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MG is not for everyone because of two possible reasons, one is space and the biggest factor I can think of is price.
HGs are undoubtedly cheaper and spacesaver, though I can't figure out that much why geara zulu's price range is always above 2000yen, which is irrelevant of course. With the current evolution of current HGs, having semi inner frame and articulation can compare or even defeat older MGs, I think it's going a good job. |
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Price is also depends on the number of parts for kits Geara Zulu price is above 2000yen is because of the number of parts for HG & is almost to the scale of 1/100 (UC unicorn MS are big aka Nu Gundam size) I say current HG kits is a very much improved compared to the previous HG line |
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I really thought the future of Gunpla lies in the 1/144 scale, with the introduction of the RG that blurred the line (in detail and price) between HG and MG and currently airing Gundam anime that targets the younger audience (with younger HG only budgets). |
unofficially ...they are implying that (trying) to cut the production cost down to mainly MG/RG & 1/144 scale
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To clarify on point 2 in regards to the future of Gunpla. It's a personal opinion of the designer, he is not satisfied with how HGs lacks mechanical details and are not loyal to their original concept. If he got his way, all Gunpla releases should be MG-only and that is not realistic from a business point of view.
And besides, remember, a representative of Bandai had mentioned plans to cut down on MG releases to focus on HGs in an earlier interview. |
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Yes, I kinda figured that it's the size. unicorn kits are BIG (don't get hurt Loto, you're cute) @casval cehack Yes, choices. That's many people wanted Bandai to make their favorite 1/144 kit into MG :) |
Hello i'm pretty new to gunpla and just have a few questions regarding painting. Any answers are muchly appreciated. I'm building and painting a 1/144 HG 00 Quanta with the full saber if anyone is curious.
1. If i use enamel straight from the pot will it cause paint marks? 2. What do you use to thin enamel? 3. Say i was going to paint 3 frames out of 5 (Blue, Grey and White) and apply a topcoat how would the painted sections look compared to the unpainted sections (red and yellow)? 4. When applying a topcoat do you need to mask clear sections? If you fail to what happens? 5. Is a primer required before painting? 6. Is spraying preferred over hand painting? And yes i'm aware i sound like a noob. I have looked up quite a few guides and done quite a bit of research but most answers have left to more questions =/. Also just curious but has there been any announcements regarding future 00 suit releases? I'm really hoping the Raphael Gundam gets a proper seravee. |
Hey guys, I got a question.
I've been meaning to buy a good set of plastic nippers, but there isn't a shop nearby that has them. Does anyone know a good alternative? Can I just use the same things you use for wires? I really want to make something out of these kits, so nubmarks are definitely a nono. |
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if you can set your printer to a high photo quality then id definitely give this a try! its fun, its an easy way to customize your models even further besides painting it and it isnt even all that expensive. i paid 3 bucks for one sheet of clear decal paper and 8 bucks for mr. metal primer as a fixer for the ink (regular top coart works here, too though! they simply recommened that primer for this particular decal paper^^) Quote:
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#2 makes sense from a designer's point of view. he wants to make an awesome model and HGs just arent as detailed as MG models. he probably also makes a lot more money with designing a MG ;D i bet if the designers alone were in charge of bandai they would only release PG models :P #3 is REALLY good news for me^^ it was rather obvious that we would get more MGs but this also means that we will get more than the FA unicorn and the banshee. a jesta or maybe even an ecoas jegan would be AMAZING news! :O |
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and you mentioned games workshop, you aren't from Australia are you? |
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I assume you mean spray on the frame. Makes sense xD Because of the design of the full saber whatever way it goes its either going to need painted or look terrible. Paints+sprays is pretty much adding on double the cost of the kit which is a bit silly for just my second kit. Would painting the full saber and leaving the 00Q as is then applying a topcoat look ok? Obviously id be panel lining aswell. I just want my full saber to look uniform texture wise with the 00Q. Sorry for being a pain. |
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i dont recommend painting the full saber only though. it will look very different from the rest of the model! about your previous questions: 1. using enamel paint straight from the pot should work out ok but it wont be all that even. you should thin it a tiny bit to make it flow better. 2. for thinning enamel paint you can use lighter fluid. i have the lighter fluid from zippo, that costs about 3.50€. you got to be careful with that stuff though! ill explain that in #5. 3. the unpainted sections would look good. bandais white and red pieces usually look really good, top coat should be enough there. thats how i did it on my MG freedom for the white pieces! 4. yes, you definitely need to mask clear pieces when top coating while the pieces are still on the sprue or put together! top coat makes all clear pieces look foggy and then they basically wont be clear anymore! that is a VERY important aspect to keep in mind when working with paint and top coat! 5. a primer would make sense. lighter fluid can damage the pieces of your model, it makes them brittle. a primer would protect your pieces. however, you can use top coat for that, too! since you dont want to give it a custom color scheme with brighter colors you can top coat it, paint it and then add a 2nd layer of top coat. that way you save the money for the primer :P 6. most definitely yes. for me painting by hand always leaves marks. spray paint and airbrushing give you a WAY better finish! but if you are good at painting by hand and if you have a good brush then painting it by hand is definitely an option! i have seen people on youtube who paint their models by hand and the results were VERY good! you just need to thin the paint properly. enamel paint doesnt flow THAT well, its rather thick. paint needs to be thinned so that it is still thick enough to stick to the pieces but not too runny so that it doesnt form paint pools. |
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I'm pretty good at painting kits so a few touchups will be no issue. Got any recommendations as far as decent tape for masking goes? And thanks for all the help, i actually have a fairly concrete game plan now. Also this is speculation but am i right in assuming you can recreate beam weapon effects using clear paint (Which i already have) and the excess of the clear runner? |
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and if you are good at modding stuff then you might be able to recreate those parts with the rest of the runners! :O |
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MG 1/100 Gundam Sandrock EW - Review by YellowSubmarine HobbyShop Blog
http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2011/1...review-by.html A review on the MG Sandrock EW... Very cool kit. I just wish that these engineering on the model kits were used on the MG Wing EW and MG Wing Zero EW.. >_> |
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