If they make a Burst Mode version and include effect parts for it to be the actual Burst Mode version then I would totally buy it.
Wouldn't bother if it's just a recolour though like the Trans-Am kits, special coating kits always picked me as more hassle than they are worth, what with all the nub marks they musty have and so on. |
As long as they don't look like the beam effects for the Freedom that was released during the HD Remaster, it'd be quite nice.
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Found that via Google :) Looks awesome, IMO :D
http://gundamcentury.com/wp-content/...ury-free13.jpg |
Speed build for me, but it's about 97% done. I still have the heat hawk to finish up, but for all intents and purposes. It's done. Hope you guys like it.
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/midni...%20014_JPG.jpg Here's the blog post that details the final steps in the build as well as the display stand build: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=2625 And for the full details on the build progression, go here: http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=2600 |
That looks so badass, Gamera! The red and black stripes reminds me of (if you know the franchise) Fate/Stay Night servants when they get into Dark Mode. :D
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So, I'm a rather new person to mecha model hobbies, and I figured if I had a question about such things, there's no better place than here. I definitely have no problem with construction, but what I can never seem to get past is finishing with a flawless surface on my models. What do you guys use to get rid of blemishes/leftover plastic? Do you paint over them, or use a tool that files them till they're flat? Also, what tools do you use to simply remove each piece from the trays? I (luckily) haven't had many breaks when trying to remove them, but they never seem to come out looking to hot (still have plastic dust/edges/bumps on them after removing). To note, I use a knife to saw away the pieces from the tray very slowly. I'm not sure if this is the right method or not. :heh:
Any help would be much appreciated. Btw, I love all of your pictures and finished models, everyone. Makes me wish I had the money to buy more. :p |
@Asuras
Let’s see, if you’re not a guy who likes to paint or air-brushing, using a knife or file to clean the plastic nubs on the surface is already a good method. Still, if I were you, I won’t use just any kind of knife. You better use a hobby-knife which is perfectly designed for such job. You can get it (& other tools for your kits) in stores that sell model kits. Also, after you cut the nubs, it is better if you paint the nub-spots with color-matching markers a little. For example, for Gundam models (Gunplas), Bandai already provide some Gundam Markers with various colors for you to buy & use. If you like to air-brush, that’s even more simple. Just use the knife (some might suggest using sand-paper, but I still prefer the knife) to clean the nubs and then just brush it away. To be clearer, you might want to check this link: http://gunpla-inochi.com/tools/ I hope that helps ;). |
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- Tamiya Hard File Pro - Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro - Tamiya Modeler's Side Cutter ... If you're gonna use these, use the side cutter to nip off pieces, but leave a little extra. Then get close to the part and get it off. If there is still excess, then use the knife or file. Don't go back and forth since that'll leave an uneven surface. 2. If you want that pro look, you need to sand down w/ the metal file. This will leave scratch marks. But what you do is "fill them in" with a primer. Then you give it maybe 1 or 2 thin layers of paint with a air brush or you could hand brush, and then top coat. That's a lot of effort. Personally, I just use Gundam Markers to fix nub marks and then if I want, I top coat. |
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Alot of the tools you can get at local shops will more than likely do the job for you, just as long as it's not dirt and very badly made but you'd be able to notice that when buying them anyway. However I find that you should find a nice good hobby knife, so spending a tad more on that is good idea but again you really don't need to(you can find good ones for pretty cheap anyway) Following the guide Obelisk ze Tormentor posted is good start but no need to get the Tamiya stuff if you want to save some money(that stuff can be abit pricey) For getting rid of nub marks can try this guide out. Also if your having trouble cutting pieces out of the runners, then I advise to cut the runner up itself into smaller more manageable pieces to handle. Instead of cutting the piece straight out you can cut away the runner from around off instead but that requires more work(altho putting in lots of tender loving care is part of the hobby:p) I just tend to cut up the runners into quarters for easier work. Quote:
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AGE Hi-FX! :D |
You think Bandai could release a MG Exia R2 as a P-Bandai Online Exclusive?
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They seem to be using it for several things at this point and I do expect we will start to see more unique stuff other then just recolors as time goes by.
I don't know if they would do it with Exia given it's a lead and fairly popular one at that. |
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My lastest build, and for now my favorite 1/144 HG model! The G-Bouncer!
Even if you do not like Gundam AGE, this design is great, the quality is superb! I can't recommend it enough. And this come from a guy who does not like the color White :D This guy begs for being MG-ed!!!! http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer1.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer2.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer3.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer4.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer5.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer6.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...G-Bouncer7.jpg |
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Also, the Age-2 Normal Special Ops should get an MG to "complete" the series of white suits from Age. Reference the video below to be amazed with the 4 HG's.. =P I rarely post my built GunPla kits on public because too many people just being stupid by automatically thumb downing the video...makes no sense. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksS-HgybQ4g&hd=1 And besides, my MG and 1/100 collection is begging for those 4 to get MG releases (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi37rOFi7Ek&hd=1) |
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. . Anyone here think that the Perfect Grade is pretty much dead? |
Perfect Grade isn't dead.
This isn't the first time that we have had a gap in PG releases and it won't be the last. Also over half the PG's are recolors anyway so you got to remember the amount of unique PG's we have is incredibly small. We will get another in time, but the combination of size, complexity, and overall popularlity has to line up just right for us to get these. These things are huge and take alot to design on top of asking alot even for heavy Gunpla fans to pay so they can't just throw them out whenever and of whatever and expect them to do well. |
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1. Expensive 2. take a long time to come out 3. not many people buy it relative to like SD, HG, MG, and now RG... Wouldn't it be more cost effective to get rid of PG and work towards improving quality and color separation in SD, RG, HG, and MG? |
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The other Grades are always being improved upon, that is why we have modelers always talking about how High Grades of today out class early MG's, and how stuff like Nu needs a new MG to keep up with todays quality. There is no reason to drop the PG line just for others. Even if they did drop the PG line, there is no reason to believe that MG's and the rest would suddenly get a quality bump anyway. Your reasons for the drop of a line that has proven popular and by all account profitable for Bandai are completely selfish and really have no benefit to anyone other then to deprive those who really love the line. PG's aren't for everyone, but neither should they be dropped because of that. They have their place just as HG, MG, RG, and NG's. |
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