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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Meehlimo 2007-04-13 06:36

I think it looks great props man.

duotiga 2007-04-14 00:36

Blue Destiny Unit 2 Review
http://www.geocities.jp/lifezoids/HGUC-77.htm

jbui 2007-04-14 01:18

Wow, the blue destiny sure is, BLUE!!!

zephyrus 2007-04-15 05:05

need help with my strike freedom MG model! >.<
 
I recently bought a 1/100 Strike Freedom MG model, after various 1/144 models i decided to go for a bigger one, and also im determined to make it look as good as the front cover makes it, the problem is the panel lines.

I searched up various guides that tell me to either use a gundam marker or a enamel washing method, i was going for the marker method, but i found out that the gold joints have very very fine panel lines that might prove a problem, and this being my first time doing it.

The other choice is the enamel washing method, however im not very confident with my own skills with this, ive read how to do it but too many details are left out, do i do each piece individually or dunk in a few pieces at the same time?

if anybody knows anything that might help me please advise me!!!!!

thank you in advance ^^

hobbes_fan 2007-04-15 05:31

http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/howto/wash.htm
http://www.themodelmakersresource.co...rticle003.html
basically a very thin paint mixture

Working on a Hasegawa Valkyrie myself. I'm planning to use a watercolour wash as it's my first try and it's a bit more forgiving i've been told. Just use a small brush to drip the wash into the nooks and crannies and wipe the excess off.

Honey_and_Cleaver 2007-04-15 06:06

No need for that, dont finish the gundam and ink it. You ink it first then put them together.

Instead of using a knife to scrape of the ink. Use a round shape or sharp edge rubber, just ink on the lines and if it gets out, you use a rubber and wipe on top of it and the ink will still sit inside the lines, thats what i did to MG Strike Noir's face. But dont do it when the ink is already dry.

aikming 2007-04-15 10:18

I just use a gundam marker and then wipe off the surface with a tissue. Because there's depth, even wiping the surface off, the ink will remain in the depth. If there inking not heavy enough, do it one more time. I did that with my MG freedom and MG wing zero custom and felt fine with it. Will do the same with my MG Strike freedom as well. You can try and if not sastify, try the methods suggested by others. And yes, do it while it's not dry.

aikming 2007-04-15 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbes_fan (Post 903895)
Working on a Hasegawa Valkyrie myself. I'm planning to use a watercolour wash as it's my first try and it's a bit more forgiving i've been told. Just use a small brush to drip the wash into the nooks and crannies and wipe the excess off.

Watercolour doesnt work on gundam plastic, they dont stay long. You need either acrylic or enamel paint.

Jays 2007-04-15 19:23

What would you guys say is the best site with the best inventory/prices to get these kits from?

hobbes_fan 2007-04-15 20:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by aikming (Post 904125)
Watercolour doesnt work on gundam plastic, they dont stay long. You need either acrylic or enamel paint.

haven't clear coated it yet. I was going to hit it with clear coat after the wash. This a bad idea?

aikming 2007-04-15 22:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by hobbes_fan (Post 904840)
haven't clear coated it yet. I was going to hit it with clear coat after the wash. This a bad idea?

I'm not sure whether a clear coat work work well with water colour or not. So maybe someone else can comment on that. It's just watercolour dont stick well with plastic. If you feel that watercolour is decent enough for you, then a clear coat would probably help to retain it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jays (Post 904763)
What would you guys say is the best site with the best inventory/prices to get these kits from?

I would recommend HLJ if you are refering to online purchase. Though you should do some homework and compare the price yourself. Remember to include or quote the shipping. Some site may offer unbelievable price but the shipping would be painful.

zephyrus 2007-04-15 22:34

thanks for the ideas guyz, i'm leaning to the washing method right now and i also wanted to know

since i should ink it before making, should i leave the pieces uncut when inking? because if i cut them out, i might have some trouble finding the right pieces when making. The other problem is will the ink dry too fast if i ink a whole one of those sections at once?

hobbes_fan 2007-04-16 01:13

Having only ever done two gundams ever, (your basic HG kits) It is a bucket load easier to do it still attached to the sprues

LoweGear 2007-04-16 07:18

Dalong has initial info up on MG MS-06J Zaku II v2.0:

MG MS-06J Zaku II v2.0

Looking at the parts, It really does look like Bandai made this MG specifically to be variant-ready, aka ready to be molded into more MG Zaku variants ^^;

kct 2007-04-16 08:20

Yeah, we would probably see the Commander, F2, Kai and the MSVs like the Johnny Ridden's version.

Mr Chow 2007-04-16 19:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by zephyrus (Post 905014)
thanks for the ideas guyz, i'm leaning to the washing method right now and i also wanted to know

since i should ink it before making, should i leave the pieces uncut when inking? because if i cut them out, i might have some trouble finding the right pieces when making. The other problem is will the ink dry too fast if i ink a whole one of those sections at once?

Like most models (plastic) it pays to give the entire lot a warm washing in dishwashing liquid and warm water - I know it may sound weird but remember that the spruces are injected molded and are coated with a chemical to enable them to be removed from the molds! Just give them a wash first and either hang them in a sunny place to diry or use a cool hairy dryer to aid in quick drying; just remember to give the parts a rinse in warm clean water before drying.

This will give the model a better finish when painting, and its better to do this when they are still connected to the spruce first as its easier. As for paints; I usually use a combination of enamel markers and if your steady enough I use a Tamiya/Badger spray units. I also use common materials that you can find around the home, like charcoal, ash from a fire, pastels, and anything that you want to experiement with - just remember that theres no right or wrong way of doing things just experiement on some scrap plastic or very cheap models before completing your Gundam master piece!!

Have fun and take your time; like I'm still in the process of painting my 1/60 Strike and PG Strike which have taken about two months and with my day job as well!!

Good luck :)

JackRydden224 2007-04-17 00:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by kct (Post 905597)
Yeah, we would probably see the Commander, F2, Kai and the MSVs like the Johnny Ridden's version.

Maybe we'll see an Amuro's Zaku one day....white, blue and red Zaku...(Matsunaga+Ramba+Ridden/Char)

LoweGear 2007-04-17 01:27

Gundambase Mass Updates:

HGUC Acguy

MG Zaku II V 2.0

EX Oggo

theOtherGuy 2007-04-17 02:03

All these MGs...so little money... :(

takumi111 2007-04-17 20:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaytoDawn (Post 901113)
Haha! Thanks for the compliments! This is my first kit which i tried to paint and put up decals.(well, the right way at least...:heh: ) I didn't do a lot of mods, just to the fingers and sharpen the V-fin. The wings are not mods, just paint. they took A LOT and i mean A LOT of time to paint as i am not really good at hand painting so i used a roll of masking tape to do it...:D :heh: took me an hour or so to place the masking tape and 5 seconds to paint it...however, i did try to hand paint the little gold parts at the ankle armour and the shoulders.

No mods on the DRAGOONS? Um .. you sure you didn't accidentally cut out some of the 'vents' on them? :heh:

Compare this pic of the DRAGOONS to the ones on your kit:

http://www.dalong.net/review/mg/m97s/p/m97s_32.jpg


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