well im trying to kitbash a mg freedom and a no grade strike freedom. It was going along good but i hate the non grade strike freedom wings doesn anyone have a tip maybe modify them so they look more mg-ish. Since im using the waist of the non grade freedom the stand doesnt work anymore. Does anyone know how to make a stand that would work for it.

can't help you much mate as I'm from Down Under.
I usually get the extra decals and marker from local hoby shop at Chinatown or when local railwayy model shop is having sales day.

Can anyone suggest an acrylic paint that will give me the same gold mirror finish the Akatsuki has? The only paint I can find is Tamiya's Gold Leaf, but I'm not sure that'll be the right one to get the same look.

Also, as far as that would go, what would be the best blend of Future to use to keep the shine? Something tells me full gloss is too shiny, but I'm thinking a 90-10% FFA-Flat Base for a satin sheen would work.

Akatsuki's finish is gold Crome finish, it's the bling bling glosses gold color.

T's Gold Left will not give you the same look.

I know they have crome spray paint at Auto part shops so maybe you can use those.

The thing is, I don't want to use canned spray, I want to use something I can use in my airbrush.

What I am thinking is since it looks like Bandai uses the silver chrome with a transparant layer of an almost yellow-orange color on top(based on trying to strip the chrome from the Akatsuki and only getting it stripped down to the silver), if I can find a chrome spray, I can experiment with a translucent color over the top.

If that fails, I suppose I'll have to find a nice gold color...anyone thats built a Hyaku Shiki have any suggestions for a good gold color other than chrome?

I have most of tamiya acrylic colors, there is another gold called titanium gold I think and its more shiny than the Gold leaf but I didnt try it yet ... or didnt try most of the colors :p
but I think I'll give it a try as 1st coat of titanium gold and a thined gold leaf as a 2nd coat.

The extreme method is Alcad Yellow Chrome (I think it exists). Another option is to get some Tamiya Gold Polycarb/Laquer spray which you can then wax and buff to a shine.
I don't think a true reflective coating is physically possible with acrylic paints, as they never have a true bling edge to them. The best you could probably manage is painting it gold then giving it a good wash of un-flattened Future Floor Wax.

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/562...11353393os.jpg

MG F-91?

Screw F91! Make a PG Dendobrium Orchis!*just kidding*

Although I really do want a PG orchis...

you can make a PG youre self since its freaking big so you'll buy lot of PlaPlates or plastic sheets and glue them togther, or maybe you can make it out of metal :p
And screw F91 again !

Anyone can help me to improve this pose
http://photobucket.com/albums/y206/aeb3000/DSC01585.jpg
please commit :D (still painting blitz& of course I'll make a stand or diorama)

i always think a MS Pelvic Thrust Attack pose is good =D,

The strike should be 'leaning' into the attack more if possible, and maybe for a hardcore diorama do the sword going into the cockpit and some blood splatter =D

BLOOD :D , thats evil :D but I already did the cocpit damage and tomorrow ill be painting the black parts, pannels, and wethering :D

Ill think about you're "leaning into"thnks man

Also, I suggest that you display it on the other side, because the arms basicly cover up the action. Also, make it look like Blitz really took the hit, because this is a multi-tonne sword going in here.

A little weathering on both suits would work, because they both took damage(okay, not so much for the strike, but.... whatever), and it would just in general make it look better. As The Marshal said, a little bit of blood coming out would be cool, but also note that you should make the cockpit area look crushed if you want to do that(basicly, you'd have to tear apart the cockpit part of the chest, and then make it look like it was done in combat).

Question... Are Gundam kits counted as "hard" plastic which need enamel paints, or "soft" plastic which need acrylic?

Question Two... I think Fatty Chalupa mentioned some time ago about a replacement service for kit parts. Is there actually such a thing, and how much does it cost? I will never know if I will need such a service...

You can use either. Personally I use acrylics - easier and less toxic to work with.

I actually tried sending an email a few weeks ago. You send an email to bandaiactionkit@bandai.co.jp

Thank you for purchasing our products and the time to email us. Regarding the
replacement, please read our replacement policy.

1. We accept free replacement for any defection or missing parts if it occurred
in our production line or during the transportation. We need to see a picture
of broken parts or a sprew that has missing parts in the unwrapped plastic bags
when you ask for a replacement.

2. We also accept a replacement for broken parts or missing parts which
occurred under customer's responsibility. This replacement will be done free of
charge but it will be only one time deal. Limited within 4 pieces of parts.

Your case will be policy #2. If this policy would be well for you, we will
prepare the spare part and send it to you for free. If you have any questions,
please feel free to contact us.

So yeah, I'm waiting for my Wing Zero Custom G3 and G4 parts since i clipped off those nub like things that hold the "feathers" :heh:

Gundam plastic is hard but the 1/144HG scale comes with some soft joints and hand sometimes, anyway using Acrilyics is the best then give it some flat or gloss finish coat, and some use enemls but most pros use it for pannels only so they can clean around using its thinner which will not effect the acrylic alot ;) :D

HRDUUUDU detected, for anyone who needs the dengeki mag with its hrududu for Gundam Hazel series check this seller from philip. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=6040451023

Ya about "blood" out of blitz cocpit... I dont think its some superrobots anime guys :D and the blitz blow up after taking the damage so there wasnt enought time for the pilot blood to fill the cocpit by then :p , currently am working on panels and weathring :D

The basic build was done by my friend who built that Zaku II F2 Custom but I modified it fair a bit though.
As you can see he's more into clean finish whereas I do fair bit of shading. Still must say it looks good with extended legs, arms and I put magnet to attach the shield - so it won't scratch the paint plus decaling... :confused7vi: I will see whether he saved the WIP pictures...

ok. 'nuff talk from me.
here are what you all wanted, pictures.
The last picture is taken with my Gundam Kai to show its height which is taller than stanard MG Gundam...:shy0hz:

pic1
pic2
pic3
pic4

and here's service shot! :winks2ft:
action pose

He freaked out when he found out this photo... :em01:
But since he asked me to make the base well I need to test its mobility to come up with some idea... :redface7be:

Nice , maybe I'll get one :D

You did a great job with you're ver.Kai, ;) you may collect couple of votes in the contest there

http://s9.invisionfree.com/Penetrate...p?showforum=68 (if anyone intrested in fighting the way through the 1st place for a Zetav2.0 :D )