's been 17 years (give or take a few months). I think it's time? I don't want to buy those 2 kits and then realize how sucky it is compared to the 00, Wing, and Age MG's we got in 2010 ~ 2012 ya know?

Just FYI, MGs from G Gundam are great so far.

Oh, also, can you post a more constructive or positive post in this thread? Almost all your posts here basically can be broken down into two patterns:
  1. Hey guys, this old (insert name) kit sucks. I donít want to buy it. Do you think itíll get a Ver 2.0?
  2. Hey guys, this is my (insert number of repeated times) wishlist. What do you think?

bio9205 2013-01-03 19:46

Don't feed the troll guys, you'll just encourage him to keep doing that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4498674)
Sometimes, it does happen to me. Scratches that are deep down. What I do is I sand the part AGAIN with lower grit, then progress with a finer grit then another finer grit. I use 400-600-1000 grits. I'm not sure if it's the same scale that's available in your place, but that's what I use and maybe it could help. Usally, when I get lazy, I use 180 (for really hard nubs and I'm kinda rushing) then skip to 600. That's when that situation happens to me. I should've used 360 or 400 in the middle.

Wow, those are some tough grits - topcoat smoothens out any rough marks made during sanding, am I right? Also, can I just topcoat the entire kit after assembly?

Anyway, new pics of HG G-Xiphos! :D



Hope the HG Genoace O-Custom rumour is true. These 2 are some of my favourite AGE kits, glad Bandai finally decided to release them.

suiton629 2013-01-03 20:06

http://inb4suiton.blogspot.com/2013/01/blog-post.html

Transformers + Gundam = ?!

maknaedik 2013-01-03 20:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by bio9205 (Post 4499263)
Wow, those are some tough grits - topcoat smoothens out any rough marks made during sanding, am I right? Also, can I just topcoat the entire kit after assembly?

Let's say they hide the marks, but not the deep ones.

Yes, you can topcoat the entire kit after assembly. Just make sure you cover everything and it's even. Avoid topcoating the clear parts. They don't have the same look when you topcoat then.

Jimmy C 2013-01-04 09:48

I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?

Infinite Zenith 2013-01-04 22:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4499772)
I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?

Those sound like dry-transfer decals. Most people would cut them out and then stick it to the region they wish, then gently use their fingers or a utility to rub the decal onto the surface. If they're not dry-transfer decals, then I'd have no idea and may require someone else to step in :heh:

Skye629 2013-01-04 23:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4499772)
I have a problem I hope you guys can help me with. It's not a Gundam model, but it is by Bandai. I was able to put the model together uneventfully, but I ran into trouble with the decals.
At first sight, they looked like the wet transfer decals I had worked with in the past. But when I soaked these in water- for over a minute even!- the decal did not detatch from the paper backing. In fact, it pulled a layer of the paper along with it when it detatched. Then I found out I could actually rub away the layer of paper stuck to the decal without damaging the decal itself. But the decal has no adhesiveness.
So, does anyone have experience with this kind of decals from Bandai? What's the proper way to apply them?

Whats the color of the paper backing, and what year was it made? Thats usually the best indication of what you are handling


For earlier topics: Whoa how come some of you guys use such rough grits? At MOST I use 600, thats when sanding down a big nub Im too afraid to cut with nippers or my hobby knife. From there (Or after I cut using aforementioned tools) I go with 1000 to 1500 and sometimes 2000, which takes some care because you may overpolish the part resulting in a shinier glossier finish (for topcoaters this wont matter too much)

Jimmy C 2013-01-05 02:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skye629 (Post 4500538)
Whats the color of the paper backing, and what year was it made? Thats usually the best indication of what you are handling

The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 03:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500641)
The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?

That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed. :)

firefox 2013-01-05 03:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4500649)
That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed. :)

Nope that's all i've ever seen. Don't know any other type.

Skye629 2013-01-05 04:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4500649)
That sounds like your usual peel-off sticker. As far as I know, Bandai models only have three kinds of decals: standard peel-off (you just have to peel it off and stick it), water-slide (needs water), and dry-transfer (where you just have cut and rub the decal on the spot you want).

If somebody out there knows more, your post here will be very much welcomed. :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500641)
The paper backing is light bluish and it says "Bandai 2012" Does that help?

I thought peel offs were green backed? I havent got any recent MGs yet so idk if they changed it

But from descriptions this sound most likely, rough transfers are ruled out since they're more distinct

Also Bandai does not do waterslides as often as they used to

An easy way to confirm this is angle the page of decals to a good light source and see if you can make out any borders around the markings

Jimmy C 2013-01-05 04:49

There are borders around the markings. They were left behind when the decals detached after immersion.
They're definitely not peel offs because that model kit had a seperate sheet of peel offs.
From what I read, dry transfers don't have borders, so that sheet shouldn't be it.

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 06:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500718)
There are borders around the markings. They were left behind when the decals detached after immersion.
They're definitely not peel offs because that model kit had a seperate sheet of peel offs.
From what I read, dry transfers don't have borders, so that sheet shouldn't be it.

Iíve found the answer :D (after checking on my HG EVA-01 decals). That light blue sheet is a water-slide. How do you apply it?: cut the decals -> soak it on hot water-> wait a few seconds -> take it out -> the decal around the border will slides-off -> put it on the surface of your kit while itís hot (be careful not to tear it apart) -> wait until it dries up and you got yourself a nicely-applied decals. :) I have tried it myself just now.

Jimmy C 2013-01-05 07:16

Hot water? I used cool water. Maybe that's why it didn't work.
How hot is hot enough? I'll try with my shower heater then move on to a boiler if neccessary.

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 07:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500795)
Hot water? I used cool water. Maybe that's why it didn't work.
How hot is hot enough? I'll try with my shower heater then move on to a boiler if neccessary.

Yep, it must be hot water.

It doesn't have to be boiling water. Water from shower-heater is enough. ;)

Jimmy C 2013-01-05 07:48

I'm sorry to report that did not work. While hot water made the decal detach faster, it still pulled a layer of the backing along with it and still had no adhesiveness after the backing was forcibly removed.
As I said before these are unlike the water slide decal I've seen before. Those would fall apart if I rubbed them between my fingers. These are thick, I rubbed them to remove the backing and the decal itself was intact.
Any other suggestions?

maknaedik 2013-01-05 07:53

Amm, has anyone bought the decals for HG Qan[T]'s Full Saber? It ain't exactly decals, I don't even know how to call it. But it's a peel-off that I thought was a water slide. I actually went and soak it in water. It attached itself to its backing paper. I effed up, LOL!

It doesn't have a border, you have to cut it manually. According to the magazine, it shows that you actually need water? Maybe to make it more adhesive? Not sure though since it's in Japanese.

Jimmy C 2013-01-05 08:03

I just tried that! It's a peel off like you said, I don't believe this!
Well, I can finish my model now, thanks!

maknaedik 2013-01-05 08:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy C (Post 4500819)
I just tried that! It's a peel off like you said, I don't believe this!
Well, I can finish my model now, thanks!

Glad I was able to help. I can't believe that was that though XD

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 08:05

So, it's a peel-off after all, huh. Should've stay on my first guess ^^.

maknaedik 2013-01-05 08:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4500822)
So, it's a peel-off after all, huh. Should've stay on my first guess ^^.

Should've labeled it as "unfriendly peel-off" or "water-slide wannabe". Whatever soothes your taste XD

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 09:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4500825)
Should've labeled it as "unfriendly peel-off" or "water-slide wannabe". Whatever soothes your taste XD

Yeah. It makes me curious just what Bandai kit Jimmy is working on. I suppose it's not from Evangelion or Patlabor line. Could be from Macross line.

Appel 2013-01-05 11:06

http://www.abload.de/img/dsc_2319z1qq6.jpg
DSLRs are SO much fun to play with^^

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 11:12

That looks quite dramatic ^^.

suiton629 2013-01-05 11:15

Why is it that Wing Gundam Zero (TV) never gets anything? O_o

maknaedik 2013-01-05 11:22



Hey Bandai, such a tease XD

Obelisk ze Tormentor 2013-01-05 11:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4500957)
Why is it that Wing Gundam Zero (TV) never gets anything? O_o

What the hell do you mean? WZ TV got made into HG 1/100 and HG 1/60 (not to mention action figure like RD and others). Not every MS got made into HG 1/60 model, you know. And donít even ask us about the MG. All of us donít know what Bandai will make in the future.

suiton629 2013-01-05 11:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Obelisk ze Tormentor (Post 4500968)
What the hell do you mean? WZ TV got made into HG 1/100 and HG 1/60 (not to mention action figure like RD and others). Not every MS got made into HG 1/60 model, you know. And donít even ask us about the MG. All of us donít know what Bandai will make in the future.

With the Wing Gundam (TV) that came out in 2010, I was wondering why such a delay in taking the next obvious release...as well as an updated Endless Waltz movie version.

maknaedik 2013-01-05 11:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by suiton629 (Post 4500969)
With the Wing Gundam (TV) that came out in 2010, I was wondering why such a delay in taking the next obvious release...as well as an updated Endless Waltz movie version.

Obvious? LOL! What explanation do you need to shut? I think even if Bandai says, "a comet will hit earth if we release an MG Exia R2" won't be enough. Yes, you're that selfish, HAHA!

MG Strike Rouge Remastered and MG Sazabi ver Ka please :)

suiton629 2013-01-05 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by maknaedik (Post 4500977)
Obvious? LOL! What explanation do you need to shut? I think even if Bandai says, "a comet will hit earth if we release an MG Exia R2" won't be enough. Yes, you're that selfish, HAHA!

MG Strike Rouge Remastered and MG Sazabi ver Ka please :)

We had enough of Seed and UC releases in 2012. Give some 00, Age, Wing, and maybe even X and G a chance.


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