In terms of model kits, yep those would be the biggest. For the biggest representation of a Gundam though, I think the 1/2 Gundam lantern takes the cake :heh:

Nope, it should work wherever you live.

Hi guys! :D

How do you distinguish slide decals from dry transfers? Is it always the case that slide decals are pre-cut and have opaque backings while dry transfers have transparent backings? :eyespin: Do all MGs come with both slide/wet decals and dry transfers? Thanks! :D

MG's come with dry transfers. I think only one or two have come with waterslide decals. Waterslide decals always have a rather thick paper backing with the decal film from which the decals are printed on. Dry transfers are always on a thin plastic like transparent material. Not all waterslide decals are precut, many custom decal sellers just print the decals, and you need to cut around the decal to separate it from other decals and the decal sheet.

What's the point of this kit? :heh:

Thanks GameraBaenre, :D

Ive checked my MG kits and I've noticed that all of them come with a pair of decal sheets. In every kit, one of the sheets is very much like what you've described as "dry transfers" and the other one looks like waterslide decals.

It seems that those miniature warning signs are almost always printed as waterslide and are pre-cut, and those big detail signs like in MG Freedom's "ETERNAL" and "METEOR" are printed as dry transfers.

Do dry transfers require a glossy surface for them to adhere properly? Thanks again! :D

Actually, the biggest one I remember seeing was the 1/12 HY2M Gundam and Zaku. Dalong has a 1/24 version....

You may want to make sure that the second decal sheet are stickers, not waterslide decals. As much as I would love to have bandai switch over to using waterslide decals; I haven't seen evidence that they have. The backing for most water slide decals are usually blue, or a bluish tint.

As for applying the dry transfers; you can apply them on either flat or glossy surface. I don't think it matters too much. I haven't used the dry transfers in years. If given a choice, I would suggest applying them to a glossy surface. Then if you want, you can just spray a flat coat to give it a flat finish. if you have spare dry transfers, try applying them to a glossy surface and a flat surface and see if there is a difference. Sorry, I'm just very anti-dry transfers :) I have problems getting them to work well. Water slide decals to me are much more forgiving.

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9...5053ed8.th.jpg

Gel Ver 2.0

MasterGrade is suppposed to be non glue snap-fitting and non painting kits... ^ ^;;

With emphasis on non-painting. Thus this recolor is for those who don't like the washed out colors of the MG OYW version, but are too lazy or too inexperienced to repaint.

Upcoming merchandise pics
From The Gundam Base.Side 1

HGUC Gundam Ground-Type
http://www.gundambase.com/community/...1&news_idx=617

BB Senshi Blu Duel
http://www.gundambase.com/community/...1&news_idx=616

This is cool!!!

http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/.../wsfm/wsfm.htm

http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/.../wsfm/wsf0.jpg

That is awesome. I've been to this site before, but can anyone explain what mesarion is? Are they just people who take kits and mod them? They do fabulous work, so I'm really curious.

Also, totally unrelated....so I understand these kits don't need to be painted, but it's recommended if you want nice details and all. So what can I do with a kit just short of going all out with an airbrush? I don't own an airbrush or know how to use one. Anyway, I know there are the gundam pens for panel lines and gundam markers....anything else I need to know about?

Oh and can anyone recommend a good gold paint? I have a Strike Freedom model kit and while the gold on the wing parts is shiny and nice, the gold parts on the body are more on the dull side. I'd like to hand paint those parts to make them better looking. :)

Sorry for all the N00b questions, I'm rather new to putting together these kits.

Someone had Stargazer colors on the brain :p

Someone recommended Tamiya Gold Leaf or Titanium Gold for SF colors.

On another paint-related topic, what's the diff between Tamiya clear orange and just orange? I'm planning on painting some orange parts, but is one lighter than the other, or something else? Thanks. Does the diff apply to Tamiya Flat White and regular white also?

I need some kind of color guide :eyebrow:

Well, personally, i never used titanium gold or gold leaf bacause i just couldn't find them here in Malaysia...only sold in bottle form so i ended up using the regular tamiya gold. The results seem quite acceptable. Just go back a few pages to c the SF with regular gold paint.

Now that white SF really strikes me as a nice paint job!:D I just love it! i shall use some of those colours for my VF-0S model...been thinking of multiple ways to paint it but can't seem to decide on which one...White-grey-gold or Blue-white-gold...

I think wonder excellence site author used champagne gold spray paint, rather than gold. I was about to change my order to champagne gold but my gold paint order was processed for shipping already. It would be nice if there's someone who use champagne gold and give his/her opinion.

Do you guys think they will ever make a PG Strike Freedom?

And what do you think about using minor decals on a PG Wing Zero Custom?

IMO, it's unlikely, there's MG, MG Fullburst and 1/60 lightning edition already.
but there're possibilty depending on the market.

Clear orange is a transparent paint with an orange tint. Tamiya orange is a solid color. The clear orange will take up the previous color below it and give it an orange tint. I have used clear orange for painting clear plastic, so that the plastic has a orange tint, or I have used it over silver/chrome and created a metallic orange.

The difference between flat white and regular white is the finish. One is flat (dull/non light reflecting) while the regular is glossy (shiny and reflects light). Flat acrylic paints will dry faster than gloss acrylic paints.