MG Freedom Help!!!
 

Asking for a help here :p
how to make Freedom MG wont fall back while standing without the base ?
i think so heavy...but looking at all MG Freedom pic the ,it seems it is more stable and just fine. :confused:
Any suggestion?

LightningZERO, the best method I have fount is to take a pice of clear tape (like Scotch Tape since it is semi-low tack) and place the decal on the model and tape it down. Then take a blunt object (I use the dull side of a butter knife or teh edge of a spoon) and rub it all over until it looks like the decal has come off and looks somehwat more dull. Gently peel the tape back slowly and look to see that the transfer copied over. If parts haven't, place it back down and keep rubbing. Thats teh easiert way I found.

RedFrame, I'm assuming you are using the MG Freedom stand and not the one from the MG Strike? My use of the Strike stand was back heavy, but the MG Freedom stand works great. Make sure the wings are spread evenly (assuming they are in HiMAT mode) and I found the angle of the legs can help the weight. If the wings are folded down, try to make sure they are spread in a "triangle" shape, with the Gundam making up the top "point" of this triangle. That was how I was able to get mine to stay up with the wings in normal flight mode.

as OZC just stated... in addition to that if his method doesn't work, you could always rely on the o-so-useful Blue-Tak (or any other similiar product)... just stick some of that stuff in between the place where it's back bends so that it has more support and it doesn't fall back all the way... And I would assume the reason why your MG freedom bends over like that is because it's been sustained in that certain position for too long; or you've been playing around with it and bending/twisting it's parts quite a bit. I've got 2 MG Freedoms; one newly built, one about a year or two old... the older one has the same problem, but the new one is sturdier than a rock.

Scotch tape is the ABSOLUTE worse thing you can use with anything to do with models in general. You may have some good experience with it, but that only means you are extremely lucky. With paint, and other things, the tape will just end up runing things. Best to use is tamyia masking tape or from your local hardware store, 3M Blue Painter's tape. That stuff is very low tac and will be the best choice.

From all of my model building experience, any clear tape is just to be avoided. Even regular masking tape may be too strong. You cannot go wrong using the 3M Blue painters tape.

The only reason I suggest a clear tape is because you can see the transfer. I no longer use clear tape because I have had problems with my clearcoats and the tape ever since I started airbrusing my kits. But for someone working on what I would imagine is their first MG, the clear tape thends to help for practice. I use Tamiya masking tape now and it works great, but for the first few kits I did, the clear tape was good. I was actually using extremely cheap dollar store tape so it was even lower tack than real 3M Scotch Tape. That may have been why I had good luck with it. I still stand by using a blunt object like the back side of the knife or the spoon though. with the knife, you can get nice even wide strokes that transfer the decal with less effort.

Basically, I assumed, based on the lack of knowledge of the transfers themselves, that this was probably LightningZERO's first MG. I came off as though I still use the clear tape even now, but I never intended that.

I just tried the transfer. Wow, my Mk-II now look nice with extra details. Thanks for your help guys!!!

So why bother suggesting something that you yourself has had problems with? It would be less confusing and much better if you just suggested tamyia masking tape or even 3M blue painters tape from the start? Even if it was the guys first MG, what happens if he continues to build, then goes on and paints, and then screws up because the clear tape screwed him? Wouldn't it have been better to start off with the better method?

Giving suggestions and such is really great, but can also be really damaging if bad suggestions are given. Which is why I only give suggestions of things that I have experience with, or when I can show an example of the method I use.

Primarily, I made the (admittedly stupid and arrogant) assumption that the kit wasn't painted and that the transfers would be going onto bare plastic, which I'm sure you would agree, at that point, clear tape wouldn't be any worse than using any other tape since there wouldn't be any paint to pull up. As far as going on to building more and having the clear tape screw him, I'll be first to admit I hadn't looked at it that way. But, consider this...

Is that not precicely what I did? Add to my personal experience with it, quite a few of the tutorials I have seen (which would be written for a newbie) suggest the clear tape, it makes me instead wonder if I should let my clearcoat cure longer and then I can use the clear tape again. I'd be far happier if I could see that the whole decal had transferred versus using the non-clear tapes and trying to get it on in one shot. The more I have to lift the tape to check, the harder it can be to get it centered properly.

In any case, whats been said has been said, LightningZERO has, regardless of what tape he may have used, gotten the decals on his kit and is now richer for the experience. Isn't that what it's really all about? It's all a learning experience, bad advice or good. Luckily, and I'm not too proud to say it, there are far more experienced modelers such as yourself to correct mistakes like my own.

Hmmm, I have a HG Eva 01 with the Cage. It comes with a sticky transfer thing. I have seen people use a "wet" method where they put it into the water and then slowly peel away the back.

http://www.childofmecha.com/Modeling...ls_Demyst.html

Anyone here ever built the Eva 01 model and has used those decals?

Also, anyone here knows how to paint those little plastic figures that you get with the 1/100 Seed Models? What kind of paint should I use for those? I have 5 of them sitting there, with 5 more to come, unpainted, and it looks really ugly.

These were taken with my old man's camera - Nikkon 12 mega pixel SLR... and the backward flash unit that you can fire backward or toward the ceiling

the lens assembly came with the camera also has fully automated meter/spot focus with manual overide.. and other stuff over my head... tongue.gif

It takes 10MB TIFF and 4MB JPEG so I downsized JPEG below 1MB to post on imaheshack though kept the quality at the maximum...

what do you think?

Gundam Ready
Encounter 1
Encounter 2
PG Zaku II

nice post dj :)

cheers mate
took me some time doing that at the middle of night when everyone went to bed... :p

@dj898 - I love your MKII, it looks so nice and crisp. But on that shield, is that a gold sticker? Looks like it's coming off?

I am plannig to buy Strike Freedom and Infinite Justice but I would like to ask you, folks.

From these three versions which one is the best best product to buy? I mean good as no parts being falling out, stand up right, etc.
Seed Destiny #09 1/100 Strike Freedom Gundam
Seed Destiny #14 1/144 Strike Freedom Gundam
Seed Destiny #34 HG 1/144 Strike Freedom Gundam

I once bought 1/100 Aegis but it could not stand up and the legs came apart constantly. I would assume that 1/60 is the best but I am broke now and like to buy this week.

AND

Seed Destiny HG #32 1/144 Infinite Justice Gundam
I only could find this version on ebay; thus, is this product good?

yes it is and I'm yet to decide whether to paint or not since I overlooked that bits and by the time I realise it was bit late to go back to paint - call me lazy but wasn't going to drag out all compressor and all for that. :p

almost forgot I took this photo as well...
it's one of early models that I did as snap-assembly, never got around to paint

Mazinger Z HD

wow dj, that gouf custom kills mine anyday lol, how did u make the metal looking stuff on the edges of the legs?

that's just dry brushing as part of weathering...

HG 1/144 STrike FReedom is the best of 3 choices. better than 1/100...and Infinite justice is a fine choice... got this model myself, and it's highly accurate in detail; poses quite nicely (in fact i tend to believe that it poses quite similiarly to the HG 1/144 impulse gundam.) Besides, having I.Justice 144 and S.Freedom 144 standing next to each other certainly looks better than having 144 and 100 versions standing next to each other...

So, Gunota has the latest about the upcoming Gunpla...

MG Gyan (May, 3,675 yen)
HGUC Zaku I (May, 1,050 yen) - w/ machine gun, bazooka, spike shield, & sturm faust
1/100 Infinite Justice Gundam (May, 2,730 yen) - Seemingly the first in a revival of the 1/100 SEED Destiny line
EX Model Samson trailer (May, 3,150 yen)
BB Senshi Destiny Gundam (May, 840 yen)
HCM-Pro Gouf (May, 1,680 yen)
HCM-Pro Zaku II J Type (May, 1,890 yen) - w/ Magella Top, foot missles, & crackers

The revival of the Destiny 1/100 line is something I am very happy to hear. I imagine it is to tie in with the SE's. Getting a 1/100 IJ is great news too. Hopefully an Akatsuki and Legend will follow, as well as the missing Saviour, Gaia and Abyss.

The MG Gyan is also a great bit of news. Hopefully the MG F91 will soon follow.