Yeah, that kit looks too good.

So going to pick it up when i get my paycheck ;;

i think they actually had it on sale at HLJ during their last big campaign.

I love how people are "using their time wisely" by taking screen caps of my comments over at GG's blog. =D

They did? damnit. Oh well, i'll just pick it up whenever it's on sale the next time i guess, it's one mighty fine kit, it'll be my Second 00 MG (GN-X being the first one)

Only your second 00 MG kit?

Oh dear..

My 00 kits in MG..

Exia
Exia (Ignition Mode)
00 Raiser
00 Raiser 7 Sword G
00 Qan[T]

Waiting for MG Exia R2 and MG 00 Qan[T] ELS. Those 2 would make my 00 series MG kits complete. :eyespin: :heh:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_PD7z0Ez-c&hd=1

isnt R2 basically Exia with 2 Beam sabers, new back skirt? and the Raiser's GN sword?

Yes. It is.
Also, the blue on the armor is a different shade, thigh parts are different, etc

Here's some picture differences.



Exia (front)
http://images.wikia.com/gundam/image...Front_View.jpg

Exia Repair 2 (front)
http://images.wikia.com/gundam/image...Front_View.jpg


Exia (back)
http://images.wikia.com/gundam/image..._Back_View.jpg

Exia Repair 2 (back)
http://images.wikia.com/gundam/image..._Back_View.jpg


Basically, I'm a bit shocked that we still don't have a MG release for Exia R2. Sure it doesn't show up much in the series, but they made an SD and HG for it so why not an MG? It's a lead and for the most part, Bandai could get away with reusing most of the MG Exia and MG 00 Raiser parts.

Has anyone built the HG Genoace Custom, G-Exes, and G-Bouncer? Why is it that the waist and shoulder connections feel really loose? How do I tighten that up a bit?

HGs tend to be a little lose. thats just the way they are. you can make the joints tigher with super glue or clear nail polish. you just have to make really sure that you let them cure completely. thats why i prefer to use clear nail polish, its not so bad when something goes wrong.

I have the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Would that work? :confused:

Episode 2 of the gunpla building podcast series: http://gamerabaenre.com/?p=2565

i was just trying to assemble the foot for my nebula blitz (repainted to original black/red scheme) and the 1 tab broke on the heel jutting out from the back of the sole. i'll have to super glue the thing on once i deal with the clearance issue. i have 3 coats of Humbrol paint (white, black matt cote) on the 2 peices. the 2 pegs were cleaned of excess paint but the fit is very tight on the peg holes they're supposed to go in. i tried putting the peice upside down to test the fit. looks like some matt cote got into thepeg holes. is there anything i can do? i cant even get a tool inside to ream it. i used a drill bit to ream it clean and then screwed it up more when applying some plastic cement. now both tabs are broken inside. is the only option to superglue it? the peice in question is the 30degree angle ankle armour in the back.

time to:

a. get the kit again
b. order the part from hlj or other places

:naughty:

im more inclined to go with option B. atm i dont plan to spend another $50 for another kit. i'll need to take pics and send an email. problem i already cut off the broken peices to make a smooth surface to contact the base. will that make it harder for them to send the peice and how long would it take to get in? i havent made an attempt to remove the tabs that are stuck to the 2 proper pegs yet.

hmm. any pictures? if i understand it correctly the 2 pegs of the pointy part of the heel is broken and stuck in main foot piece? if it's not supposed to move much you can just drop a bit of cement on the broken pegs on both pieces and push them together. from pics on dalong it looks like the pointy bit fits nicely between the 2 walls of the main foot piece..you can try and add a little cement there too.

i'll get pics later on, i have things to attend to atm but yes the 2 pegs are stuck inside. i used mate cote to matt the gloss paint as the usual Humbrol matt black dries up way too fast. the matt cote is realtivly liquidy. there clearance on the walls is ok, its the extra paint that seeped in that i didnt notice that made me force too much. the 2nd peg broke easily from fatigue (from first 2 attempt to force in) and some weakening fro the paint. i cleared out the rest of the matt cote with a small drill bit for a smooth clean fit.

i can buy super glue (none atm) or use some aquarium silicone (have lots atm) which is pretty solid when it finally hardens. i just remebered about my AQ silicon. i think the AQ silicone will be the better choice as i can remove it if i play enough to remove it later on. ive used some aq silicone to fix a broken tail on a painted glass figurine from years ago and it solid enough. it still annoys me that i overlooked such a stupid detail to fit the peice in.

the kit will still take lots of time for me to complete. ive done all purple areas ans 90% of red areas. the legs are nearly comlpete and hip is assemble though i havent put on the hip armour. complete repaints usually do that for me. most of the time i keep the stock colours and match the paint to avoid stickers (minus the eyes if possible). the variantion armour will be painted to go with the normal Blitz scheme

Has bandai named a release date for the age 3 fortress hg?

No. Just keep checking GG.

Woohoo, managed to score all 10 types in one box of 1/288 gunpla collection. Having a blast with the minikits.

Before panel lining
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...y/DSC00141.jpg
After
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...y/DSC00144.jpg

I need some advice on using sandpaper. Is there a special technique to do it? Haven't been building gunpla kits in a long, long, while, and recently I tried using sandpaper to remove nub marks off some of my old gunpla kits. In the past I used a file and it worked great for me, but many seem to be using sandpaper so I figured I'd give it a try. But when I use sandpaper, the area around the nub gets all scratched up as well, something I didn't have a problem with using a file. (Or rather, the file covered up the area around the nub better, and doesn't leave ugly scratch marks.) Help, anyone?