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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

DarkWarrior 2007-01-06 19:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by MakubeX2 (Post 789972)
It was already "Full Cloth" on the X3/X1 Kai-Kai FIX Figuration Packaging. Most likely a mistranslation of the Katakana "クロス" (Ku-ro-su). Full Cloth sounds more logical.

I stand corrected. Full Cloth sounds odd to me, but I've seen worse like Slaughter Dagger.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derringer (Post 790755)
It's not that the wings wear down if you move them up and down. The wing pegs need to be put together in exactly the right spot so the male and female portions line up perfectly. If it's off, it'll still rotate, but it will cause the tearing that was pointed out.

Actually I figured out what was the problem with mine. All the parts were lined up correctly since I saw the multiple warnings on Dalong's site.. however because most of the parts of the wings were painted, they had a hard time moving with the extra coat. The soft peg/joint couldn't hold up and deformed slightly. I definitely screwed up in this case.

pmajin 2007-01-07 15:08

I would like to add on to the assembly problems of Strike Freedom MG...
In addition to the perfect geometry needed to put the wings together... one must also pay attention to the tubes that hold the 'flying dragoons' in place...obviously this doesn't apply to normal Strike Freedom MG users, but only FULLBURST users.
What your'e SUPPOSE to do before bending them... is to submerge them into hot water. That is, the hottest water you can get out of your tap. once it's in hot water (or basically, once it's hot/warm), you then bend it. This is what it says directly in the manuel as well... but i'm sure most of us here probably couldn't find it, let alone read it...

gluck with building!

WaytoDawn 2007-01-08 01:22

Nice SF you got there Meehlimo! is that the FB kit or the normal ver? I too just got my SF (finally) but too bad no FB cause of some lousy shop keeper:frustrated:
all i need now is a can of gold paint and matt topcoat and i shall start building.

now where to find gold leaf type paint......:eyespin:

Meehlimo 2007-01-08 19:55

Its the FB kit i didnt even use the gold plated joints they were done horribly so i just pained my own every bit of gold on that kit is painted by me and my fav pefect metalic gold paint :D. If u live in the US get this kind gold spary paint Rust-oleum specialty metalic gold best gold i have ever seen for models. Almost resembles brass finish. I got mine at home depot

wavehawk 2007-01-09 03:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre
It could be that the resin you had was poor quality resin. But if you are making a blanket statement that resin is much harder than ip plastic, based on one kit - I would suggest you try a few more resin kits out.

- Point taken. However, I might not be buying any resin parts soon (money issues plus budget holding for upcoming HGUC GM Quels). I usually only buy parts I think I really need for a kit/kitbash.

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaytoDawn
all i need now is a can of gold paint and matt topcoat and i shall start building.

- Just to remind you: try testing the gold paint (remember, there might be different kinds) and matt topcoat on a sample piece of plastic first before you actually do go for it. Just to see if the effect is what you want.

WaytoDawn 2007-01-09 05:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 793848)
- Just to remind you: try testing the gold paint (remember, there might be different kinds) and matt topcoat on a sample piece of plastic first before you actually do go for it. Just to see if the effect is what you want.

Thanks for the reminder!:D I was acctually planning to use Titanium Gold for the inner frame with a coat of gloss topcoat, while the outter armour is coated with a layer of matt topcoat. That way, i think the gold parts will stand out a little more.
Well, all i gotta do is to wait for that matt topcoat...:heh:

And i don't live in the u.s. so too bad, i can't get that Rust-oleum type paint...:eyespin:

LoweGear 2007-01-09 13:19

Would you want your MS like this?

HGUC Gaplant TR-5 pimped to the max

:heh:

lycantivis 2007-01-09 16:01

http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/...usai/jusai.htm
Ok so I know that this model was heavily modified but how? Can some one exsplain to me how they modified the wings to be so big and what they used to detail everything that has been changed. I know about resin kits but that doesn't seem like a resin kit because it shows some white/green smuging of some product that I would assume is what they used to enlarge certain pieces. And if some one had a link to an english site that has a walkthrough or at least an exsplanation of the product that would help alot.

Thanks in advance

-lycan

GameraBaenre 2007-01-09 17:05

Not too sure how much this will help, but I've done a few modification projects using tamiya epoxy putty, styrene sheets, etc. Most recently is this project that is still in progress: http://www.gamerabaenre.com/0080_desert_dio_prog.htm
In the following picture, you can see where I use epoxy putty to fill in the forehead and add some shape to the kampfer's chin; and you can see where I used some styrene to add some length to the head.
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/0...%20065_jpg.jpg

With most of bulk up work, most modelers will use sheet styrene or metal rods as the base structure. Then use epoxy putty to fill in areas and add shapes and such. Once the putty cures, it can be sanded and scribed to add more details.

lycantivis 2007-01-09 17:33

So this epoxy puddy from a modeling shop only or can I get it like at home depot or something? Cuase I have been geting my gundams and markers from a anime store and don't know of any hobby shops around my area.

GameraBaenre 2007-01-09 18:31

Well the tamiya epoxy putty I use is from my local hobby shop. You can probably find them from several online sources as well.

Some of my local home depots carry this stuff: http://polymericsystems.com/quikplastik.htm
Quikplastik, which is another type of epoxy putty. I have not used the stuff, but fellow modelers have used this as well as aquamend which is also made by the same company and found at home depot.

My only experience is using miliput (yet another type of epoxy putty) and Tamiya Epoxy Putty (which is my putty of choice).

I would recommend you get your local phone book and search for hobby shops around you - granted that they probably will not have gundams there, and if they do, they're usually overpriced; but you can get all sorts of tools and supplies that are necessary for the type of modifications you are interested in.

lycantivis 2007-01-09 18:39

Ok kewl. Thanks for the help.

Kinda off topic but http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/t...way+to+Heaven/ in that picture is a nirvash type 1 the size of a 1/60 gundam any one know if thats a model or a fix generation?

wavehawk 2007-01-10 03:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 794373)
Ok so I know that this model was heavily modified but how? Can some one exsplain to me how they modified the wings to be so big and what they used to detail everything that has been changed.

- Well, other than Resin kits, there's two ways:

1.) Use Epoxy Putty like Tamiya Epoxy Putty or Milliput, as GameraBaenre has shown. Epoxy Putty is basically a clay-like substance you can use to mould certain parts. I've used both the Milliput and Tamiya Epoxy Putty, and they function pretty much the same, although Millput seems to be cheaper (a box of Millput Regular and Tamiya Epoxy Quick Type cost AU$8-9, but the Tamiya boxes are smaller and contain less). I'm not too good with Putty since I fumblewhen modling them with my hands--you might need a bit of practice when sculpting some more complex stuff from putty (I tried to build an original Beam Rifle design from Epoxy Putty--a horrible mistake).

2.) Use Sheet Styrene (Pla-Plate). Simply put, it's a flat sheet of Polystyrene plastic--the same sort of plastic used in most Gundam kits. If Epoxy Putty is ideal for parts you want to mould, Styrene plate is ideal for flat surfaces ot rods, pipes, etc. The one most common in Australia is the brand Evergreen, and they mainly sell Styrene plates for Railroad models, so there are a few that have textures like roofings or sidings. what you'll normally need are the plain flat plates, which some in different thicknesses, as well as pipes and rods (if you need them). All you need is styrene cement (basically, any plastic model cement) to put them together.

I think that Infinite Justice's wings might be built from Styrere, but that's just a guess.


SOME NOTES:
- There are two kinds of Putty: Contour Putty and Epoxy Putty. Contour Putty is more for filling in gaps or smoothing out some edges. Make sure you know which one you're using, and what for.
- Tamiya Epoxy Putty is NOT Tamiya Putty. Tamiya Putty (in a toothpaste-like tube) is used as a "filler" Putty, or else as a means of 'roughing up' a surface (kind of like Surface Primer). Tamiya Epoxy Putty is two strips of claylike material, an adhesive and a hardener, which you have to mix together
- Dengeki Hobby and Hobby Japan use a kind of Putty called "PolyPut" -- Polyester Putty. I don't know much about the stuff.

Here's an example of using both Epoxy Putty and Styrene Plate to customize a model--in this case, an HGUC GM (One Year War) into an RGM-79R GM-II (Zeta Gundam). The yellowish parts you see are Epoxy Putty, some of the white parts (like the bits on the backpack) are Styrene Plate:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awk/GMII-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...awk/GMII-2.jpg

WaytoDawn 2007-01-10 06:08

Btw, when you want to spray paint a certain part for instance the blue parts on the rifles of SF that require stickers, what must i use to cover up the other white parts that i do not want to turn blue.( i tried using celophane tape on an older model and it ended up like crap....)

dodgethis_sg 2007-01-10 06:16

Low-tack masking tape. Use lighter fluid to remove any adhesive left over.

MakubeX2 2007-01-10 09:47

There is a reissue for MG SF Full Burst Mode schedueled for June this year for those interested. Wonder if anyone is still feverish for the kit by that time.

Also, something interesting I've noticed....

92. MG GM Sniper Nov '06
93. MG SF Dec '06
94. Crossbone X-1 Full Cloth Jan '07
95. MG Hi-Nu Feb '07
96. ... Mar '07
97. ... Apr '07
98. ... May '07
99. ... Jun '07
100. ... July'07

Place your bets for the upcoming MG Kits, especially for the 100th.

SNT1 2007-01-10 09:57

Char's Zaku 2.0 or Turn-A Gundam for #100

DarkWarrior 2007-01-10 11:01

I've probably said this numerous times already, but I'm betting on a MG Destiny before the 100th MG. And knowing Bandai, we'll get some kind of recolor also.

As for the 100th, Char's Zaku II 2.0 sounds reasonable to me. As long as it's something without "RX-78" in its name.

MakubeX2 2007-01-10 18:05

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/2285/pn0686iro9.jpg

duotiga 2007-01-10 18:18

MG Hi-Nu Gundam - Comes with display stand and Fin Funnel thruster effects parts.


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