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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

duotiga 2010-04-19 07:22

done with reborns gundam
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o...9042010270.jpg

X207 2010-04-19 13:35

has anyone used milliput (silver grey)? i plan to fill in the holes in the SD gunner zaku sheild (unserside). atm ive tried palying around with the stuuf without applying it to a model as a test. its rather sticky and leaves marks on hands/gloves after mixing, when is the best time to mold it?

GameraBaenre 2010-04-19 14:11

With miliput putty, just mix it, apply it where you want, then let it set up over night or however long it takes to cure. Then sand it smooth, or carve it with a hobby knife. I recommend sanding over carving, but if you are sculpting, you may want to carve it.

You can also shape and mold it before it cures to get the desired shape, then let it set up. You still need to sand it to smooth it out and do the final shaping.

X207 2010-04-19 16:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 3011065)
With miliput putty, just mix it, apply it where you want, then let it set up over night or however long it takes to cure. Then sand it smooth, or carve it with a hobby knife. I recommend sanding over carving, but if you are sculpting, you may want to carve it.

You can also shape and mold it before it cures to get the desired shape, then let it set up. You still need to sand it to smooth it out and do the final shaping.

thank you very much gamera, the one i have dries within 2-3 hours. i decided to try it out an a small section of the SD gunner zaku rifle after i waited about 45-50 minutes to let it get a bit drier. it turned out decently after i got some water to regain some degree of maleability. i defintely agree with you to sand it down. the product i had was sitting on the store shelf for god knows how long so one of the 2 sticks was drier than the other one. most of the putty turned out rather nicely aside from some drier areas from that stick. i think i'll leave it 5hrs or more to cure.

i just need to let the putty cure, sand and paint it to the correct colour. if anyone is using humbrol and wants to matt a gloss color, use the humbrol matt cote (28ML glass jar) if you dont want a spray can. matt varnish is more like yellow satin varnish. well mixed matt cote does a nice job and dries fast as long as you mix all the white silica. you can adjust the silica proportions by putting aside the top layer of liquid to matt it more.

loon1688 2010-04-19 23:43

HGUC Nu-Gundam
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...on1688/nu2.jpg
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...on1688/nu3.jpg
http://i900.photobucket.com/albums/a...on1688/nu1.jpg

ccssneo 2010-04-20 01:48

Can anyone tell me how i get a matte look to my gundams? They're already airbrushed with paints and i was wondering is there like a coating i can put on.

GameraBaenre 2010-04-20 02:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by ccssneo (Post 3011839)
Can anyone tell me how i get a matte look to my gundams? They're already airbrushed with paints and i was wondering is there like a coating i can put on.

Yeah, spray on a clear flat or clear semi gloss - depending on what you prefer. Gunze Sangyo makes two varieties, a lacquer based called Mr Super Clear (Gloss/Flat/semi gloss) or the acrylic based Mr Top Coat (gloss/flat/semi gloss) There are other brands like Model Masters which is just called dullcoat. Yet another option is to get some flat base (most model paint brands have their own flat base) and you can mix this with a clear gloss (acrylic: future floor polish or tamiya acrylic clear) and spray it out of your airbrush.

Mr Super clear also comes in bottle form which is how i get it and I just thin it appropriately and spray it over my kits to get the desired finish.

For example, I just finished this kit today. Well, all the clear coats have dried and I have a mix of clear gloss and clear flat on the different colors:

Close up:
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/gnx%20033_jpg.jpg

Full size:
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/gnx%20035_jpg.jpg

More pictures and information about this project build is here: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=1029

duotiga 2010-04-20 07:19

wow loon1688 you seems like is hg gunpla factory...so fast make so many kits lol =x

Sworra 2010-04-20 07:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 3011876)

For example, I just finished this kit today. Well, all the clear coats have dried and I have a mix of clear gloss and clear flat on the different colors:

Close up:
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/gnx%20033_jpg.jpg

Full size:
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/gnx%20035_jpg.jpg

More pictures and information about this project build is here: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=1029

That is some Excellent work Gamerabaenre. I love the metallic dark blue color scheme you have. It sets the tone with the other blueish color that is on the kit. :) Awesome Job.

RAVNEN 2010-04-20 08:14

Finally finish my very first MG kit...i'm very satisfied with it. A very solid MG eventhough the side skirt fall when i try to do the high heel kick...:D Anyway Serpent Tail unit 1 & Serpent Tail unit 2...hehe

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/732/photo0796v.th.jpg

DC23 2010-04-20 09:20

Ello guys, just sharing how to paint a simple mountain diorama for your Gundam kits...Painting a mountain diorama

X207 2010-04-20 10:21

i have a few questions on matt finishes. have any of you tried matt coat products that dont come in spray cans? i dont mind either that much but the can fumes do get to me once in a while. ive used super clear flat on my garrazzo and i also have tamiya flat clear (yet to try flat clear). as you people have metioned before the sprays need to be 6-8 inches away so it wont be too much to frost the paint. is it all like this for any paint you apply to a kit? i know different paint brands often have their own products to dull a finish off. humbrol has matt varnish 49 (absolute inneffective) and matt cote (rather good). the matt coat can have quite a good coat and it wont frost under most conditions. im sure that it could frost if theres too much silica in proportion to the other liquid. Are all the dulling agents made by the same company effective even if you put a consistent thin layer on? ie can tamiya flat still frost a tamiya paint if you spray too close.

GameraBaenre 2010-04-20 12:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by X207 (Post 3012319)
i have a few questions on matt finishes. have any of you tried matt coat products that dont come in spray cans? i dont mind either that much but the can fumes do get to me once in a while. ive used super clear flat on my garrazzo and i also have tamiya flat clear (yet to try flat clear). as you people have metioned before the sprays need to be 6-8 inches away so it wont be too much to frost the paint. is it all like this for any paint you apply to a kit? i know different paint brands often have their own products to dull a finish off. humbrol has matt varnish 49 (absolute inneffective) and matt cote (rather good). the matt coat can have quite a good coat and it wont frost under most conditions. im sure that it could frost if theres too much silica in proportion to the other liquid. Are all the dulling agents made by the same company effective even if you put a consistent thin layer on? ie can tamiya flat still frost a tamiya paint if you spray too close.

From spray cans, the frosting comes from spraying TOO MUCH paint onto the kit. Hence the recommendation to spray from a farther distance so that the chance of spraying too much paint is reduced.

I do not use spray cans. I use clear (flat, semi gloss, and gloss) sprayed through my airbrush. If you cannot find the bottle form of your favorite clear, you can always decant the stuff from spray cans to use in the airbrush: http://gamerabaenre.com/decanting.htm

Since you have so much more control with the airbrush, you can spray closer and not worry about blasting the part with too much flat that will frost up the kit. Hope this makes sense.

X207 2010-04-20 13:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 3012487)
From spray cans, the frosting comes from spraying TOO MUCH paint onto the kit. Hence the recommendation to spray from a farther distance so that the chance of spraying too much paint is reduced.

I do not use spray cans. I use clear (flat, semi gloss, and gloss) sprayed through my airbrush. If you cannot find the bottle form of your favorite clear, you can always decant the stuff from spray cans to use in the airbrush: http://gamerabaenre.com/decanting.htm

Since you have so much more control with the airbrush, you can spray closer and not worry about blasting the part with too much flat that will frost up the kit. Hope this makes sense.

thank you again gamera. surprisingly im not much of a fan for air brushes. i started off with handbrushes and its one of the ways im comfortable. i just never got into the air brushes. if i had a air compressor handy i'd probably so. its the first time i ever knew you could decant a spray can. it takes a while does it?

ive tried to painting over the putty on the SD zaku undersude of the sheild. the putty wasnt 100 smooth and the paint is cracked after drying. ive repainted over it hoping it'll fill in the gaps. it still shows the cracks, is there any tips to fix this? so far i can only keep putting paint to fill in the gaps and maybe sanding down the paint.

GameraBaenre 2010-04-20 16:51

If the paint cracks, it's best to sand it smooth and just repaint it. You'll end up doing more work and piling on more paint if you keep trying to fill it.

Decanting doesn't take long. You just need to make sure you degas the paint, or it'll explode on you as it's fairly volatile right out of the can. It the degassing process that may take long or not long depending on your method of degassing.

X207 2010-04-20 17:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 3012729)
If the paint cracks, it's best to sand it smooth and just repaint it. You'll end up doing more work and piling on more paint if you keep trying to fill it.

Decanting doesn't take long. You just need to make sure you degas the paint, or it'll explode on you as it's fairly volatile right out of the can. It the degassing process that may take long or not long depending on your method of degassing.

thanks, a third coat still didnt do it. i guess its back to the sand paper again. ive sanded down the putty and the plastic a bit. ive painted a small area to test it out atm, ive yet to see of it solves the problem.

cf18 2010-04-20 20:20

Listing of upcoming Model Graphix spill the beans on the next MG...
http://www.modelkasten.com/magazine/mg/187470307.html

082 マスターグレード フルアーマーガンダム(バンダイ 1/100) -> MG Full Armor Gundam

We don't know which design yet...
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/2546/fa781.jpg VS http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/1002/fa782.jpg

X207 2010-04-20 23:12

my SD lunamaria zaku is completed. im just waiting for the paint to dry b4 the final touch ups. thank you very muchgamerabaenre for the helpful tips on handling putty.i managed to get the underside of the shield to look much better. it was both sanding down the putty and sanding the paint itself. it still has some imperfections but no noticeable paint cracks like before.

Alexus_Z3 2010-04-22 05:42

LOL RD Ascalon seems that we got another candidate for HG 00 :D
http://i40.tinypic.com/30dec5s.jpg


Edit:
sexy clear green face mask :love:
http://i41.tinypic.com/ohv9tk.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/33cn04m.jpg


http://i43.tinypic.com/2h33od0.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/5ci0eu.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/jzzkmg.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/vf8i8m.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/24pkpxz.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/2eowuo3.jpg

Akyra 2010-04-22 06:17

I still want a 1/100 GN Archer....hmmm


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