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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Fafnir 2007-01-01 15:14

Mangatron, I disagree with making a PG Freedom. So many other MS deserve it more.

Besides, everyone knows that Strike>Freedom, but never Strike+Freedom

Tak 2007-01-01 15:20

Funny, I'd want a PG Freedom. I thought the Freedom was one of the most beautiful Gundam ever created.

However, before some of you take it too far, I only like it on the basis that they do NOT use the default color scheme. Only when heavily modified with the magical spell that is model paint, can a Freedom truly stand out. :p

- Tak

Critias 2007-01-01 15:39

OK i'm sure this has been asked, but...

regarding airbrushes....do you guys use em for paint your models? If so, what's a good airbrush to get?

SHOULD I even get one? I've been handbrushing or using gundam markers so far, but I think I should step it up a notch.

DarkWarrior 2007-01-01 15:40

Mr. Hobby Topcoat is the only brand that I know of. There may be more, but my local hobby shop sells only that.

The only problem is the price.. but I guess that's part of the hobby. I recently did some calculations on how much I was spending on these supplies (like putty, paint, sandpaper, topcoat, brushes, cement, masking tape and etc) and found out that I was spending far, far more than the actual models themselves. Gotta start cutting back on the expenses.. :heh:

lycantivis 2007-01-01 16:22

yea when I was looking for a way to pain my models when I started a few weeks ago I looked at spray kits and paints and I was looking at like 120-160 american at least so I went with 14 dollar gundam markers and Im quiet pleased with my decision. They were inexspencive and work quiet nicely.

theOtherGuy 2007-01-01 19:32

But honestly...doesn't the high quality come from airbrushing?

Critias 2007-01-01 20:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by theOtherGuy (Post 786177)
But honestly...doesn't the high quality come from airbrushing?

which is why I need to know this info. Could I buy an inexpensive airbrush kit or should I go all out?

subaruhess 2007-01-01 21:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Critias (Post 786219)
which is why I need to know this info. Could I buy an inexpensive airbrush kit or should I go all out?

Come on, nobody is going to tell you what you should buy. You need to do some research on your own, find out what is available in your country and where it is distributed. You can do this online quite easily, and you'll find exactly what suits you. Dont make the mistake of thinking airbrushing will improve your skill. Most airbrushing techniques come with experience, but there are plenty of good guides for helping those who are new as such fichtenfoo.

aikming 2007-01-01 23:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tak (Post 786005)
Funny, I'd want a PG Freedom. I thought the Freedom was one of the most beautiful Gundam ever created.
- Tak

Same here. Love Freedom

Derringer 2007-01-02 00:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by theOtherGuy (Post 786177)
But honestly...doesn't the high quality come from airbrushing?

That's a myth. Airbrushing makes the process a lot faster, but doesn't neccessarily lead to high quality if you do a rush job.

Case in point, this person handpainted the Gold Frame Amatu

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/sho...d.php?tid=1208

WaytoDawn 2007-01-02 04:40

Now i am seriously pissed!!!:frustrated: I already booked the SF FB AND paid the deposit at XL toys and when i got there, That bloody @****** said it is all sold out!!:frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated: I feel like choking the guy....grr..:mad:

sry, i just had to relive some anger.

kct 2007-01-02 04:59

This happens all the time...and I'm worried about the Zeta 2.0 nearby...

Fafnir 2007-01-02 14:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by WaytoDawn (Post 786575)
Now i am seriously pissed!!!:frustrated: I already booked the SF FB AND paid the deposit at XL toys and when i got there, That bloody @****** said it is all sold out!!:frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated: I feel like choking the guy....grr..:mad:

sry, i just had to relive some anger.

Take it out on innocent civilians.

SNT1 2007-01-02 14:54

Its a ripoff anyways...

Meehlimo 2007-01-02 17:08

yea cancel it and get the stock one.

lycantivis 2007-01-02 17:17

Whats up with the conversion kits I keep seeing on ebay? I understand they are resin no paint so you can custom paint but usually I see little or no difference between the plastic and resin piece. Is there a reason to use resin pieces over plastic pieces like say the paint holds better or something Im not seeing?

mangatron 2007-01-02 18:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fafnir (Post 786001)
Mangatron, I disagree with making a PG Freedom. So many other MS deserve it more.

Yeah, I know. But perhaps you should note my comment is in relation to the fact that I was noting on correcting the inconsistencies in the MG model....

Because.....if a MG Destiny Gundam isn't in the works it wouldn't be so bad to PG it, since it was a main MS in a series....:heh:

But I don't really think too much into whatever PG is next, any of them is fine to me...

Gyah! Only 1 "heh" emote lol

Derringer 2007-01-02 19:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 787170)
Whats up with the conversion kits I keep seeing on ebay? I understand they are resin no paint so you can custom paint but usually I see little or no difference between the plastic and resin piece. Is there a reason to use resin pieces over plastic pieces like say the paint holds better or something Im not seeing?


Resin holds details better than the injection plastic that Bandai's kits come in. That's why most of the figurine models for anime in general are also made of Resin and cost a bundle.

wavehawk 2007-01-03 01:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tak (Post 786005)
FunnyOnly when heavily modified with the magical spell that is model paint, can a Freedom truly stand out. :p

- Preach it, Tak.;)

Spray/Airbrushing is ideal for doing lots of area at one time. They key is not overdoing it. Not too close; 1 foot away from the part you're spraying is ideal. Some better-tuned Airbrushes can do a lot more than just area painting; some camouflage colors and effects can be done with Airbrushes in ways handbrushing can't ('strippling', for example, looks better when using Airbrushes than hand brushing). But it takes time and experience to learn. Likewise, there are some things an airbrush still cannot do--like panel lines.

As to Conversion kits: yes, the Resin kit conversions have better detail, and a lot of them are top-quality. But (Murphy's Law of Gunpla), they cost 3-6 times more than the kit you're buying them for. If you really want a competition-quality kit (or a conversion for one that doesn't exist, such as an MG GM Cannon) and have the money for it, go ahead, but IMHO, it's too much to pay for. B-Club in particular sells 'em at horrific prices.

Also remember that Resin is a bit tougher than the PolyStyrene plastic that the GunPla kits are made of, and the usual Polystyrene cement (Tamiya Cement, for example) will not work. You have to use a different kind of cement--or barring that, use Super Glue. I learned this the hard way, trying to put a Resincast 1/48 scale LAU Rocket Launcher to a 1/144 Cgue I was customizing.

Oh, about buying spray paints: You also have to check if the paint will work properly with your kit. I've been warned that Tamiya's PolyCarb sprays will melt some Bandai models--never tried it myself, but it's worth checking first.

WaytoDawn 2007-01-03 03:06

Well, i am pretty aware that i am being ripped off by buying the SF FB but somehow the decals that are gold in colour attract me more. AND the second pair of hands which i require. so....if they can't find 1 in stock i'll just settle for the normal 1 then. But i'll try to squeze a discount out of these people because they forgot my package.;)

Meehlimo 2007-01-03 05:26

The hands u want u get the fingers and palm and thumb u dont get an extra wrist ball or top cover to keep the fingers on

lycantivis 2007-01-03 15:21

Any input on the hy2m heads? Do they turn out any good? Or they a waste of time and money?

mangatron 2007-01-03 18:11

You can see them here: http://www.dalong.net/review/hy2m/hyh01/hyh01.htm

They use a magnet to turn on, which.....is a bit odd to me lol. And they look different than their MG counterparts, and some are chrome plated I think. Visit Dalong's site to see for yourself if they are good or not :)

lycantivis 2007-01-03 18:35

Oh ok cause I have seen some resin kit ones that look amazing but they were bigger like 1/72 or 1/48 any one done ones other than the group1 cause thats all dalong has on his site. Cause I like the group 5 zz heads on the models just wondering if these heads come out good. Cause I probly have something wrong with me but for some reason since I have started working MG models every time I look at a lower grade and it just looks like trash and not worth doing. It really pains me when I look at models like the no grade destiny, Ijustice, gold frame amatsu, oowashi aksutsuki, blue frame astray 2nd L. To see such amazing looking models with such bad detail compaired to that of mastergrades. That make me to elitest? Are there others who think the same or should I just smack my self and get them?

GameraBaenre 2007-01-03 18:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 787509)
As to Conversion kits: yes, the Resin kit conversions have better detail, and a lot of them are top-quality. But (Murphy's Law of Gunpla), they cost 3-6 times more than the kit you're buying them for. If you really want a competition-quality kit (or a conversion for one that doesn't exist, such as an MG GM Cannon) and have the money for it, go ahead, but IMHO, it's too much to pay for. B-Club in particular sells 'em at horrific prices.

That why there are other companies out there such as CoreWorks, AkoHobby etc that sell conversion kits. Ako also has some IP plastic conversion kits that are very nicely priced.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 787509)
Also remember that Resin is a bit tougher than the PolyStyrene plastic that the GunPla kits are made of

Not true. Resin is a much softer plastic than the typical bandai styrene plastic. It's much easier to carve and sand in comparison to typical Injection Plastics.

As for gluing resin kits. Most resin kits should be pinned in conjunction to gluing. Insert a metal rod (paper clip size) and use either an epoxy type glue or CA glue (super glue) I would recommend using epoxy style glue over CA/super glue because CA type glues are a little on the brittle side and does not have the strength against weight stress. Since resin kits are usually solid and not thin hollow pieces like the typical bandai plastic kits, they weigh considerably more - another reason to use an epoxy style glue. Since the epoxy glues, are not brittle once they dry.

Polystyrene cements are formulated for polystyrene, so they obviously will not work on resin, great for melting plastic kits together tho.

jbui 2007-01-03 19:02

Shoud I top coat the whole model put together in one shot, or part by part?

GameraBaenre 2007-01-03 19:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbui (Post 788244)
Shoud I top coat the whole model put together in one shot, or part by part?

Neither... do it section by section. For example: Head, chest, upper legs, lower legs, feet, upper arms, lower arms, etc.

Reason for this is you get the parts assembled and painted (if you paint) then get a well rounded spray on the overall sections such that when you repose them, you don't end up with an area where the spray didn't get to and have a discolored look.

If you are spraying topcoat with an airbrush, then it doesn't matter so much since with an airbrush you can get some pin point accuracy with the top coat.

Regardless, it's just much easier to spray section by section. It's not as tedious as spraying part by part, and not as cumbersome as spraying the kit as a whole. Of course, if you meant part by part as what I meant by section by section... just dismiss my inane ramblings :)

AnimePaul 2007-01-03 23:20

I'm thinking of buying MG 1/100 Wing Zero Custom, Wing Gundam Ver. Ka and Freedom Gundam from Hobby Link Japan, but I want to first ask how is the shipping to those who have bought model kits from Hobby Link. How long did it take? How was the condition of the package when it arrived? Did you have any problems? It also seems Wing Gundam Ver. Ka doesn't have a stand included so I would have to buy one separately?

DarkWarrior 2007-01-03 23:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 788287)
Regardless, it's just much easier to spray section by section. It's not as tedious as spraying part by part, and not as cumbersome as spraying the kit as a whole. Of course, if you meant part by part as what I meant by section by section... just dismiss my inane ramblings :)

Also, if you paint all the individual parts separately you can't exactly take care of the seam lines. The newer MGs are pretty good about seam lines, but they're still there in practically every kit.

jbui 2007-01-04 03:44

Thanks for the advice!

Noppapana 2007-01-04 14:09

about the HGUC Gaplant TR5
what are the opinions about this kit ?
i find it looks fabulous
but then again its kinda expensive one
it costs even more then the normal gaplant

cuz i am in kinda dilemma, should i go for a Hazel or a Gaplant or a MG God ?

lycantivis 2007-01-04 17:19

Where do you guys find out information about upcoming models? Like I know the crossbone full cloth is set to release this month but do any of you know a exact release date?

Noppapana 2007-01-04 17:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 789167)
Where do you guys find out information about upcoming models? Like I know the crossbone full cloth is set to release this month but do any of you know a exact release date?

http://www.amiami.com/shop/ProductInfo/product_id/66147
from gunota
but i am not sure when its released

DarkWarrior 2007-01-04 18:29

Bandai usually posts the exact release dates for their merchandise on their hobby site. However they haven't posted anything for January yet, so we'll just have to wait until then.

lazyfr3ak 2007-01-04 20:37

hey guys i would like to know if the TAMIYA GOLD SPRAY CAN would be a good gold color to put on those non-gold plated parts of SF.

wavehawk 2007-01-04 23:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre
Not true. Resin is a much softer plastic than the typical bandai styrene plastic. It's much easier to carve and sand in comparison to typical Injection Plastics.

- Hmmm...so either the guy who sold them (the 'resin' Launchers) to me was incorrect, or I've got to buy myself a much tougher hobby knife. Mine broke while I was trying to shave off some tough bits where the launcher was attached to a sprue-like nib. Again, this was not a Gunpla part; it was something I bought from a hobby shop for a 1/48 helicopter, which I modded for a 1/144 Cgue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkWarrior
Also, if you paint all the individual parts separately you can't exactly take care of the seam lines. The newer MGs are pretty good about seam lines, but they're still there in practically every kit.

- There's two ways around that, both require a bit of work:
1.) If you're an ace modeller, you could cement some of the parts before assembly and re-model the part to fit after assembly--this is what some of the guys at Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby do. They actually re-cut the parts sometimes so that the original seam line is cemented and sanded out, while the 'cut' area is either unseen or falls on an existing 'detail' line. This takes a lot of skill, IMHO, since you could easily foul up and end up cutting too much of a part, or making too large of a gap.

2.) A second method is to sand or putty the seam line after assembly, then paint it afterwards. But that depends on how the part is put together, and how good you are at minute details. This is what I usually do, but I'm not all that good with this (my F90 A/D/S, for example, has some bits of messiness I really need to work on). If you're good with an airbrush, that might make things easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noppapana
about the HGUC Gaplant TR5
what are the opinions about this kit ?

- I don't have it (TR-5 "Hrairoo"), but my friends seem to think it's okay--if you're a fan of Advance of Zeta.

Basically, it's just a recolor of the older HGUC Gaplant, with a different head and new weapons (Long Blade Rifle, and "Hrududu 2" Claw units), and it doesn't have the Booster. It costs a bit more because there are more moving parts in the TR-5 are a bit more complex than the old Gaplant Booster. But the posability and detail are pretty much like the old Gaplant, so if you're expecting something as posable as the Hazel Custom/Advanced Hazel, you might be dissapointed.

Also, since this is a recolor of the old Gaplant, that means there are no clear Beam Saber blades for this--you'll have to paint the saber or use one from the other MS kits.

X0Anime0X 2007-01-05 00:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazyfr3ak (Post 789387)
hey guys i would like to know if the TAMIYA GOLD SPRAY CAN would be a good gold color to put on those non-gold plated parts of SF.

That's probably the best way if you're not into airbrushing and stuff. Just spray the parts while they're on the runner.

SNT1 2007-01-05 01:20

^not a good idea.

Stubs/cut marks will be blatantly visible when the part is cut off from the runner.

GameraBaenre 2007-01-05 03:08

Quote:

- Hmmm...so either the guy who sold them (the 'resin' Launchers) to me was incorrect, or I've got to buy myself a much tougher hobby knife. Mine broke while I was trying to shave off some tough bits where the launcher was attached to a sprue-like nib. Again, this was not a Gunpla part; it was something I bought from a hobby shop for a 1/48 helicopter, which I modded for a 1/144 Cgue.
So is your only experience with resin this one particular kit? My comment comes from my experience with working on 20+ resin kits. All the resins I've worked with are much softer than bandai plastic. Now if you were trying to remove the pour tabs from the resin, the hobby knife is the wrong tool. A pair of nippers is best.

It could be that the resin you had was poor quality resin. But if you are making a blanket statement that resin is much harder than ip plastic, based on one kit - I would suggest you try a few more resin kits out.

Mr Chow 2007-01-05 03:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 788223)
Oh ok cause I have seen some resin kit ones that look amazing but they were bigger like 1/72 or 1/48 any one done ones other than the group1 cause thats all dalong has on his site. Cause I like the group 5 zz heads on the models just wondering if these heads come out good. Cause I probly have something wrong with me but for some reason since I have started working MG models every time I look at a lower grade and it just looks like trash and not worth doing. It really pains me when I look at models like the no grade destiny, Ijustice, gold frame amatsu, oowashi aksutsuki, blue frame astray 2nd L. To see such amazing looking models with such bad detail compaired to that of mastergrades. That make me to elitest? Are there others who think the same or should I just smack my self and get them?


Your not! I've been building MG and PG gundams for the past seven months, and found that the detail especially in the PG to be beyond par with the rest. Okay the PG may cost a hellava lot more here in New Zealand (around 330.00!!) and the MG come in around 110.00, from which I personally order from a importer that gets them through Hong Kong. But the detail is something that keeps me coming back for another, and when painted (sprayed is my preference) they look fantastic. So your not elitest in anyway, you just fancy the more finer things in what you spend your cash on.

Cheers and good luck to the future.


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