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-   -   Gundam Models Discussion Thread (http://forums.animesuki.com/showthread.php?t=23320)

Meehlimo 2007-01-03 05:26

The hands u want u get the fingers and palm and thumb u dont get an extra wrist ball or top cover to keep the fingers on

lycantivis 2007-01-03 15:21

Any input on the hy2m heads? Do they turn out any good? Or they a waste of time and money?

mangatron 2007-01-03 18:11

You can see them here: http://www.dalong.net/review/hy2m/hyh01/hyh01.htm

They use a magnet to turn on, which.....is a bit odd to me lol. And they look different than their MG counterparts, and some are chrome plated I think. Visit Dalong's site to see for yourself if they are good or not :)

lycantivis 2007-01-03 18:35

Oh ok cause I have seen some resin kit ones that look amazing but they were bigger like 1/72 or 1/48 any one done ones other than the group1 cause thats all dalong has on his site. Cause I like the group 5 zz heads on the models just wondering if these heads come out good. Cause I probly have something wrong with me but for some reason since I have started working MG models every time I look at a lower grade and it just looks like trash and not worth doing. It really pains me when I look at models like the no grade destiny, Ijustice, gold frame amatsu, oowashi aksutsuki, blue frame astray 2nd L. To see such amazing looking models with such bad detail compaired to that of mastergrades. That make me to elitest? Are there others who think the same or should I just smack my self and get them?

GameraBaenre 2007-01-03 18:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 787509)
As to Conversion kits: yes, the Resin kit conversions have better detail, and a lot of them are top-quality. But (Murphy's Law of Gunpla), they cost 3-6 times more than the kit you're buying them for. If you really want a competition-quality kit (or a conversion for one that doesn't exist, such as an MG GM Cannon) and have the money for it, go ahead, but IMHO, it's too much to pay for. B-Club in particular sells 'em at horrific prices.

That why there are other companies out there such as CoreWorks, AkoHobby etc that sell conversion kits. Ako also has some IP plastic conversion kits that are very nicely priced.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavehawk (Post 787509)
Also remember that Resin is a bit tougher than the PolyStyrene plastic that the GunPla kits are made of

Not true. Resin is a much softer plastic than the typical bandai styrene plastic. It's much easier to carve and sand in comparison to typical Injection Plastics.

As for gluing resin kits. Most resin kits should be pinned in conjunction to gluing. Insert a metal rod (paper clip size) and use either an epoxy type glue or CA glue (super glue) I would recommend using epoxy style glue over CA/super glue because CA type glues are a little on the brittle side and does not have the strength against weight stress. Since resin kits are usually solid and not thin hollow pieces like the typical bandai plastic kits, they weigh considerably more - another reason to use an epoxy style glue. Since the epoxy glues, are not brittle once they dry.

Polystyrene cements are formulated for polystyrene, so they obviously will not work on resin, great for melting plastic kits together tho.

jbui 2007-01-03 19:02

Shoud I top coat the whole model put together in one shot, or part by part?

GameraBaenre 2007-01-03 19:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbui (Post 788244)
Shoud I top coat the whole model put together in one shot, or part by part?

Neither... do it section by section. For example: Head, chest, upper legs, lower legs, feet, upper arms, lower arms, etc.

Reason for this is you get the parts assembled and painted (if you paint) then get a well rounded spray on the overall sections such that when you repose them, you don't end up with an area where the spray didn't get to and have a discolored look.

If you are spraying topcoat with an airbrush, then it doesn't matter so much since with an airbrush you can get some pin point accuracy with the top coat.

Regardless, it's just much easier to spray section by section. It's not as tedious as spraying part by part, and not as cumbersome as spraying the kit as a whole. Of course, if you meant part by part as what I meant by section by section... just dismiss my inane ramblings :)

AnimePaul 2007-01-03 23:20

I'm thinking of buying MG 1/100 Wing Zero Custom, Wing Gundam Ver. Ka and Freedom Gundam from Hobby Link Japan, but I want to first ask how is the shipping to those who have bought model kits from Hobby Link. How long did it take? How was the condition of the package when it arrived? Did you have any problems? It also seems Wing Gundam Ver. Ka doesn't have a stand included so I would have to buy one separately?

DarkWarrior 2007-01-03 23:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre (Post 788287)
Regardless, it's just much easier to spray section by section. It's not as tedious as spraying part by part, and not as cumbersome as spraying the kit as a whole. Of course, if you meant part by part as what I meant by section by section... just dismiss my inane ramblings :)

Also, if you paint all the individual parts separately you can't exactly take care of the seam lines. The newer MGs are pretty good about seam lines, but they're still there in practically every kit.

jbui 2007-01-04 03:44

Thanks for the advice!

Noppapana 2007-01-04 14:09

about the HGUC Gaplant TR5
what are the opinions about this kit ?
i find it looks fabulous
but then again its kinda expensive one
it costs even more then the normal gaplant

cuz i am in kinda dilemma, should i go for a Hazel or a Gaplant or a MG God ?

lycantivis 2007-01-04 17:19

Where do you guys find out information about upcoming models? Like I know the crossbone full cloth is set to release this month but do any of you know a exact release date?

Noppapana 2007-01-04 17:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 789167)
Where do you guys find out information about upcoming models? Like I know the crossbone full cloth is set to release this month but do any of you know a exact release date?

http://www.amiami.com/shop/ProductInfo/product_id/66147
from gunota
but i am not sure when its released

DarkWarrior 2007-01-04 18:29

Bandai usually posts the exact release dates for their merchandise on their hobby site. However they haven't posted anything for January yet, so we'll just have to wait until then.

lazyfr3ak 2007-01-04 20:37

hey guys i would like to know if the TAMIYA GOLD SPRAY CAN would be a good gold color to put on those non-gold plated parts of SF.

wavehawk 2007-01-04 23:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by GameraBaenre
Not true. Resin is a much softer plastic than the typical bandai styrene plastic. It's much easier to carve and sand in comparison to typical Injection Plastics.

- Hmmm...so either the guy who sold them (the 'resin' Launchers) to me was incorrect, or I've got to buy myself a much tougher hobby knife. Mine broke while I was trying to shave off some tough bits where the launcher was attached to a sprue-like nib. Again, this was not a Gunpla part; it was something I bought from a hobby shop for a 1/48 helicopter, which I modded for a 1/144 Cgue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DarkWarrior
Also, if you paint all the individual parts separately you can't exactly take care of the seam lines. The newer MGs are pretty good about seam lines, but they're still there in practically every kit.

- There's two ways around that, both require a bit of work:
1.) If you're an ace modeller, you could cement some of the parts before assembly and re-model the part to fit after assembly--this is what some of the guys at Hobby Japan and Dengeki Hobby do. They actually re-cut the parts sometimes so that the original seam line is cemented and sanded out, while the 'cut' area is either unseen or falls on an existing 'detail' line. This takes a lot of skill, IMHO, since you could easily foul up and end up cutting too much of a part, or making too large of a gap.

2.) A second method is to sand or putty the seam line after assembly, then paint it afterwards. But that depends on how the part is put together, and how good you are at minute details. This is what I usually do, but I'm not all that good with this (my F90 A/D/S, for example, has some bits of messiness I really need to work on). If you're good with an airbrush, that might make things easier.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noppapana
about the HGUC Gaplant TR5
what are the opinions about this kit ?

- I don't have it (TR-5 "Hrairoo"), but my friends seem to think it's okay--if you're a fan of Advance of Zeta.

Basically, it's just a recolor of the older HGUC Gaplant, with a different head and new weapons (Long Blade Rifle, and "Hrududu 2" Claw units), and it doesn't have the Booster. It costs a bit more because there are more moving parts in the TR-5 are a bit more complex than the old Gaplant Booster. But the posability and detail are pretty much like the old Gaplant, so if you're expecting something as posable as the Hazel Custom/Advanced Hazel, you might be dissapointed.

Also, since this is a recolor of the old Gaplant, that means there are no clear Beam Saber blades for this--you'll have to paint the saber or use one from the other MS kits.

X0Anime0X 2007-01-05 00:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by lazyfr3ak (Post 789387)
hey guys i would like to know if the TAMIYA GOLD SPRAY CAN would be a good gold color to put on those non-gold plated parts of SF.

That's probably the best way if you're not into airbrushing and stuff. Just spray the parts while they're on the runner.

SNT1 2007-01-05 01:20

^not a good idea.

Stubs/cut marks will be blatantly visible when the part is cut off from the runner.

GameraBaenre 2007-01-05 03:08

Quote:

- Hmmm...so either the guy who sold them (the 'resin' Launchers) to me was incorrect, or I've got to buy myself a much tougher hobby knife. Mine broke while I was trying to shave off some tough bits where the launcher was attached to a sprue-like nib. Again, this was not a Gunpla part; it was something I bought from a hobby shop for a 1/48 helicopter, which I modded for a 1/144 Cgue.
So is your only experience with resin this one particular kit? My comment comes from my experience with working on 20+ resin kits. All the resins I've worked with are much softer than bandai plastic. Now if you were trying to remove the pour tabs from the resin, the hobby knife is the wrong tool. A pair of nippers is best.

It could be that the resin you had was poor quality resin. But if you are making a blanket statement that resin is much harder than ip plastic, based on one kit - I would suggest you try a few more resin kits out.

Mr Chow 2007-01-05 03:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by lycantivis (Post 788223)
Oh ok cause I have seen some resin kit ones that look amazing but they were bigger like 1/72 or 1/48 any one done ones other than the group1 cause thats all dalong has on his site. Cause I like the group 5 zz heads on the models just wondering if these heads come out good. Cause I probly have something wrong with me but for some reason since I have started working MG models every time I look at a lower grade and it just looks like trash and not worth doing. It really pains me when I look at models like the no grade destiny, Ijustice, gold frame amatsu, oowashi aksutsuki, blue frame astray 2nd L. To see such amazing looking models with such bad detail compaired to that of mastergrades. That make me to elitest? Are there others who think the same or should I just smack my self and get them?


Your not! I've been building MG and PG gundams for the past seven months, and found that the detail especially in the PG to be beyond par with the rest. Okay the PG may cost a hellava lot more here in New Zealand (around 330.00!!) and the MG come in around 110.00, from which I personally order from a importer that gets them through Hong Kong. But the detail is something that keeps me coming back for another, and when painted (sprayed is my preference) they look fantastic. So your not elitest in anyway, you just fancy the more finer things in what you spend your cash on.

Cheers and good luck to the future.


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