Looks like he was hastily put together :heh:

And his hands....3 fingers stuck together....feet too small? Can legs rotate? Please noooooo :heh: :heh:

That's because the HG 1/144 Strike was based of Okawara's lineart whereas the MG Strike was based on BEECRAFT lineart.

However since the 1/144 HG Strike Noir was based of a BEECRAFT design in the first place....how can you fault them with the MG Strike Noir being just a larger scale representation.

I don't recall anyone complaining that the 1/144 HG Freedom, 1/100 Freedom, 1/60 Freedom just looked like bigger versions of the same thing.

Yes , if it looks the "same", but it doesn't look the same. It's also at a bigger scale. And sure enough 99.9% will not be posting their MG in that pose but because of the higher posability, they will have more freedom on choosing what pose to display their MG at.

since they are about to release a 1/100 Akatsuki, the chances of a Mg version is pretty slim. I want a Mg Akatsuki too but it don't look like it's going to happen anytime soon. But you never know, since it use the same frame, Bandai might milk it a bit more.:D

There's tons of people that was complaining, along with questions regarding which Freedom to get. If anyone recomend anything other then the MG, you will instantly see someone saying that the 1/60 is really just a bigger version with moveable fingers of the 1/100 which is just a bigger version of the 1/144 HG that require less stickers.

But there are still people that like the 1/60 Freedom just the way it is :confused: mainly because they like their MS in bigger sizes.

seems like it uses the HG Boxart pose...nevertheless looking forward to it:D

You took my statement out of context. No one was complaining when the different scale Freedom kits came out. That's what the scales are there for, different sizes of the same thing. There shouldn't be any design differences between the scales. The "grade" system Bandai has is something different all together.

I've only seen one version of the Strike Noir lineart, and that was the one designed by Bee-Craft and cleaned up by Okawara I believe. And the HG 1/144 is considerably different from the lineart, which looks fat and short. The model itself is considerably sleeker, which is probably due to Bee-Craft.

And the MG also has some design changes, like the knees for example. The MG version looks okay so far, but if they're reusing the outdated Strike inner frame I'll pass.

isnt it the other way around?

The initial lineart we got of Noir was clearly an Okawara. The HG and Mg kit is based off of the much more sexier BEE-CRAFT version

my bad, I though you were talking about the grading system. but yeah, if it's just the scale system then those 1/144, 1/100, and 1/60 Freedom would make a pretty good example.:)

I don't see any mention of Okawara in the original Noir lineart.

The proportions and perspective of the lineart itself though says it was touched up by Okawara, as his style hasn't changed much through the decades.

I'm pretty sure that Bee-Craft was responsible for the Strike Noir design, while Okawara cleaned it up. The problem is, I don't remember where I read that.

But if you take a look at the lineart, it's easy to tell. Compare the official lineart that's posted on the Stargazer site, vs the MG lineart that was recently released. Completely different.

Sorry to interrrupt the Strike Noir discussion, but I would like some advice.
I want a MG Strike Rouge IWSP, but I do not want to buy both kits and end up with an extra Aile Strike. So what I want to do is to buy the MG Strike IWSP, and paint it into a Strike Rouge.
The questions is: Which paint colors, and from which companies, match the Strike Rouge? I counted three different pinks: the chest pink, the waist pink, and the light pink everywhere else. I'm assuming the greys are the same among the Strikes, so that shouldn't be an issue.

yea, cuz the new cleaned up lineart of the MG is BEE-CRAFT's, not Okawara's.

The original lineart's style is that of Okawara's...simply compare it to the other SEED mecha he's done, its easy to tell.

My mistake, I lumped the Blu Duel, Verde Buster, Rosso Aegis, and Neros Blitz with the Noir.

Believe there was a site posted on here a long time ago that had parts of the instructions from model kits on it. What you'd want to look for is the painting section from the middle of the strike rouge kit. It'd be in Japanese though but a little time spent with babelfish and you could translate it. Sorry can't be any real help but maybe somebody else will remember the site I'm talking about.

- You may need to look up someone, a friend maybe, who has the manual for any of the Strike Rouge models (HG, MG, or PG) --if you want to be absolutely spot-on.

Bandai usually indicates Gundam Colors or Mr Color paints in their paint list. The most accurate colors would be the Gundam Colors/Markers, but I'll leave it up to you if it's worth getting them all for one or two models.

For most of the Mr. color paint lists, it's not a straight out-of-bottle solution; they sometimes indicate, say: Monza Red (20%) + White (75%) + Indy Blue(5%). Depending on how skilled you are in terms of paint blending, it could be great or an absolute mess. I've only mixed paints for my kits twice, and they haven't been the best of blends. My brother, who's a Tamiya car modeller, is a lot better at it than I am.

Another way--a bit harder, but IMHO worth the effort, would be to get an accurate color pic of the Strike Rouge, then head on over to a local hobby shop for paints. You'll have to decide what kind of paints (Enamel, Acrylic, Lacquer spray), but in my experience most model shop guys are really helpful in pointing out specific shades of a color, and you can even ask them questions on how the paint looks, how they react to other paints, etc. In fact, I encourage you to ask their advice if you're serious about wanting to build a better model.

I know this sounds kinda complicated to model, but after thinking for awhile, i was wondering is it possible to recreate the WoL for the MG SF using optic fibres? They seem to b small enough to cramp then in the wings. So whats the posibility and where to find it?

Not to mention the amount of work or lack of it to required in order to achieve the desired position when you are working for the diorama without fixing the joints... ^__^

Do you mean this site?

http://www.dalong.net/

Can't think of any other site right now, but this is right off the top of my head and it seems quite good enough.:)