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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Kelrys 2009-04-25 12:24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exia_00 (Post 2361859)
the Arios HG is a big improvement from kyrios, smoother transformation, better articulation on the legs and the elimination of the standing problem, either way arios comes with a seed hg stand
wow the stand is a plus. My Kyrios needs a stand for display purposes, that thing can't stand.

GrahamAker 2009-04-25 13:01
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakubeX2 (Post 2361765)
Nice try, but not as good as the following :-
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5...3694425pm8.jpg
nice 1:):):)

vektar 2009-04-25 13:24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelrys (Post 2361884)
wow the stand is a plus. My Kyrios needs a stand for display purposes, that thing can't stand.
just get an action base 2 and your good to go.

LoweGear 2009-04-25 17:37
New kit modifications from Hobby Japan (images courtesy of Homeless):

Sir Dearka 2009-04-25 18:25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amber.Dawn (Post 2360322)
Well, I chose:
heads win for Impulse
tails win for Freedom

The results? In eight coin flips, all of them were heads...
It must be a sign for me to buy the Impulse.
You won't be disappointed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Un1ver5e (Post 2360724)
@Sworra - Haha sure, but it'll all probably be static poses unfortunately. :( I broke the joint connecting the backpack to IJ, so I glued it back. It's now permanently stuck in it's 'flying mode'. Might want to ask Sir Dearka. He has a pretty badass one.
A'right, here's my IJ then: ;D



Quote:
Originally Posted by elindir (Post 2361449)
I agree, one of the reasons why I like Dynames is its colour.
Green Mobile suits FTW :)
Speaking of green MSes, just put the decals on my Cherudim. here are the pics:

Un1ver5e 2009-04-25 19:00
Quoted from Ngee Kiong:

Quote:
Robot Damashii Alvaaron CAD Design
It's ... not fake at all O_O
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_dW7jdVzJn8...org2140460.jpg

Like many fans, I was in doubt when a Robot Damashii Alvaaron was rumored with the photo above shown.

Dengeki Japan June issue has some indication to prove otherwise though. ^^

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_dW7jdVzJn8...859f3abb_b.jpg

No information regarding this merchandise at the moment. But I believe there's a good chance for this to come true. Remember the web shop limited Regnant? It was first confirmed with the display of a few CAD designs as well.

Will it come with the MA as well? ^^ Let's wait for more updates on that. ^^

Magazine scan from Toysdaily.
Woah?!

Side note: Damashi Exia has swappable parts to R2: http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_dW7jdVzJn8...4dc173ed_b.jpg

Karidzka 2009-04-25 19:00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amber.Dawn (Post 2360322)
Well, I chose:
heads win for Impulse
tails win for Freedom

The results? In eight coin flips, all of them were heads...
It must be a sign for me to buy the Impulse.
Both of them are a nice kits

but if you like mods , freedom is more challenging

Sworra 2009-04-25 19:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir Dearka (Post 2362305)
Wow Very nice Sir Dearka
I like how you posed it and fighting against Destiny. I seriously can't wait for mine but still somewhere in the mail. Probably in customs. :) One question about IJ's eyes in the middle picture they are blue.. Is that cause of the flash of the camera or paint or LED that you placed in it.. It makes it stand out and looks good.

Thanks

darkstrife 2009-04-25 20:53
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayCee (Post 2361598)
First identify which type of paint it is. So if you're certain it's lacquer. Then find lacquer thinner and dilute a solution with water and let the parts soak in it. Making sure to keep an eye on it every so often as some thinners can harm plastic in larger doses. Though it won't get rid of all the paint using this process the rest left over can be removed by using a toothbrush and brushing away at the pieces. Then it's just a matter of sanding till smooth again and priming to paint.
thanks once again for the advice jaycee, on the tamiya website it says that the spraypaints are 'synthetic lacquer', would it be ok if i brush the thinner onto the parts or would you recommend soaking it (it's only a small piece, its the flaps attached to the waist joint). and is it necessary to prime the piece or can i just spray straight away?

gundam rider 2009-04-25 21:30
Quote:
Originally Posted by MakubeX2 (Post 2361765)
Nice try, but not as good as the following :-
http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/5...3694425pm8.jpg
ummm....., why the 2 versions have different feet colours??:confused:

LightningZERO 2009-04-26 00:44
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoweGear (Post 2362247)
New kit modifications from Hobby Japan (images courtesy of Homeless):
Man, the Ascalon is amazing!!!

Bashfulz 2009-04-26 02:06
yup.. the ascalon is quite cool. im trying to cover up the back of the back-skirt of the arios too with pla-plates, however im not really sure how to do it.

any good guides out there on using pla-plates?

vektar 2009-04-26 02:56
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstrife (Post 2362542)
thanks once again for the advice jaycee, on the tamiya website it says that the spraypaints are 'synthetic lacquer', would it be ok if i brush the thinner onto the parts or would you recommend soaking it (it's only a small piece, its the flaps attached to the waist joint). and is it necessary to prime the piece or can i just spray straight away?
I would soak it first then do your best to get whats ever left on it off. And there is no real need to primer your models unless your gonna use an airbrush, spray paint you can just spray right on the kit. You might not even have to use thinner on the part you want to take the paint off of depending on the primer you use you might just be able to cover it up. Ive never done that before but it might work:confused:


on a 2nd note i just made a prototype light box, which might just end up being the the only one i make...who knows. I think it came out pretty well for my first attempt at it, i used a box i got from work and i have one of them huge rolls of white paper(not sure if you would call it construction paper). The only thing i need now is a stronger light or a few more lights to go on the sides.

I have pretty much all my models on hanging from the ceiling so i had to use my really old first MG kit ever built more then a decade ago Zeta Gundam. Its a bit beat up from being so old but its still good. I just needed to use it as a test piece anyways. So yeah its a bit darker then i was hoping for so im gonna hve to find a stronger light bulb one of these days.

Amber.Dawn 2009-04-26 03:52
In terms of looks, I think the original model of the Zeta is cooler than the 2.0

The 2.0 version looks like it was stretched, making its legs look too long.

elindir 2009-04-26 04:11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Amber.Dawn (Post 2363111)
In terms of looks, I think the original model of the Zeta is cooler than the 2.0

The 2.0 version looks like it was stretched, making its legs look too long.
Man, I love Zeta.

JayCee 2009-04-26 05:20
Quote:
Originally Posted by vektar (Post 2363045)
I would soak it first then do your best to get whats ever left on it off. And there is no real need to primer your models unless your gonna use an airbrush, spray paint you can just spray right on the kit. You might not even have to use thinner on the part you want to take the paint off of depending on the primer you use you might just be able to cover it up. Ive never done that before but it might work:confused:


on a 2nd note i just made a prototype light box, which might just end up being the the only one i make...who knows. I think it came out pretty well for my first attempt at it, i used a box i got from work and i have one of them huge rolls of white paper(not sure if you would call it construction paper). The only thing i need now is a stronger light or a few more lights to go on the sides.

I have pretty much all my models on hanging from the ceiling so i had to use my really old first MG kit ever built more then a decade ago Zeta Gundam. Its a bit beat up from being so old but its still good. I just needed to use it as a test piece anyways. So yeah its a bit darker then i was hoping for so im gonna hve to find a stronger light bulb one of these days.
A little constructive crit

Light box itself is looking good from what I can make out so far. The only thing I have to say is stronger light as you mentioned. But keep in mind to find a lightbulb that has a temperature of around 5600k. Too low and it won't be as white as possible to get the studio photo look. On the contrary too high will give it too much of a cool blue tone.

Also I'd suggest resting your camera on something stationary if you don't have a tripod as I can see one of the pictures is resulting from shaky hands. I'll stop there as I don't wanna go overboard about photography unless requested.

Bashfulz 2009-04-26 07:17
just completed a GN Archer. any idea what marker would be good for the beam rifle parts? as you can see in the picture below, the sticker is already coming off. :(

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1627/dsc00674y.th.jpg

darkstrife 2009-04-26 08:13
Quote:
Originally Posted by vektar (Post 2363045)
I would soak it first then do your best to get whats ever left on it off. And there is no real need to primer your models unless your gonna use an airbrush, spray paint you can just spray right on the kit. You might not even have to use thinner on the part you want to take the paint off of depending on the primer you use you might just be able to cover it up. Ive never done that before but it might work:confused:


on a 2nd note i just made a prototype light box, which might just end up being the the only one i make...who knows. I think it came out pretty well for my first attempt at it, i used a box i got from work and i have one of them huge rolls of white paper(not sure if you would call it construction paper). The only thing i need now is a stronger light or a few more lights to go on the sides.

I have pretty much all my models on hanging from the ceiling so i had to use my really old first MG kit ever built more then a decade ago Zeta Gundam. Its a bit beat up from being so old but its still good. I just needed to use it as a test piece anyways. So yeah its a bit darker then i was hoping for so im gonna hve to find a stronger light bulb one of these days.
thanks for the tip vektar, i just bought the lacquer thinner today and applied onto the part using a brush and it worked wonders!!! now i have finished my MG hi-nu gundam (finally ><). i'll post some pics if i can :)

Kelrys 2009-04-26 09:40
The HG 1/144 Arios I bought just now comes with 2 beam sabers of different lengths:twitch: I scanned throught dalong and I think its normal in every HG Arios. Feels weird though..

Sir Dearka 2009-04-26 09:43
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sworra (Post 2362427)
One question about IJ's eyes in the middle picture they are blue.. Is that cause of the flash of the camera or paint or LED that you placed in it.. It makes it stand out and looks good.
Sadly, it is just the reflection of light. Still, the kit is awesome. Here's another pic for you:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...l/DSCF7400.jpg

Happy assembling! :)

Just made some fresh pics of my 1/100 Cherudim and HG Trans-Am Dynames:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...l/DSCF7385.jpg




Other pics:


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