The hands u want u get the fingers and palm and thumb u dont get an extra wrist ball or top cover to keep the fingers on
|
Any input on the hy2m heads? Do they turn out any good? Or they a waste of time and money?
|
You can see them here: http://www.dalong.net/review/hy2m/hyh01/hyh01.htm
They use a magnet to turn on, which.....is a bit odd to me lol. And they look different than their MG counterparts, and some are chrome plated I think. Visit Dalong's site to see for yourself if they are good or not :) |
Oh ok cause I have seen some resin kit ones that look amazing but they were bigger like 1/72 or 1/48 any one done ones other than the group1 cause thats all dalong has on his site. Cause I like the group 5 zz heads on the models just wondering if these heads come out good. Cause I probly have something wrong with me but for some reason since I have started working MG models every time I look at a lower grade and it just looks like trash and not worth doing. It really pains me when I look at models like the no grade destiny, Ijustice, gold frame amatsu, oowashi aksutsuki, blue frame astray 2nd L. To see such amazing looking models with such bad detail compaired to that of mastergrades. That make me to elitest? Are there others who think the same or should I just smack my self and get them?
|
Quote:
Quote:
As for gluing resin kits. Most resin kits should be pinned in conjunction to gluing. Insert a metal rod (paper clip size) and use either an epoxy type glue or CA glue (super glue) I would recommend using epoxy style glue over CA/super glue because CA type glues are a little on the brittle side and does not have the strength against weight stress. Since resin kits are usually solid and not thin hollow pieces like the typical bandai plastic kits, they weigh considerably more - another reason to use an epoxy style glue. Since the epoxy glues, are not brittle once they dry. Polystyrene cements are formulated for polystyrene, so they obviously will not work on resin, great for melting plastic kits together tho. |
Shoud I top coat the whole model put together in one shot, or part by part?
|
Quote:
Reason for this is you get the parts assembled and painted (if you paint) then get a well rounded spray on the overall sections such that when you repose them, you don't end up with an area where the spray didn't get to and have a discolored look. If you are spraying topcoat with an airbrush, then it doesn't matter so much since with an airbrush you can get some pin point accuracy with the top coat. Regardless, it's just much easier to spray section by section. It's not as tedious as spraying part by part, and not as cumbersome as spraying the kit as a whole. Of course, if you meant part by part as what I meant by section by section... just dismiss my inane ramblings :) |
I'm thinking of buying MG 1/100 Wing Zero Custom, Wing Gundam Ver. Ka and Freedom Gundam from Hobby Link Japan, but I want to first ask how is the shipping to those who have bought model kits from Hobby Link. How long did it take? How was the condition of the package when it arrived? Did you have any problems? It also seems Wing Gundam Ver. Ka doesn't have a stand included so I would have to buy one separately?
|
Quote:
|
Thanks for the advice!
|
about the HGUC Gaplant TR5
what are the opinions about this kit ? i find it looks fabulous but then again its kinda expensive one it costs even more then the normal gaplant cuz i am in kinda dilemma, should i go for a Hazel or a Gaplant or a MG God ? |
Where do you guys find out information about upcoming models? Like I know the crossbone full cloth is set to release this month but do any of you know a exact release date?
|
Quote:
from gunota but i am not sure when its released |
Bandai usually posts the exact release dates for their merchandise on their hobby site. However they haven't posted anything for January yet, so we'll just have to wait until then.
|
hey guys i would like to know if the TAMIYA GOLD SPRAY CAN would be a good gold color to put on those non-gold plated parts of SF.
|
Quote:
Quote:
1.) If you're an ace modeller, you could cement some of the parts before assembly and re-model the part to fit after assembly--this is what some of the guys at Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby do. They actually re-cut the parts sometimes so that the original seam line is cemented and sanded out, while the 'cut' area is either unseen or falls on an existing 'detail' line. This takes a lot of skill, IMHO, since you could easily foul up and end up cutting too much of a part, or making too large of a gap. 2.) A second method is to sand or putty the seam line after assembly, then paint it afterwards. But that depends on how the part is put together, and how good you are at minute details. This is what I usually do, but I'm not all that good with this (my F90 A/D/S, for example, has some bits of messiness I really need to work on). If you're good with an airbrush, that might make things easier. Quote:
Basically, it's just a recolor of the older HGUC Gaplant, with a different head and new weapons (Long Blade Rifle, and "Hrududu 2" Claw units), and it doesn't have the Booster. It costs a bit more because there are more moving parts in the TR-5 are a bit more complex than the old Gaplant Booster. But the posability and detail are pretty much like the old Gaplant, so if you're expecting something as posable as the Hazel Custom/Advanced Hazel, you might be dissapointed. Also, since this is a recolor of the old Gaplant, that means there are no clear Beam Saber blades for this--you'll have to paint the saber or use one from the other MS kits. |
Quote:
|
^not a good idea.
Stubs/cut marks will be blatantly visible when the part is cut off from the runner. |
Quote:
It could be that the resin you had was poor quality resin. But if you are making a blanket statement that resin is much harder than ip plastic, based on one kit - I would suggest you try a few more resin kits out. |
Quote:
Your not! I've been building MG and PG gundams for the past seven months, and found that the detail especially in the PG to be beyond par with the rest. Okay the PG may cost a hellava lot more here in New Zealand (around 330.00!!) and the MG come in around 110.00, from which I personally order from a importer that gets them through Hong Kong. But the detail is something that keeps me coming back for another, and when painted (sprayed is my preference) they look fantastic. So your not elitest in anyway, you just fancy the more finer things in what you spend your cash on. Cheers and good luck to the future. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 23:05. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.