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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

M_Flores 2009-04-13 07:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aceywacey (Post 2335686)
Finished my 0 Raiser for my HG 1:144. Anyone else find it strange that the 1:144 not only looks better than the 1:100 (design-wise) but that it has better poseability?

No waist joint and floppy wings on the 1:100 kind of kills it. Even though I have it as well (Just too lazy to build it right now!)

http://acesan.files.wordpress.com/20...pg?w=450&h=337

http://acesan.wordpress.com/2009/04/...-model-review/

Bunch more photos at my blog review - and yes I suck at panel lining -_-;; :

1/144 beats the 1/100 this time?
Now I'm really looking forward to my Trans-Am Raiser!

MrCapcom 2009-04-13 10:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsquared (Post 2335664)
i think the modeler orverdid the decals a bit and the green paint seem too solid, but overall, a very nice, clean build.

The green paint is solid because its glow in the dark paint

justsomeguy 2009-04-13 12:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoweGear (Post 2336974)
Found this GN Archer mod :eyespin: :

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...9578814239.jpg

I'm guessing that the wings are from the HG Zero Custom, with both pairs attached to where the nose of the fighter form used to be; which is a bit odd because there is an empty pair of polycaps where the boosters used to be, and where one set of wings can be attached.

Maybe I should buy a WZC and try this out.

C.A. 2009-04-13 12:10

Yes, I'm going to get a HG Wing Zero as well lol, maybe even another Archer.

kakakka 2009-04-13 12:16

Poor HG Wing Zero..../jks XD

But that's some awesome GN Archer mod.

vektar 2009-04-13 15:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aceywacey (Post 2335686)
Finished my 0 Raiser for my HG 1:144. Anyone else find it strange that the 1:144 not only looks better than the 1:100 (design-wise) but that it has better poseability?

No waist joint and floppy wings on the 1:100 kind of kills it. Even though I have it as well (Just too lazy to build it right now!)

http://acesan.files.wordpress.com/20...pg?w=450&h=337

http://acesan.wordpress.com/2009/04/...-model-review/

Bunch more photos at my blog review - and yes I suck at panel lining -_-;; :

You did a really good job on that kit, if you have anymore you should post some more pics. The panel lining is good i dont see anything wrong with it.

vektar 2009-04-13 15:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkstrife (Post 2337494)
thanks for the tip! i was just wondering though how many coats of spraypaint would u apply to the kit? i normally apply 2 coats and i spray them directly on the runner (is that enough?) and if i buy the matt finishing coat, would i just need to spray the matt paint once or should i also do multiple coats???

i just spray 2 coats of paint 3 if really needed, also depends on the color. Like yellow for some reason yellow tamyia paint, spray or in the bottle tends to be really thin. As for a topcoat id do one really good coat, if you put to much it might look a bit strange and overly thick.

Nerroth 2009-04-13 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by LightningZERO (Post 2337313)
At least the Reborn Gundam will be released as HG 1/144, not sure if it can be converted into Cannon or not

Here's hoping.



Oh, how much of a demand do you guys think there could be for the Fereshte Gundams which haven't been shown in any model form thus far - such as the Plutone, Sadalsuud and Abulhool - should they ever get released in HG form?

darkstrife 2009-04-13 19:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by vektar (Post 2338563)
i just spray 2 coats of paint 3 if really needed, also depends on the color. Like yellow for some reason yellow tamyia paint, spray or in the bottle tends to be really thin. As for a topcoat id do one really good coat, if you put to much it might look a bit strange and overly thick.

many thanks for the advice, i just bought the MG hi-nu gundam and i want to make absolutely sure with my painting so i wont ruin it, i probably test it out first on a FG kit...:heh:

vektar 2009-04-13 21:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nerroth (Post 2338892)
Here's hoping.



Oh, how much of a demand do you guys think there could be for the Fereshte Gundams which haven't been shown in any model form thus far - such as the Plutone, Sadalsuud and Abulhool - should they ever get released in HG form?

One model i really would love to see in a UCHG at some point is Amuro's MSK-008 Dijeh from Z Gundam, it cant be that hard to make its pretty much a Rick Dias conversion into a galgoog.

I found a pic of a B Club conversion for the Zaku 2.0 to turn it in to the Dijeh! B Club is way to hard to build though so no go for me.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...-008Dijeh3.jpg

Heres the link to the site i got it from. http://www.hobbyfan.com/product_info...848&bShowPre=1

and heres a link to the Mobile suit in action for those who want to see it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAidc1zpnHI

ryanvamp 2009-04-13 22:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by vektar (Post 2339170)
One model i really would love to see in a UCHG at some point is Amuro's MSK-008 Dijeh from Z Gundam, it cant be that hard to make its pretty much a Rick Dias conversion into a galgoog.

You know, I was thinking this exact same thing yesterday...even the Hi-Nu, which only appeared in novels, gets the HG treatment so what's the reason behind not releasing the Dijeh? I know it isn't a beautiful MS, but it wasn't that bad and more importantly, it was used as the most well known main lead (even if he was a secondary character in Zeta, he was still important to the plot) in a couple of famous (at least in the UC storyline) battles...

JayCee 2009-04-14 02:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryanvamp (Post 2335463)
Speaking of that, I've been wanting for a long time to buy the overflag (the black one that Graham uses) but I've seen several reviews of the 1/144 HG and they complain A LOT about the legs falling down and the fists being too big...taking notice of what you've just said, does anybody can give me an opinion about both versions? (1/144 HG and 1/100 NG

On an unrelated subject, I don't have an airbrush (can't afford it yet) but I'm eager to try some painting and top coating...so, do you guys recommend me the tamiya spray paints ? Are they worth it regarding how much can you use them before the can is empty ? What about top coat in spray format? I think I've seen it in some stores but with another name (living in a foreign country doesn't help you with this kind of stuff). I ask this 'cause I did buy some kind of top coat but I tried it on a shield with a brush and the results were not that good.

The Arche looks good, but I don't like the colors either



Just got back from a nice long break. Catching up on so many pages worth in this topic can be a a bit of a mission lol :p

Anyhow thought I'd just make a reply to answer a question that doesn't seem to be answered as of yet.

Regarding about Tamiya spray paints. They can give an okay finish if done correctly. Using same techniques such as thin steady layering, although quality will never be as good as good airbrushing but more than average results can still be done.

Spraying subjects with cans should always go in this format to give a steady layer

Spraying from distance a good few meters back not up close and personal. Make sure it's shaked very well and spray only in one passing direction. I.e from left to right. Don't try to over compensate if you miss spots. Wait till it dries then do another thin layer. Multiple thin layers always beats one thick layer when it comes to quality finish. If layer is uneven. Sand down and respray. Patience pays off at end result.

However though spray can paints are best to use on large surfaces like the thighs or chest. Small intricates are still best to use brush painting i.e eyes, thrusters etc

Also for the love of god do not touch the air brush with the air propellant cans as a cheap alternative to airbrushing. They freeze up so easily and ruins the paintjob when it sprays out blotches.

As for topcoat. Same thing as painting really. Thin layers. If you're not very adept in brush use spray. To be honest most people use sprays anyway as it saves a lot of time and hassle and is relatively easy to use. Usually 1-3 thin layers is sufficient depending on one's own taste.

Here's an example of just simple topcoating result


Spoiler for Strike IWSP:

ryanvamp 2009-04-14 06:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2339538)




Just got back from a nice long break. Catching up on so many pages worth in this topic can be a a bit of a mission lol :p

Anyhow thought I'd just make a reply to answer a question that doesn't seem to be answered as of yet.

Regarding about Tamiya spray paints. They can give an okay finish if done correctly. Using same techniques such as thin steady layering, although quality will never be as good as good airbrushing but more than average results can still be done.

Spraying subjects with cans should always go in this format to give a steady layer

Spraying from distance a good few meters back not up close and personal. Make sure it's shaked very well and spray only in one passing direction. I.e from left to right. Don't try to over compensate if you miss spots. Wait till it dries then do another thin layer. Multiple thin layers always beats one thick layer when it comes to quality finish. If layer is uneven. Sand down and respray. Patience pays off at end result.

However though spray can paints are best to use on large surfaces like the thighs or chest. Small intricates are still best to use brush painting i.e eyes, thrusters etc

Also for the love of god do not touch the air brush with the air propellant cans as a cheap alternative to airbrushing. They freeze up so easily and ruins the paintjob when it sprays out blotches.

As for topcoat. Same thing as painting really. Thin layers. If you're not very adept in brush use spray. To be honest most people use sprays anyway as it saves a lot of time and hassle and is relatively easy to use. Usually 1-3 thin layers is sufficient depending on one's own taste.

Here's an example of just simple topcoating result


Spoiler for Strike IWSP:


I see, thanks for your advice and taking the time to read my questions. That strike looks good indeed. So, to sum it up, żis top coating recommended even when the model isn't painted? For example, on a MG to protect its decals, or in a HG 1/144 to protect it from the dust? Even if the results aren't visible, it's useful and I guess that 1 can of top coat can last two or three models maybe. (is it possible to do it without disassembling the model?)

JayCee 2009-04-14 06:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by ryanvamp (Post 2339742)
I see, thanks for your advice and taking the time to read my questions. That strike looks good indeed. So, to sum it up, żis top coating recommended even when the model isn't painted? For example, on a MG to protect its decals, or in a HG 1/144 to protect it from the dust? Even if the results aren't visible, it's useful and I guess that 1 can of top coat can last two or three models maybe. (is it possible to do it without disassembling the model?)


More than welcome. Yes top coating is usually recommended as to protect paintwork and decals. However remember to use a brush or toothbrush to clean up the dust before applying the topcoat as the dust will be sealed as well.

Usually when applied with matt top coat on non painted models it gives a less cheap plastic toy like feel. So it's beneficial either way you look at it.

Also yes you can do it without disassembling the model. Be aware though. Sometimes joints can stiffen a little bit due to topcoat spray. If you wish to avoid that I'd suggest covering joints or inner frames in masking tape. If you're not so bothered about it like me then nothing to worry about.

Any other questions feel free to ask

Bashfulz 2009-04-14 09:45

is topcoat safe for gundam markers and panel lining? saw somewhere that topcoat affects the colours and panel lining.

JayCee 2009-04-14 10:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bashfulz (Post 2340066)
is topcoat safe for gundam markers and panel lining? saw somewhere that topcoat affects the colours and panel lining.

I can assure you topcoat is fine for markers and panel lining. I have yet run into a problem with it as of yet. I'm under the assumption the person either didn't wait for the ink to dry properly and apply the coat relatively quick or applied too much of a heavy coat.

Bashfulz 2009-04-14 10:12

hrm.. icic. saw this diagram here: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm and it kinda shows that lacquer is not good on anything.. and isnt topcoat's lacquer based? :?

anyway what topcoat do you use or recommend?

JayCee 2009-04-14 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bashfulz (Post 2340131)
hrm.. icic. saw this diagram here: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm and it kinda shows that lacquer is not good on anything.. and isnt topcoat's lacquer based? :?

anyway what topcoat do you use or recommend?


I'm assuming this topic is referring to Gunze Mr. Hobby Topcoat.

However do note that there is 2 exceptions to the rule that all topcoat's are safe to everything.

Rule 1) TS-13 clear lacquer spray can eat into decals (TS-13 cans are grey so you can tell the difference)
Rule 2) More of a common sense but I'm under assumption some people may not know topcoat are reputable for ruining metallic spray paints. So general rule of thumb never top coat metallic colours.

So apart from that it's completely safe for panel lining and what not

Safest line of top coats I've always used is Gunze Topcoat

http://www.kalfakis.gr/images/scale/...coat_small.jpg

Tormenk 2009-04-14 11:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2339538)
As for topcoat. Same thing as painting really. Thin layers. If you're not very adept in brush use spray. To be honest most people use sprays anyway as it saves a lot of time and hassle and is relatively easy to use. Usually 1-3 thin layers is sufficient depending on one's own taste.

Reading this just reminded me of something I had wondered about before. Is it possible to handbrush topcoat onto models? Assuming there is some form of liquid topcoat available?

JayCee 2009-04-14 13:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tormenk (Post 2340300)
Reading this just reminded me of something I had wondered about before. Is it possible to handbrush topcoat onto models? Assuming there is some form of liquid topcoat available?

Yes it is possible. Though spray cans are much easier to use for a good levelled layer.

(Though I cannot confirm if Gunze has liquid topcoats. I know there are some out there of a different brand.)

*edit: If you ever find any resources on handpainting topcoats I'm more than interested on hearing about it. To be honest it's almost unheard of as it's just uncommon to handpaint topcoats. About the only thing I can think of is women who do nail varnishes that applies liquid topcoats. Although suitable for their purpose not for gunplay of course*


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