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Now I'm really looking forward to my Trans-Am Raiser! |
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Maybe I should buy a WZC and try this out. |
Yes, I'm going to get a HG Wing Zero as well lol, maybe even another Archer.
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Poor HG Wing Zero..../jks XD
But that's some awesome GN Archer mod. |
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Oh, how much of a demand do you guys think there could be for the Fereshte Gundams which haven't been shown in any model form thus far - such as the Plutone, Sadalsuud and Abulhool - should they ever get released in HG form? |
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I found a pic of a B Club conversion for the Zaku 2.0 to turn it in to the Dijeh! B Club is way to hard to build though so no go for me. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y21...-008Dijeh3.jpg Heres the link to the site i got it from. http://www.hobbyfan.com/product_info...848&bShowPre=1 and heres a link to the Mobile suit in action for those who want to see it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAidc1zpnHI |
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Just got back from a nice long break. Catching up on so many pages worth in this topic can be a a bit of a mission lol :p Anyhow thought I'd just make a reply to answer a question that doesn't seem to be answered as of yet. Regarding about Tamiya spray paints. They can give an okay finish if done correctly. Using same techniques such as thin steady layering, although quality will never be as good as good airbrushing but more than average results can still be done. Spraying subjects with cans should always go in this format to give a steady layer Spraying from distance a good few meters back not up close and personal. Make sure it's shaked very well and spray only in one passing direction. I.e from left to right. Don't try to over compensate if you miss spots. Wait till it dries then do another thin layer. Multiple thin layers always beats one thick layer when it comes to quality finish. If layer is uneven. Sand down and respray. Patience pays off at end result. However though spray can paints are best to use on large surfaces like the thighs or chest. Small intricates are still best to use brush painting i.e eyes, thrusters etc Also for the love of god do not touch the air brush with the air propellant cans as a cheap alternative to airbrushing. They freeze up so easily and ruins the paintjob when it sprays out blotches. As for topcoat. Same thing as painting really. Thin layers. If you're not very adept in brush use spray. To be honest most people use sprays anyway as it saves a lot of time and hassle and is relatively easy to use. Usually 1-3 thin layers is sufficient depending on one's own taste. Here's an example of just simple topcoating result Spoiler for Strike IWSP:
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I see, thanks for your advice and taking the time to read my questions. That strike looks good indeed. So, to sum it up, żis top coating recommended even when the model isn't painted? For example, on a MG to protect its decals, or in a HG 1/144 to protect it from the dust? Even if the results aren't visible, it's useful and I guess that 1 can of top coat can last two or three models maybe. (is it possible to do it without disassembling the model?) |
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More than welcome. Yes top coating is usually recommended as to protect paintwork and decals. However remember to use a brush or toothbrush to clean up the dust before applying the topcoat as the dust will be sealed as well. Usually when applied with matt top coat on non painted models it gives a less cheap plastic toy like feel. So it's beneficial either way you look at it. Also yes you can do it without disassembling the model. Be aware though. Sometimes joints can stiffen a little bit due to topcoat spray. If you wish to avoid that I'd suggest covering joints or inner frames in masking tape. If you're not so bothered about it like me then nothing to worry about. Any other questions feel free to ask |
is topcoat safe for gundam markers and panel lining? saw somewhere that topcoat affects the colours and panel lining.
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hrm.. icic. saw this diagram here: http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm and it kinda shows that lacquer is not good on anything.. and isnt topcoat's lacquer based? :?
anyway what topcoat do you use or recommend? |
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I'm assuming this topic is referring to Gunze Mr. Hobby Topcoat. However do note that there is 2 exceptions to the rule that all topcoat's are safe to everything. Rule 1) TS-13 clear lacquer spray can eat into decals (TS-13 cans are grey so you can tell the difference) Rule 2) More of a common sense but I'm under assumption some people may not know topcoat are reputable for ruining metallic spray paints. So general rule of thumb never top coat metallic colours. So apart from that it's completely safe for panel lining and what not Safest line of top coats I've always used is Gunze Topcoat http://www.kalfakis.gr/images/scale/...coat_small.jpg |
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(Though I cannot confirm if Gunze has liquid topcoats. I know there are some out there of a different brand.) *edit: If you ever find any resources on handpainting topcoats I'm more than interested on hearing about it. To be honest it's almost unheard of as it's just uncommon to handpaint topcoats. About the only thing I can think of is women who do nail varnishes that applies liquid topcoats. Although suitable for their purpose not for gunplay of course* |
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