Not for HG 00 lovers who dislike the 1/100 version.........like myself.

Sure,we get XN Raiser.........but I want ALL OF IT!!!!!![inset evil maniacal greed laugh]

The mod is very expensive I hear.


Not too sure whether the picture in question is talking about The Sword or is just talking about 00V Senki.




Just in case my previous question does not get totally overshadowed by the latest image:

ive never airbrushed or plan on getting one but ive seen a lot of how to vids on youtube.

see this amazin 0 gundam mod on http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/phoenix9135/8507593.html

Holy....hell fuck!!!

Now THAT is a Full Armor 0 Gundam!!

*favorites*

I'll try answering these to the best of my ability, but like you, I'm also an amateur, though I've been painting Transformer toys, so I don't see any real differences.

1. I'd say BEFORE assembling the kit. If you spray painted it fully assembled, it's more than likely you'd miss a spot or two, since some will be covered up by extra pieces. If you did it piece by piece, you'd be able to do it more accurately. But that said, you should also be mindful of how many coats of paint you put on each part.

2. Actually, this depends on the modeler, but most prefer to paint it on the sprues. It's easier, and you don't have to hold the piece, so you won't be risking any fingerprint marks on the part.

3. I...have no idea. I never used primer before. Although I KNOW I should. >_>

4. I have absolutely no experience with air brushing, but I guess you can hang it up or something? I've seen people use clotheslines to make their parts stationary.

Bottled version: http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZSF-283
Spray can version: http://plajapan.com/product_info.php?products_id=142

It works like a paint color except that it is not exactly a paint color. In this case to the above link, this primer is white in color.

What it does is basically to allow a lighter color paint to be applied and stay more evenly on a darker color surface. (For example, you are trying to get yellow on a black surface, well you do know you will have to apply yellow like 2-3 coats before you can't see the black surface below anymore aye? Using primer 1st then the yellow, you can do it in 1 coat. Saves time too.)

And primer is thinned the same way paint is. As for using it with airbrush, sure you can.

nice concept, but it still looks kinda rough compared to those sleek & smooth-looking 00V scratch-builds from the Hobby mags,
which i still had no idea on how the heck did they do that & what kind of equipment did they actually used to make such feats? :heh:

I have hopes for the future that Bandai will release more 00V, 00P kits as HGs or 1/100s

If you spray the runners, clip the parts, you still have unpainted areas where you clipped the parts. I recommend doing sub assemblies. Forearms, calves, upper torso, lower torso, head, upper arm, thighs, etc... makes for easy painting.

This question is similar to your first one. Or just builds off it. Always better to spray after cutting the parts from the runners.

Primer is used for three things:
-Neutralizing the paint color like previously stated folks have said, if you want to paint a lighter tone over a part molded in dark colors, primers help neutralize it.
-Primers show where you have surface defects, sanding mistakes, etc, so you can go back and fix these areas then reprime to check.
-Primers also help bridge paint adhesion. It helps give the paint a better surface to bite into and lowers the chance of paint chipping or not sticking to the part.

[/quote]
How are you holding on to the part while airbrushing? What pressure are you airbrushing at? I run my airbrush at 15-18 psi when painting. I'm also holding onto the parts using alligator clips mounted on skewers to hold the parts:
http://gamerabaenre.com/images/char_...%20033_jpg.jpg

Here is a tutorial for airbrushing: http://gamerabaenre.com/airbrushing.htm
And if you want to check out some other tutorials, here: http://gamerabaenre.com/toolsandtechs.htm

007S is getting a kit? As in a normal gunpla kit? Or are you referring to the resin kit? And howd you knwo this?

And if 007S does come with the new sword...wouldn't that be like...8 swords?

Thanks for the reply [And to the previous folks as well].I dont know what air pressure I'm using since I'm using Tamiya's Spray Works Basic [The compressor and the airbrush],and I've broken the airbrush somehow.It still works but the the control mechanism is a bit iffy,I have to control the needed using my hand to control the air release.Planning to get a new one someday.

Anf I hold the part with my hand,yup that didnt turn out to well and I keep blowing the part away.Trial and error I guess,I'm still new to this and since I always have to keep one hand to the needle it makes spraying the part really difficult.

Thanks for the primer info but I'm still wondering if they can be used with airbrushes?Sounds like an easy question but I guess I am that clueless about them and painting in general.:(

By the way,when you say "clip the runners",what exactly do you mean by that?

And,is spraying the "Head" after assembly advisable?Since th head does hold many different sections with different colors.

Oh and your suppose to use masking tape to cover parts that you do not want to spray right?

Before I answer these questions, I'd just like to apologize in advance for typing so much, if you decide to read this in the first place. . I just like talking about models and stuff.

Really depends. If you're going the whole nine yards and removing seam lines, then obviously after assembly. If you aren't, then its really your choice.

Its a lot easier to paint/spray a piece as a piece alone, but I always paint after assembly (of a part, not the whole kit) regardless unless its a really small piece (such as vents) or pieces that are one-chance only, such as the "condensers" on some 1/144 HG 00 kits. Do note that I don't only spray to color my kits, though.

Reason being that I don't like to handle any painted piece after I've painted it. Its a pain in the ass, even with topcoat, etc etc.

Well this question isn't really like the first one. So I think it deserves another answer.

Paint/spray after you've clipped the piece off unless you want to save spray paint (which is actually not a bad option since the damn cans cost so much). Generally speaking, all the pieces on a runner aren't of the same dimensions. So you shouldn't just spray right over all of them equally since smaller pieces would just get smothered in paint (terrible results), or larger pieces didn't get enough paint.

Also, cleaning nub marks on pieces after spraying over them is a terrible pain, regardless of your patience.

But if you do decide to paint while they're on the runner, study the runner for a couple of seconds and I'm sure you can get it right easily.

As for the nub marks, cut the pieces out really close. After, if you have any bottled paints (I'd assume you do since you have an airbrush), go over them really quickly. If you happen to not have that color, spray a tiny bit of spray into a small container and use a TOOTHPICK to go over them.

Do NOT use any brush to apply paints from a can. Spray paints are thinned to hell and are made to dry extremely fast, especially on small areas like brushes. You do not want to be cleaning lacquer off brushes...

Primer is primer. There isn't one to be used for AB's since AB's don't use any special types of paints (as far as I'm concerned). Special "AB paints" are generally just regular paints but pre-thinned.

I'd suggest you not rely too heavily on Mr. Hobby, Tamiya or Gunze sprays any more and start finding other alternatives, such as Games Workshop and Testors since spray cans are no longer shippable from Japan.

How are they being blown out of your hands? Its most likely because you're setting the PSI too high or holding the piece too close.

While alligator clips and skewers are effective, there is nothing better than the control of your own hands. So while you sacrifice a couple of gloves, the results would generally look better, at least for me.

If you can't control the air power, then either set your compressor to a lower setting. If you can't, then put the piece REALLY far away from the brush. An AB shouldn't be more powerful than anything that comes out of a spray can. If it is, then just place the piece at the very end of where the air/paint would reach. Wastes more paint that way, though. So I suggest you just buy another AB.

Definitely do not spray the head. The head is most often the part with the most colors. So you should probably spray those individually.



Resolutions to all your problems: don't use an AB. I've actually been using my AB less and less and just resort to hand painting. One, its a lot more fun. Using an AB seems more like a chore than fun. Two, its a lot less of a pain in the ass. And three, I have way more control.

But of course, I don't build MG's primarily anymore. MG kits are made piece by piece, so you can spray them piece by piece, which is way easier. The results would also be a bit smoother. So if you build MG kits, or any other kits would very specific pieces, go right ahead and use your AB.

I make SD's and 1/144's the most now, since they are the most cheap to buy, and fun, yet challenging, to hand paint. So...yeah. Walls of text FTW.

Thanks alot for the info.I use airbrush primaryly for large surface painting,At least I plan to.Unfortunately I'm not good at handpainting either,they never seem to look even and I cant see myself handpainting large surface area.

Your right on the money about the runner parts,they's not even and my first runner spray,HG Arche,did not go too well at first.I mean the final result is ugly compared to most pros but I'm still proud of it.

Also,what do you mean by this:

Considering that I do rely on Mr. Hobby mostly,I am afraid of this statement.Why is it no longer shippable?

The 007S was posted a few pages back. I know this because (for the RD figure) the news has been everywhere.

The 007S figure comes out this saturday.:D

The resin kit is the mod for the HG 1/144 version and cost a pretty penny if I recall.

There is a 1/100 version coming though.

What I love about that FA 0 Gundam, is that the designer constructed the GN Missiles to look like they have condenser material in the head of them. Now that is a good idea.

You guys will be floored by this hg 1/144 nu gundam mod. its the best nu gundam mod i have ever seen or simply the greatest.This guy is a genius!http://www1.inacatv.ne.jp/~ak-craft/gallery/nyuhsr.html

That is pretty impressive.

its the best, i feel like adding the twin drive system to it.Not like 00 gundam but that of reborns gundam(on elbows). it would look awesome.this gundam was sold for 20000 yen:p

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/3254/1256256083655.jpg

Will be picking up my copy of that later today.
Of course my build will be nothing like the above since I'm not skilled at applying paint and all.