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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Tormenk 2009-04-28 08:29
I'll go with the second design. The wide breath fits well with the bulky feel of the Virtue and the blades have enough area to cover it in intricate designs, which would go well with the warhammer theme.

Vandalier 2009-04-28 08:47
it's give me dillema

because design one have the chaos lord mark

vektar 2009-04-28 09:37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vandalier (Post 2366652)
it's give me dillema

because design one have the chaos lord mark
I liked the 3rd one myself. Simple yet effective.

MrCapcom 2009-04-28 09:40
IF your designing the blade yourself why not have the dragon part the head and wrap his tale on the pole and have his wings in such a manor to llook like the blades of the axe

Amber.Dawn 2009-04-28 09:41
I think the second fits Virtue better. Although I prefer single bladed weapons myself.

nevenacheese 2009-04-28 10:40
finaly done with sanding and washing the pieces of the blitz 1/144 i mentioned here earlier.... i was lucky that he mainly used water based paints so i could wash it out....

but that brat also used an heated screwdriver to remove the parts that connect to te frame/window... the area is now an mm thinner.....
and is it normal to have seamlines larger then 1-2mm? i tried to sand and adding layers where needed but still theres a clearly visible seamlime....

and for the new painting:
can i directly paint on the plastic or do i have to add an base layer?
and i normaly paint kits by taping the places i dont want to paint and then remove the tape..
is this also possible for gunpla?

JayCee 2009-04-28 10:56
Quote:
Originally Posted by nevenacheese (Post 2366774)
finaly done with sanding and washing the pieces of the blitz 1/144 i mentioned here earlier.... i was lucky that he mainly used water based paints so i could wash it out....

but that brat also used an heated screwdriver to remove the parts that connect to te frame/window... the area is now an mm thinner.....
and is it normal to have seamlines larger then 1-2mm? i tried to sand and adding layers where needed but still theres a clearly visible seamlime....

and for the new painting:
can i directly paint on the plastic or do i have to add an base layer?
and i normaly paint kits by taping the places i dont want to paint and then remove the tape..
is this also possible for gunpla?
Sounds like to get rid of the seamline you need cement specifically for plastic kits to melt the 2 pieces together and then layer with putty and sand to give a smooth look. Well that's a no-brainer method to me. Though you can feel free to try a different method.

As for painting you can paint directly onto plastic. Although priming is usually recommended so that the paint adheres to the plastic better and it also shows any surface errors or incorrections with seams etc. Yes you can use tape to mask areas. Be sure to use masking tape though.

rocawarde 2009-04-28 15:12
Hi, I'm new to the forum. and i have to ask if anyone know of any websites that show Gundam Mocs?!!? especially from Gundam 00?

Something similar to this: http://www.modelers-g.jp/

ryanvamp 2009-04-28 16:53
what is the best to "correct" the seamlines, btw? Cause the only one I know (putting cement and then scratching the left-over from the seamline, not exactly how it's done but you get the idea) messes up the kit if you're not going to paint it later.

On an additional note, since some pieces tend to break when you try to dissamble your model, I guess the erasing of seamlines is one of the first steps while putting the kit together, right ?

Karidzka 2009-04-28 20:05
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasagi Yabu (Post 2366529)
hmm..ok thanks everyone! I think I'm going to start off with an HG like everyone is suggesting. I love the strike so I think I may start with that. Accguy is simple I'm sure but I never liked that suit to be honest.
... don'tstart with HG fromm seed series, they have a lot of problem

HGUC is a better one ....

well 00 HG also good, but UC better lol

Okamidum 2009-04-28 20:49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karidzka (Post 2367694)
... don'tstart with HG fromm seed series, they have a lot of problem

HGUC is a better one ....

well 00 HG also good, but UC better lol
Just curious, mind elaborating on why the seed HG's were bad. I agree with the 00 and UC though. 00 really impressed me.

Kelrys 2009-04-28 23:00
Just for beginners, HG Seed needs more painting, most parts are molded in one color. I think 00 HG is better.

jackyng222 2009-04-28 23:48
Thanks, I just needed to know that. The extra finish freedom should look better with panel lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2366188)
If you're relativey quick you can erase the markers. But they tend to leave some sort of smudge or residue behind anyhow. I usually avoid using them and just use paint instead. However because of the finish it should be extra runny compare to usual so gives you a little more time to wipe off in case of accidents.



If you really are a beginner. You should really start at High grade model rather than MG even though most people would say MG isn't hard. Yes putting together a gundam even at perfect grade isn't hard if you're just snap fitting everything. Doing it properly requires some skill. Erasing seam lines, sanding, cementing pieces together, puttying, prime & paint, panel lines, coating etc. Stuff like that is best on practising on a more affordable basis like the HG models until you get you're skills up to scratch. I may sound longwinded but there is no easy way to climb up a progress ladder in anything so it obviously applies to gunplay too. You can't just take a ladder and expect to be at the top without putting effort into climbing it. Start off right and you won't have to go back and relearn things from scratch again at a later date.

Once you're confident on at least say working with panel lining, sanding and coating as bare minimum then I would think about MG grades. Unless of course you have a lot of mulah to spend on Gunplay and doing mind messing a few in the progress of learning your skills.

Though if you must start off with MG. Try any of the original RX-78 series. The frame and general bulk and less sophistication makes it less of a work when it comes to removing seam lines and panel lining.

That's my 2 cents anyway

GrahamAker 2009-04-29 00:14
whats the difference between nu gundam and hi nu gundam?

Rising Dragon 2009-04-29 01:51
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhus12 (Post 2367937)
whats the difference between nu gundam and hi nu gundam?
Apparently, completion. The Nu Gundam is supposedly an incomplete suit; the Hi-Nu Gundam is the completed version of the Nu Gundam, which appeared in the novel, Beltorchika's Children. Other differences are the paint scheme and cosmetic details in the armor, along with specialized racks for the Fin Funnels, and different weaponry.

JayCee 2009-04-29 02:16
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocawarde (Post 2367258)
Hi, I'm new to the forum. and i have to ask if anyone know of any websites that show Gundam Mocs?!!? especially from Gundam 00?

Something similar to this: http://www.modelers-g.jp/
Not sure what you mean by mocs. I'll assume you mean mod. Try hobbyfanatics forum. Quite a few veteran builders hanging around there showing WIP and completed models

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanvamp (Post 2367389)
what is the best to "correct" the seamlines, btw? Cause the only one I know (putting cement and then scratching the left-over from the seamline, not exactly how it's done but you get the idea) messes up the kit if you're not going to paint it later.

On an additional note, since some pieces tend to break when you try to dissamble your model, I guess the erasing of seamlines is one of the first steps while putting the kit together, right ?
Cement and puttying is pretty much the correct way to do it. Along with a lot of sanding to follow. It's not something you worry about messing. Because if you are going to work with puttying you're expected to be painting anyway.Also yes erasing seamlines is pretty much one of the earlier steps along with any modifications you wish to slap onto your kit. However here's a tip when it comes disassembling kits without breaking it. Most parts have the piece of plastic that slots into other pieces right? Snip it at an angle so that it can fit into the slots where it should go but not enough for it to be tight fit. That way you can assemble and disassemble without worrying about breaking. Then when you're ready with whatever you need to do you can start to get rid of seamline and cement etc. Usuaully I do that for pieces like the head where it's almost impossible to disassemble so I snip the extension piece that slots in at an angle so it's not a tight fit.

ryanvamp 2009-04-29 08:03
I see, good advices as always Jaycee. Thanks. I'll guess I look for videos on youtube about the matter, since it's always a good guide also

Karidzka 2009-04-29 08:35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelrys (Post 2367868)
Just for beginners, HG Seed needs more painting, most parts are molded in one color. I think 00 HG is better.
and there is seamline that's hard to remove

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...a/IMG_4038.jpg

ahh MG IJ looks so cool lol

Sir Dearka 2009-04-29 17:38
Arche release! My last Gundam purchase until anything interesting surfaces (which'd probably be released in August or later, probably).


Taken from ngee khiong:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dW7jdVzJn8...0990491464.jpg

The fang containers can be opened.

LordStrike 2009-04-29 21:21
ill prob will buy the arche gundam and 2 0 gundam i will paint one like the roll out version and leave the other one last ep colors


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