I think it looks great props man.
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Blue Destiny Unit 2 Review
http://www.geocities.jp/lifezoids/HGUC-77.htm |
Wow, the blue destiny sure is, BLUE!!!
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need help with my strike freedom MG model! >.<
I recently bought a 1/100 Strike Freedom MG model, after various 1/144 models i decided to go for a bigger one, and also im determined to make it look as good as the front cover makes it, the problem is the panel lines.
I searched up various guides that tell me to either use a gundam marker or a enamel washing method, i was going for the marker method, but i found out that the gold joints have very very fine panel lines that might prove a problem, and this being my first time doing it. The other choice is the enamel washing method, however im not very confident with my own skills with this, ive read how to do it but too many details are left out, do i do each piece individually or dunk in a few pieces at the same time? if anybody knows anything that might help me please advise me!!!!! thank you in advance ^^ |
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/howto/wash.htm
http://www.themodelmakersresource.co...rticle003.html basically a very thin paint mixture Working on a Hasegawa Valkyrie myself. I'm planning to use a watercolour wash as it's my first try and it's a bit more forgiving i've been told. Just use a small brush to drip the wash into the nooks and crannies and wipe the excess off. |
No need for that, dont finish the gundam and ink it. You ink it first then put them together.
Instead of using a knife to scrape of the ink. Use a round shape or sharp edge rubber, just ink on the lines and if it gets out, you use a rubber and wipe on top of it and the ink will still sit inside the lines, thats what i did to MG Strike Noir's face. But dont do it when the ink is already dry. |
I just use a gundam marker and then wipe off the surface with a tissue. Because there's depth, even wiping the surface off, the ink will remain in the depth. If there inking not heavy enough, do it one more time. I did that with my MG freedom and MG wing zero custom and felt fine with it. Will do the same with my MG Strike freedom as well. You can try and if not sastify, try the methods suggested by others. And yes, do it while it's not dry.
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What would you guys say is the best site with the best inventory/prices to get these kits from?
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thanks for the ideas guyz, i'm leaning to the washing method right now and i also wanted to know
since i should ink it before making, should i leave the pieces uncut when inking? because if i cut them out, i might have some trouble finding the right pieces when making. The other problem is will the ink dry too fast if i ink a whole one of those sections at once? |
Having only ever done two gundams ever, (your basic HG kits) It is a bucket load easier to do it still attached to the sprues
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Dalong has initial info up on MG MS-06J Zaku II v2.0:
MG MS-06J Zaku II v2.0 Looking at the parts, It really does look like Bandai made this MG specifically to be variant-ready, aka ready to be molded into more MG Zaku variants ^^; |
Yeah, we would probably see the Commander, F2, Kai and the MSVs like the Johnny Ridden's version.
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This will give the model a better finish when painting, and its better to do this when they are still connected to the spruce first as its easier. As for paints; I usually use a combination of enamel markers and if your steady enough I use a Tamiya/Badger spray units. I also use common materials that you can find around the home, like charcoal, ash from a fire, pastels, and anything that you want to experiement with - just remember that theres no right or wrong way of doing things just experiement on some scrap plastic or very cheap models before completing your Gundam master piece!! Have fun and take your time; like I'm still in the process of painting my 1/60 Strike and PG Strike which have taken about two months and with my day job as well!! Good luck :) |
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All these MGs...so little money... :(
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Compare this pic of the DRAGOONS to the ones on your kit: http://www.dalong.net/review/mg/m97s/p/m97s_32.jpg |
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