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So yeah i would just avoid using stickers in general, but thats just me, when you buy a kit check it out and decided weather or not you want to add the sticker and paint over it and such. |
00 + 0-riser is out of stock on hlj, man this is selling like hot cake, and im in the process of saving up for that too :(
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Is Avalanche Exia a decent model and what are the problems?
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Hmm. Considering that the "ultimate upgrades" are usually not introduced until the last couple of episodes of any of the Gundam shows I've seen, and that the =-riser is comparatively small next to its last few predecessors (GN-arms, METEOR), who wants to bet that there'll be an even bigger attachment available for the 00 before the end of the show? Remember, GN-arms and METEOR only show up in the last two-three episodes of 00 S1, GS and GSD respectively, and we still have another dozen or so to go on 00 S2... SP |
http://www.amazon.com/gp/shops/store...A1TUHN8FMK85C0
I just feel like showing this to you guys, for those who want a good place to buy kits in the USA online. You guys don't have to believe me on this, up to you. I got the MG hi nu,MG sazabi, GN arms+ Exia, infinite justice MG, and some more kits from him, the prices were really good. Cybertrontoyz, a good place to buy kits for a pretty decent price and low shipping. They have lots of kits, the owner places only certain kits on amazon, but he has tons in his store. Just email him, he has new kits, old kits, HG, MG, PG, etc. SERIOUSLY EMAIL THE GUY for his true stock list, he has a lot to offer. Amazon takes 10-15% of profit so he doesn't put much up. He accepts paypal when ordering off amazon so you know it is safe. I've order tons of MGs and 00 off of him lately due to low pricing discounts when buying many items at once and also low shipping ($10 max when I ordered a giant order). |
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1. The blue butt skirt thing. It has those bendy purple plastic things, that all the first season Gundams have, to connect it to Exia's back. Anyway, my problem is that they don't stay in the skirt well, so they stick out. Not really a problem, but a gripe that could probably easily be fixed (scotch tape/glue?). 2. The legs are kinda loose. For such a bulky kit, they could have done a better job with the leg-to-hip plastic cap joints. Again, could probably be fixed, but at the risk of the cap expanding and breaking. 3. I don't have anywhere to display it because all of my other kits are 1/144 sized:p. Hope this helps. |
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Easy to peel off???...seriously??...I thought it was kinda strongly attached....Did any of you ever had your stickers peeled off due to age?? |
Foil ones tend to WEAR down with age. Can't really help that. As for decals, I always wash the parts (or just the area if you prefer) where the decal is going. The plastic parts may or may not have a plastic residue on it from manufacturing. It's like if you wanted to paint something: would you wash off any dirt or whatever prior to painting or would you take your chances with something unclean?
UNCLEAN! UNCLEEEEEEEAN! |
Spoiler for 1/100 Cherudim Gundam and 1/100 Arios Gundam:
And is that an announcement for a... PERFECT GRADE ASTRAY RED FRAME?!?!?! :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: :eek: |
1/60 PG Gerbera Straight?!?!?! But I wonder why Red Frame of all things?
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And I though PG is already dead is that HG Trans-Am for exia virtue Dynames and Kyrios looks pretty sweet
http://i42.tinypic.com/16i9slf.jpg |
eh...so even until now, They still keep releasing HGUC stuffs??...Oh...SO There's still hope for HGSEED of ZGMF X12A- Testament...
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PG astray, that would be freaking awesome and it is possible.
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And a PG Red Frame....my god that's awesome:D |
Can anyone confirm or translate the japanese text for the PG?
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^_^;;;;; I'll take that as a big vote against using the stickers to mask my kit, then. Good to know... Not that it looks like Exia needs all that much in the way of masking, anyway...
A couple of tips learned in twenty years of messing up regular glue-and-paint model kits: When applying decals, whether the surface is painted or not, apply a gloss clearcoat and let it dry thoroughly before adding the decals. Nearly everything adheres better to a slick, shiny surface (ironically enough), since there's less (ideally none) space for air to get trapped under the decal. I use the local version of "Future Floor Wax" from SCJohnson, (Google it! One of the absolute best modeling tricks I've learned from the web!). If the model isn't supposed to be gloss, then glosscoat it anyway and then use a dull varnish over the decals. (I stir a jar of Tamiya Acrylic Flat base, then use the same rod to stir a medicine dosage cup full of Future, that gets me a pretty nice dullcoat). Second tip is styrene cups. Every modeler should have a stack of them, since they're 1) a cheap source of thin card (the material is the same as in kits, and reacts to cement and paints the same way); 2) ideal for holding paints in while painting (never paint directly from the jar. It risks contamination of the paint, reduces the tin's lifespan by exposing it overlong to air, and above all, half an ounce of paint once spilled produces one heck of a mess - instead, dribble a bit of paint into cup using a stirring rod and replace the lid. You can always pick up more if neccessary, and it doesn't have to be from the same jar...), 3) disposable, meaning you can let the paint dry in the cup and then toss it out, rather than having to clean it for reuse. Hope these tidbits help someone out... :-) SP |
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