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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Tak 2006-12-27 20:23

I don't care if Bandai is or isn't using Nu's Frame. All I care is that Bandai make a friggin Hi-Nu soon enough at an affordable price.

And when I say affordable, I do not mean that $80 price tag assocaited with the MG Sazabi.

- Tak

lycantivis 2006-12-27 21:16

So I did my first MG this weekend the GP02A not much customing on it tho just some paneling and tryed some paint to get the feel for it
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d2/GP02A-2.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...d2/gp02A-1.jpg

Though for xmas I got a MG Aile Strike which I did customize far more
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ileStrike2.jpg
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ileStrike1.jpg

Any input or sugestions for future work would be helpful. My next model is going to be FA-01S Full Armor ZZ

Tak 2006-12-27 21:19

That Strike looks oddly familiar... ~ ;)

- Tak

lycantivis 2006-12-27 23:58

yea it was modeled off your color basis added some more blue in other places than yours. I am quiet suprized with how well the gundam markers have worked out for me people made them sound like worthless tho I have probly done better with those than I could have with a paint brush and self mixed paint.

Tak 2006-12-28 01:01

Gundam markers are great. Especially when you want to paint difficult-to-reach places. You might want to use sand paper though, it works great on rubbing off the edges, as I noticed a few rough edges on the wings. You also might want to try using a 0.20mm black marker to paint the panels (that gray left a little mess).

And when taking pictures, use cloth to minimize the reflection.

- Tak

Meehlimo 2006-12-28 02:36

Yea u might wanna work on ur posing a bit too still props on the painting looks great fav colors .... lol..... anyway yea i did it everyone an orginal goldframe :D
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...o/IMGP0044.jpg

lycantivis 2006-12-28 03:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tak (Post 781687)
Gundam markers are great. Especially when you want to paint difficult-to-reach places. You might want to use sand paper though, it works great on rubbing off the edges, as I noticed a few rough edges on the wings. You also might want to try using a 0.20mm black marker to paint the panels (that gray left a little mess).

And when taking pictures, use cloth to minimize the reflection.

- Tak

Great input thanks. I was using a genaric nail file to take off the sprew edges on the pieces but on a few of the parts they was still that little like white mark. And when I was trying to take that mark away I ended up leaving scratch marks on the piece around the sprew mark. Any suggestions on how to deal with that? Like should I be using a finer grade sand paper? Or should I just count on filling in the scratches with paint?

As for the paneling if your talking about the thick line on the right middle panel on the GP02's shield that was my failed attempt to see how well the black gundam marker works for panel, not so good as I found. Most of the other panels I was doing with a ultra sharp point sharpie, I have read that sharpies arn't the best for paneling seeing how they fade with age. But worked out quiet well for my first atempts seeing how I could just wipe it away and redo the line.

You need to keep in mind those are my first two attempts at actual gunpla. All in all I'm very happy with the feedback/outcome and thank you for those who are helping me!

Tak 2006-12-28 10:52

But you want to take out those edges before you paint them. Scratch them off, and then cover them with paint.

Don't know if you did it, but the best way to do it is to paint individual parts before assembling them. Works a lot better than actually painting them after assembly.

You might also want to consider a paint remover. Works wonders. ;)

- Tak

Meehlimo 2006-12-28 16:56

LISTEN UP!!! DO NOT BUY THE SPECIAL EDITION SF it is deff not worth it the gold plated parts r horrible . I ended up spraying over them with my own shiny nice gold. The gold plating is in the style of the old gundam wing 1/100 models like wing zero epyon exc. not worth it! Btw thsi is commmin from sumone who loves the freedom design not a hater

dragoonfj123 2006-12-28 17:18

all have so many 1/144 models it's not even funny lol...., i have the 1/100 freedom, justice, 12 zaku's, 4 strike rouge(painted it red lol), 4 normal strikes, sky grasper, and providence all master's. i also have a 200$ archangel lol. these are all my gundam seed. i have GSD ones too but not as much i mainly have the main ones, not like all the zaku's aand goufs =D. the GSD i have are strike freedom, destiny, 4 diffrent impluse forms, gaia, abyss, and chaos all perfect and 1/100's. i have like only 2, stike freedom lightning, and a force impluse, 1/60's tho =/ i'm currently trying to get all my masetyers to perfects and then getting allt eh zaku's in GS, lil short on cash tho, damn those perfects *raises fists*

P.S. i have 1/12 red zaku it really set me back about 2k or so

MakubeX2 2006-12-28 17:23

It's funny seeing all the values of the MG SF Full Burst sky rocketing on Online Auction sites when it's obvious Bandai will reissue it. Shows that majority of the SEED Fanboys are sheeps to the slaughter.

Can't wait to see the faces of those who bought the kit at exorbital prices when Bandai reissue the kit.

jbui 2006-12-28 17:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tak (Post 781687)

And when taking pictures, use cloth to minimize the reflection.

- Tak


Tak, do you mean place cloth for the background?

GameraBaenre 2006-12-28 18:19

To minimize reflection, just don't use the flash. Use some lights. A big piece of thick colored art paper works as a good background as well. Here's the type of photography set up I use:
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/r...%20076_jpg.jpg
Granted the it's a figure in the picture, but the same basic set up is used when I take pictures of my finished gunpla. The flash flushes out colors and has a horrible reflection when taken against shiny object. Best to just turn off the flash and use other lighting sources. If you have a nice sunlight outside, then use the same set up without the lights and you get even better pictures.

lycantivis 2006-12-28 19:13

Where do you guy get most of your models? Cause I have been looking on ebay and what little sellection there is in my local area. And most of the ones I want like the sazabi MG, EX-S MG are like all stupid exspencive like US $100 or not available in my shops I go to.

Any suggestions for next models and a good price they should be? I like the blue astray with the sword, also like the red version but is it worth it for the more money just for a different factory color? I also like the Wing Ver Ka but whats a decent price to get it at? Also the Crossbone Full Cloth MG only one I have seen is 70 is that a good price? Call me elistist already but I really don't wanna do any thing under hg 1/100 and even then it would have to be something not available as a MG. Unless there is something amazing about a few you guys can enlighten me on.

EDIT: Also as far as pricing any one know of a store that would ship from japan or such area to the US with the prices as seen in some pictures like the ones in the ourageous pictures thread? Cause those prices were stupid cheap compaired what I have been paying. Like I paid 40 for my GP02A MG, 60 for my Full Armor ZZ MG, and 45 for my Aile Strike MG. But I look at the prices of some of the HG 1/100s and they are still around 25-30 and those in the pictures are like 10.

SNT1 2006-12-28 22:11

I believe you can't find those in online sites, but rainbowten.co.jp is the cheapest JP store....

and NA stores could be just as cheap *COUGHSHIPPINGcough*, if you live in NA. the bigger MGs and PGs are shipped by EMS, which could altogether be just as expensive as NA stores + their shipping, plus NA stores arrive to you within one week (usually 3-4 business days for me)

Tak 2006-12-28 22:34

If you don't mind the wait, just use SAL. Rainbowten.co.jp is the cheapest Japanese store with "English" navigation. There are cheaper ones, but for non-Japanese readers, navigation may be difficult.

Hell, the MG Strike Freedom (regular edition, I figure I can do away without the gold) I purchased was less than $50, and I am quite pleased. It may take a while to get to me, but its all good.

- Tak

DarkWarrior 2006-12-28 22:42

I always use RainbowTen + SAL shipping, unless it isn't an option. It's usually the cheapest way, but the trade-off is time and uncertainty. SAL can take anywhere from 2-4 weeks, and it doesn't have any tracking information so you have no clue where your package is, or even if it got lost. Hasn't failed me yet though, so I'm not complaining.

WaytoDawn 2006-12-28 23:19

Excuse me Meehlimo, but can you tell me what kind of gold paint yr using for the SF? pls reply.

wavehawk 2006-12-29 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaytoDawn (Post 779339)
First off, i am planning to paint the parts from the SF model that are not gold plated. Is Tamiya Gold paint(gloss) suitable?

- Well, there's actually TWO Tamiya gold paints (Enamel): Gold Leaf and Titanium Gold. Titanium Gold is less 'shiny' than Gold Leaf, but it more resembles the kind of "gold" parts you see on computer chips or high-performance machinery (such as sportscars). Gold Leaf is closer to the actual metal. IMHO, Titanium Gold is better, but I suggest you look at finished models with both kinds of paint then decide for yourself.

Quote:

Second, which type of clear coat is suitable for a model in yr opinion? I'm planning to apply a coat of clear coat(gloss) on the internal frame including the gold plated parts. Does this affect the gold plated parts whatsoever?
- IMHO, I go for (Testor's) Dullcote, but that's because I prefer not to have a glossy look to my MS. I can't say for glosscote, but Titanium Gold under Dullcote is OK--then again, it's not as shiny as Gold Leaf.

Quote:

Ok, here is my real problem...If i apply a coat of clear coat(dull/matt) on the whole finnished model, will it affect the previous clear coat(gloss) of the internal frame? I'd also like a suggestion on which type of clear coat is more suitable on the whole model if i don't use clear coat(dull/matt).
- If you apply Dullcote to a gloss paint, the color will dull. In fact (I mentioned this in this thread awhile back), for some Master Grade kits, all you really need is a layer of dullcote to make it look good, because it gets rid of that "plasticky" gloss look. So yes, a gloss caint will be flat or matt in appearance when you coat it with dullcote. I can't say if the reverse is true (flat paint and gloss clearcote), since I've personally never tried it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mangatron
I would really wish bandai would make a basic, Gundam Seed inner-frame and just sell the armor parts seperately for all the GS gundams, that would make my day

- They're doing something similar with the Formula-series Master Grades (F91 and Crossbone). But those frames are too small for other UC Gundams or the Seed series. You could do what the Hobby Japan/Dengeki Hobby magazine guys do: Buy a Master Grade which has roughly the dimensions you want, and an HG kit of the 1/100 Seed kit you want to modify, then put them together. But that's a lot tougher than it sounds--I'm still on hands and knees trying to convert a Master Grade F91 into an F90...

..and knowing Bandai, they'll announce a Master Grade Gundam F90 right after I've finished building mine...(mutters thoughts of death)

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis
I am quiet suprized with how well the gundam markers have worked out for me people made them sound like worthless tho I have probly done better with those than I could have with a paint brush and self mixed paint.

- I guess it depends on the person. I'm better with actual paint and brush than with Gundam Markers. The only exception being the "Sumi" (ink) Gundam Markers, which I need for the linework. But I still think that brushes are better--and definitely cheaper.

mangatron 2006-12-29 06:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragoonfj123 (Post 782368)
all have so many 1/144 models it's not even funny lol....

Well, I may not have as much as the Dalong, but it's a rather odd collection:

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger2/...trongundam.jpg
Click on image for more on the story

While I may not be too fond of 1/144's, I do find them very amusing in that 90% of the parts are all interchangeable with each other with practically no modding at all. I did like my Strike Gundam with a Zaku Warrior shield :heh:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Meehlimo (Post 782341)
LISTEN UP!!! DO NOT BUY THE SPECIAL EDITION SF it is deff not worth it the gold plated parts r horrible . I ended up spraying over them with my own shiny nice gold. The gold plating is in the style of the old gundam wing 1/100 models like wing zero epyon exc. not worth it! Btw thsi is commmin from sumone who loves the freedom design not a hater

Let's just let Dalong show people the "light" :heh:

On a side note it isn't all that bad, for one thing I understand why it isn't Hyaku-shiki bling mostly because this is just the inner frame that is gold plated. I can imagine a Hyaku-shiki with full gold plated inner-frame...:heh:

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 782724)

- You could do what the Hobby Japan/Dengeki Hobby magazine guys do: Buy a Master Grade which has roughly the dimensions you want, and an HG kit of the 1/100 Seed kit you want to modify, then put them together. But that's a lot tougher than it sounds--I'm still on hands and knees trying to convert a Master Grade F91 into an F90...

..and knowing Bandai, they'll announce a Master Grade Gundam F90 right after I've finished building mine...(mutters thoughts of death)

You know, it's kind of hard knowing that I want so much to make 1/60 Perfect Grade Aegis and Blitz gundams out of the PG Strike, but that's totally reliant on a hack job :heh:

Either way, I find it a nightmare making every GS gundam MG'ized myself knowing that it would be easier for a company to do it for me :heh:


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